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View Full Version : BUILD LOG: Warco WM16 CNC Conversion.



noyloj
02-01-2017, 09:02 PM
Hi there

Just assembling the components for my new build CNC conversion of the Warco WM16 milling machine.

I Converted a little Proxxon Micro Mill to CNC for fun a few years back and sold it on when I'd finished, I used all the cheapest Chinese bits I could get and was quite happy with the result...

This time I'm aiming for something a bit different.

WM16

There are plenty of resources detailing conversions of this machine and variants on the internet and it seemed a logical choice both in terms of size and price so I went ahead and bought it. The same machine (or VERY similar) is also sold as the Grizzly G0704, Optimum BF20l and Amadeal AMAT25LV I believe...

I have purchased 2HSS86H closed loop hybrid drives with 2 x 8.5Nm motors for X and Y axis and a 12Nm motor for the Z as well as some cheap chinese pre-machined ballscrews and nuts from ebay which I can play with without too much worry...

(I should say that I've been advised, correctly I believe, that these motors and drivers are oversize for this application but i'm going ahead with this approach because I got the motors and drivers at a giveaway price from a mate's incomplete router project! BE WARNED!)

Probably going for UC300eth for motion control with one HDBB2 breakout board with UCC software...

Got a couple of ideas for the motor and bearing mounts but will have to take a good look at the mill before I start...

First off is a stripdown, clean and assessment... I'll post again afterwards with some more info.

John S
02-01-2017, 09:20 PM
Those motors are far, far to big and will only slow the machine down believe it or not.
4.5 Nm for X and Y and the same for Z but with 2:1 belt reduction.

noyloj
02-01-2017, 09:22 PM
I'm not looking for speed

noyloj
02-01-2017, 09:25 PM
I'm hoping to keep the motors and drivers for my next project... But at the risk of sounding dumb, why should the larger motors affect top speed? Surely not through inertia?

noyloj
02-01-2017, 09:44 PM
I suppose that the higher power means that current switching will be slower... but not to any degree that will matter considering the maximum velocity these motors are rated at and the application that they are being used in?

noyloj
02-01-2017, 09:45 PM
If I run them at plenty high voltage this should offset switching rates through the windings...

noyloj
02-01-2017, 09:50 PM
The motors will never be under any real load and should never get warm either which will reduce internal resistance after extended periods and again offset speed at which current flow can be changed though the windings over smaller motors..

Clive S
02-01-2017, 10:03 PM
Well you seem to have it sorted then. I have a WM18 mill with nema 23s with 2:1 reduction at 68V and am882 drives and it is fine.

You will need to do some more research if you think nema 34 8.5Nm are correct.

noyloj
02-01-2017, 10:10 PM
I'll use what I've got and hope that it's adequate. I want to use the motors and drives for a much bigger CNC router project later... it's not really that important that this machine runs super fast it's not for production more for fun! But thanks for the input, I'll consider it when I build my next mill.

This mill is more to enable me to play with these drives and whatever controller before my router build.

Incidentally, I'm going to direct drive the Z axis... belts are just another link in a chain imo.

noyloj
02-01-2017, 10:12 PM
I'll keep you posted as to how this pans out!

komatias
03-01-2017, 09:41 AM
Hi, I sell a similar machine to the warco and am currently designing a sort of plug and play CNC kit with pro quality hardware that does not need you to machine the castings. If you are interested let me know.

JAZZCNC
03-01-2017, 06:47 PM
Incidentally, I'm going to direct drive the Z axis... belts are just another link in a chain imo.

You have lot to learn Mr.!! . . And your not going to learn anything except how to waste money if your going to ignore advise from VERY VERY VERY experienced builders.

Motor size isn't all about speed and Belts are in no way weak link.!! . . . . Now suggest if your not prepared to listen then you go away quitely and research out why two experienced builders have used Smaller motor and Belts on larger machines.?

komatias
03-01-2017, 07:06 PM
My vote goes to: belts are not to be afraid of and that, for the machine, Nema 24's are fine.

Spend more money on quality than size.

noyloj
03-01-2017, 08:50 PM
Yes I'm sure I have lots to learn and I'm looking forward to doing in the critical eyes of all the experts here! But the motors are bought and paid for so they are going in, direct drive similar to Hoss's machine plans in the US. Afterwards when I've played with my choice of motors, controllers, software and bobs I can re-use them on the steel frame router I want to build. So unless someone wants to donate some nice quality Nema 24s then live with it. I will.

JAZZCNC
03-01-2017, 09:15 PM
So unless someone wants to donate some nice quality Nema 24s then live with it. I will.

Ar@$ H@% You won't get much help here with that attitude and with those size motors your planned router will be shite as well.!! . . . Crack On.:stupid:

noyloj
03-01-2017, 09:16 PM
Thanks for your permission!

I'm sensing a lot of hostility here! Chill out who gives a flying f@*k if this machine isn't the most efficient machine in the universe. Have a cup of tea and try to get things in perspective!

Clive S
03-01-2017, 09:27 PM
Yes I'm sure I have lots to learn and look I'm forward to doing in the critical eyes of all the experts here! But the motors are bought and paid for so they are going in, direct drive similar to Hoss's machine plans in the US. Afterwards when I've played with my choice of motors, controllers, software and bobs I can re-use them on the steel frame router I want to build. So unless someone wants to donate some nice quality Nema 24s then live with it. I will.

Have you actually read his site because he use nema 23 I wonder why.

Its not us that has to live with it its you. Looks like you are pissing a lot of people off.

JAZZCNC
03-01-2017, 09:36 PM
Thanks for your permission!

I'm sensing a lot of hostility here! Chill out who gives a flying f@*k if this machine isn't the most efficient machine in the universe. Have a cup of tea and try to get things in perspective!

Your Welcome.!!

We try to help people here from making mistakes and one way to do that is by pointing things out whether the OP likes to hear it or not.?
Reason we do this is because even if the OP is Arrogant Arse and won't listen there are many more who see this and do listen so won't make the mistakes the Plonker OP DID or WILL DO.!!

Don't Be Plonker try listening and you'll learn something.! . . Make my Tea strong, no Sugar I'm sweet enough . .:beer:

noyloj
03-01-2017, 09:44 PM
Yes but this will be an honest log of a build using these motors. I got them for 60 including drivers and power supplies. I'm not pissing anyone off I'm trying to describe a build for good or bad. It's information. So like I said they are not ideal but they will work, I imagine, and enable me to make parts for a bigger 8x4 router I want to make. I'm sorry if you don't like it but that's how it is you don't need to get so riled up because I'm going my own way!

I edited the initial post to clarify that this mill drive motor combination may not be ideal so that others don't attempt to copy this design without following the thread to it's conclusion.

John S
03-01-2017, 10:01 PM
Whatever.

Don't bother with my tea, don't drink the piss.

noyloj
03-01-2017, 10:24 PM
Good for you! That's super!

noyloj
03-01-2017, 10:33 PM
Anyhoooo!

So just finished my lovely cup of tea.... It's got me thinking though... perhaps I'll make my Stepper mounting plates Nema 23 and Nema 34 compatible... just a matter of making the plates big enough and tapping a few extra holes... Hmmmm

komatias
03-01-2017, 10:53 PM
Thats the spirit.

noyloj
03-01-2017, 11:11 PM
Better still Nema 24 compatible as I can get 3Nm Nema 24s that can perhaps use the same drivers as my larger Nema 34s...

John S
04-01-2017, 12:36 AM
23's and 24's are compatible as regards hole sizes. It just the bodies that are bigger.

Just double checked with a digital vernier as I'm sat here 3D printing covers out for both.

http://www.stevenson-engineers.co.uk/files/23%20and%2024%20motor%20ends..jpg

6 done, 1,234 to go :ambivalence:

noyloj
04-01-2017, 06:07 AM
That's handy, thanks! I think JMC do a 3 Nm Nema24 60HSE closed loop hybrid stepper motor... but I'm not sure it will be compatible with the 2HSS86H drivers... The motor specs are quite similar as regards resistance, step angle, etc... only the inductance seems to be lower... any idea if I can use these together?

noyloj
04-01-2017, 12:22 PM
It seems that with a motor with less inductance, the switching frequency will increase as well. This is why each stepper driver system needs to be “tuned” to the motor. If the motor inductance is different, so will its Ldi/dt be different. At the end it is this Ldi/dt which defines the TIME_ON period of the current chopping waveform...

These dives, being fairly good quality might be capable of running these motors however... time for a message to technical support!

Robin Hewitt
04-01-2017, 12:56 PM
It wasn't what I thought it was...

http://www.warco.co.uk/milling-machines/32-wm-16-variable-speed-milling-machine.html

Suggestion: Ask Dean what motors to get and then bodge it together using those, the existing X Y screws and something clever but temporary on the Z.

Once it is "working", redesign it because you now have experience and understanding. Plus you have a "working" CNC mill so you can do a really neat job of the conversion.

noyloj
04-01-2017, 02:34 PM
Thanks... it's kinda the plan in fact.

The initial build will be with the oversize motors that I picked up cheap all direct drive... but I picked up x,y(front mount) and z ballscrews and nuts from ebay for a song too complete with endmachining... all in 110. I'm basing my provisional build around Hoss's design (well known in a certain US CNC forum). When it's working and I've got my head round the drives, controller software combination then I want to make a steel frame CNC router, 'cos I've got a nice MIG and loads of free steel as well as a more permanent, rear y motor mount direct drive setup for the Warco probably with smaller motors! Shhh though don't tell anyone about the reduced size motors in the final phase!

noyloj
04-01-2017, 02:48 PM
So I went ahead and ordered the UC300ETH as well as their BOB HDBB2 and UCC software... Not the cheapest solution but after a bit of research probably about as good as anything else... and made in Europe... the same Europe that we are leaving... so that we can't trade with easily anymore... whose idea was that!

noyloj
04-01-2017, 09:09 PM
It's me again! Your friendly neighbourhood upstart a&*$%e! Well it seems that my drivers are copies of copies of Leadshine ES-D 808 drivers... Leadshine offer free tuning software on their website for this driver which is also listed as being appropriate for the 3Nm Nema24 frame ES-M22430, which I will probably replace my 8.5Nm x and y axis motors with... (possibly shifting one of the 8.5 up to the z position to replace the 12Nm) but that's gonna be after I've finished the preliminary build and can cut some metal...

Hopefully the tuning software will run on the copy drivers... fingers crossed!

noyloj
05-01-2017, 07:45 PM
Well it's me again! More digging and I find that the drivers aren't JMC at all they are Changzhou Jinsanshi Mechatronics HSS86 (http://www.jss-motor.com/product/nema-34-closed-loop-stepper-motor-and-driver.html) they also seem to be a very close copy of the Leadshine ES-D 808 driver mentioned in the previous post. I have fired them an email to see if they also supply tuning software...

WARCO have crated up my WM16 for dispatch so hopefully should get it in a few days...

noyloj
05-01-2017, 11:39 PM
Incidentally are there any Moderators out there who could move this Thread to the Mill Conversion part of this Forum, where it is probably more appropriate, or tell me if it's possible for me to do this!

John S
06-01-2017, 12:00 AM
We don't have moderators, only dictators

noyloj
06-01-2017, 12:17 AM
Well certainly parts of the last word!

Jo A -
hole...

noyloj
06-01-2017, 12:18 AM
I meant tators of course like mashed tators! Y'know?

noyloj
06-01-2017, 01:40 AM
Of course if no-one knows HOW to move this thread I'm sure there are forums that could explain to you how to do it... And what colour shirt you have to wear whilst moving the thread.. and what hot beverage to drink afterward... etc...

noyloj
07-01-2017, 09:03 PM
Ok I.ve spent an hour examining the differences between the Leadshine Hybrid motors and the jss-motors (Changzhou Jinsanshi Mechatronics) copies... the pinouts for the DB9 are quite different... this is not a good sign for me using the Leadshine motor tuning software... There is an outside chance that the eeproms of both are the same and I can use the software to Rx and Tx if I just get the pin connections right, but it's unlikely. I will see what jss-motors recommend for tuning... I think JMC offer a hand held tuning device for their hybrid motors, maybe jss-motors do the same...

noyloj
07-01-2017, 09:05 PM
Still waiting for my UC300ETH and BOB and cables... Ho Hum! Would give me something to play with whilst I wait for the Mill to be shipped... never mind though I will catch up with some homework!

JAZZCNC
07-01-2017, 09:16 PM
Of course if no-one knows HOW to move this thread I'm sure there are forums that could explain to you how to do it... And what colour shirt you have to wear whilst moving the thread.. and what hot beverage to drink afterward... etc...

Well get your self off then.!!. . . . . Sure with attitude like yours you'll go down storm there as well.:encouragement:

magicniner
07-01-2017, 09:43 PM
Of course if no-one knows HOW to move this thread I'm sure there are forums that could explain to you how to do it... And what colour shirt you have to wear whilst moving the thread.. and what hot beverage to drink afterward... etc...

Crikey,
I'd have canned you for for being an enormous knobsock, just shows you how laid back the management 'round here is, but keep in mind you've already pissed off many of the natives best placed to help clueless souls such as yourself.
I've bookmarked this one as I like a larf and have popcorn in stock ;-)

- Nick

noyloj
07-01-2017, 10:12 PM
Sense of humour failure!
But sure you must be right! How could I DARE to question! KMA! Hahahha!

noyloj
07-01-2017, 10:15 PM
All hail the great Know Everythings who must be obeyed in fear of being 'canned'... Oh where's my mummy!

noyloj
07-01-2017, 10:17 PM
Incidentally this is a build log. I don't remember asking ANY questions here. I asked questions in the other parts of this forum! Logic non?

noyloj
07-01-2017, 10:26 PM
It ain't me telling people how to button their shirts!

I honestly never knew machinists could be such sensitive little flowers! All over the size of a couple of motors! Bless!

noyloj
07-01-2017, 11:19 PM
Have you actually read his site because he use nema 23 I wonder why.

Its not us that has to live with it its you. Looks like you are pissing a lot of people off.

Yes I did read his site and his plans are direct drive all axis and Nema34 for the Z. There is more than one way to skin a cat.

noyloj
07-01-2017, 11:21 PM
And just to prove I'm not the only mad bastard to use Nema 34s all axis. Amonst many others, there's this guy who sells kits in the states. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wixyn2RNNpU

And I'm only f'in using them 'cos I got them cheap! Nutters!

magicniner
07-01-2017, 11:25 PM
Who's your dealer?
Uppers of some sort, yes?
:D

noyloj
07-01-2017, 11:33 PM
Life's a natural high when you're surrounded by good company!

Clive S
07-01-2017, 11:35 PM
Life's a natural high when you're surrounded by good company!

Well then it seems your in good company

John S
07-01-2017, 11:37 PM
And just to prove I'm not the only mad bastard to use Nema 34s all axis. Amonst many others, there's this guy who sells kits in the states. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wixyn2RNNpU

And I'm only f'in using them 'cos I got them cheap! Nutters!

I got my first missus cheap but don't mean to say she was any good

What a limp video, tells you sod all, might as well advertise on the back of a bus except for the fact he's using the wrong couplings so what else is pissed up. the yanks are good for this , they invented the Bridgeport after all.

Look at the CNC fusion kits, Z axis stuck that far out the side it's only good for drying clothes on.
The Hi torque lathe kit looks like it was designed in kindergarden.

noyloj
07-01-2017, 11:37 PM
Clive s. I don't think I ever suggested otherwise!

noyloj
07-01-2017, 11:39 PM
I got my first missus cheap but don't mean to say she was any good

What a limp video, tells you sod all, might as well advertise on the back of a bus except for the fact he's using the wrong couplings so what else is pissed up. the yanks are good for this , they invented the Bridgeport after all.

Look at the CNC fusion kits, Z axis stuck that far out the side it's only good for drying clothes on.
The Hi torque lathe kit looks like it was designed in kindergarden.

Yes but you still used her didn't cha! ;)

JAZZCNC
08-01-2017, 12:05 AM
Yes but you still used her didn't cha! ;)

Ye but when his Old Girt was still with us she listened to his every word because he's such tactfull knowledgable Charmer. (Well that's what the Old bastard told me anyway)

Now is new upgraded model it's other way around because she can teach him thing or two. . Lol

noyloj
08-01-2017, 12:17 AM
Ye but when his Old Girt was still with us she listened to his every word because he's such tactfull knowledgable Charmer. (Well that's what the Old bastard told me anyway)

Now is new upgraded model it's other way around because she can teach him thing or two. . Lol

Tact and charm are my strong points too! See how much we have in common!

JAZZCNC
08-01-2017, 02:06 AM
Tact and charm are my strong points too! See how much we have in common!

No John is Wise old Owl and Gent your just arrogent Cockend.!!

noyloj
08-01-2017, 09:14 AM
No John is Wise old Owl and Gent your just arrogent Cockend.!!

Still, at least I don't resort to insults when I don't know the first thing about someone's background. Still in ya cozy little internet bubble it you'll have that nice warm feeling. Anyway much as I'd like to absorb all the vitriol (just because I AM USING NEMA 34 motors and refuse to kiss ass!) I'd rather fill this space with a log of my build.

Can you imagine Star Trek?

Captains Log, Stardate 7 1 2017.

We are just about to enter the Alpha Quadrant....

(Pipes up) Oooh, No Captain! You don't enter the Alpha Quadrant like that we've all already been to the Alpha Quadrant, it's not as good as you think it is! You are an arrogant shit if you think you can enter the Alpha Quadrant like that! In fact we've a good mind to take away your Log! Now do as you're told and enter the Alpha Quadrant like you've been told!

Hahhahah!

Over and out!

noyloj
08-01-2017, 09:46 AM
Incidentally you should look up the definition of LOG in this context.

Merriam-Webster:- a record of performance, events, or day-to-day activities

Cambridge:- a full written record of a journey, a period of time, or an event

I don't think there is any mention of the writers character or personality by people unconnected to the aforementioned events!

JAZZCNC
08-01-2017, 12:57 PM
Still, at least I don't resort to insults when I don't know the first thing about someone's background.

We like to try help people not make mistakes around here whether we see that in LOG or General Q post but when they come back with attitude like yours which was rude and arrogant we make assumptions based on that attitude. Hence you acted like Cockend with your replys to people who are just trying to help offer sound advise So your COCKEND to ME.!!

Just because you have Drives/motors and they were cheap doesn't mean you should use them. You could sell them and buy better suited.!
We know thru experience that there's lot of work time goes into building/converting these machines and not something one wants to waste time doing twice so the advise given is based on things like this not just because we are Anal or got OCD.

Now Captain Clingon crack on with your LOG and have happy Journey.

noyloj
08-01-2017, 03:04 PM
If I sold them I wouldn't be able to play with them, or re-use them for my router project! It's very simple. Granted they are not ideal but many people who convert these machines seem to do so in phases. Using what is cheap and at hand provisionally to go onto adapt the build into something else. Hoss's plans breaks down into three phases. Mine begins as an adaptation of the second phase. It's not an attack on anyone here to say that this is how I intend to build my machine. I'm very happy if you've all found good solutions. If I had the cash, or wanted to, I would buy a kit and go down that road but I simply came here to build a machine THIS way. The pitfalls, and I'm sure there will be many, are part of the learning curve for me. The log here should provide evidence of these pitfalls for other people. I honestly don't see what the problem is. I was not foul mouthed or abusive toward anyone here, believe it or not I respect you guys, who many would consider to be a bunch of geeks, because I am a sad geek too! I hope you can understand that my abrasive manner is not any reflection on anyone here, and I certainly didn't mean to be understood as rude! It's just who I am since my accident. Happy CNCing!

noyloj
13-01-2017, 02:25 PM
Right then. Me ballscrews arrived the other day. I need to machine an M10 thread near the end of the y axis screw... I don't have access to a lathe for screw cutting so I've ordered a good quality M!0 - 1mm die from ebay. I was going to use standard 1.5mm threading but was kindly reminded (by Komatias) that I may not get the die past the 8mm machined end. Thanks a lot! there is some degree of disagreement about the feasibility of cutting the thread by hand but although it doesn't seem to be the recommended approach a few people suggest that it can be done so I'll let you know how it goes. The problem seems to be keeping the die adequately square (perpendicular) to the ballscrew... I had initially hoped to put the screw into the a chuck held in my rotary table and make a die holder to put in the tailstock that could be allowed to travel as the thread progressed but since the 2MT tool holder in the HV6 is too small for the 16mm diameter screw this ain't gonna happen... however in a re-inventing the wheel moment of inspiration I thought it may just be a plan to try and hold the screw with the tailstock clamp which is nominally 18mm diameter(except for a bush at the back) or possibly to make a 16mm clamp that will fit into tailstock base... there may yet be hope! The mill proper has apparently been despatched today and will arrive in sunny France toward the end of next week I'm told... My UC300 motion controller, BOB and software were due to arrive today but it's snowing so who knows?

I should mention that aside from the missing thread... the screws seem pretty good!

njhussey
13-01-2017, 03:32 PM
Stick the screw in the lathe chuck (with something protecting the screw) and use a drill chuck in your tailstock with the chuck jaws wound right in to keep it square, wind the chick.in as you spin the die (not the chuck)....that's how I do it....😁

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

noyloj
13-01-2017, 05:48 PM
Stick the screw in the lathe chuck (with something protecting the screw) and use a drill chuck in your tailstock with the chuck jaws wound right in to keep it square, wind the chick.in as you spin the die (not the chuck)....that's how I do it....��

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

Hi Neil

This is something like what I wanted to do but the 2MT taper on the rotary table is too small to take the 16mm ballscrew...

What do you mean with about using the drill chuck to keep it square btw?

Ah... I gotcha!

Thanks Jo

njhussey
13-01-2017, 06:20 PM
Just read your post again Jo and see your dilemma, clamp 2 bits of 3"x2" wood together and drill a 14mm hole or largest drill bit you have nearest that size if not got that size, equi spaced through the join. Do this twice and use them as clamps for your ballscrew. Then screw them down to a flat work bench/door (but maybe not kitchen worktop.....unless you're single 😉) with a suitable spacer underneath them so you can turn your die without hitting the surface. Screw down a batton parallel to your ballscrew 25mm offset from it and then make yourself a 345 triangle that you can use to slide against the batton thus keeping the die square to the ballscrew....

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

noyloj
13-01-2017, 06:45 PM
Just read your post again Jo and see your dilemma, clamp 2 bits of 3"x2" wood together and drill a 14mm hole or largest drill bit you have nearest that size if not got that size, equi spaced through the join. Do this twice and use them as clamps for your ballscrew. Then screw them down to a flat work bench/door (but maybe not kitchen worktop.....unless you're single ��) with a suitable spacer underneath them so you can turn your die without hitting the surface. Screw down a batton parallel to your ballscrew 25mm offset from it and then make yourself a 345 triangle that you can use to slide against the batton thus keeping the die square to the ballscrew....

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

I like your thinking! A jig... Hmmmm

Perhaps in steel?....

noyloj
14-01-2017, 06:26 PM
Yay!

Good news, having nothing to do today, since snow has further delayed the arrival of my UC300ETH motion controller, I pulled apart my old 'broken' Metrix 803B oscilloscope to see if I could identify the problem in preparation for my mill electrics/electronics and lo it was just a sticky switch! It doesn't get easier than that folks!

Gave her a good clean out inside at the same time I had her in bits... about an 1/8" of dust on everything horizontal!

Made a couple of mods cutting cables and putting in joiners to make her easier to pull apart, without a soldering iron, next time...

noyloj
17-01-2017, 10:22 PM
Ok

UC300ETH motion controller arrived today... along with the bb2 (and some cables that don't quite work to connect the two. Damn it!)

Couldn't get it to power up contacted cncdrive.com and they diagnosed that the jumper behind the 5V power socket was in the wrong position... I had noticed it didn't correspond with the drawing in the manual but was too scared to swap it over in case the magic pixies fried my new board...

So the board powered up and eventually got recognized by my laptop.... that runs windows ten but doesn't have the dotNET 2.0 framework on it and wont allow me to install it... so on to Microsoft who have suggested downloading a later version of windows 10 and updating... PAINFULLY slow download that already dropped out once at 38%.

I'll leave her cooking tonight and see how the cookie crumbles on the morrow...

Gonna need to work out the electrics between the BOB and the drivers... PNP, NPN... who knows?

Someone here probably... or it's out with the Oscilloscope Captain Clingon!

noyloj
19-01-2017, 09:14 PM
Windows 10 update is working now with the dotnet 2.0 framework.

UCCNC auto updated the firmware on the UC300 so they are playing nicely for the moment! I am using a direct connection from the laptop not through a router or switch... so I used a network crossover Ethernet cable not a straight one...

Wm16 Mill arrived today and I managed to split it into two and lug the pieces upstairs with the help of my neighbor.... Gonna have to find a good table or weld up a stand for her... The stand is probably the way forward... I've got some angle kicking about here somewhere... Could probably make it simply a skeleton and add sides and cabinet and/or drawer at a later date...

Currently transferring (via Ethernet LAN) all media and music from my laptop to my desktop so that I can strip it and set it up to run the motion controller and UCCNC and Mach3 and probably some other CAD software and bits and bobs related to the mill conversion... Must remember to rejig the LAN IP address etc. settings when I swap back the Ethernet cable for the motion controller...

noyloj
21-01-2017, 09:19 PM
Mill in bits all over the place now... quick way to familiarise oneself with a bit of kit and a chance to give it a good clean and lube... Plenty of paint and sticky resiny oily varnish stuff everywhere including on the ways... dirt and grit and grinding residue too.

Quite surprised about the machining done to get the column perpendicular to the base... it looks like someone took a grinder to the machined mating surfaces! Will try and tidy this up after she's cleaned reassembled and I've put the dial to her...

Otherwise pretty much as I imagined except that the saddle looks to have been machined with the intention of fitting ballscrews and mounts... the hole for the x-axis clamp block is much bigger than I've seen and is just about perfectly sized for the cheapo Chinese mount I bought, also a shallow 1mm slot already milled in it that might allow enough clearance for x axis screw...