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OMLCNC
30-11-2016, 11:00 AM
Project Scope: To build a CNC Router capable of cutting English Hardwood and Aluminium at speed. (faster than I can machine in Jigs and fixtures) with accuracy and good finish. Capable of using large profile bits,50mm diameter and full depth single parse cuts (Dovetails currently 32mm but would like to do bigger).


The Design: (Fall about laughing if you like but just another thank you to the forum for allowing me to copy from other members, you will recognize who you are).
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Outline: Footprint to be 1200 x 1200mm, Machining area (Red)1150 x 600mm, Machining overhang 100mm (For cutting dovetails as shown, possibly two components at once, am I mad!).
Size determined by space in workshop, I do make larger work but can let it hang outside machine area.

Component Guessing:
Welded Frame 80 x 80mm steel box section, Adjustable Feet
Welded Bed 50 x 50mm steel box section.

X axis:2 x HGR20 Rail x 1200mm, 4 x Hiwin HG20 carriage (on epoxy levelling),
2 x RM1610 Ballscrew x 1150mm (Nut, Bearings etc), 2 x Nema? Motors, 2 x Pulley Set , 2 x Belts.

Y Axis: 2 x HGR20 Rail x 850mm, 4 x Hiwin HG20 carriage, On 2 x 45 x 90mm Aluminium Profile. 1 x RM1610 Ballscrew x 750mm (Nut , Bearings etc), 1 x Nema? Motor, 1 x Pulley Set, 1 x Belt.

Z Axis: 2 x HGR20 Rail x 400mm, 4 x Hiwin HG20 carriage, On 20mm Aluminium Plate. 1 x RM1605 Ballscrew x 350mm (Nut Bearing etc), 1 x Nema? Motor, 1 x Pulley Set, 1 x Belt.

All other components from 20mm Aluminium Plate.

Spindle – has to be ER20, water cooled, 3Kw?

Review: Suggestions and feedback welcome on design.

Issues to be resolved:
1. Do I want an adjustable bed ? - Pros and cons?
2. Overhang at end of machine? - Right, Wrong, Better suggestions?
3. Motors, what size?
4. Can I put off doing electrics/computer side of thing until I have finalised design?

I will not be purchasing anything until final design completed and every component drawn, nuts bolts etc and simulated assembly carried out. To make sure it can be built.

Clive S
30-11-2016, 01:45 PM
Issues to be resolved:
1. Do I want an adjustable bed ? - Pros and cons?
2. Overhang at end of machine? - Right, Wrong, Better suggestions?
3. Motors, what size?
4. Can I put off doing electrics/computer side of thing until I have finalised design?

Looks like you have done your homwork:tears_of_joy:
1) My machine is quite similar to yours with an adjustable bed. But I have never had any occasion to alter it, I you do alter it you have to get it level again and resurface.

2)That to me seems OK.

3) Nema 23 all round with low inductance and decent drives (AM882 or EM806) are good BUT think about moving them to the back of the machine and (if I had my time again) change the X to 1 x nema 34 and use long belt for the two screws. This give you a better choice of motion controllers and less problems with homing etc.

4) I would not buy or start any of the electric stuff until the main frame is built as things change over time.

Good luck with the build.

OMLCNC
30-11-2016, 02:39 PM
Thanks for the advice and feeback Clive



3) Nema 23 all round with low inductance and decent drives (AM882 or EM806) are good BUT think about moving them to the back of the machine and (if I had my time again) change the X to 1 x nema 34 and use long belt for the two screws. This give you a better choice of motion controllers and less problems with homing etc.


I will have a redesign based on your comments, stick with fix bolted bed that could be movable in the future to cover all options.

Clive S
30-11-2016, 02:42 PM
I have about 4 positions that I can mount my bed in (bolted) But never need to move it. machine 1600 x 1000

Nr1madman
01-12-2016, 07:53 AM
Hello! Your design is very similar to the one I am building. Real nice work!

Have a doubt about the y axis being 45x90 profiles, even if used in L formation I think it might be to flimsy for fast alu cutting? Please correct me if wrong :)

Nr1madman
01-12-2016, 08:07 AM
Also I think you may benifit with more bracing by the x rails and bed.. :)

OMLCNC
01-12-2016, 10:27 AM
Also I think you may benifit with more bracing by the x rails and bed.. :)

I agree, and will add some more, but this morning Sketchup seems to have a mind of its own, I am still learning about it.
Will post revised design.

Your other point about y axis being flimsy, possibly true, but I only want to cut wood at speed. Should I change to steel? Any builds to look at?

Nr1madman
01-12-2016, 10:39 AM
I think you can just upsize the profiles. Usual size for strong L gantry seems to be 2x 80x120 profiles. When I think about it that seems large, maybe I have misunderstood :D

njhussey
02-12-2016, 10:16 AM
Looking good, my only comment is I think you'll regret it not being able to machine 1200 x 600 especially as you're nearly there. My machine can (just) do 1000 x 600 and I wish I could put 1/4 sheets of wood in to machine!

OMLCNC
02-12-2016, 05:53 PM
Looking good, my only comment is I think you'll regret it not being able to machine 1200 x 600 especially as you're nearly there. My machine can (just) do 1000 x 600 and I wish I could put 1/4 sheets of wood in to machine!

Ok Neil, I can get the extra length in the workshop so I will change the design to use 1400mm HGR20 rails. I can see from the forum that some people rattle off a machine in a mouth and some people never get finished. It's a constant loop of reading, learning, redesigning etc, etc, but it only costs time. I'm finding it very useful to do a "Bill of Materials" as I go for costs and to make sure I haven't forgotten anything. I'll post it when I finish that and the next revision design.

Boyan Silyavski
02-12-2016, 06:46 PM
Just the other day i was looking at my Z axis thinking" Good that i invested much time and money there, so no i dont need to move table up and down" ,not that i could lift 300kg table anyway. In other words i prefer very strong Z that could reach down and do the job without need of additional fiddling around.
When i was designing my machine i had the idea of using additional support to lift the material, but as i made it OTT, in fact i do not need anything additional.

So that is my advice.

JAZZCNC
02-12-2016, 10:42 PM
Have a doubt about the y axis being 45x90 profiles, even if used in L formation I think it might be to flimsy for fast alu cutting? Please correct me if wrong :)

Ok Your Wrong.!! . . . . Why would you say such thing without any experience of using this arrangement.?

I can tell you with absolute confidence, mostly because I came up with the design, and have tried and tested on dozens of machines that it easily handles aluminium in this arrangement.

JAZZCNC
02-12-2016, 10:46 PM
Your other point about y axis being flimsy, possibly true, but I only want to cut wood at speed. Should I change to steel? Any builds to look at?

No Not true it works fine and Steel is Completely OTT for your needs and don't let any Mad Man from Spain tell you different. .:thumsup:

JAZZCNC
02-12-2016, 10:58 PM
Looking good, my only comment is I think you'll regret it not being able to machine 1200 x 600 especially as you're nearly there. My machine can (just) do 1000 x 600 and I wish I could put 1/4 sheets of wood in to machine!

Neil is Spot on. The little extra will make all the difference.

HOWEVER there are few things that need to be considered because that little extra length can give issues with Whip.
Use 20mm screws with BK Fixed bearings on each end for stabilty. Use 20mm pitch and apply 2:1 Ratio.
This will half the screw speed while still giving same speed as 10mm pitch. It will also double the torque and reduce the chances of stalled motors which is important when using slaved motors.

Boyan Silyavski
02-12-2016, 11:20 PM
Ok Your Wrong.!! . . . . Why would you say such thing without any experience of using this arrangement.?

I can tell you with absolute confidence, mostly because I came up with the design, and have tried and tested on dozens of machines that it easily handles aluminium in this arrangement.

Before i was thinking exactly the same as Nrmadman, but remember once after your statement in another thread , i sat down and did the numbers looking at profile manufacturers data, and it seems you are right about the strength being enough and comparable with steel gantry.

Nr1madman
03-12-2016, 06:29 AM
Ok Your Wrong.!! . . . . Why would you say such thing without any experience of using this arrangement.?

I can tell you with absolute confidence, mostly because I came up with the design, and have tried and tested on dozens of machines that it easily handles aluminium in this arrangement.

:D
I did retract my statement, a bit at least!

OMLCNC
03-12-2016, 11:57 AM
Thanks everyone for feedback and sugestions.

Latest design, incorperating longer bed so 1200 x 600 cutting area on bed, RM2020 x 1400mm with BK15 fixed bearings each end on X axis with belt pulley arrangement for one motor operation. More bracing added. Stil not decided on fix or movable bed yet.

Lots more to do to design, covers, cables, screws etc. But I have produced a bill of materials which I have started filling in.

I've done a sort of trafic light system so you can see were I'm short of advice and knowledge. I will search the forum for answers, but probably end up posting more questions here.

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Clive S
03-12-2016, 02:38 PM
Re your rails and screws might be a good idea to get a quote from https://aliexpress.com/store/314742 but go through him here :- Fred Lee bstlinear at gmail.com

Also re the screws when ordering quote the F length to be 30mm as the standard it is 25mm That is the bit where the pulley goes on.

JAZZCNC
03-12-2016, 04:17 PM
Before i was thinking exactly the same as Nrmadman, but remember once after your statement in another thread , i sat down and did the numbers looking at profile manufacturers data, and it seems you are right about the strength being enough and comparable with steel gantry.

But that's the difference Boyan.? I Won't and Don't give advise on anything unless I have actual experience and know it works.
People need to realise that at DIY level the calculations mostly don't apply. Yes can't get away from pyhsics etc but most calculations are based on ridgid values and strict rules. They don't account for the DIY affects of muppets like US in working in sheds.

My thoughts on Calculations are don't waste the time,!! Instead invest the time looking for Real world examples and ask the person who made it what would do better.
The best Machines I've seen built have been built using just 3 Goods.?? . . . . . . . Good research, Good attention to detail and Good Old Common Sense.

JoeHarris
04-12-2016, 12:40 AM
On the subject of detail and having just been working on this bit - I would change your gantry end plates a bit. I had almost that exact design at one stage but changed it to an end plate and a separate plate connecting the ballnut to the end plate (see my last post on my thread if your not sure what I mean). Lining everything up can seem easy in sketchup but as Dean says the DIY factor certainly strikes when your in the real world and you will want to be able to adjust things easily when you are trying to align the screw to the rail.


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JoeHarris
04-12-2016, 12:43 AM
Oh and one thing on the costs. I'm not sure what your starting point is regarding kit, but I never factored in all the tools (some of which I had never heard of!!) I would need for the build - they add up! Looks good though - good luck with the build!


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OMLCNC
04-12-2016, 02:54 PM
On the subject of detail and having just been working on this bit - I would change your gantry end plates a bit. I had almost that exact design at one stage but changed it to an end plate and a separate plate connecting the ballnut to the end plate (see my last post on my thread if your not sure what I mean). Lining everything up can seem easy in sketchup but as Dean says the DIY factor certainly strikes when your in the real world and you will want to be able to adjust things easily when you are trying to align the screw to the rail.

I will be doing that then Joe, As all my sketchup learning and practice was done by copying your drawings from your build log on page 15, hence why you recognise the design!
I now realise why you have changed the design, I was begining to ponder the frame building / gantry fitting together problems but see you have the answer.

Many thanks again for the advice.

OMLCNC
04-12-2016, 03:14 PM
Oh and one thing on the costs. I'm not sure what your starting point is regarding kit, but I never factored in all the tools (some of which I had never heard of!!) I would need for the build - they add up! Looks good though - good luck with the build!

I see that from your build log.

Some I have, Metal lathe, Mig & Stick welder, chop saw, bandsaw, pillar drill. Plus all my woodworking machinery. (I wonder if I could put aluminium plate thru a speed sander?).
I haven’t budgeted anything for additional tools, but basically I am lucky and can justify it on the business. I like your ideas on machining aluminium with basic tools and will be having a go myself.

JAZZCNC
04-12-2016, 04:20 PM
Let me just point something out that is easy trap to fall into and one that Joe has made which I hadn't spotted until now.? (Sorry Joe just seen your Video using drill, well done on first movement.:thumsup:)

You need to leave access to the bearing bolts so the gantry can easily be squared to the linear rails. How joe has it now means to square up he'll be putting twisting action on the bearings because can't get to the bearings because of profile.

Better way to do this is to split the job and have separate bearing plate which holds the Ball screw mounts etc and then have another plate which is part of Main gantry which then just sits on and bolts to the bearing plates. This can then be drilled & reamed and pinned when everything is square.

Much easier to setup and take apart if needed. The gantry becomes separate entity which can easily be removed and put back without too much hassle.

I'll repeat my self because can't be stressed enough ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT then some more ADJUSTMENT is key at DIY level to keeping the stress levels low. . . :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:

JoeHarris
04-12-2016, 04:25 PM
Let me just point something out that is easy trap to fall into and one that Joe has made which I hadn't spotted until now.? (Sorry Joe just seen your Video using drill, well done on first movement.:thumsup:)

You need to leave access to the bearing bolts so the gantry can easily be squared to the linear rails. How joe has it now means to square up he'll be putting twisting action on the bearings because can't get to the bearings because of profile.

Better way to do this is to split the job and have separate bearing plate which holds the Ball screw mounts etc and then have another plate which is part of Main gantry which then just sits on and bolts to the bearing plates. This can then be drilled & reamed and pinned when everything is square.

Much easier to setup and take apart if needed. The gantry becomes separate entity which can easily be removed and put back without too much hassle.

I'll repeat my self because can't be stressed enough ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT then some more ADJUSTMENT is key at DIY level to keeping the stress levels low. . . :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:

Bugger.


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JoeHarris
04-12-2016, 08:50 PM
Bugger.


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You way is better Dean but I have thought about this... the bolts which connect the end plates to the plates on the x rail bearings can be loosened and shimmed... not as easy but hopefully possible!?


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JAZZCNC
04-12-2016, 09:32 PM
You way is better Dean but I have thought about this... the bolts which connect the end plates to the plates on the x rail bearings can be loosened and shimmed... not as easy but hopefully possible!?

In your case then yes Joe about the only thing you can do. But this just highlights another less than ideal situation with this approach.?
The gantry isn't bolted into the bearing plates and completely relying on the end plates to stop twist etc. Also not being securely bolted to the plates leaves gaps which can vibrate and introduce place for resonance.

Adjust is important but equaly so is being securely bolted and secured. Having one doesn't mean can't have the other just requires some careful thought and planning.

JoeHarris
04-12-2016, 10:03 PM
In your case then yes Joe about the only thing you can do. But this just highlights another less than ideal situation with this approach.?
The gantry isn't bolted into the bearing plates and completely relying on the end plates to stop twist etc. Also not being securely bolted to the plates leaves gaps which can vibrate and introduce place for resonance.

Adjust is important but equaly so is being securely bolted and secured. Having one doesn't mean can't have the other just requires some careful thought and planning.

https://vimeo.com/194263383



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JAZZCNC
05-12-2016, 12:30 AM
Joe please don't stress too much over this. My comments where more to help others avoid similair issues and not to pull you down or have you start with major redesign etc.

Now you have it done this way then I'd suck it and see. If the gantry is long way from square then you may need to do some shimming. Anything you can do to make sure Y axis is 90Deg to X axis the better. Try to avoid using the screws to square the gantry as it will put binding on the bearings etc.

JoeHarris
05-12-2016, 08:03 AM
Joe please don't stress too much over this. My comments where more to help others avoid similair issues and not to pull you down or have you start with major redesign etc.

Now you have it done this way then I'd suck it and see. If the gantry is long way from square then you may need to do some shimming. Anything you can do to make sure Y axis is 90Deg to X axis the better. Try to avoid using the screws to square the gantry as it will put binding on the bearings etc.

Thanks Dean, I figured I would suck it and see just wanted to talk though the options if needed...


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OMLCNC
06-12-2016, 09:13 PM
Let me just point something out that is easy trap to fall into and one that Joe has made which I hadn't spotted until now.? (Sorry Joe just seen your Video using drill, well done on first movement.:thumsup:)

You need to leave access to the bearing bolts so the gantry can easily be squared to the linear rails. How joe has it now means to square up he'll be putting twisting action on the bearings because can't get to the bearings because of profile.

Better way to do this is to split the job and have separate bearing plate which holds the Ball screw mounts etc and then have another plate which is part of Main gantry which then just sits on and bolts to the bearing plates. This can then be drilled & reamed and pinned when everything is square.

Much easier to setup and take apart if needed. The gantry becomes separate entity which can easily be removed and put back without too much hassle.

I'll repeat my self because can't be stressed enough ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT, ADJUSTMENT then some more ADJUSTMENT is key at DIY level to keeping the stress levels low. . . :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:

19834

So is this what you propose, (Two plates marked in green) to be drilled with oversize holes and the bearing plate to be tapped to accept bolts, when finished adjusting, drill, ream and pin together?

Other green items added are the table adjustment brackets.

JAZZCNC
06-12-2016, 09:32 PM
So is this what you propose, (Two plates marked in green) to be drilled with oversize holes and the bearing plate to be tapped to accept bolts, when finished adjusting, drill, ream and pin together?

Other green items added are the table adjustment brackets.

Yes make the plate just little longer than needed so can get some bolts on back side. This is Cad of machine just built using the same setup not got any pics of real thing but can take some tomorrow if you want to see it.
This is R&P machine and the Gantry needs to able to be removed for access to building but wanted to leave the Motors etc in place so minimal setup when replacing.

19836 19840

Edit: Found this on my phone if zoom in can see the plates.

19841

OMLCNC
09-12-2016, 12:35 AM
Some progress to report. I have ordered the Rails and carriages, ball screws and bearings for the XYZ Axis from BST Automation. They say 7 Days to deliver - that's a bit frightening!

I have ordered the steel for the frame, all cut to size. (I have trouble getting 7.5 meter lengths down my lane, it has a sharp bend on it and hostile neighbours).

I think I'm ready to order some 20mm aluminium tooling plate which I think I will have cut to size. (extra £20) I have large bandsaw and TCT saw and cut off saw but I think first time I'll get them to do it. (They say +/- 0.2mm accuracy).

The next thing I'm onto and have read lots but would like advice on is the Stepper motors, drivers, motion controller and all the electrical parts I require for my build.

I will start with my guesses and advice so far on what is required.

X Axis - Nema34 8.7Nm High torque Stepper Motor 1.8 Deg. (Driving 2 x RM2020 Ball screws by 2:1 pulley)
Y Axis - Nema23 4Nm Stepper Motor (Driving RM1605 Ballscrew by 2:1 pulley)
Z Axis - Nema23 4Nm Stepper Motor (Driving RM1605 Ballscrew by 1:1 pulley)

3 x Stepper Drives (Leadshine 2-phase High-precision stepper drive AM882 fit NEMA 23-34 mode motor work 36-80VDC out 1.0A-8.2A) (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Leadshine-2-phase-High-precision-stepper-drive-AM882-fit-NEMA-23-34size-motor-work-36/783794956.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.1.6rHMjO&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_116_1006 5_117_10068_114_115_113_10)

1 x Motion Controler (CSMIO/IP-M 4-axis Ethernet Motion Controller (STEP/DIR) )http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/electrical-products/cnc-motion-controllers-18/motion-controllers-from-cs-labs/csmio-ip-m-4-axis-ethernet-motion-controller-step-dir.html

19933 From this diagram I reckon I need some other things:

1 x 24V DC Power Supply?
1 x 80V DC Power Supply?
1 (or more) x Estops?
6? x Limit switches/Sensors http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LJ12A3-4-Z-BX-Inductive-Proximity-Sensor-Switch-NPN-DC-6V-36V-NEW-/191736625652?hash=item2ca464b9f4:g:UFkAAOSwvt1WQ~S R&clk_rvr_id=1136445380051&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true
Some fuses?
Some relays?
2 x Fans?
1 x Enclosure to put it all in?

You can see I'm getting out of my depth on the old Electrical front (Black Magic)
So over to you chaps. Thanks

Clive S
09-12-2016, 10:30 AM
1 x 24V DC Power Supply?
1 x 80V DC Power Supply?
1 (or more) x Estops?
6? x Limit switches/Sensors http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LJ12A3-4-Z...c=1&rmvSB=true

You will be fine with the 24VDC Din rail. PS.
But not for the 80V one, that would be best with a toroidal type that is putting out about 68V DC

Re the sensors you can use the switches as travelling ie they move with the gantry etc and have fixed taargets at each end that way you will only need three. Also check if you need NPN or PNP type for the controller you are using.

Neale
09-12-2016, 10:41 AM
With the CSMIO-IP/M, I suggest NPN N/C proximity sensors. I'm in the middle of setting up these on my own machine, and they seem to work well. I've actually chosen to use two sensors per axis as it fits my design more easily, and these sensors work OK if you need to connect two on the same axis to the same IP/M input (although the IP/M does have plenty of inputs). Putting X, Y, and Z limit/home switches as one axis per input gives you the minor benefit of being able to home more than one axis simultaneously, although typically you would home Z first to raise it out of the way, and then home X and Y together.

MikeyC38
09-12-2016, 01:17 PM
Oh and one thing on the costs. I'm not sure what your starting point is regarding kit, but I never factored in all the tools (some of which I had never heard of!!) I would need for the build - they add up! Looks good though - good luck with the build!


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So true! JoeHarris I dread to think what I've spent on tools. I have kept the receipts for everything so one day I will total the costs. For example, just bought one of the Pro-Tram units to tram the spindle on my machine. 90 quids worth but it does make it easy!

Top tip for tapping threads in Ali extrusion - use a spiral tap in an electric hand drill. Saves a LOT of time!

Regards
Mike

JAZZCNC
09-12-2016, 09:06 PM
Clive is correct that you want toroidal transformer around 70Vdc but don't go buying one as they are expensive and often don't have the required current so need two.
We or I can talk you thru specing and building one easy enough. They are simple things to build and don't require degree in electronics.

Re: HOMES/LIMITS. The IP-M will happily work with either NPN or PNP. However if sharing Home and Limit each axis must be on it's own INPUT. This doesn't matter if one SW Traveling or one fixed at each end.
Whether to use traveling SW or FIxed is matter or preference. My preference is traveling because it's simpler requires less SW Less Wires with Less chance of interference from noise etc.

To add to your list is 24Vdc Contactor. This is for switching the Toroidal transformer on. Contactors handle the Inrush current much better than Relay.
You will however still need relay for Reset/E-stop Latching safety system. This relay will do several things one of which is turning on the 24Vdc Contactor.

You will also require Momentery Push button for the latching Reset system. Also suggest Green LED to show Control is Reset and drives ON.
Also 240V Mains ON/OFF Switch and again RED Led. Optional is EMI filter but for sake of £8-10 worth fitting one. Also put separate one on the VFD if using Spindle with VFD.

Neale
09-12-2016, 11:28 PM
However if sharing Home and Limit each axis must be on it's own INPUT.

Dean - is this one of those "Everyone knows that..." kinds of things? I don't remember seeing mention of this in the IP/M manual (might have missed it) but it strikes me that there are a number of things about the IP/M that aren't really explained properly. I think what it comes down to is that a bunch of useful things are delegated by Mach3 via the plugin to the external controller, but it's never really explained just what is handed over. Like fine details related to master-slave homing, for instance. I'm grateful to know that this is the case or I might have gone down the wrong route, although as it happens I am using separate inputs per axis anyway. I'm also wondering about things like touchplate tool height operation - I know that the IP/M has its own dedicated macro, but does that also mean that it doesn't support things like Gerry's 2010 screenset touchplate functions?

njhussey
10-12-2016, 12:10 AM
Dean - is this one of those "Everyone knows that..." kinds of things? I don't remember seeing mention of this in the IP/M manual (might have missed it) but it strikes me that there are a number of things about the IP/M that aren't really explained properly. I think what it comes down to is that a bunch of useful things are delegated by Mach3 via the plugin to the external controller, but it's never really explained just what is handed over. Like fine details related to master-slave homing, for instance. I'm grateful to know that this is the case or I might have gone down the wrong route, although as it happens I am using separate inputs per axis anyway. I'm also wondering about things like touchplate tool height operation - I know that the IP/M has its own dedicated macro, but does that also mean that it doesn't support things like Gerry's 2010 screenset touchplate functions?

I've an IP-M and use Gerry's 2010 screenset, it does support it however you have to be careful which version of Mach3 you use I believe. I'm using too new a version for the screenset to work properly, it throwsworks a wobbly after trying to change the tool and doesn't switch the spindle back on so will plough the tool into the work ruining the work and usually snapping the tool if you're not quick enough to hit e-stop. When the machine's not busy I'll roll back mu version of Mach to one that works.....

JAZZCNC
10-12-2016, 01:21 AM
Don't now how well known Neil but your correct it's not documented in the manual and yes there are several of other useful additions which by the nature of External controllers have to be taken over by the Controllers plug-in.
This is true for other controllers like the ESS etc and most just take over the dutys but still do it way Mach3 does which is often less than ideal and lazyness on there part.

Cslabs on the other hand have opted to improve on some of these or correct things that Artsoft won't. Improvements Like Soft limits not allowing Jogging until machine is homed etc. Advanced Homing with Index to Pulse for Servos and Geometry correction when using slaved motors on higher end controller. Things like Backing off sw set amount etc.

There are other unknown features as well like being able to talk thru Modbus directly to the controller and by pass Mach3 which allows for much faster response times.
Now when you say it has it's own dedicated Macro's this is basicly what it's doing. It's replacing some of the I/O commands that are normally used and replacing with Modbus commands that talk directly to the controller so provide faster response. It's basicly cutting out the Middle man "Mach3" that other Motion controllers use or because programmers don't want to do them selfs due to being lazy or rubbish at it. ( Warp9(ESS) are prime examples of this Piss poor Plug-in lazyness)

It can still use the Old ways of doing things but it can also cause some issues. Gerry's screen set being one of them and glad you mentioned that because just reminded me got send Gerry some files and why I'll explain in minute. (Sorry Gerry I'll do it this weekend)

Now to be fair this isn't all down to Cslabs and some(most) of it is Artsoft fault for changing things to fix one fault but at same time breaking 3 other things. This is why it's not good idea to update Mach3 to latest Version if your not having any troubles. Anyone who knows mach3 knows if it's not broken leave well alone because updating can open can of worms.
You'll also find that they are running very Old versions of Mach3.

This is also true for Cslabs. If you contact Cslabs with problem they will tell you to use version 3.043.022. However this version had bug which would cause Mach3 to lockup when using M6 so don't know why they say that.?

The most stable version of Mach3 without doing anything is 3.042.040 and is what I run for long time before using Cslabs controllers.
When I started using them opted to use the latest plug-in at the time which think was 3.043.056 or something and had no issues until I installed Gerry's screen set.
This version didn't like the Probe macros and would throw up Epid faults which basicly means Mach3 is doing something that Cslabs controller doesn't like and considers dangerous. The message it's self is about usefull has fart in space suit but that's what it means.

Anyway to cut long story short I contacted Cslabs and to be honest they weren't overly helpful on this occasion which is unusual for them. But I put this down to fact that to them it was 3rd party screen set so didn't really want to get involved.!! . . . .Bastards I wasn't amused.

So I set about the problem my self and changed Gerry's macros so they worked with the controller. Took me weeks of trial and error and testing with just about every version of mach3 and found that 3.043.045 (which is actually3.043.046) was the most stable and worked with the changes.
Now to be honest I didn't finish fully testing and I don't actually use the Toolchange macros my self, infact don't even use the Simple Z height touch plate anymore.! So haven't given it much time but just recently user of Gerry's screen set had an issue which Gerry contacted me about because knew I'd worked on this.
So I'm going to pull the macros back out and give them good testing and when sure 100% ok if anyone wants them then contact me directly and I'll give them to you.
I won't post them in public on principle that Cslabs can get stuffed and why should make there life easier when wouldn't help me.!!

OMLCNC
10-12-2016, 08:43 AM
You will be fine with the 24VDC Din rail. PS.
But not for the 80V one, that would be best with a toroidal type that is putting out about 68V DC

Re the sensors you can use the switches as travelling ie they move with the gantry etc and have fixed taargets at each end that way you will only need three. Also check if you need NPN or PNP type for the controller you are using.

Thank you Clive, your post I understand, after that Neal's post #35 Whoosh straight over my head - "CSMIO-IP/M, I suggest NPN N/C proximity sensors" for example NPN = Polarity, N/C = Normally Closed, CSMIO - IP/M = ??? Some bits I understand of Neal's post in practical terms. Yep i do get it, its the motion controller, me being thick!

I only say this, not as a criticism of Neal but to demonstrate my level of understanding when it comes to electrics/CNC, (The last time I did CNC lathe work we used paper with holes in it, and you gave programmes on card to a nice lady to run on the main frame, before PC’s were around)

Then #36 Mike's post "Pro-Tram units to tram the spindle" not a clue, well can guess
#37 Dean's post mostly understand, #38,#39,#40 I get the general idea, but too early on my learning curve.

SO I think what I should do is go away and do a wiring diagram and come back with more questions (I'm going to need one anyway to wire it all up). Then find out were to get all the components from.
I will start by looking at Joe Harris wiring diagram (Thank you Joe) as my machine is copied from his.

One other point I am thinking about is that I already use 3phase in the workshop by one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRANSWAVE-Rotary-Converter-7-5hp-5-5kW-Single-to-3-Three-Phase-240v-to-415v-/162311769774?hash=item25ca890eae:g:cR0AAOSwEzxYR~K 4 is it any use for my spindle or am I just being penny pinching on the inverter?:tongue:

Clive S
10-12-2016, 11:38 AM
Ok don't get yourself in a flap its a bit like having to lean a foreign language you pick a few words up but they don't make sense.

Tramming is just adjusting the spindle so that is perpendicular to the bed ie. if it was lopsided and you was making a cut the tool would be leaning over to one side and that would make it cut on one edge more than the other.

You don't need to buy a fancy tool to do that you can do the same job with a DTI (dial indicator) which you will need anyway.
Re the Transwave it is of no practicable use for the spindle you will need a VFD and with that you can vary the spindle speed.

You will need a decent size box about 600 x 600 x 200 ish to fit every thing in. Personally I don't like putting the VFD in the control box .

Hope all this helps but it is better to ask questions rather than buy a load of junk like kits of parts.

OMLCNC
10-12-2016, 12:09 PM
Ok don't get yourself in a flap its a bit like having to lean a foreign language you pick a few words up but they don't make sense.

Tramming is just adjusting the spindle so that is perpendicular to the bed ie. if it was lopsided and you was making a cut the tool would be leaning over to one side and that would make it cut on one edge more than the other.

You don't need to buy a fancy tool to do that you can do the same job with a DTI (dial indicator) which you will need anyway.
Re the Transwave it is of no practicable use for the spindle you will need a VFD and with that you can vary the spindle speed.

You will need a decent size box about 600 x 600 x 200 ish to fit every thing in. Personally I don't like putting the VFD in the control box .

Hope all this helps but it is better to ask questions rather than buy a load of junk like kits of parts.

Yep that helps Clive, I have DTI, can you use an old PC case for box? I think I have seen that done?

Neale
10-12-2016, 12:12 PM
Sorry - didn't mean to confuse but you said CSMIO first! :smile:

Yes, good choice of motion controller. Ignore the few posts talking about Mach3/CSMIO issues as you won't need to deal with these yet and we're not talking about show-stopper problems. NPN, N/C - yes, correct translation. The most important bit is N/C. If all the limit switches are wired with normally-closed switch contacts, then as soon as a switch opens, the machine stops. You might say that normally-open would do the same thing. The big safety-related difference is that if a wire comes loose, a soldered joint fails, you've forgotten to plug in the limit switches - with N/C connections then this looks like a limit switch has tripped and the machine stops/won't start. Bad connection with N/O switches and the first you know of it is when the gantry hits its end-stops and tries to keep going!

I agree that a box of the size that Clive suggests is about right. I used a 600x400x200 and although I could just fit everything in (by bolting lightweight power supplies to the inside of the door, for example) actually wiring the thing gets to be like keyhole surgery. A bit more space would help. I used an old PC case for my first machine, but that used a cheap, small, breakout board (the CSMIO needs rather more space) and I was using just 3 older analogue drivers which are a lot smaller than the newer digital drivers that I am using for Mk2. I was also able to use the PC power supply for 5V and 12V supplies but you are going to need 24V for the CSMIO.

Good luck - looks like you are going down the right path.

Clive S
10-12-2016, 12:17 PM
Yep that helps Clive, I have DTI, can you use an old PC case for box? I think I have seen that done?

You will regret it if you try and fit it in a pc tower. And like Neale I made the mistake of too small a box.

njhussey
10-12-2016, 12:34 PM
My box is 600 square and I wish I'd gone a bit bigger, I can however still put stuff on the door. Advice is get as big a box as you can fit, its much easier to have too much space than not enough, makes wiring easier as not so fiddly plus airflow round components is better too.

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OMLCNC
10-12-2016, 05:17 PM
Sorry - didn't mean to confuse but you said CSMIO first! :smile:

Yes, good choice of motion controller. Ignore the few posts talking about Mach3/CSMIO issues as you won't need to deal with these yet and we're not talking about show-stopper problems. NPN, N/C - yes, correct translation. The most important bit is N/C. If all the limit switches are wired with normally-closed switch contacts, then as soon as a switch opens, the machine stops. You might say that normally-open would do the same thing. The big safety-related difference is that if a wire comes loose, a soldered joint fails, you've forgotten to plug in the limit switches - with N/C connections then this looks like a limit switch has tripped and the machine stops/won't start. Bad connection with N/O switches and the first you know of it is when the gantry hits its end-stops and tries to keep going!

I agree that a box of the size that Clive suggests is about right. I used a 600x400x200 and although I could just fit everything in (by bolting lightweight power supplies to the inside of the door, for example) actually wiring the thing gets to be like keyhole surgery. A bit more space would help. I used an old PC case for my first machine, but that used a cheap, small, breakout board (the CSMIO needs rather more space) and I was using just 3 older analogue drivers which are a lot smaller than the newer digital drivers that I am using for Mk2. I was also able to use the PC power supply for 5V and 12V supplies but you are going to need 24V for the CSMIO.

Good luck - looks like you are going down the right path.

So do we think something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schneider-Electric-NSYS3D6620P-Plain-Door-Metal-Enclosure-600x600x200mm-IP66-/232038143032?hash=item36068d1438:g:3JoAAOSwaB5XowF y will do the job if I leave the VFD outside the box (Or in a different box, would dust be a problem to it?)
Also does it have to be metal? Or will plastic do? Is it preferable to put it on the wall near the machine or underneath the machine. I can do either.

Clive S
10-12-2016, 06:02 PM
So do we think something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schneider-Electric-NSYS3D6620P-Plain-Door-Metal-Enclosure-600x600x200mm-IP66-/232038143032?hash=item36068d1438:g:3JoAAOSwaB5XowF y will do the job if I leave the VFD outside the box (Or in a different box, would dust be a problem to it?)
Also does it have to be metal? Or will plastic do? Is it preferable to put it on the wall near the machine or underneath the machine. I can do either.Yes that would do and it does need to be metal you would also need to put a couple of fans in it as well. You can get 24V fans and run them from the 24v ps or if you have them you could use two 12v fans wired in series.

If you have the space mount it on the wall.

OMLCNC
14-12-2016, 08:26 PM
So while I'm ordering things and waiting for them to turn up, I'm deciding on cap head screws, I have some phosphate (black) from previous jobs and some stainless steel. But reading Neil's build log he used BZP from here https://www.tool-net.co.uk/s-1211/cap-head-metric-bzp.html (Only on page 54 out of the 81 build log - more interesting than TV however)

Any thoughts, I seem to remember that Aluminium reacts with steel, or is it stainless steel over time, like a battery, white corrosion.:confusion:

JoeHarris
14-12-2016, 08:27 PM
So while I'm ordering things and waiting for them to turn up, I'm deciding on cap head screws, I have some phosphate (black) from previous jobs and some stainless steel. But reading Neil's build log he used BZP from here https://www.tool-net.co.uk/s-1211/cap-head-metric-bzp.html (Only on page 54 out of the 81 build log - more interesting than TV however)

Any thoughts, I seem to remember that Aluminium reacts with steel, or is it stainless steel over time, like a battery, white corrosion.:confusion:

BZP is a good choice. Mild steel and stainless react


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OMLCNC
20-12-2016, 07:59 PM
Steel arrived today, all cut to size, so drilling and tapping first, then brackets, then welding.


20060

OMLCNC
21-12-2016, 08:31 PM
Progress today, trial assembly, finding the the workshop floor slopes about 30mm over the length of the machine so good job fitting levelling feet.
Cheeking and marking out the moving bed and brackets. Its going to move down by 100mm amounts. I can not think I would want to move it in lesser amounts than multiples of 100mm, unless you people out there no better? (Z axis should have about 220mm travel.)

Just ordered 1500 screws which sounds a lot but I've worked out I need 340 so far and given that they come in 100's or 200's multiplied by the size and length combinations you end up with 1500. I think I will still need more yet.

2006220063

JoeHarris
21-12-2016, 08:36 PM
I'd give yourself a bit more room against the wall if you can... I have built mine too close as I have maxed out the size of machine for my tiny workshop - it's a pain in the ass not being able to get to all sides!


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JoeHarris
21-12-2016, 08:37 PM
Looking good though - are you planning on including any bracing or haunches?


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OMLCNC
21-12-2016, 09:38 PM
I'd give yourself a bit more room against the wall if you can... I have built mine too close as I have maxed out the size of machine for my tiny workshop - it's a pain in the ass not being able to get to all sides!

Yes Joe, I will be giving it a bit more room, I have more clearing and moving to do to make space, you will see as the build progresses where it will end up. Plus you need room to role the frame over to carry out the welding. I'll be moving it around on a pallet truck as well until it ends up its final position as I expect I will have to take a break from building it, to do some work in the workshop.


Looking good though - are you planning on including any bracing or haunches?


Thanks, yes as per the drawing, today was just a trial clamp it all together and marking out day , its all dismantled again for drilling and tapping and welding ends and feet plates

OMLCNC
22-12-2016, 07:15 PM
Christmas has come early. "Our Man in China" has delivered on the order.
Well done Mr Fred Lee all present and correct.

20072

JAZZCNC
22-12-2016, 09:41 PM
Excellent so should be done for 1st Jan . . .:yahoo:

OMLCNC
22-12-2016, 10:24 PM
:hysterical:
Excellent so should be done for 1st Jan . . .:yahoo:

You don't say what year? Probably by 1st Jan 2018 :beer:

OMLCNC
29-12-2016, 12:33 AM
Bit of a redesign due to cocking up the order for the length of the RM2020 1400mm should have been 1500mm long.
Hope I can still get 1/4 sheet cutting area (1220mm x 610mm)

20120

1Jumper10
29-12-2016, 03:39 PM
Don't now how well known Neil but your correct it's not documented in the manual and yes there are several of other useful additions which by the nature of External controllers have to be taken over by the Controllers plug-in.
This is true for other controllers like the ESS etc and most just take over the dutys but still do it way Mach3 does which is often less than ideal and lazyness on there part.

Cslabs on the other hand have opted to improve on some of these or correct things that Artsoft won't. Improvements Like Soft limits not allowing Jogging until machine is homed etc. Advanced Homing with Index to Pulse for Servos and Geometry correction when using slaved motors on higher end controller. Things like Backing off sw set amount etc.

There are other unknown features as well like being able to talk thru Modbus directly to the controller and by pass Mach3 which allows for much faster response times.
Now when you say it has it's own dedicated Macro's this is basicly what it's doing. It's replacing some of the I/O commands that are normally used and replacing with Modbus commands that talk directly to the controller so provide faster response. It's basicly cutting out the Middle man "Mach3" that other Motion controllers use or because programmers don't want to do them selfs due to being lazy or rubbish at it. ( Warp9(ESS) are prime examples of this Piss poor Plug-in lazyness)

It can still use the Old ways of doing things but it can also cause some issues. Gerry's screen set being one of them and glad you mentioned that because just reminded me got send Gerry some files and why I'll explain in minute. (Sorry Gerry I'll do it this weekend)

Now to be fair this isn't all down to Cslabs and some(most) of it is Artsoft fault for changing things to fix one fault but at same time breaking 3 other things. This is why it's not good idea to update Mach3 to latest Version if your not having any troubles. Anyone who knows mach3 knows if it's not broken leave well alone because updating can open can of worms.
You'll also find that they are running very Old versions of Mach3.

This is also true for Cslabs. If you contact Cslabs with problem they will tell you to use version 3.043.022. However this version had bug which would cause Mach3 to lockup when using M6 so don't know why they say that.?

The most stable version of Mach3 without doing anything is 3.042.040 and is what I run for long time before using Cslabs controllers.
When I started using them opted to use the latest plug-in at the time which think was 3.043.056 or something and had no issues until I installed Gerry's screen set.
This version didn't like the Probe macros and would throw up Epid faults which basicly means Mach3 is doing something that Cslabs controller doesn't like and considers dangerous. The message it's self is about usefull has fart in space suit but that's what it means.

Anyway to cut long story short I contacted Cslabs and to be honest they weren't overly helpful on this occasion which is unusual for them. But I put this down to fact that to them it was 3rd party screen set so didn't really want to get involved.!! . . . .Bastards I wasn't amused.

So I set about the problem my self and changed Gerry's macros so they worked with the controller. Took me weeks of trial and error and testing with just about every version of mach3 and found that 3.043.045 (which is actually3.043.046) was the most stable and worked with the changes.
Now to be honest I didn't finish fully testing and I don't actually use the Toolchange macros my self, infact don't even use the Simple Z height touch plate anymore.! So haven't given it much time but just recently user of Gerry's screen set had an issue which Gerry contacted me about because knew I'd worked on this.
So I'm going to pull the macros back out and give them good testing and when sure 100% ok if anyone wants them then contact me directly and I'll give them to you.
I won't post them in public on principle that Cslabs can get stuffed and why should make there life easier when wouldn't help me.!!

Sounds like like lots of difficulty trying to get a reliable version of MACH 3 or MACH 4 to work. I have never used either so all I really know is what many, many builders have posted about each of them and what I have read online. Both of the machines that I have built used UCCNC from cncDrive. Version 1 did seem a little buggy but that could have been my inexperience. The latest version seems nicely refined and is working quite well. Its fairly inexpensive, less than MACH 3 or 4 I believe. And I think it would be worth a look. Just my opinion...

OMLCNC - nice to see you making progress. I like your design and I have been watching this thread for awhile.

OMLCNC
14-01-2017, 12:25 AM
Some pictures of the frame welded up over Christmas and the aluminium cut parts have arrived.
The movable bed is heavy 5mm thickness 50 x 50mm box section and modifications had to be made around the brackets and the angle bracing as they got in the way of bolts.
I don’t expect I will be using the movable bed which will become a fixed bed, but if I did and built a Mk2 machine I would change the design and have a wind-up bed with threaded
bar each end connected with a toothed belt low down and a crank handle to move the bed up and down with clamps to lock in position. (I expect some one has already done this
and connected a motor to it as well)
I've added some small angle to the bottom rail, this will be to support two pieces of MDF for a base to the machine for storage and vacuum pump, water & pump and probably general junk:shame:

20346203472034820349

JoeHarris
14-01-2017, 12:26 AM
Storming along! Nice one


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OMLCNC
15-01-2017, 09:45 PM
Painted the frame, next the epoxy levelling.2037520376

JoeHarris
15-01-2017, 09:46 PM
Tidy!


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OMLCNC
26-01-2017, 03:05 PM
204932049420495

So just poured the epoxy (West System 105-209) no leaks - so far. MDF frame nail gunned and coated with two coats of sealer so hope it will come away neatly. Then mastic and clamped in place. 40mm wide and 30mm wide bridge, should give thickness of 5mm from 1Kg of 105. My wood drying kiln is on at the moment in the workshop providing some of the heat. It runs at 30 degrees and leaks out into the workshop. The rest of the heat provided by electric radiator and fan heaters. Started pouring at 16 degrees and its going up.

MikeyC38
26-01-2017, 10:30 PM
Looks nice and sturdy! Well done and keep going, but don't scrimp on anything. It is worth it in the end!

OMLCNC
09-02-2017, 09:07 PM
So while waiting for the resin bed to set I have been making up the gantry, z, y and x carriages etc.
Not having very good marking out equipment, (surface plate, vernier height gauge etc) I decided on using a wooden indexing type table on my pillar drill. This is because I can plane wood to accurate thickness. Then you mark the first point and drill, then index around this point using accurately planed pieces of wood, adding or subtracting them. Making sure you get all the swarf out of the way. Sorry if this has already been done by someone on the forum but I’ve not seen it. Thought it might be usefull:cocksure:

2076320764

OMLCNC
16-02-2017, 10:04 PM
So just finished fixing the x rails onto the resin bed, 3 weeks after pouring. Many ways to fix the rails I read on the forum. I went for a straight edge (Probably not) ally 50mm box section. Clamped to side of bed then spaced 30mm to side of rail using lengths of 30mm diameter bar. This positions rail in centre of 80mm box section (30mm + 20mm rail +30mm =80mm) Clamped rail, drilled and taped each hole then moved along a hole at a time. Second rail repeat process and checked and adjusted gantry, to make sure smooth running and no nasty noises. Checked with DTI.
We will see what its like when I cut something in the future. 20826

OMLCNC
10-03-2017, 07:05 PM
210262102721028



So more or less finished massive thanks to Dean for all his help and the Forum for all the information – pictures of anything being great – when your studying the detail.

Some changes to the original design being the 50 x 50 x 200mm ball screw housings because of the
problem of getting at screws on the original RM2020 Housings.

Just drilled and fixed the mdf bed down and surfaced it – its a learning curve, you have to move at
fast speeds and feeds to prevent burning (1500mm/min and 24000 rpm)

Guard for the end belt and cover for the Z axis to fitted, plus a dust shoe to be made or purchased.
Extraction system to be fitted and probably a vacuum plate.

Now to get to grips with Mach3 and do some CAD drawings.
I have a queue of neighbours and friends wanting house signs – I'd rather eat worms than do them, but SHMBO will make me.:uncomfortableness:

JAZZCNC
10-03-2017, 10:06 PM
Looking good Robert and turn up the wick 1500mm/min is still way to slow double that and then some. You've Plenty of Oh-shite buttons so you'll be ok.:smiley_simmons:

MikeyC38
11-03-2017, 01:06 AM
210262102721028



So more or less finished massive thanks to Dean for all his help and the Forum for all the information – pictures of anything being great – when your studying the detail.

Some changes to the original design being the 50 x 50 x 200mm ball screw housings because of the
problem of getting at screws on the original RM2020 Housings.

Just drilled and fixed the mdf bed down and surfaced it – its a learning curve, you have to move at
fast speeds and feeds to prevent burning (1500mm/min and 24000 rpm)

Guard for the end belt and cover for the Z axis to fitted, plus a dust shoe to be made or purchased.
Extraction system to be fitted and probably a vacuum plate.

Now to get to grips with Mach3 and do some CAD drawings.
I have a queue of neighbours and friends wanting house signs – I'd rather eat worms than do them, but SHMBO will make me.:uncomfortableness:

Congratulations on completing the build and doing your surfacing. Dean is right about the feed and speeds. I surfaced mine at 15000 rpm and 3000 mm/min at 0.7mm doc and it was fine using 1.25 inch dia bottom clearing bit. Love the cabinets and the neatness of everything!

OMLCNC
11-03-2017, 08:15 AM
Congratulations on completing the build and doing your surfacing. Dean is right about the feed and speeds. I surfaced mine at 15000 rpm and 3000 mm/min at 0.7mm doc and it was fine using 1.25 inch dia bottom clearing bit. Love the cabinets and the neatness of everything!

Thanks, its not that neat when you study it closely (and compared to others on the forum) but should do the jobs I want. If I turned the camera around you would see the normal total devastation in the workshop, I'm too busy making stuff to tidy up and I'm sure its a medical condition.

Like you and Dean say, I will try more feed next time. Being a novice it took me a while to realise that you could vary the speed and feed while running the programme in Mach3. The doc (depth of cut?) was 3mm max.

Davek0974
12-03-2017, 09:30 AM
I'm sure its a medical condition.



Nah, it's pretty normal ;)

Nickhofen
07-05-2017, 09:58 PM
I read the whole thread at once, grate build and nice machine!!!
Have you make sawdust, or experiment with aluminum cut yet?

OMLCNC
08-05-2017, 08:01 AM
I read the whole thread at once, grate build and nice machine!!!
Have you make sawdust, or experiment with aluminum cut yet?

Thanks Nickhofen, yes I have, but been very busy with other things so not had much time on the CNC. I made the dust cover for the machine Z axis in aluminium sheet on the machine but it did not cut great but scored well for folding. I think I should have scored it all out and then cut it with air shears as you get a cleaner cut on thin sheet.
I have also made cam clamps, jigs and fixtures for the machine and first paid commission job was the meat board with wooden spikes in English Walnut. I think it would have been very difficult to do the spikes conventionally with a router.
I've also done some dovetails which is what I built the machine for and will post some pictures when finished.215522155321554

Nr1madman
08-05-2017, 08:18 AM
I like the cutting board :) truly nice machine aswell!!

Nickhofen
08-05-2017, 10:43 AM
Nice cutting boards!!!
I read and search in the forum to gather info for building my cnc that is why I ask.
Thanks for the reply. It looks like you nail the purpose you build the machine for, happy cncing!!!

MikeyC38
08-05-2017, 03:35 PM
Thanks Nickhofen, yes I have, but been very busy with other things so not had much time on the CNC. I made the dust cover for the machine Z axis in aluminium sheet on the machine but it did not cut great but scored well for folding. I think I should have scored it all out and then cut it with air shears as you get a cleaner cut on thin sheet.
I have also made cam clamps, jigs and fixtures for the machine and first paid commission job was the meat board with wooden spikes in English Walnut. I think it would have been very difficult to do the spikes conventionally with a router.
I've also done some dovetails which is what I built the machine for and will post some pictures when finished.215522155321554

I like the idea of the dust cover on the Z axis. Dust gets everywhere especially cutting wood. I've made a dusthood for mine which connects to my Cyclone filter - see here (http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/8206-Ar-last%21%21%21-Started-my-Gantry-3-Axis-CNC-Build/page6) post #56 and it helps. What type of endmill, feeds and rpm did you use on the Walnut?

Thanks
Mike

OMLCNC
08-05-2017, 08:55 PM
I like the idea of the dust cover on the Z axis. Dust gets everywhere especially cutting wood. I've made a dusthood for mine which connects to my Cyclone filter - see here (http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/8206-Ar-last%21%21%21-Started-my-Gantry-3-Axis-CNC-Build/page6) post #56 and it helps. What type of endmill, feeds and rpm did you use on the Walnut?

Thanks
Mike

Dust Cover is a copy of Dean's, there's a picture of it somewhere on the forum. I did add a flat piece of sheet on the bottom of the Z axis to try and stop chips and dust going up inside as well.

The Walnut I used 3 router bits, 18mm end mill for surfacing and cutting the hand hold pockets and profiling the edge of the board (12000rpm 60mm/sec), a 19mm ball nose bit for the well, spot and gutters (12000rpm 40mmm/min), a 12mm v 90 degree bit for the spikes. (16000rpm 40mm/sec).
I'm still experimenting and getting lots of things wrong (you can see were I forgot to check the tool hight and it dived into the board near the well - I did a repair - and lots of swearing)
You need lots of scrap material - I have made about 8 of these boards before I got one acceptable. They take about 45 minutes start to finish with tool changing and 5 minutes of sanding to clean up.

I have made a couple of dust shoes and seen your cyclone set up (I have read your entire build).
I have a double bag dust extraction system 125mm dia pipe. The latest dust shoe is made out of a piece of drain pipe and works well even if it looks a dodge. I will take a picture for you to laugh at some time. I tend only to use it when I'm happy with the program, so I can see when the tool has broken or dived into the job!

OMLCNC
12-09-2017, 04:58 PM
22778

Dodge dust shoe to laugh at.

Question - I am thinking of adding 4th axis to make twisted lamps. Could be 200mm diameter and 1500mm long in the future. (Standard Lamp)

I am assuming you just buy another motor controler am882 (tyre lever into cabinet) and a 4th axis such as http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NO-VAT-CNC-Engraving-Hollow-Shaft-4th-Axis-Rotational-100mm-4-Jaw-MT2-Tailstock-/162577445370?hash=item25da5ef1fa:g:GVIAAOSwCXxZp8J T?

Wire it all up, then set Mach 3 up and away you go?

Any thoughts appreciated.

Desertboy
12-09-2017, 06:53 PM
22778

Dodge dust shoe to laugh at.

The important thing is it works ;)

Do you need to work on 1.5m long pieces with the 4th axis?

OMLCNC
13-09-2017, 08:52 AM
The important thing is it works ;)

Do you need to work on 1.5m long pieces with the 4th axis?

Eventualy yes. The idea is to get a 4th axis capable of working with 1.5m long pieces, experiment on this machine (1.2m y axis travel max) and then build new machine
to take full sheet (2240mm x 1220mm) and 4th axis and be vertical / horizontal is the long term plan.

Any advise ideas appreciated.

Boyan Silyavski
13-09-2017, 05:21 PM
That dust shoe looks very properly made, exactly the way i think should be!

Very long 4rth axis may vibrate, the workpiece i mean

OMLCNC
15-09-2017, 11:23 AM
That dust shoe looks very properly made, exactly the way i think should be!

Very long 4rth axis may vibrate, the workpiece i mean

Shoud be ok Boyan as i've turned them between centres at that length.