1200mmX900mmX170mm 4axis cnc

[Doddy]

Just a casual observation for anyone looking to re-use these schematics.

Some, probably not all, but certainly the cheap and nasty BoB that I have in front of me (and I've just re-tested) - which provide a 0-10V output to the spindle, and a 12-24V supply to provide this 10V reference on board... will use this same onboard 10V supply to drive the LED anodes on the opto-isolator inputs (so to switch the input, you connect the coupler's LED's cathodes to ground [via sensors, etc]).

My point?, for these cheap BoBs, to use the inputs you still need to supply a 12-24V supply, as well as a 5V supply to the BoB.

Like I said, probably won't apply to all BoBs.

[Nickhofen]

Thanks everyone for the help and the very helpful info, it is time to make my study now... :-)

[Nickhofen]

The last two days we had temperature drop and some rain so I went to workshop and lift the gantry and push the x axis rails in the y axis bearings.
I weighted the gantry out of curiosity and the scale show 32.5 kg with out the spindle and the aluminium plates at the place of mdf,I wonder if the two 4nm motors will be able to move the gantry and cut at acceptable speeds.:-(
To lift the gantry I made some kind of a crane with some scrap metal beams I had in the shop.
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[Nr1madman]

The 4Nm motors are STRONG! no need to worry :D


Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk

[Nickhofen]

I hope or else I will have to rotate the ballscrews with my hands! Haha!!!

[Nickhofen]

Cut the second base for the x axis motor,the right angle is from the aluminium beams,I cut the length I wanted and then separate the square to two angles,each one for each x axis motor.
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[Nickhofen]

Do you guys prefer to mount the electronics direct at the electronic box with screws and nuts, or first on an mdf and then in the box?

[Doddy]

Myself - a steel plate mounted on stand-offs mounted into the case. That way you can remove the whole assembly to work on.

[Nickhofen]

Steel plate for ground issues,or because it is more stable?

[Doddy]

It's cheap. Just like me!

[Nickhofen]

It's cheap. Just like me!

:thumsup::beer:

[Desertboy]

Steel plate for ground issues,or because it is more stable?

The electronics box I got out the skip had a steel plate in it so I used that, the box is made of GRP.

[Nickhofen]

The electronics box I got out the skip had a steel plate in it so I used that, the box is made of GRP.

Hey where have you been?
What is GRP?

[routercnc]

Hey where have you been?
What is GRP?

Glass Reinforced Plastic (or fibre glass)

[Nickhofen]

Thanks,I should have know that acronym......

[Desertboy]

Hey where have you been?

Got busy at work, these unreasonable customers wanting things lol.

[Nickhofen]

Those guys are everywhere! :-P

[Nickhofen]

Anyone here ever build a concrete workbench for his cnc and made a thread?
I show a build posted at a group on Facebook but not with enough info.

[Nickhofen]

Make the diagram according the schematic of Dean and Routercnc and let the wires going and coming from the UC300 ETH-UB1 to drap them at the end,but the UB1 is very complicated for my knowledge and I am stacked...:-(

[Nr1madman]

Damnit! Dont have the ub1 so I can't help you. Hate running into trouble so I hope you can get this party started!

Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk

[driftspin]

Hi Nick.

Can you list the parts you have and want to hook up to the ub1?

UB1 eliminates some stuff like the need for multi psu's and make things a little more straight forward.

So when you list parts people can start helping you.



Grtz Bert.



Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

[Nickhofen]

Yes Bert what you say it's true, UB1 needs only 24volts which converts it to 5 volt , with some restrictions,has on board 3 relays , from those you can control a sequence , powering up power relays etc.and other features.

My problem is that it is more complicated than the one and only 5$ bob I have ever install, at my previews cnc and also much more expensive, the last one makes me more nervous to experiment! I must be a 100% sure before power it up!

My parts are:
2x AM882H
2X AM882
1x78Volts PSU 7Amps
2x12 volt psu 330watt
HY VFD with 2.2kw water cooled spindle
water pump...etc.
I hope I did n't forget a major component , if i remember something I will edit my post.

Thanks,Nick.

[Nickhofen]

Damnit! Dont have the ub1 so I can't help you. Hate running into trouble so I hope you can get this party started!

Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk


Hi Robert!
With all the helpful guys at this forum I am sure that something good is going to come up!

[Clive S]

1x78Volts PSU 7AmpsDo you really mean 78v with AM882 drivers !!

[Nickhofen]

Hi Clive.
If I recall right ,PSU is rated somewhere between 74 to 78volts,is the power too high?
Also I forgot to mention the 4x 4NM motors.

[Clive S]

Hi Clive.
If I recall right ,PSU is rated somewhere between 74 to 78volts,is the power too high?
Alao I forgot to mention the 4x 4NM motors.

That is a little high for AM882 drive 68v is more realistic

[driftspin]

Yes Bert what you say it's true, UB1 needs only 24volts which converts it to 5 volt , with some restrictions,has on board 3 relays , from those you can control a sequence , powering up power relays etc.and other features.

My problem is that it is more complicated than the one and only 5$ bob I have ever install, at my previews cnc and also much more expensive, the last one makes me more nervous to experiment! I must be a 100% sure before power it up!

My parts are:
2x AM882H
2X AM882
1x78Volts PSU 7Amps
2x12 volt psu 330watt
HY VFD with 2.2kw water cooled spindle
water pump...etc.
I hope I did n't forget a major component , if i remember something I will edit my post.

Thanks,Nick.Any home switches?

Do you want to control spindle speed by 0-10v?

Estop?

Air valves?

cooling pumps?

Grtz. Bert

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

[Nickhofen]

Any home switches?

Do you want to control spindle speed by 0-10v?

Estop?

Air valves?

cooling pumps?

Grtz. Bert

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

Right now I have the Estop ,NPN proximity switches and water pump.
I will add all the rest ,everything I can add and also a potentiometer for spindle speed control.

[Nickhofen]

Finish the power supply, thanks everyone for the help.
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Clive,my mistake,psu delivers lower voltage than this i mention.
Thanks for watching my back.

[Clive S]

I can add and also a potentiometer for spindle speed control.

I posted this some time ago. #1 http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7388-Fitting-a-pot-to-a-Chinese-Spindle-VFD

[Nickhofen]

Try to make a diagram with the help of UB1 manual....

[Nickhofen]

This is what I come up untill now, no water pump or stepper motors yet added.
HY VFD is going to be connected according the second schematic.

Can you guys check the diagram to see if you find any issues, I add also the manual of UB1.
Also please suggest where to put fuses and relays.

Thanks,Nick.

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http://www.cncroom.com/downloads/UB1%20Owner%20Manual%20E15R0.pdf

[Clive S]

One thing I see is that you seem to have fuses in the -ve line from the 72v PS that is NOT good practise and are not necessary. Also 5A may be a bit low

[Nickhofen]

One thing I see is that you seem to have fuses in the -ve line from the 72v PS that is NOT good practise and are not necessary. Also 5A may be a bit low

Not a good practise at all ,I didn'r realyse I put the fuses there.
I change it .Thanks!
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[Nickhofen]

Can anyone suggest how to connect relays and fuses at this wiring diagram?

[driftspin]

Can anyone suggest how to connect relays and fuses at this wiring diagram?Hi Nick,

I have a primairy CB 16amp C type for the entire cabinet.

I have a CB 4Amp on the 230volt side of the 24vdc 2a supply. PSU secundary is shortcicuit protected.
But maybe an extra 24volt side glass fuse would be appropriate there.

The above CB's are for convienience only.


I still want a 16amp B type CB on secundary side 72vdc psu.
Mine is a high amp (10amps nominal) psu 500va transformer... and would like to protect the wiring in the panel.

Shorting out 72vdc circuit can lead to higher amps than i can trust some of the 1mm2 cabinet wiring with.


Since you have 5vdc onboard on ub1 no problems there.


For the relays.. is this about the e-stop relay we talked about?


Can you list the stuff you want to control by relays? You mentioned an ub1 has 3 onboard so...


Maybe pneumatic valves, pumps , vfd?

What needs switching on/off more than the 3 relays available to you?

I would use the onboard relays just for low current stuff like the remote on / off for the vfd , the spindle cooling pump, maybe chip clearing air valves and or liquids.

BTW doesn't your design allow for 4 combined end / home switches?

Do you plan on using all 8 off them?

like 4 home and 4 end?

I read about this a few times on the forum they can be combined in some configurations.

I have no hands on experience this subject (and a lot of other things) :-) yet.

Grtz Bert.



Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

[Clive S]

I still want a 16amp B type CB on secundary side 72vdc psu.
Mine is a high amp (10amps nominal) psu 500va transformer... and would like to protect the wiring in the panel.

Why would you want a 16 breaker on the secondary side Just a slow blow fuse to each drive is more than enough.

[driftspin]

Why would you want a 16 breaker on the secondary side Just a slow blow fuse to each drive is more than enough.Hi Clive S,

Like i said.. most cabinet wiring is 1mm2.. a bit on the thin side for maximum current the 500va 72vdc psu can generate.
And nothing to stop it .... yet.

I did run separate wires to all drives.
So i could do 4 fuses. 1 per drive.
like these

https://goo.gl/images/zFDM82



Or 1 cb for all..


Grtz Bert.




Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

[Clive S]

The only thing the 72v ps is supplying is the drives so what has the 1mm wiring got to do with it. Also 1mm cable can carry in the region of 10A

[Nickhofen]

For the relays.. is this about the e-stop relay we talked about?


Can you list the stuff you want to control by relays? You mentioned an ub1 has 3 onboard so...


Maybe pneumatic valves, pumps , vfd?

What needs switching on/off more than the 3 relays available to you?

I would use the onboard relays just for low current stuff like the remote on / off for the vfd , the spindle cooling pump, maybe chip clearing air valves and or liquids.

Hi Bert
Thanks for the reply.

The relays that the card has onboard are charachterized as ''signal relays that should never used as power relays, they are intended to convey signals such as fwd and reverse to a VFD ...However please take care , as the contact of these relays can carry a max current of 0.5 amp at 120V AC or 1 amp at 24V dc.The user must use an external relay if the load requirements of the device will exceed the current rating.''

This is why i mention the external relay connection.
To answer the other question you put, I want to connect the maximum I can on this card ,water pump , air nozzle etc.



BTW doesn't your design allow for 4 combined end / home switches?

Do you plan on using all 8 off them?

like 4 home and 4 end?

I read about this a few times on the forum they can be combined in some configurations.

I have no hands on experience this subject (and a lot of other things) :-) yet.

Grtz Bert.



Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

I am going for this configuration because my previus cnc was wired like that, if there is a better way of course I prefer it.

You are speaking about traveling proximity switches, right?


Regards.
Nick.

[driftspin]

The only thing the 72v ps is supplying is the drives so what has the 1mm wiring got to do with it. Also 1mm cable can carry in the region of 10AHi Clive S,

yes that is exactly the point.
Normally the current will not go past that, my 1mm2 will only carry power to 1 driver.


Until something goes wrong that is.

When a short happens on a transformer it is capable of more current.
It might smoke my 1mm2 panel wiring i believe.
But maybe the rectifier will blow out first.

In my line of work the secundary fuses also match the spec of the panel wiring.

So i think a secundary fuse might be a good idea.


While is was looking up data on my particular transformer, the datasheet mentions the precense a TCO in the primary windings... so transformer thermal overload is sorted.



Can't find any specific data on max fault current though..
Maybe it can be calculated ... not my field of expertise.

Grtz Bert.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180721/afac23c51a9ceda288ae352c7bde2ac8.jpg

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

[driftspin]

Hi Bert
Thanks for the reply.

The relays that the card has onboard are charachterized as ''signal relays that should never used as power relays, they are intended to convey signals such as fwd and reverse to a VFD ...However please take care , as the contact of these relays can carry a max current of 0.5 amp at 120V AC or 1 amp at 24V dc.The user must use an external relay if the load requirements of the device will exceed the current rating.''

This is why i mention the external relay connection.
To answer the other question you put, I want to connect the maximum I can on this card ,water pump , air nozzle etc.






Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

I am going for this configuration because my previus cnc was wired like that, if there is a better way of course I prefer it.

You are speaking about traveling proximity switches, right?


Regards.
Nick.[/QUOTE]Hi Nick,

Ask/look around for the multi channel relay boards.

For the proximity switches.

You have the inputs for it... so why not [emoji41]


Grtz Bert.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

[Davek0974]

Hi Clive S,

yes that is exactly the point.
Normally the current will not go past that, my 1mm2 will only carry power to 1 driver.


Until something goes wrong that is.

When a short happens on a transformer it is capable of more current.
It might smoke my 1mm2 panel wiring i believe.
But maybe the rectifier will blow out first.

In my line of work the secundary fuses also match the spec of the panel wiring.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180721/afac23c51a9ceda288ae352c7bde2ac8.jpg

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

your panel wiring really must be able to handle the breaking current of whatever the protective device takes to blow, a slow blow fuse is ideal here, but the wire must be rated suitably - if too thin it will just melt.

[Nickhofen]

One more add on my diagram.Relay and reset switch.
24705

[Nickhofen]

Finish this today!
No cnc relevant , but since I am a sissy as a friend from NY says:beguiled:, to start my wiring,(When someone has not pay a euro for components see it different,LOL), I build other things!
2475824759

[Nr1madman]

Nice! What wood is used for the handle? :D

Been watching alot of YouTube vids about knifemaking so maybe I should give it a go aswell ..?

Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk

[Nickhofen]

Hi Robert.
The handle is made from root of Olive tree,those trees are very common here.
Do you watch the competition "Forged in Fire" also? ;-)

[Nickhofen]

After some reading at old threads I place the last orders at Aliexpress for contactor, relays, slow blow fuses, power supplies etc.
I want to say a big thanks to routercnc and driftspin for the help they offer at the backstage, and all the other people of course that keep answering my silly questions! :)

[routercnc]

Can’t remember what I did but you are welcome. Just passing it on . . .

[Nickhofen]

I am thinking to place the parts that way in the control box,will it be any problem with the positioning of VFD?
If I remember correctly people puts shielede cables to the signal wires ,wires that goes to controllers, motors etc. right?
25119

[Chaz]

I am thinking to place the parts that way in the control box,will it be any problem with the positioning of VFD?
If I remember correctly people puts shielede cables to the signal wires ,wires that goes to controllers, motors etc. right?
25119

The manual for each device will tell you what spacing you need for cooling, follow that.

[Clive S]

I am thinking to place the parts that way in the control box,will it be any problem with the positioning of VFD?
If I remember correctly people puts shielede cables to the signal wires ,wires that goes to controllers, motors etc. right?
25119

I personally prefer the VFD outside of the control box. The spacing on the drives are fine I tend to use cat3 twisted for the signal wires and CY 4 core for the motors the shield grounded to the star point at one end only

[Nickhofen]

Thanks guys!
Clive CY4 core for the motors and parallel wiring for the motor's coils right?

[Clive S]

Thanks guys!
Clive CY4 core for the motors and parallel wiring for the motor's coils right?

Yes 1mm cable is ok. and parallel assuming you have 8 wire motors yes

[Nickhofen]

8 wires of course,I forgot to mention it :stupid:

[routercnc]

My layout is a mirror image of that because the VFD air inlet is on the left. I cut out a large hole in the side of the enclosure next to it to allow the air straight in to the VFD and the it exhausts out of a hole directly above it. That stops it drawing warm air from the enclosure.

I allowed 2 80mm fan sized holes in the base of the enclosure below the drivers but never added the fans as they barely get warm. Natural convection seems to work fine although we are in the UK so it does not get that hot.

[Nickhofen]

Thanks routercnc.
I have in mind to use two fans on the bottom of the enclosure box to push air in there and a filter for the dust and two on the top.
The info about the hole near VFD is very good,I am going to use it!

[Nickhofen]

This week a friend ask if I want one of those big PC tower for housing the electronics of the cnc, I said yes and he came with a box bigger than I could think!
Ι did some mods on the box...
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25213
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[Nickhofen]

Some more drills, screws, rivets and , here is the result!
25215
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25217

[driftspin]

Some more drills, screws, rivets and , here is the result!
25215
25216
25217Hey Nick,

I like it that you are making progress.

Keep up the good work.

Grtz Bert.




Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

[Nickhofen]

Thanks Bert.
All components are here ,there is no excuse now to start the wirring,I must overcome the fear of burn something and move on.:redface:

[Nickhofen]

Start 3d printing some cable organizers at different sizes for the electronic box, cant wait for Christmas vacations , so I have the time to start the wiring.
25251
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[Nickhofen]

I have start my wiring, I am following Routercnc's schematic, since it is easier for me to understand.
The control panel is going to be like the one in the picture, I haven't put a water pump activation button for the water cooled spindle since it is going to be activated from the spindle start button.
Do I have to add another button? Is the ergonomic ok? Your thoughts please!
25674

[Nickhofen]

I use fusion 360 to design the panel and 3D print it with my anet A8.
Here is the finished project, not perfect but it will do the job.
25696

[Nickhofen]

Fail number one!
25717
And the fail number two is that I make a hike for an e-stop and one for emergency stop...:stupid:

[Chaz]

Fail number one!
25717
And the fail number two is that I make a hike for an e-stop and one for emergency stop...:stupid:

Fail quick / cheap. I do the same, at least printing it helps to see without machining the plate and finding the issue. I found drawing stuff in CAD helps too, cos you can then visualise issues like this.

[Nickhofen]

Yes that's true , at least to everyone else except me ,since I did the drawing and didn't realize the problem until now! Haha!
As you said it is a cheap fail, positive thinking ...that's what I like!

[Lee Roberts]

Can you not just turn the switch round so its running horizontally, nice idea with 3d printing the panel though, don't think i've seen anyone do that here yet :thumsup:

[Doddy]

And the fail number two is that I make a hike for an e-stop and one for emergency stop...:stupid:

Surely the second hole for estop is for the big flashing lamp??

[Nickhofen]

Can you not just turn the switch round so its running horizontally, nice idea with 3d printing the panel though, don't think i've seen anyone do that here yet :thumsup:

Thanks Lee from time to time I have flashes of ingenuity! :topsy_turvy:
That's a good idea about turning the switch horizontal!

[Nickhofen]

Surely the second hole for estop is for the big flashing lamp??
Why didn't I thought of that ! Now I need an extra big lamp to put in there!
Thanks guys you are all so kind!
I am thinking to place the emergency stop at the bottom right ,since there is the right hole for the switch and scrape the e- stop letters from the bottom left hole?
Maybe I can put another switch on the bottom left hole in the future a button that I can not think of now.
For sure I can print new letters or marking on the panel....

[Nickhofen]

Small progress.
I 3D print the lower panel for the motor connectors no big deal but I like how the front panel looks now...:excitement:
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[driftspin]

Small progress.
I 3D print the lower panel for the motor connectors no big deal but I like how the front panel looks now...:excitement:
25735
25736Hi Nick,


Looking good, keep it up!

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[Nickhofen]

I am using the uc300eth UB1 with AM882 Leadshine stepper motor drive, as I understand from the Leadshine manual I have to use 2k resistors for the PUL- , DIR-,ENA- and alarm since I use 24volt outputs of UC300 eth ub1 right?
Can someone explain why the resistors are connected to - lines? Is that safe for the drivers? I have seen some diagrams connecting resistors at the + lines for protecting the drivers but this is the first time that I see the opposite.
3022230223

[Clive S]

All the resistor does is limit the current to about 12 to 15mA at 24V going through the led

[Nickhofen]

So is it safe to use only one resistor per driver, at EN+ as the diagram above?

[JAZZCNC]

I am using the uc300eth UB1 with AM882 Leadshine stepper motor drive, as I understand from the Leadshine manual I have to use 2k resistors for the PUL- , DIR-,ENA- and alarm since I use 24volt outputs of UC300 eth ub1 right?

The MOTOR OUTPUTS are 5V not 24V, only the general OUTPUTS are 24V, so you don't need the resistors for the drives.

[Nickhofen]

So I am going to use 2k resistors as shown on the diagram below, right?
Sorry for keep asking, I want to eliminate the chance to make a critical mistake.
30224

[JAZZCNC]

So I am going to use 2k resistors as shown on the diagram below, right?
Sorry for keep asking, I want to eliminate the chance to make a critical mistake.
30224

No, see my post below. You don't need resistors because the motor outputs are only 5v NOT 24v

[Nickhofen]

Thanks to @AndyUK who post his UCCNC set up at his building thread and to all the other guys in the forum, I manage to see my steppers move for the very first time last night.
Thanks everyone for the support!

Here is Andy's post:http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/11552-AndyUK-s-Build-1-2x1-0m-Gantry?p=126084#post126084


https://youtu.be/3eSnTzdRcIw

[Nickhofen]

I forgot to mention that at AB882 controllers you have to leave the enable pins disconnected otherwise the servos won't start.
30303

[AndyUK]

I manage to see my steppers move for the very first time last night.

Congrats Nick! Isn't it fantastic when things start moving?! Getting very close now!

I think the drivers being enabled when disconnected is the default behavior. I changed mine in the protuner configuration software to need the enable signal in the opposite direction. My thoughts being that an active signal of "yes motor you can move" is better than "no signal means everything is okay" because if a wire got disconnected it fails into a safe state.

[Nickhofen]

Congrats Nick! Isn't it fantastic when things start moving?! Getting very close now!

I think the drivers being enabled when disconnected is the default behavior. I changed mine in the protuner configuration software to need the enable signal in the opposite direction. My thoughts being that an active signal of "yes motor you can move" is better than "no signal means everything is okay" because if a wire got disconnected it fails into a safe state.

That's a good point once again, I will do it that way.
Thanks again!

[JAZZCNC]

Thanks to @AndyUK who post his UCCNC set up at his building thread and to all the other guys in the forum, I manage to see my steppers move for the very first time last night.
Thanks everyone for the support!

Here is Andy's post:http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/11552-AndyUK-s-Build-1-2x1-0m-Gantry?p=126084#post126084

How did I miss this.? Well done Nick and nice to see another machine come to life. Looking forward to the first cut video so crack on..:thumsup:

[Nickhofen]

How did I miss this.? Well done Nick and nice to see another machine come to life. Looking forward to the first cut video so crack on..:thumsup:

Thanks to all of you guys, much appreciated,thanks again

[Nickhofen]

The ungliest cnc ever!:yahoo:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIqcCCCgPMY

[Nickhofen]

I cut with my bandsaw the 20mm thick aluminum plate I bought from a scrap yard for 80 euros, to replace the MDF I use to mock up everything.
Things went well.

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[Nickhofen]

What tap and bolts do you guys recommend for the Y axis plates?
Happy new year to you and your families!
30738

[Kitwn]

The ungliest cnc ever!:yahoo:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIqcCCCgPMY

Nope, that prize is mine! Though I've moved on a little since this video was made.

https://vimeo.com/146894861

[Nickhofen]

Nope, that prize is mine! Though I've moved on a little since this video was made.

https://vimeo.com/146894861

I like it!
It it some sort of steampunk!!!

[Kitwn]

I like it!
It it some sort of steampunk!!!

Yes it was bit like that!
The aim wasn't so much to make a viable machine, though I had hoped it might have some use, as prove to myself at minimum cost that I was capable of pulling together all the disparate elements needed to make a working machine, preferably using as many elements as possible that I could buy at the local hardware store.

In that respect it was an outstanding success, it worked the first time I switched it on and gave me the confidence to invest some more time and money in something that could actually do something useful.

As you can probably guess I had not discovered MYCNCUK at that time :joker:

[Nickhofen]

What you did it seems a big success to me, building a cnc machine from things you collect here and there shows that you have master all the principle of cnc and have imagination.
Keep creating!

[Nickhofen]

Small progress.
3074130742

[Nickhofen]

Thanks again everyone for helping me make my build come true!
My first engraving is a message for all the people who think that the machine that they have started or thinking to build won't finish ever.
Small careful steps and it will happen!
https://youtu.be/T4lE-vFG6qU


https://youtu.be/T4lE-vFG6qU

[sv3qup]

Συγχαρητήρια Φίλε μου μπράβο!!!

Congratulations mate,

Hope you have great fun with your machine and enjoy it as much as you dit while making it

George

[Nickhofen]

Συγχαρητήρια Φίλε μου μπράβο!!!

Congratulations mate,

Hope you have great fun with your machine and enjoy it as much as you dit while making it

George

Thank you very much George!

[JAZZCNC]

Always nice to see another machine come to life, well done Nick, and nice job.:applause: