Newbie looking at 6040 (China CNC) for polypropylene 15mm sheet

[JOGARA]

The only way I can think of doing it is to get a bit of 15mm and have my part sit in it.
Then when the vice clamps down, the slight bend in the aluminum locks that part in place. I am talking a tiny tolerance that will not bend enough to cause problems, but enough to grip onto the part.

I'd model it up but my laptop has crapped out on me. Thanks, Windows.


Also, looking to add a solenoid valve to the machine to turn the air on and off.
Fed up with having to reach in and turn it on and off. That and I run the machine and leave it for a bit. If it errors our or finishes the op before Ig et back, would rather it switch off the air.
12v is what the X6-2200L uses on control board right?

[JOGARA]

Here is my idea.

Block with the case silhouette cut out of it. When the vice clamps down there should be a slight bend in the block resulting in it clamping the part.

https://s10.postimg.org/vgyrmgu95/image.png (https://postimg.org/image/7pze4cu1x/)

https://s10.postimg.org/zdc3igmyh/image.png (https://postimg.org/image/ljnqteud1/)

[Zeeflyboy]

Still relying on your vice...

Make that piece (except minus those channels you added to allow it to flex inwards) out of something nice and sturdy - either alu or something like SRBP. Add a couple of threaded holes either side to allow clamps to hold it externally, and maybe two threaded holes internally underneath those cut outs. I would also add a zero reference hole (the probe works better determining zero from a hole probe than from an open edge probe), though I would ream it rather than just drill/mill it.

That then allows you to clamp internally with just a screw and spacer, run your external ops, then switch over to clamping externally with screws and a clamp piece to run your internal ops. Only takes a minute to undo two screws and screw in the other set for switching from internal to external.

depending on what you are doing operations wise, you can also consider the external clamping from both the ends and the sides to allow you to run different operations with external clamping but it doesn't sound like you'll need to.

[JOGARA]

I am tempted just to buy a decent machine vice and do it properly..

I think it is obvious that I need a better one anyway when I am doing my first op.
I got to make this easier as I have 30-50 cases to make of each type.

The X6-2200L has 140mm height between the floor and the gantry.
Minus ~5mm for a spoilplate/wonky correction.
Leaves me with 135mm.


Been looking at this, http://www.ymttooling.co.uk/tuscan-single-station-machine-vices/12-tuscan-ssv-150-single-station-machine-vice.html
117.5mm to the top of the jaws.
Even if I was to hold parts at the top of the jaws, that is 17.5mm clearance.
The reason I like this vice is that I could probably make the soft jaws really easily.
The lower height ones I have seen all have the triangle jaws which I can't manufacture.
They do sell soft jaws for this but they are £86...

[m_c]

This style of vice is lower - https://www.cutwel.co.uk/work-holding/machine-vices/gerardi-standard-series-machine-vices
However I've still to find more reasonably priced version.

[JOGARA]

This style of vice is lower - https://www.cutwel.co.uk/work-holding/machine-vices/gerardi-standard-series-machine-vices
However I've still to find more reasonably priced version.

I checked them out as like you say they are lower. But they are costly and I can't make my own soft jaws for them

[m_c]

It seems to the ideal vice for what I'd like, but I'm holding of in the hope Cutwel have a promo on them at some point, or until I find something similar in a 5-6" jaw version.

You can make anything with the right tools ;-)

[JAZZCNC]

It seems to the ideal vice for what I'd like, but I'm holding of in the hope Cutwel have a promo on them at some point

Give Cutwell a ring they will give you good deal. (ask for Harriot Dootson)

[Snapper]

Cutwel had the Gerardi vices on offer in December, I got one. Wish I'd got two. Or thee. Or four :sulkiness:

You can set the Gerardi vice up how you want, it doesn't need to have the angle jaws, you can get them with flat jaws, serrated jaws or whatever you want. It's a modular vice and there's a whole tonne of accesories for them. You've still got the issue of the vice bending your work, and in the case of the Gerardi the angle jaws would cause it to bend quite badly (the angle is there to add downforce for pulling the work down to ensure it clamps true repeatedly).

A dedicated fixture really is the way to go here IMO.

[JOGARA]

What model of those extrusion channel nuts do I need for this X6-2200L?

[Snapper]

What model of those extrusion channel nuts do I need for this X6-2200L?

I can't remember, I had a new solid bed made for mine, I think they were 8mm. Get m6 or even m5 if you like. KJN sell them, but they charge an arm and a leg for delivery if you're not nearby.

[JOGARA]

Ordered that vice and a new plate for leveling it.

https://s10.postimg.org/k2tg2g83t/Capture.png (https://postimg.org/image/3rtc64vlx/)
Just saw this on FaceBook. No idea why I haven't seen this idea posted around before. Would have saved hours.
Will be testing it with this new vice.

Wait. Could have just printed a holder for the part and mounted it onto the base of the cnc machine....
Well at least the new vice will be a good paper weight...




I can't remember, I had a new solid bed made for mine, I think they were 8mm. Get m6 or even m5 if you like. KJN sell them, but they charge an arm and a leg for delivery if you're not nearby.

Thanks.
I have emailed them to see if they can confirm what size.
The gap at the top is 8.5mm and the OD of the threads is 7mm.
Can't pull them out atm as the machine is running.

[m_c]

You do realise those MarkForged jaws aren't plastic?
MarkForged produce carbon fiber and metal 3D printers.


I never seen the Gerardi vice offer :-/
I'll give Cutwel a call once I'm feeling a bit more flush, as I could really do with behaving for a couple months to let finances recover from last years expenses.

[JOGARA]

You do realise those MarkForged jaws aren't plastic?
MarkForged produce carbon fiber and metal 3D printers.


I never seen the Gerardi vice offer :-/
I'll give Cutwel a call once I'm feeling a bit more flush, as I could really do with behaving for a couple months to let finances recover from last years expenses.


I print PLA 'Carbon fiber' xD

I don't actually mean to use them, just test fit before making aluminium ones..
But even so, would be fine if it was a large block that you sit the part in for chamfer operation?

[m_c]

I would think so for chamfering.

I'm not sure I'd trust them for anything involving much higher cutting forces though, but there is only way to find out..

[JOGARA]

I would think so for chamfering.

I'm not sure I'd trust them for anything involving much higher cutting forces though, but there is only way to find out..


Might give it a go. Would make a nice little YouTube video.

[JOGARA]

Bit of Googlering and a few people are saying that it is M8 that one wants.

Yea shipping on KJN.


RS does some extrusion stuff though, these look about right?
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/connecting-components/3900379/

[Snapper]

Bit of Googlering and a few people are saying that it is M8 that one wants.

Yea shipping on KJN.


RS does some extrusion stuff though, these look about right?
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/connecting-components/3900379/

You don't want m8. You will constantly be fighting to get the bolts through the slots and threaded in the nuts and there is absolutely no need for that much clamping force. M4 or m5 will be just as good, I used m6 because I have a tonne of m6 fixings in all sizes which is important. If you use rs the ones linked or these are the ones you want but not in m8.

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/connecting-components/3900256/

You also don't want to be thinking about using anything 3D printed if accuracy and repeatability is what you're after.

[Snapper]

Just a thought here which I should have thought of sooner. You are aware of the sheer weight of a proper machine vice? I don't think the flimsy hollow extruded aluminium table that comes on the OMIO will give you much improved results. The bed will dip and probably bounce around like a trampoline. Think about that and try some tests before you actually use the vice and can no longer return it.

[JOGARA]

Just a thought here which I should have thought of sooner. You are aware of the sheer weight of a proper machine vice? I don't think the flimsy hollow extruded aluminium table that comes on the OMIO will give you much improved results. The bed will dip and probably bounce around like a trampoline. Think about that and try some tests before you actually use the vice and can no longer return it.

Had that thought to. Trying to have it close to the vertical frame.
Should have just bought a Tormach...

[JOGARA]

Dam this thing is large. What have I done... xD


[edit]

My bed is out by 0.5mm in some places :/

I have worked out how I am going to do it. Ill remove the old vice and center this one and get it all nice and level.
To hold my parts, as the top of the vice is so high up, I can just cheap and use a big sab of 15mm as my part spoil 'board' to mount it on like before, but it will sit deeper into the vice with 40-50mm either side of it to prevent the spindle crshing into it.

[Snapper]

Dam this thing is large. What have I done... xD

Maybe puts into perspective how feeble the OMIO is in real terms and what you're wanting to make it do :courage:

Seriously, put some thought into a dedicated fixture and maybe save yourself a few hundred quid in the process. That big hefty unit is a firm sledgehammer to crack a walnut sort of job.

[JOGARA]

Plate done and vice mounted.

https://s10.postimg.org/3w38gls95/IMG_20180126_164413977.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/8uqqv4w1x/)

https://s10.postimg.org/eix1m1849/IMG_20180126_164456060_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/3w38glzyt/)

https://s10.postimg.org/cecokxjc9/IMG_20180127_171118256_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/97i51ayw5/)

https://s10.postimg.org/f8ftyegdl/IMG_20180127_171122827_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/4ydez5qhx/)

Yes, I could do with larger OD washers. These were all that Screwfix had and the Fixings store I normally go to is now miles away as we moved. That and he closes early xD
The M8 extrustion T-nuts from RS are fine. The bolt is hard to start threading into them but once you have it they really do help.
I think the M6 would have been a bit to small as that would have meant smaller washer too. These things are not going to move.

Z is 0.2mm high at one side of the vice on the Y-axis. X-axis there is no difference.
The Y-axis measurement was taken 350mm from the back of the vice to the front. Most of my parts are sub 100mm so that should be more than fine?

The vice is square or within measurable tolerance with the probe and dial indicator.



It also looks dank af... I get points for that no?

[Clive S]

Z is 0.2mm high at one side of the vice on the Y-axis. X-axis there is no difference.You could shim the vice level

[JOGARA]

You could shim the vice level

If I touch this again it will never be better xD

[JOGARA]

Dam it. I forgot that I have an operation where I need to stand the 105mm tall part on its end to mill out connector holes...

I do have a tiny vice that I could use for this. Might be able to fit it in behind the new vice, will be hard to reach but really is it my only option :/

[AndyGuid]

Great way to firm up the 6040 bed. . . . . . .Replace virtually the entire bed with an enormous vice!

I think it looks good. :smile:

[JOGARA]

How true is AW's "flat bar" stock?

Like do I need to order the size up of what I want to make it true over 150-200mm lenth of cut?

[jamesgates1000]

Best to buy bigger stock, hold on a few mm and do as much as you can on the first op then turn over and take the back off. The flat Ali bar won't be square so will cause more problems later if you don't square it up. Don't buy from aw either find a big metal supplier like smiths metal centres, it will work out a lot cheaper.

[JOGARA]

Best to buy bigger stock, hold on a few mm and do as much as you can on the first op then turn over and take the back off. The flat Ali bar won't be square so will cause more problems later if you don't square it up. Don't buy from aw either find a big metal supplier like smiths metal centres, it will work out a lot cheaper.

The stuff I was looing at would allow 5mm to be shaved off each side actually (made my part smaller).
Ill contact a few local companies. I have been using AW just for ease. But I have spent nearly £200 this past week which probably would have been a lot less locally xD

[JOGARA]

FUCKKKK
Just snapped the probe.

Anyone know if there are other probe ends that fit this one?
http://www.kurokesu.com/shop/precision_instruments/TPA2

[JOGARA]

Wow the local aluminium specialist wants 3-5x the price of AW xD

[JAZZCNC]

Wow the local aluminium specialist wants 3-5x the price of AW xD

Must be going to wrong suppliers because nearly any decent stockist will be cheaper than AW.
Give ASC metals a ring and ask if they deliver out your way.

http://www.ascmetals.com/

[JOGARA]

Must be going to wrong suppliers because nearly any decent stockist will be cheaper than AW.
Give ASC metals a ring and ask if they deliver out your way.

http://www.ascmetals.com/

Well, I just ordered 5 bits off this local company for some soft jaws.
Worked out cheaper at 5 quantity than AW.

Sent ASC an email too. Thanks for the sugetion.

[JOGARA]

Quotes so far for 15mm 5083 plate...




Company
150x105
112x108
Postage


AW
£5.43
£4.17
£12.95


Local Ali stock
£10.75
£9.25
Collection


ASC
£5.50
£3.50
£10


Brindley Metals
£6.80
£6.10
£20

[jamesgates1000]

6082 is better to machine.

Why don't you get 6" x 3/4" flat bar billeted and machine all over. It will work out cheaper.

[JOGARA]

6082 is better to machine.

Why don't you get 6" x 3/4" flat bar billeted and machine all over. It will work out cheaper.

idk

Always used "eco cast" from AW. Apparently, it is 5083 but ground?

Need to look into types of alloys. Hoping there is a decent YouTube video on it. Will check later.
Just finished a part with the new vice and it is looking amazing!
So much better than the drill press vice xD

I'd post photos but my phone died...

[JOGARA]

Here is the area of the part I was having problems with.
The chamfer would be uneven. Now it is perfect.

https://s10.postimg.org/sj7eq4qa1/IMG_20180201_165550549_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/9qvjmjtvp/)



This is my contraption.
https://s10.postimg.org/y7dph12c9/IMG_20180131_171143803_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/679lwqyvp/)

I know a few will laugh but it works really well....

Would prefer to machine the top in the vice and then flip in the vice.
I hate the super glue and the removal of it (which even on fresh plastic is scuffing up the surface finish)
Will try it once I have some soft jaws.


Also, I got yelled at for running this tiny cut without lubricant..
https://www.instagram.com/p/BenMhMghCqq/

[JOGARA]

Making some nice chips...

https://s10.postimg.org/vzrlhapbd/IMG_20180208_120853120_HDR.jpg

6mm, 25mm Flute. There is a bit of chatter when it goes Z- 10mm. But is holding up fine.
I used a 6mm carbide drill to pre drill the holes. Worked out really well. Only a hair width of gap between the endmill and the stock but never heard it cut anything when dropping into the hole.
The 6mm drill bit is pushing the machine a tad. Can see it flex at 0.2mm Feed per Revolution. Dropped it to 50% in Mach3 and it still flexed but very little.

[JOGARA]

New Styli just arrived. Trying out the Renishaw ones as they are distributed and possibly manufactured in the UK?
The cheapest M3 with 3mm ball is 21.2mm long (ball end being closer to 2.9mm diameter than 3mm, this typical?).

The shorter length actually works well for me as with the new vice installed, I don't have much Z height anymore.

https://www.renishaw.com/shop/Product.aspx?Product=A-5000-3553

£49 for 2 probes, shipped next day (I ordered past 5pm so same say shipped) and was sent first so arrived today.
Bit better than the 100 Euro the dude who makes these probes quoted me for a single Styli...


https://preview.ibb.co/k6Nuyx/IMG_20180208_151414040.jpg (https://ibb.co/cW755c)


[edit]
Shipped same day if ordered before 2:30 pm and they are made in the UK.
I have an image just above of the Styli but image host is playing up.

[JOGARA]

FFS it did it again.

Jogging the machine towards the part, and it carries on. The remote shut off so you can't stop it till it decides to stop its self after 2-3 seconds.

And today was going good till now...


https://s10.postimg.org/tukq2vtfd/IMG_20180208_143852742_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/63lckrt85/)

https://s10.postimg.org/hfxy2jmhl/IMG_20180208_144524828_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/lp2o4ppqt/)

https://s10.postimg.org/v9marl7d5/IMG_20180208_145031394_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/rd8yvlmdh/)

[Snapper]

FFS it did it again.

Jogging the machine towards the part, and it carries on. The remote shut off so you can't stop it till it decides to stop its self after 2-3 seconds.

And today was going good till now...


https://s10.postimg.org/tukq2vtfd/IMG_20180208_143852742_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/63lckrt85/)

https://s10.postimg.org/hfxy2jmhl/IMG_20180208_144524828_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/lp2o4ppqt/)

https://s10.postimg.org/v9marl7d5/IMG_20180208_145031394_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/rd8yvlmdh/)

Nice. Looks like the vice is giving you much better results so worth every penny if it gets the job done.

For chatter if you're using HSM toolpaths full depth and shallow step over try using a bigger 8mm or 10mm tool. 6mm drill should be absolutely fine, I have absolutely zero problems doing a 6.

[JOGARA]

Nice. Looks like the vice is giving you much better results so worth every penny if it gets the job done.

For chatter if you're using HSM toolpaths full depth and shallow step over try using a bigger 8mm or 10mm tool. 6mm drill should be absolutely fine, I have absolutely zero problems doing a 6.

Yea it was a sound investment.

While it sounded like there was chatter, I could not feel anything in the part. Though I did do a contour finishing pass which would have hidden it I guess.

As for HSM, idk if that is what I am doing or not. Not sure what classes HSM. Currently I am taking a DOC that is 50% the width of the tool with a 45% step over.


The only problem I am having ATM is doing a chamfer. For some reason it is quite uneven around the part.
Looks like the part when clamped is lifting a hair but even so, it is low on that corner.
Can only guess that it is not being perfectly probed or the vice is out by a hair?

[Snapper]

Yea it was a sound investment.

While it sounded like there was chatter, I could not feel anything in the part. Though I did do a contour finishing pass which would have hidden it I guess.

As for HSM, idk if that is what I am doing or not. Not sure what classes HSM. Currently I am taking a DOC that is 50% the width of the tool with a 45% step over.


The only problem I am having ATM is doing a chamfer. For some reason it is quite uneven around the part.
Looks like the part when clamped is lifting a hair but even so, it is low on that corner.
Can only guess that it is not being perfectly probed or the vice is out by a hair?

If you're using fusion, use the adaptive tool path for clearing metal out. I've cut down to 13mm Doc with my OMIO, between 0.3/0.4mm step over. You can go wider if you're cutting shallower. Better for tool life too as you're using more of the tool than just constantly using the tip.

Skim off the top of the part so it's all perpendicular to your gantry and spindle then your chamfers should be even. A light rub with sandpaper and a quick splash with polish to remove the tool marks and it will look much better than the grainy texture on the top of the extrusion as well.

[JOGARA]

If you're using fusion, use the adaptive tool path for clearing metal out. I've cut down to 13mm Doc with my OMIO, between 0.3/0.4mm step over. You can go wider if you're cutting shallower. Better for tool life too as you're using more of the tool than just constantly using the tip.

Skim off the top of the part so it's all perpendicular to your gantry and spindle then your chamfers should be even. A light rub with sandpaper and a quick splash with polish to remove the tool marks and it will look much better than the grainy texture on the top of the extrusion as well.

I'll give that a go tomorrow.
I am cutting 15mm deep so try 7.5mm at around .5-.6mm step over?

[Snapper]

I'll give that a go tomorrow.
I am cutting 15mm deep so try 7.5mm at around .5-.6mm step over?

Should be fine with that. Just play a bit and see what works. One tip, try and square your spindle to the vice, don't spend hours getting it as precise as humanly possible, just 2 minutes with a dual gauge to get it there or there abouts as it will shift out of alignment anyway within about 30 seconds. I do it before every job I want to look half decent. But if you've been jogging into things it's likely to have got knocked well off and that's an invitation for bad chatter.

Also make sure your spindle, collets and nut are squeaky clean for your finishing tools, and if your collet is old and been bashed about, get a new one. They're only tuppence on eBay.

[JOGARA]

8mm DOC, 0.5mm max stepover.
Cut fine, no noise, looks like I can go deeper.
Going to attempt 1mm. Can always pull it back.

This is much better than the 1hour+ than before. Down to 15mins now :)

The spindle is out but only by a hair. I can feel on the contour pass a slight line going around 2 sides of the part.
I have lowered the contour pass to take 4 depths instead of 2, this fixed that problem last time.


https://s10.postimg.org/ao4cv7eqh/IMG_20180210_153439790_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/d5g42gymt/)

https://s10.postimg.org/5cpgai0dl/IMG_20180210_153500237_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/h1tfygrc5/)

https://s10.postimg.org/ouk3qgkgp/IMG_20180210_153514144_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/ekhor7ul1/)



I am also getting this again on the contor. I have a 10mm finishing overlap. But I used default lead-in. I have upped that to 2mm. Hopefully that stops that.

https://s10.postimg.org/mfs86az5l/IMG_20180210_160207529_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/4pqjl9lkl/)

And yes, I forgot to go -0.1mm on the contor pass so there is a bur going around the bottom of the part. The roughing pass went -0.2mm, so I normally set -0.1mm for the finishing endmill.

[Snapper]

Are you using tooling plate to cut your parts from? That must be costing you a bloody fortune!

[Chaz]

Are you using tooling plate to cut your parts from? That must be costing you a bloody fortune!

Its not much more than standard Alu. The fact that its reasonably flat has many benefits.

[JOGARA]

Its not much more than standard Alu. The fact that its reasonably flat has many benefits.

This /\


Wanted to reduce my machining time so was faster to have the top and bottom already finished.
That being said, sometimes one side does have marks on it that won't work for a finsihed product.
Most of the time it is only on one side so I mill into that side while leaving the pretty face the to outer face that I see.

What I might be moving towards is bar stock so I can grab it in my vice and not have to glue my stock to a large plate.
Though I like maching the top and bottom at the same time as there are 4-5 tool changes.

If I have ATC then that would not be a problem...

[Snapper]

Its not much more than standard Alu. The fact that its reasonably flat has many benefits.

Maybe for little odd jobs but for production? At a guess it's about 50% dearer than just buying a bar isn't it?

[JOGARA]

Maybe for little odd jobs but for production? At a guess it's about 50% dearer than just buying a bar isn't it?

Going off AW, 5083 bar worked out more expensive than Plate.
Both cut to size.

This is AW though...

[JAZZCNC]

Maybe for little odd jobs but for production? At a guess it's about 50% dearer than just buying a bar isn't it?

Nowhere near 50% more like 10% if that and the savings in machine time can easily justify that. I rarely buy bar stock anymore

[JOGARA]

Keep getting this strange behaviour from the machine.

Just keeps stuttering, even when just going along a straight path on 1 axis it will judder a lot.
Does it every so often and most of the time I have to turn it off and on again.

Any ideas?

[JOGARA]

Keep getting this strange behaviour from the machine.

Just keeps stuttering, even when just going along a straight path on 1 axis it will judder a lot.
Does it every so often and most of the time I have to turn it off and on again.

Any ideas?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uAcR70B7vQtYLvs22

[m_c]

Sounds like chatter to me..

[spluppit]

Correct it is resonance. Either lower your rpm or up your feedrate.....a lot. This is where having a machine with no rigidity and physical weight plays a big part and restricts what you can do, there is only so far you can push a machine like that.

[JOGARA]

Just noticed my RPM was 12k not 6k xD

[JOGARA]

Not sure what I am doing wrong here.
It worked before but for some reason is not now...

I am cutting out some holes for some components in the rear of my case.
I am using a 4mm roughing bit to do this (the rough edges help in this case).

I have my part upright in the vice and around 10-15mm clearance luckily.

Here is what it is showing in F360.
https://s10.postimg.org/m3zacyebt/Capture.png (https://postimg.org/image/i7lygytc5/)

Here is the Gcode;



(T5 D=4. CR=0. - ZMIN=-3.5 - FLAT END MILL)
G90 G94 G91.1 G40 G49 G17
G21
G28 G91 Z0.
G90

(POCKET1)
M5
M9
T5 M6
S6000 M3
G54
M7
G0 X22.399 Y9.291
G43 Z15. H2
Z5.
G1 Z4.6 F100.
G3 X22.398 Y9.272 Z4.479 I1.9 J-0.031 F150.
X22.399 Y9.218 Z4.369 I1.9 J-0.013
X22.402 Y9.133 Z4.281 I1.9 J0.042
X22.413 Y9.026 Z4.223 I1.896 J0.127
X22.431 Y8.907 Z4.2 I1.886 J0.234
X26.165 Y9.613 Z3.992 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z3.783 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z3.575 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z3.366 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z3.158 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z2.949 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z2.741 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z2.532 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z2.324 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z2.116 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z1.907 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z1.699 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z1.49 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z1.282 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z1.073 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z0.865 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z0.656 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z0.448 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z0.24 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z0.031 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z-0.177 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z-0.386 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z-0.594 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z-0.803 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z-1.011 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z-1.22 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z-1.428 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z-1.636 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z-1.845 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z-2.053 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z-2.262 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z-2.47 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z-2.679 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z-2.887 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.165 Y9.613 Z-3.096 I1.867 J0.353
X22.431 Y8.907 Z-3.304 I-1.867 J-0.353
X26.198 Y9.26 Z-3.5 I1.867 J0.353
X23.293 I-1.453 J0.
G1 Y8.707 F360.
G3 X23.822 Y8.055 I0.666 J0.
G1 X23.864 Y8.046
G3 X24.136 I0.136 J0.652
G1 X24.178 Y8.055
G3 X24.707 Y8.707 I-0.136 J0.652
G1 Y9.301
G3 X24.217 Y9.943 I-0.666 J0.
X23.783 I-0.217 J-0.792
X23.293 Y9.301 I0.176 J-0.642
G1 Y9.26
G2 X22.603 Y8.329 I-0.972 J0.
G3 X22.326 Y7.204 I0.195 J-0.645
G1 X22.531 Y7.003
X23.165 Y6.667
X23.918 Y6.51
X24.082
X24.835 Y6.667
X25.461 Y6.998
X25.54 Y7.073
X25.965 Y7.49
X26.2 Y7.907
Y10.1
X25.999 Y10.47
X25.546 Y10.939
X24.968 Y11.285
X24.331 Y11.46
X23.669
X23.032 Y11.285
X22.454 Y10.939
X22.001 Y10.47
X21.8 Y10.1
Y7.907
X22.035 Y7.49
X22.326 Y7.204
G3 X22.426 Y7.132 Z-3.48 I0.28 J0.285
X22.531 Y7.097 Z-3.424 I0.18 J0.357
X22.619 Y7.09 Z-3.335 I0.075 J0.393
X22.676 Y7.096 Z-3.224 I-0.013 J0.4
X22.695 Y7.099 Z-3.1 I-0.07 J0.394
G0 Z15.

(POCKET1 2)
M7
G0 X24.892 Y21.659
Z15.
Z5.
G1 Z4.6 F100.
G3 X24.876 Y21.67 Z4.479 I-0.429 J-0.615 F150.
X24.83 Y21.698 Z4.369 I-0.414 J-0.625
X24.753 Y21.736 Z4.281 I-0.368 J-0.654
X24.651 Y21.77 Z4.223 I-0.291 J-0.691
X24.533 Y21.791 Z4.2 I-0.189 J-0.726
X24.391 Y20.298 Z4.118 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z4.035 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z3.953 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z3.871 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z3.789 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z3.706 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z3.624 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z3.542 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z3.459 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z3.377 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z3.295 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z3.213 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z3.13 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z3.048 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z2.966 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z2.884 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z2.801 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z2.719 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z2.637 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z2.554 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z2.472 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z2.39 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z2.308 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z2.225 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z2.143 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z2.061 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z1.978 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z1.896 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z1.814 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z1.732 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z1.649 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z1.567 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z1.485 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z1.402 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z1.32 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z1.238 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z1.156 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z1.073 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z0.991 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z0.909 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z0.827 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z0.744 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z0.662 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z0.58 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z0.497 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z0.415 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z0.333 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z0.251 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z0.168 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z0.086 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z0.004 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-0.079 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-0.161 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-0.243 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-0.325 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-0.408 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-0.49 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-0.572 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-0.655 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-0.737 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-0.819 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-0.901 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-0.984 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-1.066 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-1.148 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-1.23 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-1.313 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-1.395 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-1.477 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-1.56 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-1.642 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-1.724 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-1.806 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-1.889 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-1.971 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-2.053 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-2.136 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-2.218 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-2.3 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-2.382 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-2.465 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-2.547 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-2.629 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-2.712 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-2.794 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-2.876 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-2.958 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-3.041 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-3.123 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-3.205 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-3.287 I-0.071 J-0.747
X24.533 Y21.791 Z-3.37 I0.071 J0.747
X24.391 Y20.298 Z-3.452 I-0.071 J-0.747
X25.202 Y21.168 Z-3.5 I0.071 J0.747
G1 X25.164 Y21.395 F360.
X24.976 Y21.743
X24.677 Y22.021
X24.314 Y22.181
X23.919 Y22.216
X23.723 Y22.17
X23.53 Y22.122
X23.182 Y21.9
X23.158 Y21.868
Y20.129
X23.182 Y20.097
X23.53 Y19.875
X23.91 Y19.78
X24.314 Y19.816
X24.677 Y19.976
X24.976 Y20.255
X25.164 Y20.602
X25.23 Y20.999
X25.202 Y21.168
G3 X25.163 Y21.284 Z-3.48 I-0.395 J-0.066
X25.099 Y21.375 Z-3.424 I-0.356 J-0.183
X25.032 Y21.433 Z-3.335 I-0.292 J-0.273
X24.983 Y21.461 Z-3.224 I-0.225 J-0.331
X24.965 Y21.469 Z-3.1 I-0.176 J-0.359
G0 Z15.

M9
G28 G91 Z0.
G28 X0. Y0.
M30



For some reason. It plunges into the part and then starts the helix.
The tool Z height is set to the top of the part, and Mach3 confirms this. But Mach3 plunges the bit into the part.

Any ideas?

[Clive S]

(T5 D=4. CR=0. - ZMIN=-3.5 - FLAT END MILL)
G90 G94 G91.1 G40 G49 G17
G21
G28 G91 Z0.
G90

(POCKET1)
M5
M9
T5 M6
S6000 M3
G54
M7
G0 X22.399 Y9.291
G43 Z15. H2
Z5.
G1 Z4.6 F100.
G3 X22.398 Y9.272 Z4.479 I1.9 J-0.031 F150.

Sticking my neck out a bit here.
Seems strange that you have a Z5 then a Z4.6 (I would expect this to be -ve value) I see you have tool length comp on with the G43 Z15. H2 is this correct in your tool table

[JOGARA]

Sticking my neck out a bit here.
Seems strange that you have a Z5 then a Z4.6 (I would expect this to be -ve value) I see you have tool length comp on with the G43 Z15. H2 is this correct in your tool table


errrrr You have lost me I am afraid... xD





Also getting this line down one side of my part. Pretty deep and you can see that reflect in the chamfer on top of the part.
You might think that it is because the contour starts or stops here, but it doesn't...
Any ideas?

https://s10.postimg.org/lckidelu1/IMG_20180215_124500223.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/jkrjii2h1/)
https://s10.postimg.org/4ot0atjbt/Capture.png (https://postimages.org/)

[JOGARA]

Great. Now I am getting "Is the Xpod inserted OK?" all the time. Can't continue the job as it lost Y position....

[JOGARA]

Wont even drill now without producing that error :(

[JOGARA]

I am also trying to work out how to add outputs to this USB controller card.

Are the outputs the same, as in pin 1 is OUT1 on the card?
Is it pull high or low too?

[JOGARA]

Not sure what is going on but it keep losing X machine cords.

My operation has tool changes, I change the tool and set it off the work piece.
I hit run and it slowly goes back to where it stopped the contour or chamfer and then it fucks off somewhere, sometimes crashing the machine...

[Snapper]

No idea about electrics, not my thing.

But tool changes. Share a bit of your g-code where it happens.

[JOGARA]

Got in contact with Mach and they suggest that it is me moving the axis while it is waiting to start the next operation.
No idea why it would move the machine cords but Reddit also agrees that Mach3 does not like to move mid Gcode...

Switched back to splitting my code into multiple files for each tool. Worked fine. Doesn't add time, does increase the possibility of me picking the wrong file though xD

[Neale]

Not sure if it's the same problem, but something like this happens with the CSMIO motion controllers when you do a tool-change invoiving a touch-off operation - it just gets confused. Fortunately, the answer in that case is to "upgrade" to a slightly earlier version of Mach3. I'm now running .028 (from memory) and that works absolutely fine. M6 tool-changes with touch-off tool setting aren't a problem.

Not sure if you are seeing the same or closely-related problem, but might be worth looking at. Life is easier if you don't have to switch files!

[JOGARA]

Busy week.
Would have been quicker if it wasn't so cold...
Another 2 operations to do in each side and then tumbling and anodising.

https://s10.postimg.org/n82fdp5i1/IMG_20180223_114830681.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/xuw8j4dn9/)
https://s10.postimg.org/c8h821pcp/IMG_20180310_171347953_HDR.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/ubaat9l79/)

[spluppit]

Because it's not part of the program. It's a little bit like you going for a walk in dense forest, you know where you are because you have a map, but then someone blind folds you and dumps you in a different position with no reference where you have come from.... you are then lost.

Some controllers will let you move out of position and others wont, it's highly controller dependent.

The normal thing to do is program a tool change position.

Example

Z 50.
X-100. Y100. (or were you want to tool to go for a safe tool change position)
Then a program suspend or stop.

Change tool... resume program.

But as we don't know what you procedure is, its hard to know exactly what you are doing.

Again it's not working as you think it should, but the controller is not the problem in this case.

[spluppit]

I have no idea why you are tumbling parts like this. It's very non standard practice for machined parts of this nature.

[JAZZCNC]

Again it's not working as you think it should, but the controller is not the problem in this case.

Not necessarily.? Mach3 by default will let you Jog away between tool changes then when cycle start then go to next operation.
However, when using external controller some functions are taken away from M3 and handled by the controller and I'm pretty sure Jogging is one of them.
So if the controller doesn't handle this correctly when it hands control back to mach3 things can get screwed up.
This why Neale was seeing an issue when probing with Cslabs controller. In Cslabs case it's actually certain versions of Mach3 which changed how they worked at fault not the controller. Works fine with some not with others.

I think this could be the case here. I don't know which controller your using but might be worth trying few different versions of Mach3. I find older versions to be more stable, like neale I use 0.28.

[spluppit]

I nearly put in that i have zero experience of Mach of any kind. I was just drawing from my general experience of commercial controllers and especially ones with manual tool change like knee mills as an example. Some do accommodate out of position moves some don't. Mach will only be based on commercial controllers features. Looking at Jogaras reply from the mach forums it seems this was the case from what he said.

[spluppit]

I guess what I'm saying is, why not program a simple G00 move to combat having to move out of position for a tool change manually. The controller will know where it is all the then. No reason for any errors if you do that. As you know Jazz, its a very simple and standard thing to do when required.

[Neale]

I nearly put in that i have zero experience of Mach of any kind. I was just drawing from my general experience of commercial controllers and especially ones with manual tool change like knee mills as an example. Some do accommodate out of position moves some don't. Mach will only be based on commercial controllers features. Looking at Jogaras reply from the mach forums it seems this was the case from what he said.

Whether or not Mach3, or its predecessor which then became LinuxCNC via a different development path, is based on commercial systems isn't really the issue - it supports the M6 toolchange command, and allows the user to add in a couple of macros that are called automatically before and after the toolchange itself. When it's working, it also allows things like tool-height setting using a touchplate during the toolchange, which is really useful on amateur-class machines which do not have preset calibrated toolholders and the like. It supports that way of working as well, but is a bit more flexible. However, as mentioned, when you are using an external motion controller, it can get confused if the motion controller does things Mach3 doesn't know about. I would certainly suggest trying an earlier version and general reports agree that .028 is a good bet.

[JAZZCNC]

I nearly put in that i have zero experience of Mach of any kind. I was just drawing from my general experience of commercial controllers and especially ones with manual tool change like knee mills as an example. Some do accommodate out of position moves some don't. Mach will only be based on commercial controllers features. Looking at Jogaras reply from the mach forums it seems this was the case from what he said.

Actually Mach3 isn't based on commercial controllers which is exactly why it became so popular because it did it's own thing without any of the restrictions commercial controllers imposed. However this eventually became it's downfall and why it as so many strange and wonderful habbits today.
As people requested more and more features for more and more oddball setups then because Art fennerty was such an obliging bloke it became a monster.
Each version that got released to take account of someone's request would break something for someone else. On top of this Art wasn't actually a programmer by trade just a genius who decided to have go because couldn't find a controller that did what he wanted. This meant the code was lets say less than easy to fathom for developers.
This is why so many external motion controllers fail because they don't have artsofts support and the code is mine field which tried to be All things to All machines and in lots ways won but in others failed badly.

All this said the fact remains that Mach3 DOES allow jogging in tool changes so it should work. If it doesn't then it's most likely down to the controllers plug-in.
Yes there are always work arounds but shouldn't have to in this case if the controller plug-in was working correctly.

[JOGARA]

Not sure where I am going wrong here.

Putting my 2 parts together and finding that one looks like it is a rhombus though it is meant to be oblong.
The long sides are parallel and flat to the touch. But on both ends, the opposite corners are not parallel.

https://s9.postimg.org/busq3t5nz/IMG_20180328_154814983_HDR.jpg

[jamesgates1000]

Looks like one of your axes isn't square

[JOGARA]

Great.

Well I am fucking done with this shit now tbh
I have wasted a good 6 months fucking around with it and problem after problem and now £150 in stock wasted.

IDK why this has come up now. It was fine before.

[JOGARA]

Just looking at some parts made prior to moving workshop and they are showing a slight wonk to one side on the same axis.
Minute compared to this 0.3-0.5mm we are now seeing.

Any ideas on how to fix the machine?

Close to calling it quits on this and going a different route. Though I would have to sell everything to afford said different route.
Anyone want to buy this machine?

[JAZZCNC]

Close to calling it quits on this and going a different route. Though I would have to sell everything to afford said different route.
Anyone want to buy this machine?

Sorry but what did you expect.? It's cheap chinese Router which was never designed to cut hard materials to any degree of precision.! Your expecting too much from it.

[magicniner]

Any ideas on how to fix the machine?

1. Identify the axis which is out of alignment
2. Identify what should put it/keep it in alignment
3. Post photos and ask for suggestions

It sounds like you've knocked it out of alignment by hammering it beyond it's capability, you may be able to hammer it back.


Anyone want to buy this machine?

It's a great idea to fix it, it's probably something that way, when asked what broken machinery is worth I always quote the Rag and Bone Man's opening gambit to children - Tuppence and a Balloon :D (I'd actually give about £50 as I could use some of the parts for a 3D printer build I'm on with ;-) )

[m_c]

There is always the bodge option.
Machine the parts so that the out of squareness matches up.

[JOGARA]

There is always the bodge option.
Machine the parts so that the out of squareness matches up.

Been thinking about doing that. Does not impact the internals of the case as we built in tolerance to the PCBs.

[Snapper]

As you know I have the same machine. I have wasted too many hours hammering the gantry back and forth, shimming it, squaring the spindle etc.

When alls said and done you have to realise this is a very entry point hobby machine that we are pushing to its limits cutting aluminium. Being made out of pieces of extruded aluminium bolted together, it moves. It moves with different atmospheric conditions, it moves under load/vibration from cutting aluminium.

In my case my gantry was skewed radially and actually by about 2mm and 1mm respectively IIRC. I've had mine in pieces more times than I care to count trying to make it as good as I can, opening up holes, retapping threads, shimming it. It never stays square for long. In the end I've given up trying to keep everything square as it's a waste of time unless you have an hour to kill every time you set the machine up, and just accept that it is what it is and it makes what it makes.

In your case you can solve the problem of your parts not matching by cutting one side the other way round, then the rhombus will match that of the other half, currently you have them opposing each other. Or you could cut them oversize initially then bolt them together and finish. The ones you've already made could be saved this way.

And in regards to the conversation about controllers, unless OMIO changed controller between my purchase and his it does allow for jogging the spindle anywhere between tool changes, I've never had a problem.

[magicniner]

If you got the machine squared up you could put less load on it with a single flute cutter and a ramped profile cut where the cut depth is considerably less but the feed speed is higher.

[Zeeflyboy]

To fix the squareness the easiest way I found was to drill two holes for precision dowels in the Y-axis, then using a precision edge run a dial indicator along the X-axis with the precision edge clamped against the dowels. I then loosen bolts on the gantry and gently tap it in the direction required before re-tightening the bolts and re-checking. Repeat a few times and you will get it fairly close to square (although you will come to realise that your gantry is probably not flat, but bowed slightly leading to it being impossible to square out completely - I just tweak until the dial indicator reads the same at 1/4 and 3/4 travel).

I ended up just having it as square as I could get it over the centre of the bed where I do most of my work, the squareness varies a little as you move around the bed due to the lack of straightness inherent in extrusions. I found it generally holds the square ok-ish after messing with it, but if you move it then you'll have to re-do.

Ultimately I do think its good for the money as an entry point, but for really precise work you have to work within the limitations of the machine and spend a lot of time tweaking. The best option in terms of value for money is to take what you've learned from the machine (plus all your tooling and associated equipment) and use it when designing/following a design on here for building your own machine. The conclusion I came to is that while I've managed to make some really good stuff on it, it simply isn't worth fixing up or modding extensively as you end up chasing your own tail.

That said I have managed to make some pretty precise parts with it, and it is still leagues ahead of the unsupported rail type 6040 machines.

[Boyan Silyavski]

The road to go with this is very simple- buy a CNC mini mill. Fit a DDCSV controller and you will never have any problems. I have had 0 problems from the time i stopped using Mach3 for anything at all.

You could start changing the controller anyway. And as they told you- using single flute mills. And reinforce all as much as possible as cheap as possible.

[JOGARA]

Been a few months. Thought I would update this car crash of a thread with a little something.

As some of you have seen already, I farmed out the work. Glad to say that it has gone really well and has actually save a lot of my time and was totaly worth it.

Went with Scott from Ward Engineering. (http://wardeng.co.uk/)

Helped me a lot with creating better models for faster and more efficient machining and general things like adding some margin for the powder coat and tolerances.

Overall I could not be any happier. They turned out great and I think I have nearly 40 of this style of case.
Currently have close to 80 more cases being made right now and hopefully around 25 of another part
I should note we did save a few pennies on tooling as these are being powder coated.


https://s15.postimg.cc/uibv5zb8b/IMG_1812.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/fz4q4ki3b/)

https://s15.postimg.cc/yep71z3xn/IMG_1813.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/7tmo6f1k7/)

https://s15.postimg.cc/sqiwb1257/IMG_1814.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/6el3hn313/)

https://s15.postimg.cc/sdri4wwqz/IMG_1816.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/3khy49dqf/)

https://s15.postimg.cc/3x9caedzv/IMG_1817.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/jvi20j87r/)

https://s15.postimg.cc/3khy4hydn/IMG_1819.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/tst2tvih3/)


Powder coated in house...

https://s15.postimg.cc/p48hknltn/IMG_1807.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/u2vzz6pmf/)

https://s15.postimg.cc/6rchnt5vf/IMG_1808.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/he6at8e0n/)

https://s15.postimg.cc/uv39c5lsb/IMG_1809.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/m02f1mwzr/)

https://s15.postimg.cc/7gva06e4r/IMG_1810.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/q9753raiv/)


I am broke now though so if anyone wants to buy the 80mm spindle LED ring lights from me, either as a blank PCB or as a kit or fully assembled let me know :p
https://postimg.cc/image/6z04kkomf/
https://postimg.cc/image/l5fvftucn/

[Chaz]

Nice work Scott. And that's the difference between Hobby or not.

[spluppit]

Thanks Chaz. Sometimes the right job needs the right equipment to get the consistency and overall quality. These units are also now made in the correct material for the job, so anodising is now a realistic option should that path be looked at again.

Jogara should be given a lot of credit to be frank. He has done pretty darn well considering nearly everything has been stacked against him. 10 out of 10 for bravery and perseverance.


This the next lot being machined.

2456424565

[AndyGuid]

Been a few months. Thought I would update this car crash of a thread with a little something.

As some of you have seen already, I farmed out the work. Glad to say that it has gone really well and has actually save a lot of my time and was totaly worth it.


@JOGARA, a big thank you from downunder where I have thoroughly enjoyed following your thread, and have learnt loads from it.

Cheers,
Andy

[routercnc]

Usually these things are die cast but I guess volumes are low?

Anyway beautiful work spluppit ! Can’t beat shiny fresh cut aluminium.

[JOGARA]

Any ideas on how to square the gantry?
I need to do some pretty accurate circles in a week or so. Just cut a 22mm hole for a carbon rod and the circle is oval...

[Zeeflyboy]

Sure that’s not due to backlash?

Other than improving the backlash situation, the only answer to that is backlash compensation in the control software.

To square the gantry the best I found was to drill 2 holes for precision dowels in the y axis and butt a precision square up against it. I then run a dial indicator along the edge in X axis, and then loosen the gantry bolts and smack it with a mallet until it’s as square as I can get it. You won’t get it perfect as the gantry isn’t completely flat.

[JOGARA]

Sure that’s not due to backlash?

Other than improving the backlash situation, the only answer to that is backlash compensation in the control software.

To square the gantry the best I found was to drill 2 holes for precision dowels in the y axis and butt a precision square up against it. I then run a dial indicator along the edge in X axis, and then loosen the gantry bolts and smack it with a mallet until it’s as square as I can get it. You won’t get it perfect as the gantry isn’t completely flat.

Could well be backlash.
I just measured it again and my 22mm diameter is 0.04 under in the Y and 0.14 under in the X.
It is pretty close but next week I need to do a 190mm diameter hole and close fit a bearing in it.
Yes I am using a caliper... Need a bore gauge.

It is not as off as I thought but if I can get it close as possible, would be less nervous about the big part.

[Snapper]

What Zee said although also indicate along the Y also to make sure you have the square square.

That’s a big bore and a tight tolerance for a machine like that. Good luck.

[JAZZCNC]

Could well be backlash.
I just measured it again and my 22mm diameter is 0.04 under in the Y and 0.14 under in the X.
It is pretty close but next week I need to do a 190mm diameter hole and close fit a bearing in it.
Yes I am using a caliper... Need a bore gauge.

It is not as off as I thought but if I can get it close as possible, would be less nervous about the big part.

You can't measure a bore with calipers and believe that 0.04mm measurement or even the 0.14mm for that matter..!! . . . Only a bore gauge can do that with any accuracy.

Also, it's not just the gantry squareness you need to worry about, the spindle tram and parallelism of the rails all come into play and I know for sure that these machines are not good enough in either of those areas to machine a bore that size to any decent accuracy.

[JOGARA]

Hmm

Built a new enclosure for the machine. This meant I disconnected the PC and moved it for a sort time while I built everything.
Put it all back together and now the CNC stutters. :joker:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GlH5yDGhRc

[edit]

It looks like turning the backlash toggle off stops this...

The machine earlier did lose a load of steps though and fked up my part -_-

[edit 2]
Now getting that "Is the Xpod inserted OK? it has ceased to respond..." error again god dam it

[John11668]

Surely if you are looking at a bearing fit , then bore micrometers are what is needed.

[Snapper]

So. Did you do it?

Did it work?

[erniehatt]

Hi I have a 6040 machine, and it works very well, someone earlier said acrylic melts, if that's the case then your setting are all wrong, I use a lot of acrylic in my projects and have never had melting. My settings are, for a 3mm bit, !0,000 rpm, 254 feed and 80 plunge.

[erniehatt]

Well it seems you have to be lucky, I made a set square yesterday, and it turned out perfect, all I have every done it tram the spindle.

[JAZZCNC]

Hi I have a 6040 machine, and it works very well, someone earlier said acrylic melts, if that's the case then your setting are all wrong, I use a lot of acrylic in my projects and have never had melting. My settings are, for a 3mm bit, !0,000 rpm, 254 feed and 80 plunge.

What units is the 254 value in.? ie: inch/min, mm/sec, or mm/min because if it's either of the first two then I very much doubt you are reaching those feeds? Every Chinese 6040 machine I've ever come across uses 5mm pitch ball-screws and struggles to reach much past 5000mm/min. Your 254 figure if in imperial units would be cutting at 6500mm/min, If it's mm/sec then it's even worse because that would be 15,240mm/min which it couldn't reach if you threw it out the top floor window.!

I see this all the time with Chinese machines in that people enter feeds n speeds in CAM, often the default settings for tool size in software like Vcarve pro, etc, and because Mach3 or whatever control software they are using doesn't complain if it's higher than the max velocity settings they think they are reaching those feeds.!.. They are NOT, and can't possibly because the machine isn't tuned for or even capable of those feeds.

Regards Melting acrylic then it could be because of the type of acrylic, Cast acrylic machines so much nicer than the other stuff which I've forgotten the name of.! The other stuff can be a B'##'#rd to machine and melts for fun IME.!

[erniehatt]

Thanks for the feedback.
I only go by what the program I use tells me, I use Carbide create, and it just gives a figure that I use, I don't profess to be an expert
The Acrylic I use is stuff I get from eBay, so it could be anything.
Everything is in MM' So what figures am I really using.

[JAZZCNC]

Thanks for the feedback.
I only go by what the program I use tells me, I use Carbide create, and it just gives a figure that I use, I don't profess to be an expert
The Acrylic I use is stuff I get from eBay, so it could be anything.
Everything is in MM' So what figures am I really using.

Ok, that seems quite slow if mm/min, but it does depend on the tool your using. ie: # of flutes, length, HSS or Carbide, coated or uncoated, etc.
I don't cut acrylic very often but the last time I did it was with 1.5mm dia tool single flute carbide cutter in cast acrylic and I'm pretty sure I was cutting much faster than that.!

For a 3mm single flute cutter even if HSS steel, I'd be looking towards double that feed for a starting point and with double the RPM.!

[erniehatt]

Thanks for the reply and helpful info.
Igot me to experimenting, today I cut a pattern in 19 mm plywood, using the following setting.
15,000 rpm, 508 feed, and 203 plunge, with a 3 mm 2 flute bit, it cut very very well.

[JAZZCNC]

Thanks for the reply and helpful info.
Igot me to experimenting, today I cut a pattern in 19 mm plywood, using the following setting.
15,000 rpm, 508 feed, and 203 plunge, with a 3 mm 2 flute bit, it cut very very well.

You are still cutting well below what you probably could. Don't be afraid to experiment, you'll be plesantly surprised how much faster or deeper you can cut.

You don't mention the tool material HSS or carbide.? or the DOC.

If tool is HSS then try 2mm DOC 900mm/min 20,000rpm, you could probably easily cut at 3mm DOC but 2mm will be safer start point.

If tool is carbide then try 1250mm/min 24,000rpm 3mm DOC and work up from there. Carbide tooling works best when it's being pushed hard so don't be afraid to give it some welly.
The machine will be the weak link when it comes to carbide tools as you push harder because it will vibrate and carbide doesn't like vibrations or chatter as it's quite brittle, the chatter cause it to chip the cutting edges which then leads to excess heat and if bad chatter will snap the cutter.

HSS is more forgiving but can't be pushed hard like Carbide can and wears more quickly losing it's cutting edges faster.

Just remember the deeper you cut the more important chip evactuation becomes so make sure you have dust extraction fitted.

[erniehatt]

Thank you.
I am not sure what material the bits are, they came with the machine, probably cheap Chinese.The DOC was 1.5 ...
I will be experimenting with them,I will be able to push them some, they really didn't cost anything.
Thanks again.