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View Full Version : BUILD LOG: El Beast - Initial design phase, comments and critique welcomed!



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fifa
18-10-2017, 10:11 PM
Z axis can be easily blocked with "dummy nut" loaded with spring which is released with electomagnet when the machine (or only Z axis) is on.

Material for dummy nut is usually nylon or HDPE, therefore no worries for wear.



Congratulations for CF mill. I am impressed. Professional job.

regards

routercnc
18-10-2017, 10:18 PM
Lovely work there Zeeflyboy. A machine has to function but no harm in making it look nice along the way!

I've hit a slow spot on my build and other commitments need sorting so looks like you are going to finish well before me. Good progress keep it up.

qmarjov
25-10-2017, 09:47 AM
Hi Zeeflyboy
did you calculate? How much did you pay for everything?

BR//

Mario

Zeeflyboy
12-01-2018, 11:30 AM
Sorry, qmarjov - I don't yet have numbers to share for cost. I will do a rough estimate nearer the end though.

As you guys may have noticed, not much has happened last month or two. What with christmas and work commitments I haven't had time to do anything substantial on the project... The extra work related stuff should abate mid february and that is when I expect to pick this project back up more in earnest, though I may continue to do little bits and bobs along the way.

The reason for this post is that I just got a cool new toy to play with and thought it was too cool not to share the results.

When I say "I", I actually bought this for the wife so she could start a little home business to allow her to turn her hobby into a little side income stream. Of course, I get to play with it so I'm just going to count it as one of my toys!

So what is this new toy? Why a 45w CO2 laser of course!

https://i.imgur.com/JhMWxdx.jpg


We've actually done quite a few little test projects over the last day or two (including some cool stuff like etching slate coasters) to test out the machine and get the wife acquainted with operating it. But today I thought I'd have a little play with the sort of thing I actually want to use it for:

I tweaked my Logo design and did a quick test in wood to see how it looks:

https://i.imgur.com/hGbaNFY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2jGIC4x.jpg


Decided it looked nice, so went hunting down some anodised aluminium to try etching.... only thing I had to hand were the thorlabs angle brackets. I popped it and and had a guess at some numbers, came out beautifully! I had to remove the honeycomb tray as the brackets are a little thick to sit on top of that, so that is why the bracket is sat on some chopping boards. This job took about 4 minutes to run through.

https://i.imgur.com/1ILvU91.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/pad1Icy.jpg


I'm pretty ecstatic with the result there.... definitely opens up some new possibilities in terms of finishing items I make once I've got the anodising rig setup and working.

Aaaaanyway, back to real life work! Sad times.

Nickhofen
12-01-2018, 12:05 PM
Nice logo and the laser you bought is a good move for someone who wants to start a home business!

Zeeflyboy
12-01-2018, 12:22 PM
Well we shall see how it works out, I'm not expecting to be able to retire any time soon but I'm hoping she can make enough money to pay off the expense of the machine/maintenance and generate a little income from something she enjoys doing. Obviously this stuff is becoming more and more accessible so there are a lot of options out there for people looking for bespoke laser created items but I do feel its the sort of low volume thing that fits a "cottage industry" type operation rather well. I think going around and getting some tie-ins with local wedding dress shops and flower shops etc would be a good way of generating some business in a crowded online market.

But more importantly, I get to play with a frikkin laser!

Desertboy
12-01-2018, 03:42 PM
Well we shall see how it works out, I'm not expecting to be able to retire any time soon but I'm hoping she can make enough money to pay off the expense of the machine/maintenance and generate a little income from something she enjoys doing. Obviously this stuff is becoming more and more accessible so there are a lot of options out there for people looking for bespoke laser created items but I do feel its the sort of low volume thing that fits a "cottage industry" type operation rather well. I think going around and getting some tie-ins with local wedding dress shops and flower shops etc would be a good way of generating some business in a crowded online market.

But more importantly, I get to play with a frikkin laser!

what size cutting area has it got?

Zeeflyboy
12-01-2018, 03:46 PM
20"x11.5" I believe, although in theory as long as the material isn't too thick (the slots are quite narrow) you can use the passthrough slots to feed a longer piece of material 20" wide through the machine though I haven't tried obviously.

I believe the plan eventually is for it to take care of the passthrough automagically using the cameras for alignment and continuation of the pattern but that isn't available yet in the beta software. I believe it can be achieved manually you just need some way of indexing and aligning.

Wal
12-01-2018, 04:42 PM
That's very cool..! Any links to the laser you bought? What are you doing for extraction? I ask because the ones I've used in the past have had pretty expensive filtration set-ups attached to 'em - and given the smoke they generated on some of the jobs they really needed them too...

Excellent work though, man and best of luck to your wife in her new creative endeavours..!

Wal.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

JOGARA
12-01-2018, 05:57 PM
Would like to know what machine that is.

I have the K40 and the steps are quite visible when engraving anodized aluminum.

Zeeflyboy
12-01-2018, 06:11 PM
Itís a Glowforge Pro... finally arrived after buying one during the Kickstarter over 2 years ago. Thankfully that was at 50% the price that they are currently asking!

I have to say I thought that despite the marketing blurb of custom tubes etc it would be a mediocre laser but with an easy user interface for the non-technical missus to get to grips with, but first impressions are that it is actually a high quality bit of kit capable of some stunningly detailed results AND pretty easy to use.

Extraction wise, they have some fancy activated charcoal and hepa filter unit thingy but that is even more delayed than the laser itself and wonít be ready until the summer. It has pretty effective (and noisy) extraction fans and a hose connector on the back for drier hose. Currently that just gets shoved out the window to kill the squirrels.

JOGARA
12-01-2018, 06:17 PM
Just loaded YouTube and the newest video was LinusTechTips showing off the Glowforge xD

Looks alright. And yes it is not cheap.
Interested in the filter. New workshop does not have extraction and I am not allowed to bore a 4" hole in the wall. Not even for the tumble dryer -_-

rcriss
12-01-2018, 08:46 PM
ZeeFlyBoy would you be willing to share the fusion 360 files ?
This thing is truly amazing in every aspect!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

rcriss
12-01-2018, 08:46 PM
If Not It's understandable.
Thanks

Zeeflyboy
15-01-2018, 10:26 PM
Haven't made any decisions on that yet, although I've been asked a few times.

I need to wait until I've got it all together to check for any design flaws or things that could just blatantly be done better before deciding about that... I've already had a few little re-designs and tweaks along the way which would have wasted people's time and materials had I already made the files available.

I do hope to be able to get back to this machine in about a month once this stuff at work is sorted out, so hopefully it'll only be a few months or so until it's all done.

Desertboy
16-01-2018, 08:20 AM
It’s a Glowforge Pro... finally arrived after buying one during the Kickstarter over 2 years ago. Thankfully that was at 50% the price that they are currently asking!

I have to say I thought that despite the marketing blurb of custom tubes etc it would be a mediocre laser but with an easy user interface for the non-technical missus to get to grips with, but first impressions are that it is actually a high quality bit of kit capable of some stunningly detailed results AND pretty easy to use.

Extraction wise, they have some fancy activated charcoal and hepa filter unit thingy but that is even more delayed than the laser itself and won’t be ready until the summer. It has pretty effective (and noisy) extraction fans and a hose connector on the back for drier hose. Currently that just gets shoved out the window to kill the squirrels.

Word of advice don't cut PVC, the wife will die and more importantly the fumes will also damage the machine ;)

When you drill, cut or melt it with a laser lol the chlorine is released into the air. Chlorine gas was used as a nerve agent before mustard gas in WW1 it didn't work very well because charcoal filters it effectively but without the gas mask it's pretty affective.

How do I know this I drilled out 100 or so PVC pipes in an enclosed space and learnt a valuable lesson that day as well as taking 10 years off my life lol. But laser cutting releases a lot lot more gas then drilling.

Zeeflyboy
16-01-2018, 11:05 AM
yeah, not just PVC but any chlorinated plastic can produce chlorine gas when lasered... Apparently plenty of things to be careful about cutting due to what's released.

Desertboy
16-01-2018, 11:46 AM
Hows the anodizing coming along?

rcriss
16-01-2018, 05:27 PM
Thanks Zeeflyboy for the response on the files. I will be watching till the end!!! I love the design. I would just scale it up to a (work area of 610mm x 915mm). And Specifically for aluminum/Brass cutting. I cannot believe the results you are getting with your current CNC.

Zeeflyboy
26-03-2018, 01:52 PM
So chaps, been a while...

Good news is the work stuff is all done with and I got the promotion so happy days - work on this project can soon resume!

While I've been away I've been thinking about designs though (hard to turn off the brain sometimes!) and I was keen to get my ideas for a better z-axis down on paper so to speak. Spent most of yesterday modelling and this is what came out... I'm actually thinking of scrapping my current design and going with this one instead right away as it is in my opinion much improved.

I would love to get some feedback, opinions etc while I'm still refining the design. It's pretty much mostly there, just a few details such as limit switches and grease points to sort out.

It reuses the ballscrew/nut and a few other components from the old design, but will require new rails/carriages.

Headline changes:

- 2:1 ratio belt drive (25mm HTD 5M) to isolate the Z-axis stepper from the hefty vibrations and also give it a better gearing advantage for the now pretty heavy Z-axis.

- Extended rails/front plate which now results in a permanently sealed/protected unit at all positions

- HGH25HA carriages (the size is more convenient) spaced much further apart in all directions for improved rigidity

- Rear mount HGR-T 25 rails for easier installation (increased size also will improve the rigidity of the Z-axis front plate when extended down).

- Ability to tram the entire axis while mounted with only the need to remove the bottom plate to do so.

- Marginally more compact with a reduction of 5mm in stick-out from the X-axis.


will share more details when it's completely finished, but as mentioned I'm keen for any input in the mean time.

https://i.imgur.com/KMJqQnp.png

https://i.imgur.com/iitjLJV.png

https://i.imgur.com/Ss0MUEp.png

https://i.imgur.com/s5hDScB.png

Nickhofen
26-03-2018, 02:00 PM
Congrats for the promotion.
The Z axis design looks gooood!!!

Zeeflyboy
16-04-2018, 02:13 PM
Cheers Nick!

So I fleshed out the design with all the details...

This is the pulley system. I added a manual knob on top as I do find it quite useful to sometimes be able to manually move up the Z-axis while setting up. I also added proper bearing support so the pulley system is properly supported.

https://i.imgur.com/phmh6FP.png

https://i.imgur.com/phmh6FP.png

Better view of the tensioner idler. I had thoughts of more complicated setups, but this is a simple design - simply an oversized centre bore that allows you to push the tensioner into the belt and then fasten down to clamp it in place.

https://i.imgur.com/pT6T5gZ.png


Moving on, here you can see the seals and the (to be 3d printed) magnet holder on the HD16 ball screw mount

https://i.imgur.com/rEjhuKR.png

https://i.imgur.com/QVAElmd.png


Got a little time to make a start on things too. So first up was modifying the large pulley... I decided to get rid of the ballscrew nut and just make the pulley into the retaining system.

First up I centred the pulley in the lathe and drilled a 10mm bore (the size of the ballscrew mounting shaft).

https://i.imgur.com/IbvWe2x.jpg

I then mounted it to a 10mm shaft with loctite to allow me to work on the other side where I needed to open the bore to 11mm to allow me to tap it to m12x1 to match the ballscrew.

https://i.imgur.com/QeClpls.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cMneU16.jpg


Ideally of course the ballscrew shaft would extend all the way into the counter bearing, but I had already ordered my screws for the old design and I'm not re-ordering a c3 ballscrew! To solve that problem I made a small press-fit extension shaft:

https://i.imgur.com/TRIXmZo.jpg

end result:

https://i.imgur.com/u3MDlX8.jpg

Zeeflyboy
16-04-2018, 02:13 PM
I now just need to machine a slightly longer collar for the FK12 so that the pulley doesn't bind on the housing.

With that done, I moved on to the motor shaft extension.

First up, centred the smaller pulley (had to remove the top cap) and bored to 6mm.

https://i.imgur.com/AiPhUf8.jpg

For the shaft I centre drilled first as this is going to be quite long/thin so needs support at the far end from the live centre.

https://i.imgur.com/p2R3c5G.jpg


Turned down to 6mm

https://i.imgur.com/SIY7ZvE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/19r8IRi.jpg

Flipped, re-centred and then did the work on the other end. It's critical that this is a really precise fit on the motor shaft and that it's concentric to the outside as any error will either cause the motor to bind or damage the bearings. To that end I used a 7.8mm drill followed by 8mm h7 reamer and then turned down the external diameter.

https://i.imgur.com/0AIyf2c.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Y0FgW4C.jpg


I did all this work and then ended up turning down the external dimension a hair too far, so now it's a loose fit in the bearing. Frustrating doesn't quite cover it! Will have to put this on the re-do list once I get back from holiday.

While all this was going on, the 3d printer was at work on the seals.

https://i.imgur.com/3Pxa0FG.jpg

Who says 3d printers can't be accurate - this was spot on! (I did adjust by 0.8% for thermal expansion before printing)

https://i.imgur.com/ccQrPyz.jpg


The big bottom seal next (6hr print!)

https://i.imgur.com/SZXNxAm.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/TTj9Vcr.jpg

Very nice fit - smooth and doesn't stick at all along the rails, but close enough that it should keep the nasty stuff out.

That's all for now. Hope to re-do the shaft extension and get the idler done when I'm back next week.

routercnc
16-04-2018, 10:03 PM
Nice work there well done. Those seals are looking great. The ones you made for me work well and are just tight enough but not too tight. You might have seen in the last video I put out that the steppers have no problem moving the axis so a big thank you for that.

Missing a critical dimension is annoying. Sometimes I aim a few hundreds of a mm over size, check with the micrometer and use sand paper strips to get it to final size. Takes a while but quicker than starting again if you overshoot

I assume you didn't fancy slots for the stepper to tension the belt? Also do you have bearings in the top plate for the end of the pulley and the end of the stepper shaft? If so I would make one of them floating in a separate small plate which bolts to the main plate. This will allow both bearings to sit where their respective shafts dictate - otherwise the pockets have to be machined very accurately. Something to think about. Have a good break and don't think about CNC too much.

Zeeflyboy
22-04-2018, 07:35 PM
The ones you made for me work well and are just tight enough but not too tight. You might have seen in the last video I put out that the steppers have no problem moving the axis so a big thank you for that.

Glad to hear it - haven't caught up on your work for a while actually... need to go see what's happened while i've been gone!


Missing a critical dimension is annoying. Sometimes I aim a few hundreds of a mm over size, check with the micrometer and use sand paper strips to get it to final size. Takes a while but quicker than starting again if you overshoot

Thanks - that's what I did this time and it worked well.


I assume you didn't fancy slots for the stepper to tension the belt? Also do you have bearings in the top plate for the end of the pulley and the end of the stepper shaft? If so I would make one of them floating in a separate small plate which bolts to the main plate. This will allow both bearings to sit where their respective shafts dictate - otherwise the pockets have to be machined very accurately. Something to think about. Have a good break and don't think about CNC too much.

Cheers for the thoughts. I was originally going to go with slots, but it makes it difficult to use a seperate bearing setup for the stepper motor which I wanted to do for the sake of my motor bearings, and the tensioner has the benefit of engaging more teeth on the small pulley.

I will think about floating the bearing above the ball screw - that's a good suggestion thanks.


So I re-made the shaft extension (it worked this time, I won't bore you with pictures as the process was much the same) and also made the knurled knob that allows me to manually move the Z-axis up/down. My thoughts are this is also an easy place to install a brake if the Z-axis proves heavy enough to slide down on it's own.

So started off by turning the alu stock down to size

https://i.imgur.com/34TQKaC.jpg

Knurled and parting

https://i.imgur.com/m2FaBGY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/k1TeCH4.jpg


Meanwhile, 3D printed a drill jig to make drilling the retaining grub screw hole easier.

https://i.imgur.com/ubCL7QA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/j8sWBi4.jpg


Pressed into place

https://i.imgur.com/sfawxH2.jpg


To save damaging the collar (plus it's a pretty small thing to clamp) I then mounted a 6mm rod in the lathe and used that to mount the knob to do the top side operations:

https://i.imgur.com/xqYFovz.jpg


Final part:

https://i.imgur.com/XLlTfsx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5CIkbi6.jpg


This is the assembly:

https://i.imgur.com/cbbj2Gr.jpg

Nickhofen
22-04-2018, 07:57 PM
You are a bad guy!!! I have lathe envy now!

routercnc
22-04-2018, 10:17 PM
You are a bad guy!!! I have lathe envy now!

I waited a long time before I bought my lathe as I wasn't sure I'd make good use of it. Now I couldn't be without it! Along side a mill / router, and a pillar drill there isn't much you can't make.

Zeeflyboy - more great work there with a nice finish to the parts. One thing to bare in mind is adding thumb wheels or other discs adds to the rotational inertia and knocks a bit of performance off the stepper. Not a big deal on yours as the diameter is quite small and for most work the Z is not flying up and down. Just thought I'd mention it in case you were adding some to the X and Y.

Desertboy
22-04-2018, 10:52 PM
there isn't much you can't make.

I saw Pacififc Rim the other night and thought one of those 400 foot robots could come in handy for shopping and the like any chance of making me one of them?

Lee Roberts
23-04-2018, 07:06 PM
Here is an idea for your lathe to-do list's:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hq1-cRtu1ZM

A pen type die grinder or dremel like tool may be less involved for smaller stuff, chuck/collet size being the issue.

Zeeflyboy
25-04-2018, 10:59 PM
Oh that's pretty neat! I can add it to the long list of projects lol...

Enough of this manual lathe nonsense, today I fired up the CNC at last and made the top plate for the new Z-axis.

First fixture:

https://i.imgur.com/NVVbHTw.jpg


Roughing pass (6mm 3 flute roughing bit, 8mm depth of cut with 1mm axial engagement, 12,000rpm and 1,500mm/min

https://i.imgur.com/ifVAwEy.jpg


Finished top side (3 flute, full depth pass 16mm skimming 0.1mm off each pass with a repeat finish pass, 12,000rpm 1000mm/min and a chamfer pass):

https://i.imgur.com/Wb4Vv42.jpg


Then I drilled two holes for 6mm dowels to align with machine axis, and probed for zero:

https://i.imgur.com/ecRK6ND.jpg


Backside ops done:

https://i.imgur.com/LSAPzoq.jpg


Finished part with seals and bearing:

https://i.imgur.com/JEquvfQ.jpg

Zeeflyboy
26-04-2018, 06:34 PM
Guys, has anyone got any experience or knowledge of these spindles I stumbled across?

They are 80mm body and 220v/2.2kw/400hz so should be a straight drop in/drop out replacement (ideal as it makes it relatively easy to switch to 24,000rpm spindle if needed for composites etc). The difference is that they are 1,500-12,000rpm which would be a lot more suitable RPM range for milling plastics, foams, metals etc and opens up the potential to look at thread mills, reamers and makes drilling more viable.

Only downside is they are significantly more expensive than the 24,000rpm garden variety... which makes it less appealing to take a punt!

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Low-Speed-2-2Kw-D80mm-AC220V-drilling-Metal-spindle-motor-1500rpm-12000rpm-water-Cooled-metal-milling/32532549219.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.rut9B3

Desertboy
26-04-2018, 09:44 PM
Guys, has anyone got any experience or knowledge of these spindles I stumbled across?

They are 80mm body and 220v/2.2kw/400hz so should be a straight drop in/drop out replacement (ideal as it makes it relatively easy to switch to 24,000rpm spindle if needed for composites etc). The difference is that they are 1,500-12,000rpm which would be a lot more suitable RPM range for milling plastics, foams, metals etc and opens up the potential to look at thread mills, reamers and makes drilling more viable.

Only downside is they are significantly more expensive than the 24,000rpm garden variety... which makes it less appealing to take a punt!

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Low-Speed-2-2Kw-D80mm-AC220V-drilling-Metal-spindle-motor-1500rpm-12000rpm-water-Cooled-metal-milling/32532549219.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.rut9B3

Good find

Zeeflyboy
27-04-2018, 08:47 PM
Managed to sneak in a little play time after work today... made the bottom plate for the Z-axis

https://i.imgur.com/PkSNzxY.jpg


Top side done:

https://i.imgur.com/3qYbzjx.jpg


Rear side - just used 3 dowel pins to locate it this time

https://i.imgur.com/0pvUyI6.jpg


Finished part:

https://i.imgur.com/vo7SdsD.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9NQic7f.jpg


Next up will be the back plate, hopefully have time to do that tomorrow after work.

I also re-designed the top bearing support plate as per the advice of routercnc to allow one of the bearings to float into place. For now I've just 3D printed the bearing float plate... Thought it was interesting as I'm using my favourite material for actual functional parts - a PETG Carbon fibre infused filament which is brilliant to work with. Very stiff and strong (as the actress said to the bishop!) and very dimensionally stable too. Finishes nicely with a little light sanding too.

https://i.imgur.com/BUB0kKS.png

https://i.imgur.com/O7JCSB8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/VT98DTI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2pWWiGa.jpg

TadasM
28-04-2018, 08:02 AM
Guys, has anyone got any experience or knowledge of these spindles I stumbled across?

They are 80mm body and 220v/2.2kw/400hz so should be a straight drop in/drop out replacement (ideal as it makes it relatively easy to switch to 24,000rpm spindle if needed for composites etc). The difference is that they are 1,500-12,000rpm which would be a lot more suitable RPM range for milling plastics, foams, metals etc and opens up the potential to look at thread mills, reamers and makes drilling more viable.

Only downside is they are significantly more expensive than the 24,000rpm garden variety... which makes it less appealing to take a punt!

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Low-Speed-2-2Kw-D80mm-AC220V-drilling-Metal-spindle-motor-1500rpm-12000rpm-water-Cooled-metal-milling/32532549219.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.rut9B3

Zeeflyboy, I'm also in search for new spindle and maybe this, permanent torque spindle, will look interesting for you too :)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-quality-HDK80-24Z-2-2-2-2Kw-AC220V-D80-ER20-Mould-Metal-water-cooled-spindle/2044806436.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.262.d7 v80G

p.s. great build !

Ollie78
01-05-2018, 01:07 AM
Wow. Just Wow.

This is next level stuff. I have just joined this forum and hope to build a machine myself. Your work is very inspiring.
I love the way it is coming together just like the renderings and the 3d printed gaskets are the icing on the cake.

Cant wait to see it in action.

Ollie

Muzzer
01-05-2018, 11:56 AM
How did you create the belt in your assembly? Fusion doesn't (yet) have the rather neat belt / chain create / mate function that you can find in the likes of Solidworks, so the only way I could see to have done it would be to model the locus of the belt and extrude it. Then use bitmap to create the text for that finishing touch! Finessing the belt length so that it ended up as a standard length must have been a bit of a fiddle and is one area where the SW belt / chain function is a real bonus.

Nice work!

Zeeflyboy
02-05-2018, 10:58 AM
Wow. Just Wow.

This is next level stuff. I have just joined this forum and hope to build a machine myself. Your work is very inspiring.
I love the way it is coming together just like the renderings and the 3d printed gaskets are the icing on the cake.

Cant wait to see it in action.

Ollie

Thanks, good luck with your build!


How did you create the belt in your assembly? Fusion doesn't (yet) have the rather neat belt / chain create / mate function that you can find in the likes of Solidworks, so the only way I could see to have done it would be to model the locus of the belt and extrude it. Then use bitmap to create the text for that finishing touch! Finessing the belt length so that it ended up as a standard length must have been a bit of a fiddle and is one area where the SW belt / chain function is a real bonus.

Nice work!

I used a belt calculator to work out the distance between locus for a standard length belt and then did it as you suggest. A belt/chain wizard would be a welcome addition to fusion for sure - might be worth putting in feature request (if it hasn't already been submitted)... my experience has been that they are very active on implementing requests that get sufficient interest.

Desertboy
02-05-2018, 11:16 AM
Thanks, good luck with your build!



I used a belt calculator to work out the distance between locus for a standard length belt and then did it as you suggest. A belt/chain wizard would be a welcome addition to fusion for sure - might be worth putting in feature request (if it hasn't already been submitted)... my experience has been that they are very active on implementing requests that get sufficient interest.

Seems more like an api plugin to me for the store, there's some cool plugins but can't remember if I saw a belt one.

Muzzer
02-05-2018, 12:27 PM
I used a belt calculator to work out the distance between locus for a standard length belt and then did it as you suggest. A belt/chain wizard would be a welcome addition to fusion for sure - might be worth putting in feature request (if it hasn't already been submitted)... my experience has been that they are very active on implementing requests that get sufficient interest.

I submitted it 2 years ago but obviously they are focusing on the core functionality first. https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-ideastation/drive-components-belts-amp-pulleys-or-chains-amp-sprockets/idc-p/7755765#M30496

The way Solidworks does it is really powerful and cool. Hopefully when the Fusion team turn their thoughts to it, they will make a good job of it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=9&v=Xmyryo9kVlc

Zeeflyboy
02-05-2018, 10:00 PM
I added my vote and a new comment to do my bit ;)

Got the back plate for the Z-axis machined out today.

Most of the top side done, including second fixture work

https://i.imgur.com/8PQ8CRQ.jpg


Side clamps removed and attacking it with my big 10mm roughing bit (10mm Depth of cut, 1mm axial engagement, 9,600rpm, 2000mm/min)

https://i.imgur.com/XAMb2Ei.jpg


Top side machining done:

https://i.imgur.com/vlF0yKT.jpg


Again used dowels here to locate and align the work for the back side. 6mm roughing bit here hogging out the centre channel (7mm DoC, 1mm axial, 10,000rpm, 1500mm/min) followed by some tidying up and a final contour with a 3mm to get a tighter radius in the corners

https://i.imgur.com/UNqLgXV.jpg

Finished with some chamfers

https://i.imgur.com/2kjfer0.jpg


Still need to make a jig to drill the top and bottom to attach the end plates, but here's a quick semi-assembled pic:

https://i.imgur.com/6WwEW2n.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GnwK2bv.jpg

routercnc
02-05-2018, 10:52 PM
Nice work there Zeeflyboy. Starting to take shape and I really like those heavy chamfers.

Snapper
04-05-2018, 01:28 PM
I wouldn't hold your breath waiting for Autodesk to implement such a feature, there are some rather basic things people have been asking for for years (lathe back chamfer on part off, stick text engraving etc) that still haven't been done.

Great work by the way, love watching this machine come together.

Zeeflyboy
04-05-2018, 03:15 PM
Got some bits and bobs done

First up - I printed a drill jig for the back plate. Just wanted to show how nice the print was after I left the filament in a food drier for 12hrs... makes the prints come out perfectly! This is printed in the CF filled filament which is perhaps a bit fo a waste but it's the most dimensionally stable and strongest stuff I have.

https://i.imgur.com/nyHaFZR.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/VKdf4WD.jpg


Anyhoo, also done on the 3D printer I made some sealing plugs for the front plate which allows access to the m8 bolts that fasten it to the X-axis. I need access to these as being a sealed unit there would be no way to adjust tram without first loosening these bolts... Printed in the same red semi flexible Cheetah filament as the main seals and with a fully functional m12x1.75 thread right off the printer!

https://i.imgur.com/8mDrRCC.jpg


I also made a few other parts on the printer, the drill jig for the part I'm about to show you and also the sliding bearing plate you will see in the next pics. This is the internal floating bearing for the Z-axis ball screw and due to a lack of space I had to custom make this to fit within the narrow confines of the Z-axis. It has the ability to adjust so that alignment with the ball screw is perfect.

https://i.imgur.com/cpEtSo6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1ryih6F.jpg


Drill jig (could have done this on the CNC as the part is small enough but saves fitting the vice and any zeroing errors running the part :) )... I also had some bushings lying around from previous parts so was just a case of printing the jig.

https://i.imgur.com/mrMAs39.jpg


Finished part and floating bearing plate

https://i.imgur.com/yJuZrdF.jpg


Perfect fit:

https://i.imgur.com/TrffCoQ.jpg

Nickhofen
04-05-2018, 04:26 PM
Beautiful!!!

Zeeflyboy
04-05-2018, 06:34 PM
I wouldn't hold your breath waiting for Autodesk to implement such a feature, there are some rather basic things people have been asking for for years (lathe back chamfer on part off, stick text engraving etc) that still haven't been done.

Great work by the way, love watching this machine come together.

Cheers.

I certainly won't be holding my breath!

Just one final update for today with an assembled shot of the v2 Z-axis so far. Coke can for scale as I find the HGR25H carriages and 25mm rails make it look smaller than it is in pics when you are used to seeing 20mm.

https://i.imgur.com/KVq8Xy5.jpg

Not quite sure what will be done next.... either the side plates or the top counter bearing plate depending on what I can find in my aluminium stock pile. I think I'll need to make an order for more plate to complete the front plate and tramming plate.

Zeeflyboy
19-05-2018, 12:05 AM
Little bit more progress made during the week.

So first up I made a little extended collar for the ballscrew bearing mount. This is just to allow the pulley base to clear the top of the bearing mount.

https://i.imgur.com/o9vxHGt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xQkVcGD.jpg


Next up I printed off a set of jigs for the sides of the Z-axis. I also made some bushings in silver steel and experimented with hardening (heated up till cherry red then quenched) to try and get some nice long lasting bushings that I can use for multiple projects... seems to have worked well.

https://i.imgur.com/mRG6k78.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/vFhxaHy.jpg

Sides all drilled, tapped, deburred and quickly tickled with some sand paper to remove any high points (with the side plates mounted these edges serve as the reference edge for the carriages).

https://i.imgur.com/0QofcOa.jpg


Unfortunately my 3d printer is too small to make the side seals in once piece so I split them into two instead.

https://i.imgur.com/V4N5pgL.jpg


Next up was machining out the side plates from 5mm plate

https://i.imgur.com/wxLnT2P.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZtD23Sn.jpg


Machining the seal retaining slot on the back side. Out of interest I noticed Fusion has a new option on adaptive clearing which is "machine both ways" so I tried that out on this slot... basically it just climb mills one way then conventional mills the way back with a slightly lower axial engagement. Works nicely and means you aren't wasting time with a travel move where you have a lot of back and forth like this slot.

https://i.imgur.com/0JYx24X.jpg


Finished parts:

https://i.imgur.com/47NztPQ.jpg

Zeeflyboy
19-05-2018, 12:06 AM
Seals are a beautiful press fit into their slots:

https://i.imgur.com/UdH6QBl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Hnng0ee.jpg


All seals done and fitted:

https://i.imgur.com/UyoPDFL.jpg


I think next up will be the top counter bearing plate, then I'll move on to the face plate and tramming plate.

routercnc
19-05-2018, 06:34 AM
Nice work there. That 3D printer is proving to be very handy.

Nickhofen
19-05-2018, 07:24 AM
Jewlery...I can't wait to see it finish!!!

driftspin
19-05-2018, 01:58 PM
Art!! , that is what it is.

So ... do you dare use it? First scratch is gonna hurt bad on something as beautiful as this.


Grtz Bert.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

Wal
19-05-2018, 02:52 PM
So ... do you dare use it? First scratch is gonna hurt bad on something as beautiful as this.

That's why you ALWAYS use a hammer to put it together. Pre-empt the pain..!

Wal.

driftspin
19-05-2018, 07:35 PM
That's why you ALWAYS use a hammer to put it together. Pre-empt the pain..!

Wal.Hahaha best advice of the day ! :-)


Grtz. Bert


Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

Zeeflyboy
19-05-2018, 10:47 PM
Hah thanks guys. Either going to anodise or powder coat, both should keep it looking nice through some gentle abuse!

Little micro update (been busy barbecuing today!)

3D printed a mount for the homing switch magnet and fitted. To set the activation range I just hooked the switch up to 24v and moved things around until the LED switched off at the right place.

https://i.imgur.com/qf3hZgV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ORAlUWr.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/VK3sCoM.jpg

Zeeflyboy
20-05-2018, 10:19 PM
More work done today... Didn't have any suitable materials for the counter bearing plate so got cracking with some of the other stuff!

First up, 6mm spacer for the ball nut mount to make it reach the front plate:

https://i.imgur.com/vl4u5cu.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/0vJaVUA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/XjENf9X.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Gm9aicd.jpg


And then on to a big piece (so big it takes up most of my poor little X6's bed!) - the front mount plate

Externally clamped and all the interior parts done

https://i.imgur.com/PStZXgJ.jpg


external clamps removed and finished part:

https://i.imgur.com/rFPximR.jpg


Fitted along with the previously printed plugs. Other large hole will be for ball nut grease port which I'm currently working out the finer details of.

https://i.imgur.com/EP2cjwe.jpg


Full up:

https://i.imgur.com/zoTq8UZ.jpg


Full down:

https://i.imgur.com/0nuvtCl.jpg

Zeeflyboy
24-05-2018, 03:20 PM
Decided to re-vist my original plans for a belt tensioning system.

I whipped up this design

https://i.imgur.com/ZXGArBm.png


And then set about making it. The idler I made from alu tubing which I turned down and bored out for the bearing pockets.

https://i.imgur.com/pdZFrZF.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SUILdza.jpg


I also needed to make the upright piece which the whole assembly rolls around. Turned this from silver steel:

https://i.imgur.com/NrbJTbU.jpg


Final part that needed turning was the little rotating piece through which the threaded rod will go... Made a small jig to make sure I drilled it centrally, which could also then be flipped and guide the tap straight through.

https://i.imgur.com/vwUnAIL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nwabCHU.jpg


I decided to try 3D printing the main parts in the CF composite material I use for functional parts and I must admit I was amazed at just how strong it's come out. I upped the infill percentage and used extra perimeters to beef up the part even more and the result feels like it could survive being run over by a truck... my backup plan was to make the frame parts from alu plate but it won't be needed.

Even more surprising is that I modelled the M6 thread in the bearing tube mating part and it printed fully functional... didn't even need to run a tap through it. That's the smallest thread I've tried printing so far and I'm suitably impressed :)


Final bunch of parts:

https://i.imgur.com/gDYZxJ9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Ed7AndP.jpg


And test fitting

Untensioned:

https://i.imgur.com/qHPo4yF.jpg


Tensioned (can't fully tension for two reasons - screw thread isn't long enough, and the smaller pulley pulls in towards the bigger one without the top bearing counter plate.... but it gets the gist across):

https://i.imgur.com/0yhamwg.jpg


Pretty chuffed with that little bit of design I have to say... worked out nicely. Still need to make a knurled knob and order some m6 threaded rod to make the proper tensioner adjustment, and I also need to make the little collar that goes on the m5 standoff to help capture the rod end.

routercnc
24-05-2018, 08:10 PM
It is very OTT but you look like you are having fun so go for it!

How about 3D printing the adjuster knob - put an internal thread in it and secure with a lock/jam nut.

Zeeflyboy
24-05-2018, 08:32 PM
It is very OTT but you look like you are having fun so go for it!

How about 3D printing the adjuster knob - put an internal thread in it and secure with a lock/jam nut.

A lot of what I do in life could be described as OTT lol...

I've done 3D printed knobs before, in fact the 3D printer is rocking one. Not quite as pretty as a nice knurled alu one though.

Chaz
25-05-2018, 07:50 AM
A lot of what I do in life could be described as OTT lol...

I've done 3D printed knobs before, in fact the 3D printer is rocking one. Not quite as pretty as a nice knurled alu one though.

Very nice stuff, wish I had such a creative mind.

Snapper
25-05-2018, 11:05 AM
A lot of what I do in life could be described as OTT lol...

I've done 3D printed knobs before, in fact the 3D printer is rocking one. Not quite as pretty as a nice knurled alu one though.

Its a very nice knurl you pulled off on the last one, how many goes did that take to get right? :encouragement:

AVF
25-05-2018, 11:57 AM
This is all looking very nice and a really wonderful build!
Would you care to share the Fusion files of the Z-axis only perhaps...? :-)
Cheers - Ard

Nickhofen
25-05-2018, 03:18 PM
Zeeflyboy this Z axis is a masterpiece, what is the travel of it?

Zeeflyboy
25-05-2018, 03:31 PM
Cheers :)

It has a total travel of 178mm

AVF - not yet, but I may make files available later.

Zeeflyboy
25-05-2018, 03:33 PM
Its a very nice knurl you pulled off on the last one, how many goes did that take to get right? :encouragement:

Just the one attempt actually! I did use a knurl calculator to arrive at a suitable diameter for the knob, so that probably helped a little. I'd actually like a coarser Knurl, need to buy some 1mm wheels for my knurling device.

Zeeflyboy
29-05-2018, 04:51 PM
Sorted out the ball nut greasing arrangement... So obviously I didn't fancy stripping down the whole thing every time the ball screw needed a bit of grease. I came up with this solution:

Made a small hex piece with an M6 thread on the lathe

https://i.imgur.com/QxvP3V4.jpg


3D printed a plug with m20x1 thread (to match the hole in the face plate) in my new PA-CF nylon/carbon fibre material and added a 4mm hose barb.

https://i.imgur.com/uR31hY1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bYdYmjU.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/V3garys.jpg


Added a hose barb and 90 degree connector to the ball nut (locked in with hydraulic sealant to the position required) and a silicone hose to connect the two pieces. This picture gives an idea of how the arrangement works:

https://i.imgur.com/ng7OG1S.jpg


And done:

https://i.imgur.com/h0WkuIK.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Tk8RAUG.jpg

Nr1madman
29-05-2018, 05:40 PM
Im envious!
Looks real nice

Skickat frŚn min SM-G955F via Tapatalk

Zeeflyboy
30-05-2018, 10:49 PM
Had a productive day or two... apart from some minor things left to do, the Z-axis is now completed.

First up I made the top counter bearing plate. I had planned this to be 10mm but I only had 12mm and rather than skim it down I decided to just roll with the 12mm instead so tweaked the design.

https://i.imgur.com/XhCn6sf.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/vjtstI7.jpg


Flipped and rear chamfer

https://i.imgur.com/BHiT6YU.jpg


I also made another knurled knob on the lathe, this time for the tension adjust. Same process as last time so I won't show it again

https://i.imgur.com/QEwNXYr.jpg


While cutting the tramming plate I had a bit of a booboo - I was trying out a full 16mm depth of cut with 0.8mm axial engagement, which was actually working ok until it turns out the stock wasn't perfectly squared up to the bed and on the far side it started taking much more than 0.8mm... caught it just as it came to a stop all gummed up. Need to give it a bath in some Lye to de-gunk it.

https://i.imgur.com/J3p8eg0.jpg

Unfortunately this mishap resulted in some machining error which I didn't pick up on until afterwards as I thought I hit feed hold in time. Thankfully nothing too serious - the holes that mount the spindle are just about 0.3mm off from the rest in X - everything else is fine so I'm not going to re-do.

So with that tramming plate done, the Z-axis is now more or less complete. I just need to shorten and tidy up the ball screw extension piece, make a small collar for the tensioner and then at some point I need to apply a finish. I'm currently leaning towards sandblasting and then anodising for a nice matt anodised finish.

Anyway, here are some assembled shots... everything is nice and smooth to turn by hand with no binding. The tramming adjustment works especially nicely now that I extended the shoulder bolt around which it pivots and the shoulder bolt that goes through the eccentric nut into the plate behind.

https://i.imgur.com/NG6kjE5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/utYZweA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uv5eBjU.jpg


And here is one for reference to the current machine. This thing is huge! Gonna need a bigger boat...

https://i.imgur.com/kkRYGl9.jpg

RobC
01-06-2018, 09:32 PM
Honestly your work astounds me, I always enjoy every night clicking through to see if you have updated any further work! I would love to purchase the part files or supply the material and pay you to make them if and when you may consider such!

Zeeflyboy
11-06-2018, 10:49 PM
Thanks Rob

Definitely want to make sure everything works well before doing anything on the plans/files front. Might turn out as a bag of excrement!

I've been busy re-working the X-Axis design to accommodate the larger Z-axis unit and to give me 420mm on travel in much the same footprint. If I had left it as is, I would have lost an unacceptable amount of travel due to the wider Z. To do this I moved the motor to the back plate and added a belt drive setup, which actually was another motivation for the re-design as it will make it much easier to accommodate an upgrade to servos further down the line if I decide I want to go that route. The old design is very much limited to nema 23 sized motors and it seems most servos come in at nema 24 as a minimum.

I will need to extend the Main frame in width the accommodate this new design, but that should be relatively straight forward and just a case of getting some wider extrusions and doing some adjustments to the front plates.

Still needs a little fleshing out but this is the current direction. Similar setup to the Z-axis really as that seems to have worked out nicely. For reference this is now using the extended HGH25HA carriages (I have the space now with the wider Z so why not) and longer HGR20 rails, both of which I already have in hand. Still using a 20mm tooling plate to mount the rails, which then attaches to a 200x40mm extrusion, in turn sandwiched by a 12mm rear plate.

https://i.imgur.com/QVG2WGv.png

https://i.imgur.com/llaY7QZ.png

I still have an issue here though in that these pieces are too big for my current machine, so either I try to be clever and do them each in two separate operations moving them along the bed and dowel pins to relocate, or I just outsource the two big plates which is all I need get up and running, then cut the last plates when the machine is moving. Decisions decisions.

In other news I've started accumulating equipment and doing more research on LCD anodising, which is most appealing to me given the apparent success of it in the DIY setting plus the relatively low concentration of sulphuric acid required. I want to do a proper job though so I'm going a bit beyond the typical DIY lead cathodes in a bucket with a car battery type deal, but that means more expense and complication so I'm trying to do my diligent research.

I ordered this PSU which is capable of constant current (hoping to use it for other stuff too so thought might as well get a decentish one) here (https://www.reichelt.de/Laboratory-Power-Supplies/HCS-3400-USB/3/index.html?ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=132415&GROUPID=4952&artnr=HCS+3400+USB&trstct=pol_14)

And I really wanted to achieve thorough agitation but without the splatter that enthusiastic aeration brings, so I also ordered two of these corrosion resistant magnetic drive pumps. here (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-12V-Mirco-Self-priming-water-pump-Mini-diaphragm-pump-Low-noise-Corrosion-proof-50W-Flow/1135202832.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6d944c4dkifm ua)

I intend to use both, with the 4L/min flow each I should see around 8L per minute which will cycle the bath (currently looking at about 60L) in a little under 8 minutes. They are going to pull double duty too as I will be building a couple of heat exchangers for them to pump the solution through in order to try to have some control over the temperature of the bath.

Everyone seems to say about how having a serious amount of DI water is important for really thorough rinsing, so I also ordered a 6 stage Reverse osmosis system and will be adding a DI resin filter at the end to replace the re-mineralisation stage.

Other than that from Caswell I ordered some Grey NLN and Red Bordeaux dye, plus some aluminium degreaser, aluminium oxide and smut remover, and some nickel acetate sealer.

Still got some things left to buy when some spare cash rolls round before I can get cracking with the anodising, but excited to give it a go. Needless to say there will be a few test parts first before committing any important machined parts to the process.

Zeeflyboy
05-09-2018, 03:33 PM
Hi guys,

Sorry there hasn't been any progress recently - a general mix between work ramping up for the summer, enjoying the nice weather, with a dash of laziness and a sprinkle of lack of disposable income.

Anyway, thought I'd share what little I have managed to do - the pump and agitation setup for my anodising tub. As mentioned previously I wanted something a little more reliable than bubbles and something that would reduce fumes/slpashing/condensation.

So I scrapped the two pumps I originally ordered, as after disassembling them I found that they have metal springs for the diaphragm despite being labelled as suitable for corrosives. Shame. Ended up ordering a big proper mains powered chemical pump instead which is designed specifically for this sort of stuff.

First up since the pump isn't self priming and I want to be able to put a sealed lid on the container when not in use I needed to make some bulkheads for the "tank" (the tank is a polypropylene storage container). I managed to find some fibre re-inforced polypropylene filament for the 3D printer which is perfect for making water tight sulphuric acid proof fittings.... albeit a slight PITA to print with due to warping. This is the end result, and it accepts a large Viton O-ring which then seals the fitting against the tank wall. I then 3D printed the "nut" out of ABS since it's less of a pain in the arse than the polypropylene filament and isn't exposed to the bath.

https://i.imgur.com/azNAC2P.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kVoZnie.jpg

With pump (attached by pure EPDM tubing)

https://i.imgur.com/BK7wQje.jpg


Leak tested for a few days and nothing to see. Happy times...


I had also read a paper on using eductors in anodising tubs which sounded interesting - for those that don't know they basically work on the principle of flow multiplication... a high speed jet is shot out the nozzle and induces a flow through the cone to improve mixing. I couldn't really find any decently designed ones that were small enough for my purposes so I designed some myself. Again 3D printed these from the Polypropylene with a G1/4 mounting thread. I also needed something to hold them at the right angles for a good spread and designed a block for them to screw into.

https://i.imgur.com/T11peaQ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/QGm7EBJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/idD928Z.jpg


And then connected them up with 12mm PVC tubing which is a tight push fit.


https://i.imgur.com/z2cDny0.jpg

To test whether this work achieved anything at all I figured it would be interesting to put some food dye into the tub and see how effectively the liquid is being circulated and mixed. Pretty happy with the result! I like the second view in the video, looks cool and you can see the eductors doing their thing quite nicely.


https://youtu.be/XsndPOM06Fs


Got a bit more work to do on getting a nice setup for the cathodes and bus bar, but shouldn't be too long now until I can try some anodising.

Chaz
05-09-2018, 05:56 PM
Nice, Ive just got my old 3D printer going for some prototypes but its a bit long in the tooth and not worth upgrading. What printer are you using? Build volume?

Nickhofen
05-09-2018, 07:38 PM
Great work!

Zeeflyboy
05-09-2018, 10:43 PM
Thanks - hopefully the effort will be worth it and I can get some good consistent anodising results.

The 3D printer I use is my old trusty Makergear M2. I think they have an M3 out these days but itís been an absolute workhorse over the last 6 or 7 years.... work area is 200x250x200mm

Iíve always meant to replace it with a bigger badder printer (ideally self designed) one day but just havenít found an overwhelming need as it works great. I have changed over to a duet WiFi from the old Rambo board, and it rocks an e3d v6 and Titan for hotend/extruder and I like to use printbite as a build surface, but other than that itís remarkably unmodified.

routercnc
06-09-2018, 07:02 PM
Nice work Zeeflyboy. That food dye test bodes well.
Iíve gone for eau naturelle finish but will be following with interest.

Zeeflyboy
17-09-2018, 08:31 PM
Got a few hours to play this afternoon at long last!

Whipped up a little design out of some scrap plywood to finish off the anodising tank and cathode/anode setup.

https://i.imgur.com/YB2jOF3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wtRUkWJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gkdPcR3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hnGRkCR.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/X4e31gM.jpg


Off on holiday now, so that little bit of work didn't last long.

jarjar
01-10-2018, 07:07 PM
Awesome work and project Zeeflyboy!

Do you mind sharing some details about your Z axis? For example, what are its overall dimensions and what's the length of its rails and travel?


Still needs a little fleshing out but this is the current direction. Similar setup to the Z-axis really as that seems to have worked out nicely. For reference this is now using the extended HGH25HA carriages (I have the space now with the wider Z so why not) and longer HGR20 rails, both of which I already have in hand.

25 rails or HGH20HA carriages?

Zeeflyboy
05-10-2018, 08:03 PM
Sorry, mis-typed there. The gantry is using HGH20HA carriages and HGR20 rails.

Travel is 178mm and the other dimensions I will grab for you later when I get a chance.

Got some time to play today and try my first ever bit of anodising!

First up I got to try out my new toy on the lathe to thread some titanium rod.

https://i.imgur.com/u9OdUJF.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PPmP9JV.jpg


Then I thought for a first test I'd try one of the knobs. Cleaned, degreased, De-oxide and desmut bath, then into the anodising tub preheated to 20 degrees c and using 6amps per square ft for 2 hours.

The part after degreasing:

https://i.imgur.com/s2Sn34e.jpg


The agitation system I'm happy with... as you can see from the pic the surface is rippling but no bubbles and splashing which is what I was trying to avoid with air agitation, but no bubbles building up on the part and good mixing.

https://i.imgur.com/XV1eidj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FBLjbSV.jpg


fresh out the anodising tub:

https://i.imgur.com/sCzDeVm.jpg


Dyed using caswell bordeaux red and sealed using boiling water with nickel acetate sealant:

https://i.imgur.com/40pSCsz.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/vSvyEaB.jpg


Finished part (well, I might laser etch the top for fun). Very happy especially considering this was the first run.

https://i.imgur.com/IHoVXuW.jpg

Zeeflyboy
05-10-2018, 10:37 PM
Just wanted to prove to myself it wasn't beginner's luck so quickly did up the second knob too... this is the other end of the rod that I cut to m4 thread. My plan is to have various threads cut on the ends of 6mm titanium rod and some 90 degree angled pieces to allow me to jig up various parts together to do batches of parts since it's quite a long process using the LCD method (2hrs just for the anodise bath, let alone the prep work!).


Anyway, second part came out well too:

https://i.imgur.com/Mk5dtGg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cWMjwoD.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/f99yWlw.jpg

Zeeflyboy
06-10-2018, 10:00 PM
So moment of truth - moved on to a larger part and the eco-cast tooling plate. Wasn't sure how well it would anodise given that I don't really know what the alloy is (I believe some sort of 5000 series?) so easiest way to find out... Try!

I thought I would offer up the tramming plate as a sacrificial lamb to the anodising gods and keep my fingers crossed (don't have time waste on test pieces!).

Happy to say it came out way better than I could have hoped. The pics don't really do the colour justice - it's a nice metallic looking deep red and it's got a light brushed effect from the scotch pads I used in the prep... perhaps when I can take some daylight pics it might look better.

Here it is getting some little fun details lasered on with the wife's laser

https://i.imgur.com/iClNqKj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/evYLmDZ.jpg


Fitted (I'm one bolt short dammit!):

https://i.imgur.com/ZMlaotN.jpg

Chaz
07-10-2018, 12:20 AM
Superb workmanship.

Nickhofen
07-10-2018, 10:36 AM
Jaw fall!!!
Where did you purchase the anodizing kit from?

Zeeflyboy
07-10-2018, 01:07 PM
Didn't buy a kit - it's all home-brew I'm afraid... I can perhaps do a more detailed post on all the equipment/stages if there is interest?

Problem in the UK is that they have now made it pretty much impossible to buy or possess battery acid/sulphuric acid without a special license, so if anything happens to my anodising solution I'm a bit stuffed (thankfully I bought and mixed my bath before the ban). It would be legal to sell it in concentrations less than 15% which is still more than needed for the LCD process I'm using... but I haven't seen anyone doing that yet. I have seen some people having good success using Sodium Bisulphate (NaHSO4) which is readily available as a pool PH adjuster, but there is much less info out there. In theory it should be similar to sulphuric acid anodising (it's sulphuric acid + a sodium base) but I have no idea if there is any downside to eg the durability of the coating. It is something I may have to experiment with at some point to ensure I can keep anodising for a long time!

Nickhofen
07-10-2018, 02:57 PM
Didn't buy a kit - it's all home-brew I'm afraid... I can perhaps do a more detailed post on all the equipment/stages if there is interest?

I am interesting,lol!
If you have the patience and time of course!

Zeeflyboy
07-10-2018, 08:52 PM
Ok, I'll try and do a more detailed dive at some point.

So something something no time for test parts? lol.

I done gone goofed - anodised the bearing top plate today trying the other dye.... it was meant to come out a nice dark gunmetal grey but it is actually as black as the night. I left it in the dye bath 10 mins like with the red dye, which clearly was far too long.

Wife told me it looks good that way and I should just do the whole thing red/black. What do you guys think?

Brushed finish with purple scotch pads.

https://i.imgur.com/6pQsMCc.jpg


Bubble bubble

https://i.imgur.com/07ioekM.jpg


That ain't grey....

https://i.imgur.com/WgrLxBa.jpg


Fitted pics - what do you think? Just go for all black?

https://i.imgur.com/u34W2h6.jpg

JOGARA
08-10-2018, 01:32 AM
Black and red looks dope.

Nickhofen
08-10-2018, 08:23 AM
Looks good to me!
24897

Zeeflyboy
08-10-2018, 02:31 PM
Yeah it does look good and is growing on me. Saw it in the daylight today and it does look nice...

Next time I get a chance to play I will anodise a scrap piece to 0.6 mil and see how that looks, I suspect at 1mil the dye colour is just too strong and causing the blackness but the only way to be sure is to try!

Zeeflyboy
08-10-2018, 04:01 PM
Oh and speaking of daylight, I got a better picture that is more representative of how the red looks in person - you can sort of see the deep metallic sheen here... must say I love the colour.

https://i.imgur.com/pKLc4B1.jpg

Nickhofen
08-10-2018, 05:03 PM
Ferrari red! : )

AlexDoran
18-10-2018, 02:10 PM
Fantastic