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GeorgeD
04-08-2010, 02:28 PM
Just bought this with a load of extras,the lathe is 8 months old....did I get a bargain :whistling::whistling:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cl300m-metal-lathe/path/metal-lathes-milldrills

Peter Griffin
04-08-2010, 07:51 PM
Depends how much you paid for it will determine whether its a bargain

GeorgeD
04-08-2010, 07:57 PM
I'll let ya know when it transpires first,Peter.

Can't go counting me chickens ect,ect :wink: watch this space.

routercnc
04-08-2010, 08:14 PM
Hi George,

It might be only 8 months old because I suspect the buyer outgrew it. The guys in the toolroom at work always tell me they like to do even the small stuff on big lathes because of the mass and rigidity. Still, let us know how it goes when you've had a play . . .

GeorgeD
04-08-2010, 08:28 PM
Well as much as I'd like a bigboys toy I really can't have one...simply because I wouldn't be able to get it in the cubby hole(workshop) we don't all have garages ya know.

HankMcSpank
04-08-2010, 08:46 PM
You need to factor in (wrt bargain or not) that Clarke lathes (as all their stuff) are typically more expensive like for like.

I much prefer the super C3 variant here ...

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathes/Model-C3-Mini-Lathe

GeorgeD
04-08-2010, 09:06 PM
How do HMS...unsinkable :smile:

The Clarke is exactly the same model as that C3 and other variants of this model.

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4100&category=1271799306

Axminster do it with their own name across it,so does the Taig.

GeorgeD
04-08-2010, 10:07 PM
I just compared the two there HMS,and the clarke has a better gear cluster and they're external gears ie easily accessed,whereas the AUT C3 has two gears(plastic) internal on the spindle shaft and gear change rod,this means if you wanted to change those plastic gears then you would have to strip it down and that means taking the back 62mm beairng off(not an easy feat).

Plus the motor has a higher spec.

John S
04-08-2010, 10:13 PM
I just compared the two there HMS,and the clarke has a better gear cluster and they're external gears ie easily accessed,whereas the AUT C3 has two gears(plastic) internal on the spindle shaft and gear change rod,this means if you wanted to change those plastic gears then you would have to strip it down and that means taking the back 62mm beairng off(not an easy feat).

.

??????????????????????????????????????????????

Please try doing some homework first.
The external gears are for screwcutting and the internal gears are the 2 speed high / low drive.
Both machines have the same gears, you just didn't bother to read and compare correctly.

The Taig lathe is a totally different animal, doesn't even look like the C3 mini lathe variation and is made solely by Taig in the USA.

.

GeorgeD
04-08-2010, 10:17 PM
The external gears are for screwcutting and the internal gears are the 2 speed high / low drive.
Both machines have the same gears, you just didn't bother to read and compare correctly.
Arc Euro quote
Quieter machine since spindle gears no longer required

MHS was on about the C3 the above quote is for the Supec3 which is the same as the clarke.

I'll have anothe gander at the Taig now?

GeorgeD
04-08-2010, 10:21 PM
Sorry it was the Microlux not the Taig. :redface:

Swarfing
04-08-2010, 10:24 PM
Plastic gears don't not always mean poorer quality either it can mean a much quieter lathe? Look at the big Kerry lathes they have two and thats on pro kit

HankMcSpank
04-08-2010, 10:25 PM
wrt to ArcEurotrade C3 'wins' over the Clarke C3, I was more thinking of the more powerful Motor (500W), longer bed, the leadscrew cover (I have an Axminster C2 mini lathe & the crud on the leadscrew gets right on me tits) .....then there's the Cam locking Tailstock (which would set you back another thirty quid) ....all those improvements for 35 less than the older variant Clarke sells for.

GeorgeD
04-08-2010, 10:32 PM
wrt to ArcEurotrade C3 'wins' over the Clarke C3Well they would say that wouldn't he....otherwise he'd lose a sale.lol

The superC3 is the Clarke model as well.

Anyway hows your tits? :wink:

If all goes to plan (legs and fingers crrossed) its less than half the price of a new one. :whistling:

irving2008
04-08-2010, 11:48 PM
There are many minilathes on ebay, Warco, Chester, Axminster, Seig, Clarke etc... given that the best 'new' price is about 360 for the 350mm 400W version with a 4" chuck (forget the 3" ones, you cant use the full spindle bore). Throw in a 4-jaw and steady and some tools and your looking at 480 delivered... a secondhand one, year or so old is typically 250-300 (mine was at the lower end of that), tho you get people asking nearly new prices... but they rarely sell. Anything less than 300W (there are 150 and 250W ones) is a waste of money. MachineMart are way overpriced compared to others... for the same product.

As to size... I've not outgrown mine yet, tho its come close on one or two jobs...

GeorgeD
05-08-2010, 12:08 AM
Its 250,30 of that is shipping and it has everything I need without going out and buying stuff for it.

2xrest different ones
3xcentersplus arbor
1xarbour and chuck
1xbox of cutters
1xbox of drill bits

Various other pieces.

danielbriggs
05-08-2010, 03:38 AM
Sorry if this is *totally* the wrong place for this. (I will make a proper thread in the selling corner in due course)...
But if you're interested I'll be selling my Seig C3 with dual digital readouts, and digital spindle speed readout in the next week or so. URGENTLY need the space to put my CNC in it's place.
Unit is a few months old <10 hours on it I reckon!
(I spent longer stripping it down, cleaning, tuning and tinkering with it than I actually did using it to machine parts!!) :eek:

Bought from Arc EuroTrade, will include various bells and whistles, ANDthe extra bearings for swapping out in the headstock if you want... (I never got around to swapping them)
Can deliver to Liverpool/Manchester/Nottingham region depending on times.
Not going to ask the world of for it, sad to see it go so soon - but REALLY can't afford the space and to keep it.

Ta,
Dan


Edit: Forgot to mention: It has the quick change tool post and a load of tools too etc...

GeorgeD
05-08-2010, 04:05 AM
Send me a PM,Dan.

Will let you know tomorrow depending on this one if it transpires.

Cheers

GeorgeD
05-08-2010, 03:12 PM
I looked up the guys address where the lathe was coming from on Google street view,and when I turned around after seeing the house I seen a model shop :surprised: the model shop was directly facing the house where the guy lives across the square.

Bit of a coincidence that ain't it?


Sad thing is it won't get here till monday now due to him not meeting the deadline at 1400 collection...bu**er.

GeorgeD
05-08-2010, 05:10 PM
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350382069731&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:GB:1123

irving2008
05-08-2010, 11:37 PM
good bargain.... get a quick change toolpost from HarryUK123 on ebay, you'll not regret it compared to the standard toolpost..

GeorgeD
06-08-2010, 05:50 AM
How do Irving.

Until the lathe is sitting here on my table then I'll be over the moon,but since the money went through all suspicions are very high now ie the guy was playing for time when I was about to transfer paypal money.

Basically this will not arrive monday now but tuesday,if it arrives? he had ample time to contact the collection courier but this is were the stalling game came into play and it was at this point that suspicions became aroused.

As for Harryuk123 sorry but won't be buying from him anymore due to the spindle he sold me.

The spindle was supposed to be new,the spindle was in a terrible state,rusted in the bore and had markings on the shaft where a previous bearing had been located.

irving2008
06-08-2010, 10:40 AM
As for Harryuk123 sorry but won't be buying from him anymore due to the spindle he sold me..

Your choice, I've always had exemplary service and goods from him... for me, one incident doesn't rule them out, sometimes suppliers get caught out by their supply chain, stuff arrives wrapped and boxed..they dont inspect every single item unless someone draws it to their attention - its how they deal with it that differentiates a good supplier from a bad one...

GeorgeD
06-08-2010, 11:13 AM
Irving,I sent him two or three emails asking him did he want to come to some arrangement ie drop the price a bit or send me an item for the dropped price.

He ignored all contact to alleviate the problem,the spindle came wrapped in waxed brown paper,only would have taken a minute to unravel and check it out.

His communication is poor, his 3 ebay negs will vouch for that.

irving2008
06-08-2010, 12:53 PM
Irving,I sent him two or three emails asking him did he want to come to some arrangement ie drop the price a bit or send me an item for the dropped price.

He ignored all contact to alleviate the problem,the spindle came wrapped in waxed brown paper,only would have taken a minute to unravel and check it out.

His communication is poor, his 3 ebay negs will vouch for that.3 negs out of 3000? I think sometimes its too easy to be hyper-critical when you've never done it yourself... in a small organisation it only takes someone to be off sick a few days for a backlog to build up, and with online we expect instant response when in reality it might take a few days to work out what the issue is, contact the original supplier, decide on an action and reply. And you know what, sometimes the customer isn't right... (and I speak from personal experience as a major online retailer)

GeorgeD
06-08-2010, 01:31 PM
After neglected emails I did phone him up and his response was NO to the request...send it back for a refund with the loss of my P&P return,that is not right its not my fault and I should be fully reimbursed with returns carriage.

John S
06-08-2010, 02:04 PM
99% of the general public are fine but you always get one twat that expects a Rolls Royce for a mini price.

Gert sells on Ebay and one of the items she used to sell were Myford oilers, she used to go to Myfords, buy 30 or 40 at a time, take them out of the original packing which was Chinese and not Myford packaging, rebox them in plain boxes and sell them.

Anyway one day one set slipped thru the net and was sent out in the Chinese boxes, the guy was most indignant.

"I want my money back, I don't want this crap and I'm going to Myfords to buy a genuine set "

We didn't have the heart to tell him.

GeorgeD
06-08-2010, 02:43 PM
99% of the general public are fine but you always get one twat that expects a Rolls Royce for a mini price.

Excuse me,if you want to be conned into accepting used gear sold as new then thats fine,but don't expect others to do the same thing.

Wobblybootie
06-08-2010, 07:13 PM
In this instance I am ignoring my own belief in free speech.

OK I have had enough. GeorgeD I am struggling to understand you. In the space of a couple of weeks you have had a go at Gary (Zapp), Harry123 that you bought a spindle from, you are doubting the guy you may or may not have bought a lathe from plus God knows who else.

Half of your posts are nothing more than verbal diarrhoea. You do not appear to have the ability to understand the unsubtle hints to wind your neck in, even when delivered with all the tact of a nuclear air strike.

If you find this offensive, good!!, it means something may well have registered in whatever occupies your cranial cavity. I can only hope that you learn from the experience!!

I have no specialist knowledge, no CNC experience or anything that the Forum will miss ... if the Moderators decide my membership should be curtailed then so be it.

I have enjoyed being part of this community.

Thank You.

Ross77
06-08-2010, 07:18 PM
Here, Here, I agree.

Tom
06-08-2010, 07:40 PM
Ditto,

George, 8 posts a day for most of a month is fine, if they're contributing to the forum. If there were 5 people on this forum with a similar attitude (post now, think later), the whole place would be unreadable, and I wouldn't have time to sift through the rubbish to find what I need, so I wouldn't be a member.

A note of caution if you've truly been messed about by a seller is (possibly) fair enough (if you've got the time, and you really think others are likely to encounter the same problem). A one-man personal attack against an ebay seller is not a valuable contribution.
George, please post some of your pictures, and make some more valuable (and positive) contributions. Quality not quantity.

End of rant.

GeorgeD
10-08-2010, 12:27 PM
New toy arrived....Oh dear...you just cannot trust the packer as it was terribly packed...but on the other hand the box was upside down in the van.

:cry:

GeorgeD
10-08-2010, 02:13 PM
Hmmm! have not done a service on this because it looks as if it needs one.

Seems the person who put this together was in a rush to use it? one of the gear clusters is damaged(LargeOne)it was wobbling out of true on the shaft(needs replacing but the lathe still works.
The crack in the housing in the pic is not a real problem but its just that annoying feeling you get when an item of this ilk is poorly packed,the guy said he thought he'd packed it well lol :thumbdown: and as stated the box/lathe was upside down in the van~(label says this way up please) on the top so I can't leave all the blame with the sender.

Bit noisy,are they noisy in general?

:wink:

irving2008
10-08-2010, 02:28 PM
no, mine runs near silent... They come with the gear clusters pre-installed, the only thing that is in the bag to be installed are the actual changewheels. I dont see how a cluster can be out of true on a shaft... suggests the shaft is bent.. maybe from the impact on the gear cover in transit? Incidentally these ship new bolted to the base of a wooden box...

I notice the year/batch code is 05/K... how does that tally with 'only a year old'?

GeorgeD
10-08-2010, 02:39 PM
Hi Irving

Hmmm! year batch didn't look at that.

Took the gear cog off and its definatly the bore ie the person must have hammered? it on because the damage indicates the pin on the shaft didn't line up with the cogs pin cutout,Im summizing he's changed the gears for the threading gears at one time and hasn't relocated the main gear cog properly?

Well its not that noisy just whirring noise.

irving2008
10-08-2010, 03:32 PM
Possibly main headstock gears running dry... see the LittleMachineShop user guide (http://littlemachineshop.com/Info/MiniLatheUsersGuide.pdf) (an excellent resource) for how to lube them without removing/dismantling the headstock...

GeorgeD
10-08-2010, 10:31 PM
Thanks Irving.

Had a bit of an headache earlier so went for a snooze.

Another question if you will,the crossslide feed handle and the dial are very loose is this normal? does it click per each segement of applied cut?

BillTodd
11-08-2010, 12:01 AM
Just bought this with a load of extras,the lathe is 8 months old....did I get a bargain :whistling::whistling:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cl300m-metal-lathe/path/metal-lathes-milldrills

Doesn't look like it :(

GeorgeD
11-08-2010, 12:26 AM
What,Bill...I didn't get a bargain? or its not as new as they say it is?

Despite 30 carriage at 220 it was worth it,the crack in the case is really superficial and an aluminium plate screwed/glued? over it will suffice,the cog is buttons to replace.

irving2008
11-08-2010, 01:10 AM
Thanks Irving.

Had a bit of an headache earlier so went for a snooze.

Another question if you will,the crossslide feed handle and the dial are very loose is this normal? does it click per each segement of applied cut?

no,there's no click, it needs adjusting... read the guide I linked to earlier... they loosen up with age and need tightening from time to time....sometimes the cross slide loosens because too heavy a cut has been attempted and the tool has dug in... tho with only 300W that less of an issue, the motor stalls out if you try too hard.

BTW, do not rely on the cross-slide markings for any degree of accuracy.... they are only good in a relative sense.... always measure the workpiece....

GeorgeD
11-08-2010, 03:05 AM
Thanks Irving.

All sussed now,theres a little tensioning plate spring recessed in the shaft under the dial, a little bending of the tensioner plate and its gone a bit stiffer now.:clap:

GeorgeD
11-08-2010, 11:50 AM
Lathe is allnice and clean now,but I want to swap over the chuck and spindle size to the larger size I have and use the smaller chuck possibly as a fourth axis?

Problem is I don't have a press to remove the bearings fom the stock casting,any ideas folks? short of buying a bearing puller?.

irving2008
11-08-2010, 12:16 PM
Go find a local gearbox repair place, they should have a suitable press.. and they can push the new ones in for you, keeping them properly square... bearing puller is fine for wheel hubs etc, but not for precision bearings...

GeorgeD
12-08-2010, 03:41 AM
When boring,does one maintain the same height as per outside turning ie center the tip of the tool for middle or just below middle of the workpiece?

GeorgeD
12-08-2010, 08:29 AM
Whiplash from overhaning rod sticking out the back end of the spindle,how do you overcome this?

irving2008
12-08-2010, 09:25 AM
When boring,does one maintain the same height as per outside turning ie center the tip of the tool for middle or just below middle of the workpiece?yes you do

irving2008
12-08-2010, 09:28 AM
Whiplash from overhaning rod sticking out the back end of the spindle,how do you overcome this?
turn up a close fitting tapered sleeve the you insert in the end of the spindle.... for very long pieces an additional steady is needed (I used the fixed steady mounted on a lump of wood and clamped in my workmate)

GeorgeD
12-08-2010, 09:43 AM
Cheers,Irving.

I wasn't sure about using a sleeve loaded in the spindles rear,I'll cut a bit of broom handle off her indoors broom,she won't fly around as fast then. lol
:wink:

Whats the stronger material Delrin or Nylon? going to purchase some on ebay to account for this type of scenario.

irving2008
12-08-2010, 10:08 AM
Cheers,Irving.

I wasn't sure about using a sleeve loaded in the spindles rear,I'll cut a bit of broom handle off her indoors broom,she won't fly around as fast then. lol
:wink:

Whats the stronger material Delrin or Nylon? going to purchase some on ebay to account for this type of scenario.all depends on what you plan to do...delrin is harder wearing and the better engineering plastic generally, Nylon is cheaper... Nylon is good for rollers and stuff where friction is low but there's not much sliding movement... delrin is the better choice for things such as leadscrew nuts where there is a trade off between friction and wear...

GeorgeD
12-08-2010, 11:43 AM
Its only for the rear spindle inserts for a couple of different sized longish bars to stop the whiplash.

Just turned this threaded rod down from 12mm to 10mm for the bearing,chuffed I am... don't want to push it on all the way just yet as the end bit needs a screwthread on it tolockthe bearing in place,mind you it doesn't really need it as the bearing is a tight fit.

Forgotto say,this is stainless steel.

GeorgeD
13-08-2010, 02:43 PM
Will have to make a guard for over the apron wheel...or its a case of ow,ow...ow...ow

due to little hot pieces of metal hitting me hand. lol

John S
13-08-2010, 04:17 PM
wimp...................................

irving2008
13-08-2010, 04:52 PM
Its only for the rear spindle inserts for a couple of different sized longish bars to stop the whiplash.

Just turned this threaded rod down from 12mm to 10mm for the bearing,chuffed I am... don't want to push it on all the way just yet as the end bit needs a screwthread on it tolockthe bearing in place,mind you it doesn't really need it as the bearing is a tight fit.

Forgotto say,this is stainless steel.Seems to me George you need to practice some more on other materials and learn something about feed rates, depth of cut and surface finish... that shaft shouldn't be scored like that, it should near mirror finish like the outside of the bearing...... I hope you weren't using the apron wheel to traverse the cut and were using either the topslide or, better still , the powered feed...

GeorgeD
13-08-2010, 05:04 PM
What part of the shaft are we talking here,Irving? if its the part where the bearing is seated then thats the threaded part ie I can't turn down anymore as the bearings bore is 10mm and as it stands now is perfect fit with a thou difference to accomodate forcing the bearing on.

If its the end part? then it doesn't matter as I stated it will be threaded for a locking nut

GeorgeD
15-08-2010, 02:38 PM
What size tooling is the norm for these mini lathes? fed up trying to get the dead center height...the 3/8 are nearest but the height is marginally over center.:mad:

irving2008
15-08-2010, 08:41 PM
Thats why you need a QCTP, its easy to set the height... and 8mm is the norm and then shim it... 3/8" is 10mm and is marginally too big unless you use a QCTP...

GeorgeD
17-08-2010, 01:27 AM
Hi Irving.

I'll be using 10mm shank tools from wendsday.took it into a local machine shop to have 3thou taken off the sole of the toolpost...he's only charging me a tenner. :dance:

irving2008
17-08-2010, 11:31 AM
Don't forget the the tip location varies from tool to tool... even if you skim the footplate (which is what I did on my larger lathe so i could use modern 16mm cutters instead of 5/8"), you will still have to shim on a tool by tool basis. Thats why a QCTP is such a time saver.. one clamp block per tool and then you can swap them around without resetting the height.

GeorgeD
17-08-2010, 11:36 AM
Well,when one of my bets comes in I'll continue to suffer to change bits,until then monitary funds are low...well at least thats what she says. :whistling:

GeorgeD
19-08-2010, 12:20 PM
My first serious piece on the mini lathe...the rail mounts,this is only one...need 3 more for the bed.
Not too bad methinks,bore diameter is spot on...only need to drill four equal holes around the shoulder. :dance:

267926802681http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/images/misc/pencil.png

routercnc
19-08-2010, 02:03 PM
Hi George,

If you have enough material on the flange, you could drill the hole spacing to match commercial clamps (shown below), leaving yourself the option of upgrading if these plastic ones are not stiff enough.

GeorgeD
19-08-2010, 02:35 PM
How do RCNC,

Below is a pic of how they will be mounted, the bed will be 60mmx25mmx3mm wall,mild steel box section.

The flange will fit through a 25mm hole in the 60mm wide part of the box section and the shoulder will either be held in place by 4x nut&bolts or self tapping screws? the little red boxes are 2x grub screws and the rail counter sunk to accept those grubs.

2683

GeorgeD
21-08-2010, 12:40 PM
Need to pick your brains,Irving

I'm not getting a good face cut on the ends of steel,its all rough banding.
The tool is dead center height...I have a feeling the saddle is moving as I try face cut the rod?

irving2008
21-08-2010, 12:45 PM
what tool, how far out from chuck, what diameter rod, what spindle speed... and did you lock the saddle to the leadscrew?

GeorgeD
21-08-2010, 01:02 PM
The tool is about 20mm out of the toolpost and is slightly angled to the face of 16mm stainless steel rod.

Speed? well can't give you exact speed in RPM but the dial is pointing at 10 o'clock position I'd say about 400 to 500 RPM?

No didn't lock the saddle up :redface:

Sorry about the noise on the pics,seems I pic noise up in the camera when using standard batteries and its ok when I use rechargable...most odd?

28122811http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/images/misc/pencil.png

irving2008
21-08-2010, 02:49 PM
well locking the saddle to the leadscrew is a must, tho a proper saddle lock is better (nice little weekend project to make and fit - works similar to the tailstock camlock... unless of course you've not made one of those yet). Most of your problem there is probably that, tho movement of the cross-slide on its gib might also be a factor if the gibs aren't properly adjusted.

You need somewhere between 600 and 800rpm for that diameter/material, its actually 560 at the outer edge but increasing rpm as you go in, so 1120 at the 10mm mark, so take an average as you can't easily change spindle speed on the fly.

With stainless you need to be taking a very light cut and use lots of coolant and a newly sharpened tool. I can't easily tell from the pic as the tool tip is out of focus but it doesnt look too healthy.

GeorgeD
21-08-2010, 02:55 PM
Hi Irving

Light cuts ya say? anything thicker than a piece of paper and I sh*t me pants. :eek::wink:

GeorgeD
21-08-2010, 09:50 PM
Hi Irving
Been watching a few vids on youtube about face cutting,noticed a couple of guys using a tool going across the face with the toolpost directly in front of the piece and they used the same technique for side turning.

Is that the norm or should I just use a face tool and go into the piece with the flat of the tool.

here's the vid....


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yaoMP8jdMWM&feature=related

irving2008
22-08-2010, 02:14 AM
thats the technique I use. tbh it doesnt matter where the toolpost is, but you should always go for the shortest overhang of the tool, so running it square gives you that. You will notice in the video that there is still a rake on the tool, its not flat to the work, there is a nose that cuts and it'll have been honed slightly round to get a good finish... As a general rule I keep my toolpost square to the work and ensure the tool tip is correctly angled on all sides, but then I use HSS tools not premanufactured carbide ones.

GeorgeD
22-08-2010, 12:20 PM
I was thinking of grinding my own tools ie just the facing,turning and parting off ones,the boring ones I have bought in the index replacable tip type.

Would these be suitable,Irving....
http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/Special_Offer_packs_of_5__reduced_prices_.html

FatFreddie
22-08-2010, 02:05 PM
The tool is about 20mm out of the toolpost and is slightly angled to the face of 16mm stainless steel rod.
Just a thought - what are you using to shim the tool - it needs to be something uncompressible like steel strip - hard to tell what it is in the picture.

If you can't get it exactly to hight, err on the low side rather than the high.

GeorgeD
22-08-2010, 02:53 PM
How do FF.

Its a thin piece of card,but to be honest I didn't think that would be the problem as I picked some tin can up yesterday for shimming and its the results are the same.

I'll get some new tooling this week and see how I fair from there,just could be the nature of the beast ie hardened stainless steel?after all these machines lack a bit of oomph in the torque/power,I mean 300watt motor...c'mon:lol:.

No problem with ally or delrin.

:beer:

irving2008
22-08-2010, 04:01 PM
I was thinking of grinding my own tools ie just the facing,turning and parting off ones,the boring ones I have bought in the index replacable tip type.

Would these be suitable,Irving....
http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/Special_Offer_packs_of_5__reduced_prices_.html

Yes I'd imagine so, tho I bought a few ready ground but then adjusted to my own preferences and I already had a load of bits of 1/4" and 5/16" tool steel that came with the various old lathes I have acquired

FatFreddie
22-08-2010, 04:28 PM
The key to getting a good finish is stopping the tool deflecting while cutting, there are several ways to ensure this...

All components between the tool tip and the workpiece must be rigid, not rigid as cant move them with your fingers but rigid as in cant move them with a crowbar! Card is a complete no no, even tin can shim needs to be flat, clean with at most three layers and the tool needs to be well clamped down.

Keep cutting forces to a minimum - deflection is proportional to force. Make sure the tool tip is very sharp - use a high power magnifying glass to examine it and sharpen if it looks at all rough or rounded. It can help to put quite a lot of top rake on for finishing but this tends to make the edge fragile so you have to be careful. You can also use a more pointy tool (technical term) but you then need a finer feed.

Depth of cut, depending on the material, a cut the thickness of paper (0.1mm) might be considered a fairly heavy finishing cut ;-)

Coolant will help protect the tool tip and keep it sharp, if you don't want to use a stream of coolant then the Rocol stuff is pretty good.

The replaceable tip tools tend to be relatively blunt as they're designed for production use on heavy duty machines. It's possible to get sharp ones but carbide is prone to chipping so they are fragile (if you stall the lathe and then rotate the workpiece backwards to free it off, you'll more than likely chip a carbide tool) so I'd recommend HSS tools for a lathe this size.

HTH

Mark

GeorgeD
26-08-2010, 05:11 PM
Hi Irving

I'm struggling here on the Lathe,basically I'm having trouble parting-off...the lathe judders and for the life of me can't understand why I'ts proving difficult to part-off?

Last nightI set the gibs as they were a bit loose,today I got some new tooling and blanks,I've tried parting-off at different speeds,the tool is marginally belowthe center...I used the live center to set the tool up.

Stainless Steel bar,had to cut the workpiece of with a grinder :lol:..it ain't funny:cry:

Any pointers as to whats wrong?

GeorgeD
27-08-2010, 03:05 AM
Problem solved,it would seem these Lathes struggle to part-off on hard material and the only remedy is a roller bearing change for the naff standard ball bearings
that come standard. :mad:

Now I will have to change em,thank god I don't have to turn a bit off the larger spacer on the spindle because this model doesn't have it,only the thinner plastic spacers which are easily grinded down on a table grinder.

GeorgeD
27-08-2010, 03:30 AM
Forgot to mention,whilst scouring the net for info on these lathes I happen to think up an idea for DRO's on the cross-slide and compound but how to fit them?

In Lidl they had those cheap digital calipers which work on the same basis as the DRO's plus they readout inches and mm...so Lidl here I come.. :whistling:

I suppose given a little lateral thinking these couldalso be adapted to other machinery?

This will do nicely sir. :naughty:knowing my luck theywill have none left.