Beavermill conversion to CNC

[Andre]

Hey everyone,

I am a metalworker professionally and as my hobby. I always wanted to have a CNC milling machine.
Hearing the prices of repairs on our CNC machines at work , I gave up my ambition to buy one.
Then I met some people who build their CNC by themselves.Then the idea came to me to rebuild my old Beaver Mill .
A decade ago I bought a Beaver Mill VBRP.
After standing in a corner of my workshop all this time, I put him back in the spotlights. The idea is to convert him into a CNC Mill.
Last Saturday I started cleaning him.
I will let you know how the rebuilding goes along.

Here are a few foto's from before the clean up;

[ptjw7uk]

Welcome to the mad house,
I think JohnS has a beaver mill or is in favour of them.

peter

[BillTodd]

That's a nice thing to have standing in the corner of the workshop (Actually, It'd be quite nice to have a workshop with a spare corner!)

I suggest you look at ball-screws rather than using the existing lead-screws (for X and Y), with servo motors, rather than steppers, for a machine of that size.

Are you thinking of motorising the knee or just the quill?

[Andre]

Hello everyone,
On Sunday I managed to partially disassemble the Beaver and to clean the table so it is presentable again.
I already had a ball-screw for the Z axis from a CNC mill that was refurbished.
And I am planning to change the X and Y axes with ball-screws as well.
Does anybody know which are the best axial bearings with zero tolerance
and preloaded so that I don't need belleville washers.
I don't know what they use in real CNC mills as axial bearing.
Kind regards ,
Andre.

[wbleeker]

Good pics Andre! I think a lot of the blokes on here like Beavers especially John! I am sure he will chime in with some advice soon.
Will

[Andre]

On sunday I did some more work on it.
I removed the elecktricity so we can put some new on later.
Disassembled the turret and cleaned the coolant tank which was full off slurry . Dirty work it was.
We also discoverd a tag with an award from the Queen.
And as you can see the year is 1967 so I presume it is build in the same year.

[Andre]

On Wednesday I cleaned the body with prepaint and put some paint on it.
yesterday we cleaned some parts off the turret.
Today we did some milling on the ram so if at a later date I want to make a toolchange or something else than there is already a plane and holes to bolted it on.
also on the rear I made some holes to connect a high speed motor.
Later today we painted the turred and started some milling on the table console .

[Tom]

Hi Andre,

That is some serious equipment! Thankyou for sharing this project with us - I will be reading along with interest...

[Andre]

Hello Tom,
Serious jobs demands serious equipment.
It is not always easy when you only have small machines.
Yet many of you are also making beautiful pieces with small machines .

[Andre]

Last week I had a lot of work with scraping the verticale slider mounting surface. on the link below you can see real pro's at work.
http://www.moriseiki.com/dixi/english/company/scraping.html
I did some assembling from the turret.And I found a protection for the Z axis.

[Andre]

Hello everyone,
Today I did the scraping of the X axis.
I've needed the whole day for it and tomorrow I will also have a few hours
to do before it is ready.

[Andre]

I'm still not done scraping on the X axis it takes more time than I thought
anyway I continue until everything is straight.
This week I am planning to order the servo's This week from Zapp automation
I think the set servo motors from 1000 watt hopefully they are strong enough

[Tom]

It's looking good Andre,

I've never owned a machine with hand-scraped surfaces - will do soon though I hope. Just out of interest, the X axis bearing surfaces look quite long (it looks maybe 1500mm?). What are you using as a flatness reference to scrape this surface?

[Andre]

Hi Tom,
It is 1400 mm long and I have a special tool that I can use .
I will tomorrow make a picture and show you.

[Andre]

Tom ,
This is the tool that I talk about .
There are many shapes and designs available.
Or if you are in possession of a flat table, you can make one yourself.
Are you planning to scrape your own machine?
I can only say one thing "patience"

[Tom]

Hi Andre,

Thanks for the pics. Actually I was just curious about how to stabilise the flatness over such a long and thin shape. Of course a triangular section is obvious to me now! :)

My machines do not yet deserve scraping. In the UK we have a phrase "making a silk purse out of a sow's ear". It means that I could try for a long time with lots of sewing to turn a cow's ear into a silk purse. In the end, maybe it would look a bit like a silk purse. But actually it would always be a sow's ear!

It's the same with my cheap lathe! :) I'll save the scraping for another lathe...

I had thought about making a small flatness reference by scraping 3 plates into each other - but that would take a long time too!

[Andre]

I have spent the last days designing the axial bearings

and have done research for which

configuration I am going to use.
I had first thought of using a ZARN type of bearing .

But they were too expensive .
So I made my own a design with two axial needle bearings and one radial needle bearing.

Then I have the same result as the ZARN bearing.
I can preload them as I want.
Today I received the CNC handwheel.

[Andre]

Hello everyone,
We finally have finished scraping bearing surfaces on the X axis.
I decided to start from the basics because I had discovered that the table
was bend at the ends about 0.4mm on both sides.
I will show pictures of what I did to get it right.
Maybe something that someone can use it for his own project.
The first thing I did was to facemilling the carrier.
Then I milled the pigeons tail .
Then I finished it on the granite block with the scraper.
So this is straigth.
I will show you the tools aswell.
1 small scraper and 2 larger tools.

[Andre]

Then I focused my attention on the table and have them placed on the milling table with a hoist because it weigh about 150kg and that is a bit heavy to manually manipulate.But first I have them measured and marked points with the correct height and recorded them on the piece.
I then aligned them both height and direction .
Next I face milled both sides and the top because the top surface was not straight olso.
After aligning the table under the correct angle with a 3d measurment device I milled the pigion tail .
Later I scraped the surfaces again .
The end result is a maximum of 20 microns difference over the full distance 1420 mm
both the flat faces and the pigion taile.
For checking the flatness I used a clock and a triangle block for scraping and for the pigion taile a micrometer and 2 cilinders .
And I use for scraping the Prussian bleu oilpaint to see what I did
otherwise you will not know where to remove matarial.

[Andre]

this is the triangle schape

[bambuko]

Thank you for great report and pictures.
I am enjoying it immensely even though I know that I will never be able to do the same for my Bridgeport :sad: (not enough skill and no access to the kit you have).
Look forward to CNC Beaver :clap:
Chris

[Andre]

I'm glad you find it useful chris .That is why we do it .
In the past I have often made use of forums for my projects and am happy to give something back now I am working on a project.
Thanks for the feedback chris.

[Andre]

I found a nice link about how to make a leadscrew cover yourself .
www.ixen-cnc.com
Only I do not know what to use as material.
Has anyone a Suggestion?
Readily available and inexpensive.

[Tom]

I'm glad you find it useful chris .That is why we do it .
In the past I have often made use of forums for my projects and am happy to give something back now I am working on a project.
Thanks for the feedback chris.

I definitely agree with this sentiment. :clap:


I found a nice link about how to make a leadscrew cover yourself .
www.ixen-cnc.com

Andre, I made one of those covers for my mini-lathe once. In the end I didn't use it, but it was a very interesting excercise in origami! Definitely try with paper first! It was tricky!
I used some plastic from a craft shop (about the thickness of the thickest plastic wallets you can buy from the stationary shop). For your big machine you would need something thicker, but be careful that it will not crack while flexing.

I am just thinking out loud - you could also cut the flat areas from thin metal, and use thin neoprene, or canvas for the hinges.

[Andre]

Hi Tom
This is maybe a good idea but I think using denim and saturated with epoxy
and then in a mold as it is almost cured so the hinges can still be well formed
but in any case a good idea
Kind regards.
Andre

[Andre]

Hello Everyone,
Eureka finally done with scraping I was almost thinking this is the never ending storie
all that scraping.
In any case, it ended well and everything is within the predefined tolerance 20 micron for the X axis 10 micron for the Y axis and 15 micron for the Z axis
I think that meets my requirements.
Good advice for everyone who enters the challenge of schraping
are aware that it will take longer as you think!!!!
It is like the medieval monks and the scriptures that they have made.
Now I can finally begin on other components
Kind regards,
Andre

[Lee Roberts]

Looking forward to the new pics Andre !

[Lee Roberts]

I am just thinking out loud - you could also cut the flat areas from thin metal, and use thin neoprene, or canvas for the hinges.

I have looked into this as well Tom, liking the idea of thin metal for the flat areas, what about some sort of sticky tape or sticky cloth tape to make the hinges and join it all togther :cool: ?

[dickieto]

hello andre
just a note to thank you for such a detailed build thread:clap::clap::clap:
as i am just an agricultural engineer, could you tell me more about "scraping" is it to take high spots of of surface if so how do you find them engineer blue?
i am facinated at the work you have put into your mill and i would love the knowledge you have.
I'll just keep repairing tractors with my big hammer:heehee:
:beer: Tom

[ptjw7uk]

Scraping is used to get any surface flat using engineers blue and an other flat surface, the one you scrape will end up as good as the flat you use.
Hand scraped surface plates are made in 3's, done in a round robin mode which is reputed to give the flattest plate available but at a very high cost!

Peter

[Andre]

This is explained corect by Peter.
The flat that I use is first checked on a granite measuring block as you can see on the previous picture 's.
Here is the latest series of photographs of the scraping.
As you can see the final scraping is for the oil .
I've scraped the sides of the Y axis but I forgot to take photographs.
I wish the best for the new year to everyone that you have a creative year.
Kind regards ,
Andre

[Andre]

Since everybody likes photos,here some pictures of the changes to the knee.
Important is a good arrangement of the workpiece and a proper alignment so the error margin is as small as possible.
It is important that you make a plan off attack .
A strategy of how to start your project which consists at first of making a list that says what all needs to be adjusted and which alterations you want.

[Andre]

In this case I want some adjustments related to central lubrication system because original grease was used instead of oil to lubricate so therefore
it is necessary to drill new channels.
Also to support the Y ballscrew it is necessary to make an opening where a custom bearinghousing can be mounted.
Also a balancing weight is needed to support the weight of the knee to compensate otherwise I think the servo motor will not long survive the abuse.http://www.google.be/images/cleardot.gifhttp://www.google.be/images/cleardot.gif

[Andre]

The last week was one of heavy lifting the maneuvering of the heavy component was not always easy if you are working alone two hands are not always enough
and you must improvise.
The next thing I do is start going to make the smaller components.
Do You want pictures of the parts alone, or also the making of the parts themselves ?
Kind regards ,
Andrehttp://www.google.be/images/cleardot.gif

[Andre]

Hello everyone,
Today I started machining the first part of three which the servo motor of the Z axis will hold.
The first part is the base plate which directly on the knee is assembled.
I prepared the pocket to fit the base plate previously.
containing 6 M8 holes and two 8H7 holes for clevis pins to keep everything in place.
I used a piece of aluminum quality 1.6082 T6 ( T6 is the treatment the aluminum received) so it is good for milling.
First I put my vise on the table and aligned it properly .
Than i machined it in the proper order in this case first the bigger side
than I turned it around and put a cylindrical piece between the part and the vise so it will be square and did one small side.
Then I did the facemilling on the second small face also with the cylindrical piece.
and after that the second bigger plane and OK.
After that i took an endmill and did the milling off one side .

[Andre]

I want the edges to be round so i am going to mill some rounds on the corners.
The first thing i will do is make two small center drill holes on the positions off the center off the radius.
But first i have to choose a workpiece zero point.
There are several ways to find an edge you can use a piece of paper ,a cylindrical piece off metal which is painted with a color marker ,, or a wiggler center finder is a tool used in the spindle of a machine such as a mill. The device is used to accurately determine edges or markings and therefore the center of a workpiece or a previously machined feature during the set-up phase of a machining operation.There are also several 3d edge finders mechanical and elektronic.Here are a few .

[Andre]

Now I will locate the center off my milling table and make it zero X and Y on the DRO because I can use my table as a rotary table (so if you have a rotary table the result is the same) if it is done I put my workpiece on top of it and use pointed pin to find the previous drilled center holes.
If done so see that the vise is fixed .
I use a roughmill first and later an enmill for finish the rounds.

[Andre]

After the rounds I rough out the slab and finished whit an end mill later I made two chamfers by rotating the table 45 degrees.
After that I drilled the holes and OK
Thats all for today.

[dickieto]

Hi Andre
great pictures,i greatly admire the job you are doing to your mill:clap:
you must have put in a lot of man hours!!
just a quick question when scraping the slides how did you get both sides to match as you would not have been able to sit your straight edge directly onto them because of the dove tail?
might seem like a silly question but i was just curious as i am no enginner:redface:
:beer:Tom

[Andre]

Hello Tom,
first of all there are no stupid questions.
We started with the support for the table .
As you can see on the pictures first I have the upper surface with a facemill straightened and next the dove tail .
I started scraping this section and than after the milling on the table I checked how far off straight she was on my granite measurement block (1,5m*1m)
as you can see with a dialtester and after scraping and measuring I used the support it self to check for flatness until within the tolerance.
Is that what you wanted to know?http://www.google.be/images/cleardot.gif
Kind regards ,
Andre

[dickieto]

hi andre
thanks for the explanation now i understand:naughty:
you should write a book on this for any others out there considering doing the same job:heehee::heehee:
keep up the great work
:smile:Tom

[josteurs]

Great pic's Andre? Following your project with special intrests, soon no more good beavers to find on the second hand market anymore .... ;-)

[Andre]

Here we are again,
Last week has been busy and have not don as much as I wanted.
But now I've made the design for the Z axis bearing configuration.
As you can see on the drawing .
So tomorrow I can start the making of the parts.:dance:

[ptjw7uk]

How are you going to limit backlash in the bevel gears or is this just an adjustment drive?

Peter

[Andre]

Hello Peter,
On one side there will be the timing pulley and the other side is the ballscrew.
The bevel gears I have are helical bevel gears (the original BEAVER) and I will adjust them with spacers so that slack will be no more.
Kind regards .
Andre

[Andre]

Hello everyone,
Here are a series of pictures of how a component from the Z axis is machined.
This part is made of steel and it is one of the more complex parts I need.
The series pics are self explanatory.
And in the right order.

[Andre]

More photo's

[Andre]

Tip drawing the outline on the workpiece itself so you can see what ultimately the part will be.
Also as much material will be removed make sure that there is material left
to machine after the biggest piece is removed because the workpiece will deform by tensions in the material.

[Andre]

For the rounds I use a rotary table (my machine table is a rotary table ass well)

[Andre]

Tip use a rough mill where possible.
An for finishing I use an endmill.

[Andre]

Tip; always align the workpiece properly .

Tip; My way of making a part is not the only way there are many ways to get the result you want. This is only one of them.
The rest of the pictures are coming soon.
Kind regards,
Andre

[Andre]

Here are the latest photo's of this part

[Andre]

And even more photo's .

[Andre]

And then finished part.
Hope you have enjoyed yourself while watching the part growing.

I definitely.
Kind regards ,

Andrehttp://www.google.be/images/cleardot.gif

[Andre]

Now just wait for the next parts.

[Wobblybootie]

superb photos, but that is not a machine you are building ... it's a work of art!!

[Lee Roberts]

Looking great Andre !

[dickieto]

hi andre
great pictures of build keep up the good work..
you have inspired me into buying a milling machine,just picked up a parkson 2n mill with lot of collets and cutters:yahoo:,machine was still wired up and working when i bought it.
have you ever heard of this make and are they any good??
it has a horizontal spindle as well as a vertical spindal could i fit a small lathe chuck to this to do small turning jobs??
as i am a novice to machining any help would be appreciated
:beer:Tom..

[Andre]

Hello Tom,
it looks like it is a good solid machine.(pictures???)
And if you have questions about how to make stuff just ask if we can help we will do so if possible.
Kind regards ,
Andre

[dickieto]

hi andre
here are some pictures of my parkson mill don't have it wired up yet.
.177417731772177117701769176817671766
cheers Tom..

[Andre]

That looks good Tom now you can start your own build log if you rebuild this one.
Ps: The next set pictures from my beavermill will come soon.
Kind regards,
Andre

[Lee Roberts]

Cant wait !

[Andre]

Hello here we are again.
After a number of other urgent matters I had to make do, I can focus my attention back to the beaver mill.
The first thing I did was the existing ball crew adjusted to the new situation,
Starting with the removal of the hardened layer on the lathe.http://www.google.be/images/cleardot.gif
http://www.google.be/images/cleardot.gif

[Andre]

After removing the hard layer I put on a steady rest (A support that is clamped to the bed of a lathe,
used when machining a long workpiece. Sometimes
called a center rest.).
And then I flipped the piece and cut the rest matriaal
off.
But first I have the chuck jaws to suit the ball screw,I have a number of different sizes of washers to put between the jaws to support them during turning .I turn them to the right dimension in this case 40 mm so I will not damage the part. After cutting off the exes material I make a new center whit a center drill.

[Andre]

Then I removed the steady rest and the finished part and Put On Some tread for the nut and make a groove for a circlips I am using a caliper to measure the tread

[Andre]

Next thing we did is making the key way and two flat sides ,
I always measuring key ways rectangular pockets with precise gauge blocks

[Andre]

Now we make the nut.
As you can see, you can use a ball bearing for centering the workpiece.

[Andre]

After turning we are going to mill.

[Andre]

Later on we have made several small parts but we do not have pictures of everything because they are simple parts to make.

[Andre]

We have adjusted the part of the base to the ball screw so they can be mounted together.http://www.google.be/images/cleardot.gif

[Andre]

Now we have turned the timing wheels and put in some key ways

[Andre]

Here some pictures from the small axis made of stainless steel

[Andre]

Here some pictures of all the parts.

[Andre]

We have also worked on the engine mount

[Andre]

A while ago I ordered servo motors and drives from Zapp Automation
with 1600 watt and 6 Nm torqeu (Permanent magnet synchronous AC servo motor of sine-wave drive.)

[Andre]

I also ordered at ONECNC a cam package I chose the ONECNC XR4 millAdvantage so I hope the beaver mill will be operational as soon as posible
so we can make some chips I am looking forward to it.

[ptjw7uk]

Nice job Andre.
I wish these software sellers would list the price, just spent 10 wasted minutes trying to see how expensive the onecnc package you bought was, talk about the run around.
Not that I could aford it just like to know these things!


Peter

[John S]

Peter,
Entry level is listed at about a grand but I think you can get them down to the £750 mark but it's only 2 1/2D and no 4th axis.

[Andre]

Hello Peter.

If you would like to know the price you are advised to contact ONECNC and they will gladly help you out.
Kind regards.
Andre

[ptjw7uk]

Thanks for the info John.
Andre, thanks but not what I was getting at, I would like to know if it was worth looking at or is it out of my price bracket which it certainly is.
For a hobby and retirement the low hundreds can still be to pricey!
I much prefer free and lots of time learning, time I have money I dont.
Peter

[Damocles]

Thank you very much for the pictures and the explanation Andre!
I surelly learned a lot by looking how a real professional tackles the problem.

After seeing the beaver mill in real yesterday I surely didn't wanted to miss anything of the build!

For those who are waiting for more pictures, "The best has yet to come"!

Thanks again for the great coverage of the mill conversion.

Kind regars,

Julien

[Andre]

Hello everyone,
I've been busy lately but here are some more pictures of the build.
First I made some adjustments to the motor support
so I have enough room for the motor for the Z axis.2964

[Andre]

After making the assembly for the Z axis painting it was a pleasure.
I've chosen a black paint to get a two-tone effect.
On the picture we can also see the clamp that will be used for clamping the counterweight cable .

2965

[Andre]

Now I have some more to assemble.
I builded together the knee.
296629672968

[Andre]

Then I thought having not enough height in the Z so I started making a extension piece
that was faster said than done because I had a metal ring that was to smale on the outside and inside .
On te picture you see the ring when finished.

[Andre]

Here are some pictures of work on the extension piece

[Andre]

more pictures and movie links

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oh2SLCn7oCU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyT2VUvgcSo



have fun
Kind regards Andre

[Andre]

To assemble the extension piece on the turret I had to make bolts myself because I could not buy these bolts in a store.
A simple task if there is no hexagon slot in it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Knl7nubFTG0


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_MUeeXXBF4

[John S]

Probably too late now but just spent ages looking for a picture of a Bridgy owned by a guy in Canada ? who had built a horizontal drive into the riser

[Andre]

Hello John,
and did you found the photos you where looking for?
Kind regards,
Andre

[John S]

No I am still looking.
It was a tiny picture as it came off Craigs list when the machine was up for sale after the owners death.
It looked like a casting as the lower bolts were short ones and sunk into cast pockets at the side.
The head was part of a J head in that it used the spindle and quill and had the varispeed motor arrangement at the rear.

Still looking.

[Andre]

John with the riser you mean the Z axis i supposed ?
Because I did a complete redesign of it on my machine and if you want some more pictures I can provide.

[John S]

It was a conventional manual bridgy with nod and tilt head but it had a horizontal spindle thru the riser, front to back.

[Andre]

After the bolts were finished we put on the turret.

[Andre]

The next thing I wanted to do was rebuilding the spindle.
But first we had it disassembled.

[Andre]

And some more of the same.

[Andre]

And more pictures

[Andre]

This was part of the dismantling .
Now we going to modify it some and put it back together.

[Andre]

First measure the part and make some notes and later I made some extra holes in it to be used in a later stage for mounting a ring to get cooling on to the workpiece.

[Andre]

We have to make a new motor support because it is having a special flange

[Andre]

First we put the flange on the machine and made holes in it so we can use them later as a center for alignment for milling the arcs of the part.
And start with roughing .

[Andre]

After making sure the workpiece is in the center of the machine I started with
roughing the outer arc.

[Andre]

After that we are roughing the cylindrical section and then turn over the workpiece and cut away the biggest arc.
But first we made the small arc .

[Andre]

After finishing the outer arc the arc shaped slots ware made.

[Andre]

In a later stage the piece is taken in the chuck of my lathe.
The first operations are facing of and drilling .

[Andre]

With a other tool we made the chamber for the motor.

[Andre]

After turning over the workpiece the other side is machined .

[Andre]

Now the workpiece is going back to the milling machine and it is centered and holes ware made in to it so the motor can be attached .

[Andre]

In to the side of the flange a tapped hole is made to attach a handle for tightening the belt of the motor.

[Andre]

now the motor flange is ready for paint.

[Andre]

After painting this is the result.

[Andre]

Here are all the motors and the finished flange

[Andre]

Now the spindle is assembled with new bearings and new paint.
The motor is put on.
And this is the result of all this work.

[Andre]

Okay I hoop you can find something useful in it .
Until the next set of foto's are ready.
Kind regards ,
Andre.

[BillTodd]

That looks terrific Andre :)

(now you've finished using that old Maho, could you just pop it in jiffy bag and post it to me?:joker: )

[dickieto]

Amazing piece of work Andre.:tup:
as a beginner I can only watch on in awe and try and learn something from your build log.
keep up the great work,can't wait to see the finished result....
more videos please:naughty:
:beer: Tom...

[Andre]

I cant wait to see the result myself.

[AdCNC]

Super work there Andre. What control board are you using from your PC to the servo drives? i see you are using a pokeys for plenty of IO.

[Andre]

They told me it was an standard breakout board but I now not much of electronic and I have a friend who does that for me.

[Andre]

Hello guys (girls),
Here we are again.
It's been a while and in the meanwhile I got for my birthday an upgrade for my OneCNC cam module and got the Expert license now.
So now I can do everything in 3d ,designing and machining.
I'm so full of joy .

Andre.

Experience is the sum of stupidities you have done.

[Andre]

I have been working on the main spindle assembly.
I change it to a toothed drive pulley instead of a V belt.
But as I find out this is not as easy as it looks.
First I redesigning the assembly in my new CAD/CAM module.

[Andre]

The first thing I did was making the core pieces to combine the different pulleys together .

[Andre]

Next thing I did was drill the pulleys.

[Andre]

I had to make a groove in the soft jaws so the pulleys would fit in to it.
And turn it to the right dimension of my pulley.

[Andre]

It is very important centering the piece so the deviation is minimal in this case 0.02mm both in axial and radial direction.
The belt will run smooth and with less vibrations.

[Andre]

Now the workpiece is ready for ruffing out and finishing .

[Andre]

Measuring our workpiece is very important in this case I want to have about 0.02mm play so there will be enough space to glue everything together with a strong adhesive .

[Andre]

Now it is time for facing the workpiece and break sharp edges .
I find it one of the most important things a good machinist got to do (break sharp edges) so our workpiece looks as it coming out a factory and not looks like it came out of the bin.
Kind regards,
Andre.


Experience is the sum of stupidities you have done.

[Andre]

After we made a keyway in the core piece of the motor side we started to glue all the pieces together .

[Andre]

Now it is time for some drilling operations.
First thing to do is make sure your workpiece is correct centered .
The next thing I do is make a centerhole.
Drill with the right size so the holes who needs tapping also can be don.
And break sharp edges.

[Andre]

After we put in some pins with glue we put the assembly back on the lathe to remove the rest of the pins .

[Andre]

I checked if all the parts are proper aligned .

[Andre]

I made in both assembly a M 5 hole so I could glue a screw in it.
So things can not start to move .

[Andre]

Now it is time to assemble everything with new bearings and tryout the belt.

[Andre]

And some more.

[Andre]

We had to adjust the coverplate of the top bearing to get some space for the lock nuts.
I made the two nuts in a way that i can use a SKF wrench .
one the bottom nut I will connect the speed sensor .
I also had to make a spacer to adjust the height of the top bearing.
Kind regards,
Andre.


Experience is the sum of stupidities you have done.

[m_c]

After reading through this thread last night, I've got to say I'm very impressed!

[Andre]

Hello everyone,
I started also a new blog about this build on my own domain and then you will need no login to see the pictures and drawings.
There will also be more pictures and explanations as on MYCNCUK.
The blog will be up to date in a few days.
If you have questions about my build I will try to answer them on my blog.
The site is; http://www.4hobbycnc.be
I hope you find it interesting .
Kind regards,
Andre.
Experience is the sum of stupidities you have done.

[Peter_H]

Attn Andre :

Sorry to reply to such an old thread, but on page 10 and 11 of this thread you show manufacturer of the none standard motor base. I am in the situation where I have to replace the motor on my Beaver VBRP MkII and that flange is a big problem. I'm considering making a flange and mounting a standard, more modern, motor on it. My question - is there any chance you still have a drawing of the motor adaptor flange you made please. It would be most appreciated, thanks.

I guess there's a possibility that the flange does have a standard name, but I haven't seen one at all. Motor plate says :

Brook Motors
Frame DNV 164
Serial L625484
208-220 volts, 6.6 amps
440 volts, 3.3 amps
Full speed 1730 rpm
Cycles 60
Rating INT
HP 2.0


Peter