BUILD LOG: Comments sought on new build: A CNC Router for RC Gliders and Planes [Archive] - Page 3

m.marino

12-03-2015, 05:00 PM

If you haven't purchased your cable yet you might look at IGUS. They are a bit more but the difference in ease of flex and movement makes wiring up and setting up cable trays and runs so much easier. That is just my experience in helping a few folks rebuild older machines. I am seriously tempted to redo mine do to how much it makes getting a good clean cable run done. I don't own stock nor get a discount or anything just very happy with the product.

Michael

njhussey

12-03-2015, 05:27 PM

njhussey

13-03-2015, 05:48 PM

OK so once again work got in the way of progress.....however I managed to get an hour on it this afternoon just. I've made a "rough" X Axis stepper support plate and put it on the frame. Don't worry there will be plenty more bolts holding it on than are currently there!! One thing I've found is that my frame is not as square as I'd like, comes of rushing it to get it done before I lost the workshop at my old firm.

I've also added a couple of skate bearing idlers, these are temporary until I make proper shiney aluminium brackets as they're quite bendy! The plate will also eventually be either replaced or tidied up to make it look nicer as it looks really rough and ready and spoils the look of the build. However for the purpose of getting the mechanical build finished it'll do temporarily.

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njhussey

16-03-2015, 04:35 PM

Been thinking about where to put the router and will be putting it an 80° angle mounted in a frame. As it's in a work environment I'll be building a frame that can be sheeted and have interlocked doors on it......something along the lines of the below:

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This will have the added bonus of stopping the chips being flung everywhere, there will be a bin under the router to collect the swarf which will be slid out the front to empty it. I'll mount the router on the frame using epoxy putty pads where it's going to be bolted so the bolting doesn't induce any twisting in the router frame.

Clive S

16-03-2015, 04:51 PM

njhussey

16-03-2015, 05:56 PM

Have you thought about mounting it the other way so the X screws would be hanging down with the gantry horizontal.
It just seems to me quite high to reach and all the chip will fall on to the bottom screw. It is not going to need a big box to hold the chips. ..Clive
Yeah that's how I was originally going to have it but I thought with space now not being an issue I could have it round the other way which means that it's easier to load the work (top of bed is 1.75m, eye height, from floor, bottom is 1m from floor), not so much bending. I'll put a deflector on the bottom beam (and top) to deflect the chips away from the rail and ballscrew.

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njhussey

17-03-2015, 01:15 PM

Ok so I got my spindle mount today....

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/17/83e6601211d90ff07c8c57d6c3dd9acb.jpg

20 mins later...

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/17/2f587e10560960cc580ff0d8048153f8.jpg

Just need to drill and tap the front plate this afternoon. Spindle should be delivered tomorrow or Thursday...

Had my cable markers delivered, should have enough here for a few control panels! Got 0 to 9 and E, N, L, X, Y & Z.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/17/3450e79ddb5abadbc87fe5117f6f21b5.jpg

JAZZCNC

17-03-2015, 05:33 PM

Yeah that's how I was originally going to have it but I thought with space now not being an issue I could have it round the other way which means that it's easier to load the work (top of bed is 1.75m, eye height, from floor, bottom is 1m from floor), not so much bending. I'll put a deflector on the bottom beam (and top) to deflect the chips away from the rail and ballscrew.

14893

Neil you'll need much more deflection than that.!! . . . . I had my old machine vertical in both positions and the other way is much better for access and chip clearing.

The way you have it will need much more protection for the screws, both lower and upper. Just remember chips go up then back down again so they will settel on the top rail and screw.

I'd also urge you to cover the Z axis, to be honest I do this on all my machines now as it keeps a lot of crap out the works, but it's Esp important on vertical machine either way up as the dust settles either on the backside or onto rails etc.

Which way is best.? . . . .Well let me just say my new machine is going on wall when get chance and it will be other way to what you have.!!

Where did you get those markers.?

Clive S

17-03-2015, 05:57 PM

Where did you get those markers.? According the name on the real you should be able to get them http://www.edmundson-electrical.co.uk/

njhussey

17-03-2015, 06:00 PM

Neil you'll need much more deflection than that.!! . . . . I had my old machine vertical in both positions and the other way is much better for access and chip clearing.

The way you have it will need much more protection for the screws, both lower and upper. Just remember chips go up then back down again so they will settel on the top rail and screw.

I'd also urge you to cover the Z axis, to be honest I do this on all my machines now as it keeps a lot of crap out the works, but it's Esp important on vertical machine either way up as the dust settles either on the backside or onto rails etc.

Which way is best.? . . . .Well let me just say my new machine is going on wall when get chance and it will be other way to what you have.!!

Where did you get those markers.?
Ok I'm sold, if both you and Clive say it's better the other way ill put it back how I was originally going to have it!!

I am going to make a cover for the Z axis (just not shown it here) and the back of the Y axis will be covered with an Ali or perspex plate and chip deflectors put on to protect Y axis rails. The X axis belt will be covered. I'll be putting sides on the machine from the X axis rails down to the bed and also at the back to stop chips from flying too far round the enclosure.

I got the markers from Worcester Electrical (WED), not the cheapest I'm sure...

Running out of mechanical things to do now so suppose I'd best stop fannying around and do the electronics.....

JAZZCNC

17-03-2015, 07:06 PM

Ok I'm sold, if both you and Clive say it's better the other way ill put it back how I was originally going to have it!!

Only thing better is chip control other than that there's very little difference, If want to be Knit picky then could say your original way will give slightly faster rapids but in practise this doesn't matter as it will be more than fast enough.
One thing I will advise is building in some Bump stops at the bottom and when not using for extended periods Park it onto the bumps. This takes strain off the ballnuts and bearings.
I use Gerry's 2010 Screen set which as a PARK position so used this to lightly bump upto stops when finished at end of each day. In use I used the TC(tool change) option to send Gantry to top of machine for loading material tools etc.

You won't regret going vertical. To fully appreciate the difference use the machine in traditional Horizontal position before going vertical.!! . . . Before I retired my old machine it was horizontal for few agonising and messy months. It's replacement as been working for only a few weeks and already the chips flying around shop are driving me crazy, and that's not to mention the room it's taking up.!!

njhussey

17-03-2015, 07:45 PM

I've got some hard stops at the bottom end and will be putting some rubber for the gantry to rest against as you suggested this when I first mentioned going vertical. I'll use it horizontally until I've built the frame but it'll have to be on the floor as the tables aren't strong enough to not be shaken to bits with it on running at full chat....

njhussey

18-03-2015, 02:17 PM

Today is re-designing the moutning frame/enclosure.....

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Had a delivery today, scrapping my original home made spindle design for a "standard" 2.2kW one...

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Slight bit of damage where it looks like it was dropped, nothing serious just cosmetic and nothing that can't be sorted with a file! Spindle spins freely and smoothly...

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Currently looking at positions for the limit and home switches...

njhussey

18-03-2015, 06:19 PM

Started the PSU this afternoon, got to fix the rectifier (need some thermal paste yet) and then decide how I'm going to do the fuses...

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/18/25de83ace4e4c714f43af19bfbd85934.jpg

njhussey

19-03-2015, 01:51 PM

Ok so done the PSU. One thing I'm not certain on is the rectifier wiring. Can you electrically minded people have a look and make sure I've got the connections correct, I think I have but would like confirmation...Thanks!

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/19/1d42ad66195b2dd1cf9ad2aa3f8f49ea.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/19/d8f22cbd875f4efd3d80d041ce2b6278.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/19/b82b65058117dbc5c1ca35adf9b111b1.jpg

Lee Roberts

19-03-2015, 02:05 PM

Looks right to me ?

Clive S

19-03-2015, 02:30 PM

Jonathan

19-03-2015, 02:49 PM

as you are daisy chaining the power from one to another. It would be nice to have a separate wire to each from the main. Just my two cents worth. ..Clive

At first glance I thought that, but he's using such excessively thick wire that it's probably not a big deal.

njhussey

19-03-2015, 03:13 PM

Neil

I would not be happy with the choc block you need some sort of insulation under it as any stray wires could short to the chassis. Also a larger choc bloc might be better as you are daisy chaining the power from one to another. It would be nice to have a separate wire to each from the main. Just my two cents worth. ..Clive

I tinned the wires (and soldered them together) daisy chaining the power in the choc block which is 15A rated so I thought was big enough? I'll put some form of insulation under it if you think it's needed? How would you do a seperate wire to each from the main?

njhussey

19-03-2015, 03:20 PM

At first glance I thought that, but he's using such excessively thick wire that it's probably not a big deal.

It's wire I had left over from making Y leads for my large electric RC Helis, I though it would be good to use as I could strip sections of outer off, push it over the pin and then flood with solder. Then cover the soldered bit with hot glue to insulate....

Lee Roberts

19-03-2015, 05:46 PM

Missed that first time round, nice idea looks cool.

Not sure on Clive and the chocblock, I guess he's right but what to do...

I guess you need somthing of a busbar, mini consumer unit? Or is that ott?

.Me

Lee Roberts

19-03-2015, 05:51 PM

Neil what do you thin: http://www.directindustry.com/prod/spelsberg/busbar-enclosures-14775-1058789.html

Or somthing like this: http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/power-distribution-posts-blocks-busbars.html

njhussey

19-03-2015, 05:56 PM

Maybe mount the MCB's on the din rail with a busbar and then a seperate din mounted busbar for the -ve?

Lee Roberts

19-03-2015, 06:01 PM

:) sounds like a plan :), just seen these: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/321061386290

njhussey

19-03-2015, 06:05 PM

I remember now...EddyCurrent linked to that in his build...looks like a good solution, ta!

njhussey

19-03-2015, 06:15 PM

Or this....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Way-Fusebox-1-Power-In-LED-Light-Blade-Fuse-Box-Fuseholder-for-Marine-Van-/201211660464?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ed92648b0

Clive S

19-03-2015, 07:06 PM

:) sounds like a plan :), just seen these: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/321061386290

These seem ok and you would get the fuses for the drives (if you want them) you would need two of them fuse in the +ve and bridge the -ve solid (no fuse) cheapo choc blocks will melt if the screws come loose. Clive

ps the others with the led in would be no good as you will be running 70V ish.

Lee Roberts

19-03-2015, 11:42 PM

cheapo choc blocks will melt if the screws come loose.

Yea i think the white version are the better ones, somthing about not melting.

njhussey

20-03-2015, 11:35 PM

Clive S

21-03-2015, 01:40 AM

How about soldering the 1 wire from the caps directly to 3 smaller wires and connecting them to din terminals.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/20/9a9c2a1f418ba00b84d3d43279bf4b7e.jpg

Then connecting from there to MCB's before going to the drivers?

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/20/a56500baa7aefaf0893499f26a3810fd.jpgYou don't need mcb's just fuses if you want (I personally don't bother) but that sort of arrangement is better. You could do the same thing with a decent choc block or the fuse block that that you indicated before. That would in my eyes be a decent solution. At the end of the day it is up to you. ..Clive

JAZZCNC

21-03-2015, 02:27 AM

How about soldering the 1 wire from the caps directly to 3 smaller wires and connecting them to din terminals.

Then connecting from there to MCB's before going to the drivers?

Yep that's how I do it.!
Look at bottom din rail and on Far Left you'll see MCB's for toroidal Transformers, 24v psu, VFD along with Din terminal banks for Mains voltage.
On Far Right you'll see Din Fuse terminals for Drives and 0v & 24V bank of Din terminals.
Terminals in middle are for I/O to the machine, ie Limits etc.

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Clive S

21-03-2015, 10:12 AM

Neil I have been thinking about it and Dean is quite correct I had forgot you will be using this in a works environment and needs to be done correct. If you had a fire the insurance might not pay out if it was not done ok.
So fit MCB's etc .. Clive

njhussey

23-03-2015, 12:14 PM

Re-done the connections...

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/23/f94279fdbbc32f9725c75003406e992c.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/23/db882fe2079017f8248ffc40ef77c6a0.jpg

Clive S

23-03-2015, 02:27 PM

Neil You have passed the test :toot:very nice

njhussey

23-03-2015, 04:29 PM

Cheers Clive, except that I put a N label on the live terminal!!!!!

Clive S

23-03-2015, 05:01 PM

Cheers Clive, except that I put a N label on the live terminal!!!!!
Ok then two points deducted.:encouragement:

njhussey

24-03-2015, 11:11 AM

Full marks though for it working, it's giving a nice steady 72V. It is taking a while for the capacitors to discharge but then there's no real load across them...

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/24/20d9ef4533fd0d4cd4661b5a24786f2c.jpg

How can I safely discharge the capacitors with no load on them.......just to point out I've no resistor to drain it.....yet!!

njhussey

24-03-2015, 02:48 PM

Ok so I'm drawing up my wiring diagrams, ill start with the power to the PSU'S and 230V driver. I've got on and off push buttons I think that the off button needs to go in the safety part of the circuit as it needs to kill the power to the drives through the relay?

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/24/8735982af87ba8c51bbe6004b2136b03.jpg

I blinking hate electronics!!!

njhussey

24-03-2015, 03:23 PM

For the wiring of the drivers to the din rail terminals and the motors to the din rail terminals is the below ok to do i.e. connect the screen to the earth core and just terminate it at the din rail terminals? Obviously both ends will have shrink wrap on them :) Oh and this is just a test piece.....no way near long enough!!!

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/24/f1e75d5b43469d31d146f71982b51c7b.jpg

GEOFFREY

24-03-2015, 04:51 PM

You may hate electronics, but they and the rest of the machine is looking very nice. G.

JAZZCNC

24-03-2015, 05:09 PM

Ok so I'm drawing up my wiring diagrams, ill start with the power to the PSU'S and 230V driver. I've got on and off push buttons I think that the off button needs to go in the safety part of the circuit as it needs to kill the power to the drives through the relay?

I use Mains ON/OFF Isolator for Switching power to the Control box and then have ON/OFF switch on the 24V side for Local isolation when using machine but without turning mains ON/OFF for when changing tools etc or when making a Cuppa etc but not finished using machine. This way I'm not switching Mains voltage and it add's extra level of safety when changing tools etc so machine can't accidently be moved or spindle turned on as there is no power for the Master relay.

I have all Mains going thru a Contactors with 24V coil and then these go thru the Pilz relay contacts. While they will handle Mains voltage your better using them to control contactors.

Edit: I presume your going to use the drives Fault signal as part of the E-stop to stop machine if motor stalls.?

njhussey

24-03-2015, 05:56 PM

The door interlock will switch off all mains power to the control cabinet, if I need to turn off power other than this the plug socket has a trip/reset switch.

Yes drives fault will be part of the e-stop circuit....just trying to work out how to implement it all through a Pilz relay (and now contactors, any suggestions as to a good contactor to use?) and into the CSMIO IP/M.

My thoughts (so far!!) is that any E-stop (1 on control panel and 1 on machine), limit switch, AM882 + Kinco fault, (VFD fault, not sure if the Huanyang Inverter has this yet, but presume so, as not read the manual), stop button on control panel kills all power to the 70V PSU (and so the AM882 drives) & 230V Kinco Nema 34 driver. Need to work out how to shut down the spindle, presume by sending Mach3 a signal which then tells the VFD to stop the spindle?

I'll put a switch on the cabinet front panel to isolate the 24V supply only, do you remove 24V power from everything or just the Pilz relay?

JAZZCNC

24-03-2015, 08:15 PM

I don't include Limits in E-stop Circuit any more as they are not really an Emergency situation but rather a positional error. Instead I have them Halt the control/software and Disable the drives using Enable.

Regards Stopping the VFD then if your talking as part of E-stop Circuit then I use Timer Relay along with an E-stop signal using relay contact.
E-stop signal tells VFD to Stop spindle and then few seconds later when comes to stop Timer relay removes power.! . . .BUT . . . In all honesty for a DIY enviroment then just stopping the VFD spinning is enough.

Never rely on Mach3 or any software to shut anything down that can hurt you. Do it your self with relays etc then just send software a signal to let know you have shut it down. In your case IP-M will shut it down for you by disabeling the outputs when E-stop occurs but again don't trust it and put another defence in place and then still send Mach3 signal.

Yes I only Remove 24V to Master relay or in your case Pilz.

njhussey

25-03-2015, 05:56 PM

Just been playing setting out the position of everything (well except the contactor and Pilz relay which are on their way to me....had a little play running a few neutral wires to see how it was and also a screened cable trial piece. Going to be a bit tight getting through the trunking slits but it'll be fine.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/25/b8ff27d69dd7c70e9680d7857d059174.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/25/667f453fd6abdbdc04281fd14ac21746.jpg

Clive S

25-03-2015, 06:13 PM

Neil Don't forget all your screens to motors etc should go to a star ground point to help stopping ground loops.

njhussey

25-03-2015, 07:16 PM

JAZZCNC

25-03-2015, 08:02 PM

I was wondering about that, doesn't the backplate act as that as all the earth's (and motor screens and driver screens, but only JB din rail end end) connect to the din rail which is bolted to the backplate?

Technicly I don't think it should matter as the whole rail becomes a Ground Bus bar but I must admit I do take all my earths back to One block of Din terminals just for sake of it and to eliminate any chance of Ground loops.

njhussey

25-03-2015, 08:59 PM

In that case I'll not use the earth core (will cut it flush with the shield) of the shielded cable but do as you showed (can't remember the thread) and fold back the shield at the din rail end and solder to some earth wire shrink wrap it to the cable outer and take that to a block at one end.

Tonight's task is to work out how a bloody Pilz PNOZ X3 works!!

JAZZCNC

25-03-2015, 09:03 PM

Tonight's task is to work out how a bloody Pilz PNOZ X3 works!!

One thing with X3 is that A1 A2 which are often the DC Coil terminals are infact the AC coil terminals and B1 B2 are the DC terminals.!! . . . . This caught me out a few weeks ago.!!. . . Presumption is the mother of all F@~k up's as they say just like not RTFM. . .Lol

njhussey

25-03-2015, 09:07 PM

JAZZCNC

25-03-2015, 09:13 PM

That's the only thing I'm clear on Dean, what I'm struggling to get my head round is which terminals look at which relays. I'm not going to be switching AC now I don't think as I've got a 230V contactor with 24v DC coil coming (3 NO & 1 NC contact) so will switch the AC through there...

Easy neil.

13 & 14 NO Contact
23 & 24 NO
33 & 34 NO
41 & 42 NC

If you want Short circuit across contacts detection then use Dual channel E-stop which means 2 x terminals on each E-stop connected as below.
Contact #1 between S21 & S22
Contact #2 between S31 & S32
Then jump wire between S11 & S12

Reset button Between S13 & S14

njhussey

25-03-2015, 09:19 PM

Ok so those are the connect through terminals, which are the ones that control them? There's 11 & 12, 21 & 22, 31 & 32.....

JAZZCNC

25-03-2015, 09:39 PM

Ok so those are the connect through terminals, which are the ones that control them? There's 11 & 12, 21 & 22, 31 & 32.....

Like this 14964

njhussey

27-03-2015, 01:09 PM

Just been laying out and fixing down a few more things, not had much time on this in the last couple of days...

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/27/53ec77a2a69f9f332387516da6136b12.jpg

Waiting on my Pilz X3 to arrive before I fix the last few bits down....

JAZZCNC

27-03-2015, 03:17 PM

Makes you feel like a Kid waiting for Xmas again doesn't it Neil.. . . So close but just not coming quick enough. . :hysterical:

Looking good so far you'll be there soon.:applause:

njhussey

27-03-2015, 05:16 PM

Cheers!!

They laughed at me this morning because I got excited when another delivery from Chalon came which meant I could do the last bit of trunking on the panel!!

njhussey

27-03-2015, 06:05 PM

Quick hand drawing of power circuit so far. Pilz X3 is switching the contactor to kill power on e-stop.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/27/e5fdb387b759de410e2d7d55f3100673.jpg

njhussey

30-03-2015, 01:14 PM

Christmas morning today...Pilz came so knuckling down to finish the wiring diagrams so I can get it wired up....

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/30/05dc9c5a959f25e1a93941c68d01f17a.jpg

njhussey

30-03-2015, 04:38 PM

Power and Limit switch wiring diagrams...

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Graeme

30-03-2015, 09:20 PM

I have been looking at your diagram for the limit switches trying to understand what you are trying to achieve. All the NPN/PNP proximity switches I have looked at require 0V and a positive DC supply as inputs to power the sensor, and give a switched output. I do not think the way you have shown them will work. Do you have a link to a datasheet for the sensors ?

Can I also make a suggestion to you - don't mark the AC inputs to power supplies with a "+" and "-" which implies DC. It would be very easy to connect all the "-" terminals together which would not be a good move.

Graeme

njhussey

30-03-2015, 10:32 PM

Graeme, the way I was trying to wire it up was that they were all linked and as they are NC that any sensing will drop out the power to the circuit (and at the same time light a lamp to indicate that a limit has been hit, may put in a buzzer too) I think I've got my head in manual switch mode and not proxy mode. Was all done in a rush, no excuse I know....

Again I was being lazy with the labeling and jyst copying and pasting....I'll put L & N on tomorrow.

JAZZCNC

31-03-2015, 12:30 AM

Neil bit hard to read these schematics but looks to me on the power and Safety diagram you got something wrong.?
The Live is going thru the door contactor then into the 24Vdc contactor but you'll have no 24Vdc because 24vdc PSU is picking live up from other side of 24dc contactor which will never turn on.!

Need pick Live up for 24Vdc PSU before going into 24dc Contactor mate.

Next Limits. Other than what Graeme mentioned is the way you have wired Input from IP-M.? The inputs don't provide Voltage Ref you provide it one. So send 24vdc thru the Relay NO Contact to Input (+) and take Input (-) to 0Vdc.

njhussey

31-03-2015, 09:52 AM

Neil bit hard to read these schematics but looks to me on the power and Safety diagram you got something wrong.?
The Live is going thru the door contactor then into the 24Vdc contactor but you'll have no 24Vdc because 24vdc PSU is picking live up from other side of 24dc contactor which will never turn on.!

It will certainly be safe then!!!!

Need pick Live up for 24Vdc PSU before going into 24dc Contactor mate.

Done...

Next Limits. Other than what Graeme mentioned is the way you have wired Input from IP-M.? The inputs don't provide Voltage Ref you provide it one. So send 24vdc thru the Relay NO Contact to Input (+) and take Input (-) to 0Vdc.

Cheers Dean I'm on this....wasn't quote sure how the IP-M worked with regards to the inputs, getting it clearer now.

njhussey

31-03-2015, 11:22 AM

OK, diagrams re-done...please check them as I can't see the wood for the trees!

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On the drive enable I take it that just closing the circuit is enough, no voltage needs to be applied?

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I'll start numbering the wires once it's good to go...

Graeme

31-03-2015, 01:58 PM

I can see a couple off issues with your limit switches (I think). Firstly without your Override switch being pressed, the state of the limit switches is not passed on to the CSMIO due to the relay contacts being open. Also as you are using NC sensors and have all six in parallel the only way for the CSMIO to see a change is if ALL sensors are activated.
I do not know what the enable does to the motor drivers, but as I see it pressing the override switch will either allow the motors to work or stop them. Nothing else can affect the enable. I think you need to look at how you are using the override switch.
I think it might become a little clearer if you view the sensors as switches like in this image
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15034&stc=1
I am not sure if you can achieve what you are trying with NC sensors.
Graeme

njhussey

31-03-2015, 02:53 PM

Graeme, sorry, I've deleted one too many lines, there should be a line to the A1 of the contactor giving it power from the common line of the sensor. The way I am seeing it is that the contactor is NO until 24V is put on to the coil then it closes the contacts hence making the circuit, the enable is then open which means it's unconnected and enabled and allowing the drive to send pulses to the stepper. Any sensor being activated will break the circuit and the limit switch overide will need to be pressed to put power back on the contactor so I can back the machine off the sensor. Pressing the overide switch will sound the warning buzzer.

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njhussey

31-03-2015, 03:44 PM

give me a spanner any day.....I bloody hate electronics!!!

OK rant over.....just been down stairs and connected the 24V DC PSU up to the limit switches (2 only) I wired them so that the neutrals all went to a common din rail terminal, the signal from the first went to the +ve of the second and I measured from the neutral to the signal of the second with my multimeter. It lit both lights of the sensors and when any sensor was activated the 24V DC went to zero which was a result....far better playing with things than thinking about them on paper or screen!!!

New Wiring Diagram...
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JAZZCNC

31-03-2015, 08:54 PM

give me a spanner any day.....I bloody hate electronics!!!

OK rant over.....just been down stairs and connected the 24V DC PSU up to the limit switches (2 only) I wired them so that the neutrals all went to a common din rail terminal, the signal from the first went to the +ve of the second and I measured from the neutral to the signal of the second with my multimeter. It lit both lights of the sensors and when any sensor was activated the 24V DC went to zero which was a result....far better playing with things than thinking about them on paper or screen!!!

That looks better but be aware that you are wiring switches in series which contery to popular belief does work with Prox switches but just be aware that reaction time drops the more you have but it's not a problem with only 4 switches.

Graeme

31-03-2015, 10:43 PM

OK I see what you are trying to do. Probably not what the manufacturer intended, but as all you are really interested in is the sensors switching off it should work fine.
Still a little unclear in my mind as to why you are taking the output from the sensors through the relay to you CSMIO. When the same signal is used to turn the relay on/off. Why not take the sensor output directly to the CSMIO ? could you please explain.

njhussey

01-04-2015, 10:00 AM

That looks better but be aware that you are wiring switches in series which contery to popular belief does work with Prox switches but just be aware that reaction time drops the more you have but it's not a problem with only 4 switches.

Dean, what would be the best way to do it then? I'm going to have 2 proxys on each axis (maybe not the Z but I've not worked out where/how to put them it yet) as I want them tucked away (the Y axis ones are going to be in the enclosed gantry and the X axis ones are going to be mounted on the machine sensing the ballnut housing)

OK I see what you are trying to do. Probably not what the manufacturer intended, but as all you are really interested in is the sensors switching off it should work fine.
Still a little unclear in my mind as to why you are taking the output from the sensors through the relay to you CSMIO. When the same signal is used to turn the relay on/off. Why not take the sensor output directly to the CSMIO ? could you please explain.

Graeme, I want to rely on hardware to control the driver enable and just inform the software that there's been a positional error and not rely soley on the software to get the signal and then inform the driver of the error.

njhussey

01-04-2015, 10:33 AM

Pic of proxy data sheet showing they can be wired in series...

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/01/0745e6470fa40ca1c285d952402510f1.jpg

Clive S

01-04-2015, 11:03 AM

Neil Would you mind putting a link up to the data sheet. Thanks Clive

njhussey

01-04-2015, 11:32 AM

Neil Would you mind putting a link up to the data sheet. Thanks Clive

http://uk.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15001&langId=44&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=2218037&storeId=10151

The one I photographed was out of the box...

njhussey

01-04-2015, 05:01 PM

Started on some wiring of the power circuit....

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/01/6d1731f87b102d02559d071640ddf0a3.jpg

Those cable markers are a right bugger to get on, that's what's taking most time...

fvfdrums

01-04-2015, 05:09 PM

Looking good!

The CS Labs controller was such a pleasure to work with I have to say :) so well laid out. Definitely a good choice on that one.

The whole build is coming together nicely look forward to seeing it move soon!

njhussey

01-04-2015, 06:43 PM

Cheers Francis...I'm doing the connections between the drivers and the IP-M tomorrow and then I'll start on the safety side of things...cant wait for it to move either it's been about 5 years in the making!!

JAZZCNC

01-04-2015, 11:21 PM

Dean, what would be the best way to do it then?

That way is fine Neil I was more pointing out the side affects of wiring in series before some one chimed in that you can't wire prox switches in series.

One thing I meant to ask is that your not planning on sharing Home and Limit switches are you.? Because if so then it won't work.!

Clive S

01-04-2015, 11:32 PM

Started on some wiring of the power circuit.... I see you have the right tool at the ready.:joker: .Clive

JAZZCNC

01-04-2015, 11:48 PM

I see you have the right tool at the ready.:joker: .Clive

My mate locked away all my hammers after my last keyboard smashing hissy Fit.! . :devilish:

m.marino

02-04-2015, 10:11 AM

What size box are you using there. I am being dense today and can't find it in the thread earlier (I know it is most likely there but just being thick today) Nice set up by the way and may borrow some of your design set up with the rebuild I am in the process of (If you don't mind).

Michael

PS yes when the hammer looks like a solution that is bothering me; it is time to go for a walk or have a cuppa in the house and not touch anything that can break.

njhussey

02-04-2015, 11:59 AM

I might not have put the size here Michael so it's probably not you. It's 600 x 600 x 300, feel free to copy anything as most of my inspiration has come from seeing others builds, it's only what I think is a good layout for the control cabinet as I've tried to keep all power items to the left with noisy ones (power supply) to the bottom right as far away from the drives as possible as suggested by Dean.

JAZZCNC

02-04-2015, 02:35 PM

it's only what I think is a good layout for the control cabinet as I've tried to keep all power items to the left with noisy ones (power supply) to the bottom right as far away from the drives as possible as suggested by Dean.

Wow don't blame me.!!. . . :joker:

njhussey

02-04-2015, 03:41 PM

Wow don't blame me.!!. . . :joker:

No blame.........but will be sending a few :beer: your way for all the help and pointers you've given me (I'll be picking your brains again soon I'm sure...)

njhussey

07-04-2015, 08:06 PM

JAZZCNC

07-04-2015, 08:46 PM

Today I was checking the wiring and powering up the relay to make sure that it bought the power on and that the door safety switch worked etc. and on measuring the voltage found that our single phase power supply is 242V which I think will mean that my PSU (25V+25V) will be putting out too high a voltage, or at least be too near the 80V limit of the AM882s for comfort....will dig out my calculations and have a look tomorrow :(

Neil chances are your mains power will most likely fluctuate up and down depending on time of day and demand around. My varies wildly upto 257v.!! . . . The drives will handle some over voltage without damage if just a slightly up but obviously not good running all the time above Max.!

njhussey

08-04-2015, 12:29 PM

It's down to 236V today, powered it up and geting a nice 71V at the drives. The drives drain it down to next to nothing in about 20 seconds (not timed but it's a short time) I'll still at a later date put a 240V relay in and put a resistor across it to drain it quicker in case someone goes in the panel within that time.

Now on to the various safety circuits....time for some head spinning!!

JAZZCNC

08-04-2015, 03:46 PM

I'll still at a later date put a 240V relay in and put a resistor across it to drain it quicker in case someone goes in the panel within that time.

Yes I would do this anyway neil because if your not isolating the drives enable signal then the motors will remain powered until caps drained and this will cause them to run on slightly before fully drained.

njhussey

08-04-2015, 03:52 PM

The door isolator turns off all power so it's just for drainging the caps in case someone puts their hand on something.....although I've got hot glue over the soldered terminals on the caps so you shouldn't be able to shock yourself...

JAZZCNC

08-04-2015, 03:57 PM

njhussey

08-04-2015, 04:03 PM

I'm having the Estops (and AM882 alarms) go through a relay (and Pilz??) which will kill the power, the limits I was going to wire through a relay and to the enable of the drives.....

routercnc

15-04-2015, 12:32 PM

njhussey

15-04-2015, 03:15 PM

Hi Neil,

Looking through your build log on post #555 showing the control box -

Looks like the positive red DC output cable from the capacitors is going into an MCB. Is this correct and is this how you are intending to add a fuse? I'm a bit confused as I'd expect the MCB to be on the mains AC input side, and instead to see blade fuses on the DC output. Can you elaborate as I'm about to start my linear PSU build.

Thanks

I'm looking to get some of these but had forgotten about the MCB's. I was going to use them but I'm not sure they're the right thing at all! Lookig at something like these http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/fused-din-rail-terminals/8239552/ although I do quite like the idea of the 12V fuse holder EddyCurrent uses but not sure for a work environment?

routercnc

15-04-2015, 09:22 PM

Hi Neil,

Ok, thanks. Then I'll stay with my original plan which is 6A MCB type D on AC side of PSU, and automotive blade fuses on the 70V DC side. I plan to fit a trial 1A fuse on the DC then jog an axis to deliberately blow the fuse. Then I can make sure that it blows cleanly and there is no residual arcing from the 70V. I'll then fit the intended rating. I think Eddy and Irving both went this way.

But the DIN mounted fuse probably is the way to go for how your machine will be used industrially. Do you know if the 5x20mm fuses need to be specific for DC? This was where I got stuck with this option because reading around AC and DC currents seem to require a different type of fuse and so I went back to the automotive type which are definitely for DC. I wondered if that was why the fuse wire was such a curly shape on the DC blade fuse instead of the straight wires in the AC ones, to make sure there was a clean burn/break rather than continual heating, expansion, and arcing.

I'm not coming from a strong electronic knowledge-base so the above are just my views / thoughts.

As for the rest of your build looking very professional now, well done.

Jonathan

15-04-2015, 09:38 PM

Ok, thanks. Then I'll stay with my original plan which is 6A MCB type D on AC side of PSU, and automotive blade fuses on the 70V DC side. I plan to fit a trial 1A fuse on the DC then jog an axis to deliberately blow the fuse.

Interrupting the supply to a stepper motor driver (or many drivers for that matter) whilst running can damage them, so I wouldn't recommend that test.

Do you know if the 5x20mm fuses need to be specific for DC? This was where I got stuck with this option because reading around AC and DC currents seem to require a different type of fuse and so I went back to the automotive type which are definitely for DC.

I read somewhere that if the DC rating isn't specified for an AC fuse, you can use it with DC but only at half the AC voltage rating. Don't quote me on that though...
I would trust the 5x20mm fuse more than the blade fuses - running a 240V AC fuse at 70V DC seems more reasonable than using a 12V DC fuse at 70V DC.

routercnc

15-04-2015, 09:55 PM

Interrupting the supply to a stepper motor driver (or many drivers for that matter) whilst running can damage them, so I wouldn't recommend that test..

OK good point, but out of interest is that any different to an e-stop? My latest control box (when finished!) will cut power to the drivers via a relay which seemed to be a common approach.

njhussey

23-04-2015, 10:44 AM

Ok so back on this again after doing work for the last week or two....

Got my estop circuit working using this modified drawing...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/23/b7fd456df10239484769916aecd970dc.jpg

I've got to put the AM882s alarm signals daisy chained in the estop circuit but I think I know how to do that using another relay with 2 x NC connections.

Next problem is I keep blowing the 6A C type MCB when switching on....I'm guessing that I need a soft start to stop the inrush into the caps....can someone help with this? I'm guessing a thermistor with a relay/timer?

fvfdrums

23-04-2015, 12:03 PM

We get this as well but it's not consistent sometimes it'll pop once or twice other times straight away and that's with the caps fully discharged. At the moment I'm living with it but if there is a solution I'm all ears? D type breaker?

njhussey

23-04-2015, 12:11 PM

D type breaker?

I thought about that but I think I'll go for a thermistor through a timed relay or whatever people recomend...

JAZZCNC

23-04-2015, 02:43 PM

Don't mess about with thermistors and shit just put a D type MCB and you'll be sorted.

njhussey

24-04-2015, 01:31 PM

Don't mess about with thermistors and shit just put a D type MCB and you'll be sorted.

Cheers Dean.....D type MCB ordered....

routercnc

26-06-2015, 06:56 AM

Anything further to report Neil ? You were so close . . .

njhussey

26-06-2015, 07:20 AM

I'm back on it next week, other projects took precidence and one of us (only 3 in the office) was off for 6 weeks which meant extra workload. We've so many projects that need doing that it's a case of doing one at a time, We outsourced the plastic bearings that I was building the router up for so the rush is off but ill be back on the wiring next week!!!

njhussey

29-06-2015, 02:17 PM

OK so back on it today briefly (before having to go on the Lathe all afternoon re-necking pins for a customer order...) and ordered some more bits from Chalon so I can re-do the fuses from the transformer to the drives. otherwise I've just cleared the decks a bit whee other crap had been put on top of the control cabinet.

Once the bits arrive (more ferrules etc) I'll be continuing the wiring with a vengeance :hopelessness: and then re-looking at the safety circuits so I can get the machine up and moving ASAP :eagerness: expect lots of daft questions on control philosophy again......

njhussey

02-07-2015, 12:23 PM

Well bits came the other day so swapped out the MCB'S for fuses on the PSU to driver +ve leads as well as the 240V supply to the X axis driver.

Should I put a D type MCB in the 240V power feed before it goes through the door interlock (1st item the power goes through)???

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/d0d8a77efdba70500f5f9f2c49383041.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/33c5f2d175dc86fb08d9d0cf32416153.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/824de495c3f71ef02fbdbc8fba82d401.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/6922d812b05563bf7677c03b82250065.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/dd926de3d4e73054556680df622c42d0.jpg

njhussey

03-07-2015, 04:29 PM

A bit of wiring this afternoon...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/03/536a4b26d11926f09aeba119adef1a64.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/03/0664cc5e217ef422ba6abaeaeececf62.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/03/3fef9c60b92b276926e8d317a837fb22.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/03/4e228f945d72b37a7947f419c9965c89.jpg

I've taken one end of the screen back to the star point by soldering an earth wire to the screen and taking that back via the signal side of the cabinet.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/03/7987aa92b932179aebe35da14d3138a5.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/03/6d59b3f06f566d74f5a6c63217ad94e2.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/03/cf66c47216070f2d8f19a9019d3d892b.jpg

njhussey

06-07-2015, 03:58 PM

A bit more wiring.....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/b912dd05191401d213d7bf01acf27af1.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/d8a3971f104236bf71b8ec3507c35491.jpg

I moved the -ve terminals from on the PSU to the din rail, neater and shorter wires...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/b510580a2dc618283f75ad5ab4a7a2f0.jpg

Wired up the Z stepper...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/8b8f060afb5c55edd45190279c6c5c98.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/cfd72ec6ccc191ffeffb21df7a966ff5.jpg

Put a cable tie holder just to stop the cable from pulling for the time being until there is a cover on the Z axis and a cable gland in the cover...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/c6c07d268c2c52318d93fcf9c15471dc.jpg

Unpacked the new PC for the router...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/b17e093f1ec98dd0f2abb5deb4edb5b4.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/3e22a53e3fd95e5c0479501e8dfeca9b.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/d3dbec94323afe1bdd1484090404e855.jpg

Started it up....just need to load Mach3 on and do some configuring, wire X & Y steppers up and then we'll see what happens...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/fd09332aaab788eed736e4035f84a3fd.jpg

Clive S

06-07-2015, 04:48 PM

A bit of wiring this afternoon...

Beautiful work.

How about making some of these;-
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15670&stc=1

njhussey

06-07-2015, 05:03 PM

Beautiful work.

Cheers Clive!!

How about making some of these;-
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15670&stc=1

If I had a 3D printer I would.....now if there was someone out there who could make those then I'm sure I'd be in the market for 3 of them (plus a Nema34 one...).....:thumsup:

routercnc

06-07-2015, 06:29 PM

Looking good now Neil !

I'm no expert here but on my control layout I earthed the stepper driver end of my shielded cables, with the shield running all the way out to the motor without interuption. It looks like you have earthed the 'middle' of the cable if you intend to connect another cable from the terminal blocks out to the motor?

The photos are close in so I might have mis-understood. But you might be better turning the stepper cables around so the earth connection is done on the driver end, and the shields are joined to each other at the terminal block. Or better still might be to complete the run from stepper driver to stepper motor in one complete un-interupted cable, and earth the shield at the driver end.

Someone may jump in with the science on this one, and I could easily be wrong (!) but that was how I interpreted the earth shielding requirements.

njhussey

06-07-2015, 06:55 PM

Clive S

06-07-2015, 06:55 PM

If I had a 3D printer I would.....now if there was someone out there who could make those then I'm sure I'd be in the market for 3 of them (plus a Nema34 one...).....:thumsup:

I made a few on the 3d printer but they take quite a few hours each.:thumbdown: But since then I have made them on the mill. I have made them with various plastics and also the reconstituted rubber from tyres that they seem to make decking and posts out of but that is full of crap and holes.
.
On the mil they take about 20 min with the tool changes once setup. For the undercut I use a T-slot cutter.
.
The order in the way I do it is from the solid drill the 4 holes then reduce the block down, hollow out the centre, profile the outside, do the undercut then turn the piece over in the vice then cut the bottom off to release the part. Then put it back in the vice to profile the gland hole out. This was all done from a dxf file with Vetric Aspire ..Clive

edit Tool used 6mm endmill, T-slot cutter and drill.

Here is a link to buy them http://www.soigeneris.com/nema_23_stepper_cover-details.aspx but you would need to check carefully if they fit

Clive S

06-07-2015, 07:05 PM

Barry, im going to have the cables from the steppers coming in to the control cabinet and earth them to the star point and the cables from the drivers are also earthed at the star point. They connect via the din terminals. I'm also contemplating having a junction box on the machine and wiring to that and then the motors etc....
I think you are fine with the earthing effectively earthed part way down the cable as long as you don't make a loop ie earth both ends. I don't think it is a good idea with the junction box on the router in my humble opinion what is the point in chopping a perfectly good cable and then putting a join in it. ..Clive

njhussey

06-07-2015, 08:52 PM

what is the point in chopping a perfectly good cable and then putting a join in it. ..Clive

Well to start with the router will be floor mounted until I make the frame for it to live in vertically (at the rate I'm going that'll be months...)....so I was thinking to save having cables longer than I need dangling everywhere until it's finally sited I'd have a JB and when it's in its final position adjust the cables to suit....

Clive S

06-07-2015, 11:07 PM

Well to start with the router will be floor mounted until I make the frame for it to live in vertically (at the rate I'm going that'll be months...)....so I was thinking to save having cables longer than I need dangling everywhere until it's finally sited I'd have a JB and when it's in its final position adjust the cables to suit....Ah I now remember you are going to mount it vertical. But you will still have to have the continuity of the screens in the JB. ..Clive

Jonathan

06-07-2015, 11:11 PM

Here is a link to buy them http://www.soigeneris.com/nema_23_stepper_cover-details.aspx but you would need to check carefully if they fit

The advert says they're for 57mm motors, not 60mm, so yes... be cautious.

njhussey

07-07-2015, 08:57 AM

Ah I now remember you are going to mount it vertical. But you will still have to have the continuity of the screens in the JB. ..Clive
Still umming and arring about the JB, makes it a more modular solution but then gives more scope to introduce areas that could cause problems....

The advert says they're for 57mm motors, not 60mm, so yes... be cautious.
I think I'll make some myself when the machine is up and running, although it'll be tight for the Z axis motor as it's quite near the plate.....and I've got a Nema 34 on the X axis......

Clive S

07-07-2015, 12:16 PM

I think I'll make some myself when the machine is up and running, although it'll be tight for the Z axis motor as it's quite near the plate.....and I've got a Nema 34 on the X axis......If you want the dxf etc give me a shout.

njhussey

08-07-2015, 10:15 AM

If you want the dxf etc give me a shout.

Cheers Clive, would appreciate the DXF and any other files you have....save me from re-inventing the wheel!!

njhussey

08-07-2015, 10:39 AM

OK so today I'm back on the limit switches. Below is the diagram I currently have, is there a way using the relay that I can have seperate inputs from each limit switch or is it not needed?

15679

I'm going to have travelling switches on each axis (apart from the Z where I can probably get away with fixing it and have the trigger points on each end of the Z axis) and wire them back in shielded 3 core cable...

The home switches I'm going to wire individually into the CSMIO IP-M.....

njhussey

08-07-2015, 11:28 AM

Just putting the other related in and looking at the wiring....ive underestimated the number of 24v connections I need...having to put some more on the DIN rail now.....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/08/0289c2cb52de53fc1bfd67b8925793e6.jpg

Just put the Z axis front back on to see where the limit points are to be...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/08/bc7361378363243cdd024dd74f24ee0c.jpg

njhussey

08-07-2015, 11:59 AM

Running out of room!!!!!!!!!!!

Just managed to squeeze in a timer relay for cutting the power to the spindle (after the stop signal has been sent to the VFD!!) in the case if an E-stop.

Hope there's nothing else I need to fit in!!!

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/08/4eda3bf12326512bf54307f158a29e80.jpg

njhussey

08-07-2015, 01:36 PM

It's alive...............:yahoo::victorious::beer::toot : well the Z axis anyway!!

Jogged it up and down and it moves, need to do the autotuning thingamy bob on the AM882 drivers for the current but it's working.....only took 5 bloody years :whistle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ow4X15BVcsU

Clive S

08-07-2015, 02:19 PM

Well done Neal it's always nice when it moves the first time.:thumsup:

njhussey

08-07-2015, 03:49 PM

Cheers Clive, got the Y axis moving now and did the flick of Jumper 4 on the AM882 driver thingy to tune the steppers, now they don't whistle....now for the X axis......

njhussey

08-07-2015, 03:52 PM

Oh, put an "OH SHITTTTTTT..." button on the router end where the pc is at the moment....want to be able to hit it if it all goes pear shaped, especially as I've no limit switches at the moment!!!

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/08/919aa51bd3245746444c7fefeeef1ffe.jpg

Clive S

08-07-2015, 04:38 PM

Oh, put an "OH SHITTTTTTT..." button on the router end where the pc is at the moment....want to be able to hit it if it all goes pear shaped, especially as I've no limit switches at the moment!!!

Just wait until it's doing 15m/min down the table towards you:onthego:

njhussey

08-07-2015, 05:45 PM

Well all 3 axis are moving now, I need to check the alarm circuit and all settings on the drivers and in Mach as it trips and Estops after about 5 mins whether running or not....

Vid of all 3 axis running...

https://youtu.be/jkJ7Jk_S5d0

Tomorrow is wiring up the limit switches....and home switches...

routercnc

08-07-2015, 08:10 PM

:beer:

Sounds very sweet too! Given that you are also running at around 70V it must be down to the digital AM882 stepper drivers ? - mine are DQ860MA on 1600 microsteps but still have a hint of roughness when running.

Bit worried about your 5 minute e-stop trip problem - something getting warm?

njhussey

08-07-2015, 09:13 PM

[emoji481]

Sounds very sweet too! Given that you are also running at around 70V it must be down to the digital AM882 stepper drivers ? - mine are DQ860MA on 1600 microsteps but still have a hint of roughness when running.

Bit worried about your 5 minute e-stop trip problem - something getting warm?
Cheers!! I'm not too sure what it is, could be I have the Nema34 drive configured wrong, could be an earth problem, could be my E-stop circuit....I'll try isolating one thing at a time tomorrow and see :)

njhussey

09-07-2015, 03:45 PM

Well after earthing the frame, taking off the additional Oh Shit!! switch, taking out the driver alarm safety circuit it was still tripping out....so I swapped the Pilz for a standard relay and just wired the E-stops to this....seemed to sort it so I'm presuming that either the Pilz is faulty or my wiring circuit to it was crap....

Now trying to get the driver alarms into the E-stop safety circuit....and failing so far, but it's early days....

Did I say before that I hate electrical stuff.......

njhussey

09-07-2015, 05:11 PM

Question.....

On the Leadshing AM882 alarm output it's not completely going to closed connection....reading the manual I need a 2k resistor greater than 0.125W??

Can someone who's electrickery minded please explain it to someone stupid what I need?

The diagram (real rough sketch...sorry!!) of what I've been playing with (need to alter so I'm putting the 0V through the E-stops really) today below....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/09/15a68584a361c2853979e9e8514ab59c.jpg

njhussey

10-07-2015, 03:29 PM

Well after a false start (I used the info from the sticky thread on the 2.2kW spindles to wire the spindle connector) wiring the spindle I got it going. My plug had the pin numbers very feintly on it which I ignored....until it kept tripping the socket....then I looked and saw I'd wired one pin to the earth....so a bit of re-wiring and off it spun.....so that's another tick in the box...still don't like electrics ;)

Clive S

10-07-2015, 05:15 PM

njhussey

10-07-2015, 06:06 PM

Thinking of doing it through Mach Clive.

Clive S

10-07-2015, 09:01 PM

Thinking of doing it through Mach Clive.Well if you do want to fit a pot on the vfd it can be done for about £2 :- post one http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7388-Fitting-a-pot-to-a-Chinese-Spindle-VFD?highlight=speed

njhussey

11-07-2015, 08:11 AM

Cheers Clive, I might fit one and then have it as an optional overide, I fancy using Mach to control the speed through the IP-M's 0-10V output...

njhussey

13-07-2015, 11:21 AM

Set up the Spindle on Friday....manual only at the moment...

https://youtu.be/EBhi_Tt6478

Just putting the limit and home switches on the machine now.....going to wire them direct to the IP-M I think rather than daisy chaining them through a relay....can always add that later...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/b847609db870d3bce35e30e870a8a7a6.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/d4d339096fb4b025b1170211609a13bb.jpg

njhussey

13-07-2015, 05:06 PM

Ordered energy chain (plus ends!!), 100mm cable tray, small cutting bits, 4" rotary table, chuck & tailstock (4th axis), Full ER20 collet set, a few small 1mm and 2mm endmills and a few V carving/engraving bits and some other odds and sods....more fixing and wiring of the limit and home switches tomorrow morning...

njhussey

14-07-2015, 02:38 PM

Energy chain is here, will look at mounting that now it's here, don't trust dimensions off a data sheet....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/14/f219937fb7268759da1aebe917a10ea0.jpg

njhussey

14-07-2015, 03:21 PM

The time for fannying around has passed now....Z axis energy chain on the front plate, tie wrapped (temporary) to the back...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/14/a270923471e355c379daf5150abeaae5.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/14/5f68746088999d58ac7aca8f9ba70c7f.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/14/f8a09ce33429b25bafbee4ec84d3d793.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/14/96b679c5ace980bb28c3f1fc100c69c8.jpg

Y axis energy chain bracket mounted...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/14/941712c1400f8f17a930d954260db41a.jpg

Think I'm going to go with 2 small chains, one for power and one for signals and water...have them going down different sides...

njhussey

15-07-2015, 12:37 PM

It's like Christmas today, a few bits came, most importantly the cable tray for the energy chain to go on. I know I could use brackets but I will need cable tray for CNCING the mill later...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/15/2214f730383312816b129e2587210e7e.jpg

4" rotary table, 3" 3 jaw chuck, tailstock, small milling cutters, ER20 collet set...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/15/a0615b3065ccc69c7fda1eb661fba3ee.jpg

Some engraving cutters...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/15/a1ab9eeba5a7af3a44018a17ec6419bb.jpg

And some EN8 steel bar in sizes from 10mm up to 65mm for stock (sure I can think of some good uses for some of this!!)

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/15/8a22e7f0471afe7319ab6f99ace1845c.jpg

Edit: just been up b&q and got 20m of 5mm tube for the water cooled Spindle. ..just need a tank/bucket and small pump.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/15/184dbe9a98c196139be9907c281e0cea.jpg

njhussey

16-07-2015, 01:53 PM

Was looking round the yard at work for some Ali and steel so I can make brackets for the machine and found this lot in a pile of plastic....mostly 50 series Ali with some ms and 304 ss thin sheet.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/16/733cd961f286b2c17b0b42ba7e4a03bc.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/16/5ab663e8daaa257a2863b34bcb637817.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/16/228e160a99ee471c2344145817db4a67.jpg

There's a few chunks of some sort of fibre glass impregnated plastic I've got my eye on for the sacrificial bed....

Made a plate for the bandsaw so I can cut out the brackets from the sheet Ali and steel I've found...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/16/6acdba3aedfd3ec9ddca777b485cb3a5.jpg

njhussey

16-07-2015, 03:45 PM

Ok, a bit more done this afternoon in between phone calls etc.

Made a new limit switch bracket/energy chain mount and mounted the cable tray one side....now to do some more brackets and the other side...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/16/5d33699de232204966073f8d1bb22f01.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/16/88f9a0c8cbaa5afaa28dcc0fdf79be4f.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/16/067aa2e30782333c74a6671d95f9b301.jpg

Clive S

16-07-2015, 04:18 PM

Neil Looking good don't forget to put the rest of the bolts in the bearing mountings:joker:

njhussey

16-07-2015, 04:33 PM

Neil Looking good don't forget to put the rest of the bolts in the bearing mountings:joker:
Cheers Clive. Yeah I know, I was adjusting them the other day and not got round to doing it....

routercnc

16-07-2015, 10:17 PM

Hi Neil,

I found that the little bits and pieces take almost as long as the basic moving frame work! Keep plugging away and you will get there . . .

njhussey

17-07-2015, 10:37 AM

Hi Neil,

I found that the little bits and pieces take almost as long as the basic moving frame work! Keep plugging away and you will get there . . .

Tell me about it Barry, too much fannying around doing the small things. The other trouble is that it's now holiday season and for the next 6 weeks there's one of us (only 3 in the office) out so I'm guessing all work will stop again on it as I'll be busy doing the day to day stuff and 3D drawing for quotes etc, hope not as it's getting nearer to the day that it makes the first chips!

Gotty101

18-07-2015, 07:47 AM

njhussey

19-07-2015, 07:51 AM

Its looking great. One thing is there are atleast 4 rc modelers on here that I've seen now (including myself).

Im going to work on getting the fult signal from the hunyang vfd linked up but ive not seen anyone on here do this from my searches.
Cheers! I've not looked at the VFD integration yet...that'll be the last thing I do I think.

First thing I cut will be a set of wing ribs!!!

njhussey

20-07-2015, 02:00 PM

Just one thing done in lunch today, the second cable tray/bracket/energy chain on the X axis...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/20/5f520d2ced06a6c74bc51dd0d9a1925a.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/20/266c72cd4419820ebcd0b487ed38abd5.jpg

njhussey

20-07-2015, 04:39 PM

Ok so managed a bit more this afternoon....cut the Y axis back plate, only 2 M6 bolts in at the moment...don't worry Clive ill be putting lots more in soon!!!

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/20/717b6f847a9f2985b09bf12cf91f60a8.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/20/43b6814a76a85c225125a7c3aa4e69c0.jpg

Put one bit of energy chain on the Z axis to get the cable tray bracket mounting height....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/20/73ee3c12addce4644011a14f87fd019a.jpg

Slowly slowly catchy monkey....[emoji3]

Clive S

20-07-2015, 05:30 PM

don't worry Clive ill be putting lots more in soon!!! Just wondering why you need two X chains!!:wink:

njhussey

20-07-2015, 05:33 PM

Just wondering why you need two X chains!!:wink:
One for power and one for signals and water of course....[emoji6]

routercnc

20-07-2015, 09:28 PM

Looking good Neil. I also went for 2 chains with power down one side and signals down the other. Even with this setup I had a few false e-stops but I'm pretty sure it was because of the long limit switch cables to the Z axis straight into the breakout board. Hopefully with my new 24V limits through the relay it should sort that one -when I get round to wiring them up!

Clive S

21-07-2015, 03:17 PM

One for power and one for signals and water of course....[emoji6]
This is the way I have done it because I wanted the chain out of the way. All of the signals and motor power, water etc run through it without any problems. Although I am thinking of removing the water tube and fitting a small rad. with a fan on it on to the Z axis.
.
Dean has done this and it works very well ( Just a small sealed system about 1 pint of water).
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15711&stc=1

njhussey

21-07-2015, 03:25 PM

Clive, my router is going vertical so that's not really an option for me, looks a great solution though! I'm going to build a frame/enclosure to put it in which will eventually be fully enclosed with interlocked doors (safety because it's at work) which will also stop the chips from being flung all around the shop floor!

15712

I like the idea of keeping the water cooling on the Z axis, might look at small PC radiators and fans....

Clive S

21-07-2015, 04:02 PM

I like the idea of keeping the water cooling on the Z axis, might look at small PC radiators and fans....
Something like this

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/SP-120-water-cooled-with-1pcs-cooling-fan-eat-cold-water-drainage-discharge-120-radiator-cooling/1043171101.html

njhussey

21-07-2015, 04:44 PM

Something like this

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/SP-120-water-cooled-with-1pcs-cooling-fan-eat-cold-water-drainage-discharge-120-radiator-cooling/1043171101.html

That's the badger Clive!!....

I'm torn between mounting it on the Z axis or on the enclosure frame. I'm sure that the small volume will be OK but I'm erring on the side of caution and thinking of mounting it on the frame, that way there is a bit more water in the system. I've got a 240V small 200 l/hr pond pump, but it's a submersible one so I might just go with that in a bucket with a lid for the time being and then adapt the water circuit later....decisions decisions!

Washout

22-07-2015, 10:11 PM

Hi Neil,

Good progress recently....

If you want to go down the PC rad and pump route let me know, as I may have a spare 120mm rad (possibly 2), fans and possibly a pump/res unit I can let you have, as I've recently upgraded to 240/280/360/420mm in most of my watercooled PCs.

Chris

njhussey

23-07-2015, 12:58 PM

njhussey

23-07-2015, 04:49 PM

Did a little bit this afternoon...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/23/f01b5e291b1373adb799cdf90bbb74d7.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/23/a43c7e147bb33334dc3192e5c85572ae.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/23/06f5e98ed671e737cf92e525528185d2.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/23/79aa17860026eb174c056fdc5f7f17cb.jpg

Cables still need tidying on the end plates and something put there to stop and chafing....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/23/b1ed1945f4afadc8153865b071911639.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/23/cc372b0f9977e96117935539a06597a4.jpg

Stocked up on WD40 ready for cutting Ali.....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/23/4a2e12a85f1fc1e3a31aff46a4fe85b4.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/23/584df4a949ef3f452b817ec664b5969f.jpg

njhussey

28-07-2015, 12:28 PM

Unfortunately not had a chance to do any more on the machine as real work has got in the way. Still I ordered the steel for the frame (re-designed it to a basic frame that I can then box in if required) which came today.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/28/9f1e0e6a9cc15cac947abb08df8f732c.jpg

njhussey

28-07-2015, 05:00 PM

Frame re-design....hopefully I can keep the number of re-draws to below 6 this time. router is held to the frame with 4 off M12 bolts :wink:

15722

The frame is going to be mounted to the wall and floor rigidly and adjustably so it can be mounted level and slightly off the wall to get access to the botls holding the router to the frame (I can see a re-design on its way already...) :hopelessness:

njhussey

06-08-2015, 08:46 AM

Not much getting done this week on the build.....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/06/58a358417b82292050d59e40d8813efb.jpg

lazing by the pool with a few beers seems a better thing to be doing!!!

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/06/620acf3538280587031ee1f097012d5a.jpg

njhussey

02-09-2015, 05:56 PM

Ok so 20 mins on it tonight and ive drilled the holes to mount the 20mm thick Ali base. Just got to notch the front corners and file where the frame welds will be and then the headache of putting the base on, drilling and tapping the mounting holes and then bolting the base on. It's blinking heavy without the base on, still what's another 50kg eh.....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/02/e9c90fa5842e252c14d58977123b9f4b.jpg

njhussey

14-09-2015, 05:01 PM

Up ended the router, b*@@#r me it's quite heavy!

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/14/f2c6b9986357360e1d3e1052f28cfe35.jpg

Notched the corners of the 20mm plate and chamfered where the weld beads are. Put the plate on the base and used an 8.5mm transfer punch to mark the bolt holes.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/14/4864b4286503e9fa358ef129951f4592.jpg

Drilled and hand tapped the plate...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/14/ddfb1382001fe1d8371d1f6e51df3f98.jpg

Put it on the frame and tightened the bolts up...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/14/223e9e61de81de049c1dae35c364167d.jpg

And then put foot pads on and put it down on the floor for the time being....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/14/1492cdbe0799cd5073c36d661df5b8e0.jpg

Washout

14-09-2015, 10:11 PM

Good to see some more progress on the machine. It looks like its getting close to cutting testing?

BTW - what is the cutting area - it looks smaller in the latest pics but I estimate 500x1500-ish mm?

Chris

njhussey

14-09-2015, 10:19 PM

It's 1000 x 500 although I'm not sure I'll quite get 1000....we'll see.

Yes good to make more progress, spending more time on it tomorrow so hoping to get some movement again tomorrow!

njhussey

15-09-2015, 09:21 PM

Ok so I didn't connect up the control panel and play with a small surfacing program.....honest!!! [emoji6]

https://youtu.be/SS2O6dHBvqU

Wobblycogs

15-09-2015, 10:30 PM

Congratulations, looking really good.

njhussey

16-09-2015, 07:25 AM

Congratulations, looking really good.

Cheers Graham!

AndyGuid

16-09-2015, 07:28 AM

Well done Neil, it's looking brilliant from down here!

Noplace

16-09-2015, 12:23 PM

njhussey

16-09-2015, 04:07 PM

looks awesome, mind pointing me to where you got those leveling pads? thanks!

I got them from RDG Tools http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/1-X-Large-Machine-anti-vibration-pad-120mm-dia-14743.html when I got a load of other bits (8" Vertex indexing head etc...) I'm sure they're not the cheapest by far but I was ordering loads of other goodies.....:whistle:

njhussey

16-09-2015, 04:09 PM

Well done Neil, it's looking brilliant from down here!

Cheers Andy, looks OK from here although I've a list of things I'd do differently next time as I've a few niggles and annoyances. Once I've got this finished and running to my satisfaction I'll put a list of things I'd do differently in a post.

njhussey

16-09-2015, 05:21 PM

Ok so been playing with Cambam and doing various test cuts in a scrap piece of MDF playing with Step overs, feeds and speeds etc. Even did some peck drilling in preparation for drilling the base plate to bolt down a spoil board (MDF to start before a Tuffnol one I've got) so spoil board looks rather used...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/16/74d593d26a07696f18fe09c9eff24605.jpg

My work area is 970mm x 495mm so not quite as large as I'd hoped...but more than enough for what I want at the moment.

njhussey

17-09-2015, 05:13 PM

BUGGER!!!!!!!!

Spot the snapped tap in the bed...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/d92ad99e138b72fa4e7d26b99c599d12.jpg

Close up....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/51583bfcc2fdd31f28bcd9f175190e29.jpg

Which makes the sacrificial bed look like this...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/ab311273218b442cec489c8fa60d06e7.jpg

Closer...what's missing from this one???!!!!!

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/e0d6a5c094c6091eec244935fa69a621.jpg

Any suggestions for getting the tap out in situ guys??????[emoji35]

Wobblycogs

17-09-2015, 05:20 PM

njhussey

17-09-2015, 05:54 PM

Damn, always happens just when you don't need it. I've seen broken taps removed using a small punch or point and hammer to carefully unscrew them. Whether it will work depends how well the thread is cut I'd guess. Good luck.
I've some bits to cut tomorrow that don't require absolute precision so ill surface the bed and then think about it.

There was a thread where someone used Alum to dissolve the tap...trouble is I'd need a big pan to simmer the bed in!!!

Ultimately it won't matter as I'll be doing the T slotted base thingy...but it's still annoying!

JAZZCNC

17-09-2015, 06:27 PM

Ultimately it won't matter as I'll be doing the T slotted base thingy...but it's still annoying!

Neil are you thinking to T-slot the bed on the machine using the spindle.? IF so then you'll struggle because the spindle is far too fast for T-slot cutters.
Personally I find a matrix of tapped holes is far more versatile than T-slot and easy to do on the machine.

Sorry to see snapped tap.!! Done it my self so know how it feels.!:thumbdown:. . . Proper B@~~rd to get out. I just pecked away at it with pointy centre punch and kind of half destroyed it untill came came apart and loosened.

njhussey

17-09-2015, 06:37 PM

Neil are you thinking to T-slot the bed on the machine using the spindle.? IF so then you'll struggle because the spindle is far too fast for T-slot cutters.
Personally I find a matrix of tapped holes is far more versatile than T-slot and easy to do on the machine.

Sorry to see snapped tap.!! Done it my self so know how it feels.![emoji107]. . . Proper B@~~rd to get out. I just pecked away at it with pointy centre punch and kind of half destroyed it untill came came apart and loosened.
No I'm cutting 16mm wide by 6mm deep horizontally and then putting 5mm flat strip over the top to create it....

njhussey

17-09-2015, 07:51 PM

The one thing I've found from playing with my router so far is that I need home switches as I can't consistently home to the same place if Mach is switched off or sometimes even if I load a different program...first job on the list after doing some plastic thrust bearings for an urgent breakdown job for Cadburys......

njhussey

18-09-2015, 05:14 PM

Been making chips today...plastic ones after surfacing the spoil board.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/18/c32bdb01ee6d984a36e2e851bd48d0c1.jpg

Can't seem to get a good surface finish on a 1mm depth cut on the UHMWPE, can get a nice finish when going 2mm deep on cutting the I'D & ODs....using a single flute carbide cutter....needs more playing[emoji2]

njhussey

18-09-2015, 08:07 PM

routercnc

18-09-2015, 09:46 PM

Sorry to hear about the tap! So annoying and as they are very brittle it's not easy to tell that they are about to go.

I've seen them spark eroded out, but it takes ages and I think is done underwater (?!).

I've had success with Jazz's method of pecking it out with hard tools and getting lucky until I could unscrew it. Sometimes there's enough sticking out to get a mole wrench on it, but not with yours.

If you definitely need the hole at that location and it won't budge then one option is to use the CNC machine to cut out a large through hole around the tap (say 30mm diameter) so that a nice round cylinder of aluminium is removed containing the tap. Then machine a round pocket (say 60mm diameter and 5mm deep) centred on the same hole. On the lathe turn up a part which fits the 60mm dia pocket and has a shank of ~30mm which goes right to the bottom of the hole -essentially a plug the same shape as the removed material. Drill a couple of countersunk holes (to keep the bolts flush) into the top flange of the plug, and through into the bed. Tap the bed and bolt the plug in place. Then drill and tap the centre hole again with a new tap!

Another option if you manage to get the tap out but damage the thread too much is to use a heli-coil which uses as oversized tapped hole to insert a spring shaped piece of metal which then creates the original thread diameter again.

njhussey

18-09-2015, 10:19 PM

JAZZCNC

18-09-2015, 10:29 PM

One thing I'm happy with is the Z axis. I was expecting to have to loosen bolts on the Y & Z axis to adjust the spindle to get it at 90° to cut flat. I did a pocket with a 0.4 stepover and it was so smooth I reckon that by sheer bloody luck the spindle is almost exactly at 90°. When I surfaced the bed this morning (pocketing at 7000mm/min, 6mm 2 flute coated carbide bit at 0.4mm stepover and 0.5mmdepth of cut) I couldn't notice any ridge at all, totally smooth.....jammy bugger, makes up for the broken tap in the base!

Why such a small step over neil.? . . . . With 0.4mm it must have took for ever.?

The Acid test for tram is when you use a wide cutter.!! Try 50mm with 75% step over and see what happens.? 6mm with only 0.4mm step over will hide most error. Also cut both X & Y direction.

njhussey

19-09-2015, 09:12 AM

Why such a small step over neil.? . . . . With 0.4mm it must have took for ever.?

The Acid test for tram is when you use a wide cutter.!! Try 50mm with 75% step over and see what happens.? 6mm with only 0.4mm step over will hide most error. Also cut both X & Y direction.
The step over was what was in Cambam and gave a good finish so I kept it, yes took a while to surface it. I'm going to get a small fly cutter to do the surfacing in the future so we'll see then!

Going to be spending the next few weeks playing with speeds and feeds on various different materials...looking forward to it [emoji3]

JAZZCNC

19-09-2015, 10:01 AM

I'm going to get a small fly cutter to do the surfacing in the future so we'll see then!

Wide cutter will give you perfect finish if trammed correct and take fraction of the time.

Wouldn't get a fly cutter these spindles don't like them. Get one of these with indexed tips http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Surface_trepanning_928.html

Or if on budget one of these. http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Surface_Trim__3_Wing_250.html

Clive S

19-09-2015, 10:31 AM

I have the budget one above and it works well I can do my bed in a few minutes

njhussey

19-09-2015, 12:02 PM

Ok cheers guys, ill get one of those cutters, as work is paying probably the more expensive one.

What sort of step over do you guys use?

JAZZCNC

19-09-2015, 01:42 PM

What sort of step over do you guys use?

Depending on material and Depth between 50-100% often 75%.

njhussey

07-10-2015, 06:39 PM

Well due to my hat at work changing from engineer to Web designer ive not done anything mechanical or electrical to the machine...However I have been cutting bits for an RC Glider in my lunches....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/07/38aa3367d8bc2acdb247fb9d74055bbe.jpg

Now to crack on with CAD and finish off some drawings so I can make more models! [emoji2]

Blackrat

07-10-2015, 08:38 PM

how are those parts cut ?

njhussey

07-10-2015, 09:06 PM

how are those parts cut ?
Which bits? The wing ribs are nested so I can fit them on a 400mm x 100mm sheet (small packet post sixe) and ive got holding tabs on them to keep them in the sheet. The ply pieces are done the sane making sure the grain is in the right direction. The fuselage sides are done in 2 pieces and I cut them in half with a spline line so they can again fit in the packet for a small parcel and then fit perfectly together again and make a side. The balsa ribs and fuz sides were done with a 1mm cutter and the ply with a 2mm.....think that's about it.

njhussey

24-10-2015, 08:48 PM

Quick question to those who cut balsa (and lite ply)....I use these cutters...http://www.shop-apt.co.uk/single-1-flute-carbide-end-mills-for-plastic-acrylic-pvc-mdf-and-non-ferrous-metals/10mm-1-flute-end-mill-for-plastic-acrylic-pvc-mdf-non-ferrous-metals.html

Which cut it OK, however they do lift the balsa and on soft balsa tend to rip it when cutting across the grain. What cutters do you use? I was thinking of trying some down cutters but was wondering if there were better ones out there?

routercnc

25-10-2015, 10:39 PM

Hi Neil,

I use 3mm 2 flute TCT router bits but have a similar problem on balsa. I also thought about down cutters but never tried it in the end and where possible I use lite ply instead and have larger cutouts to keep the weight down. Lite play tends to leave a thin layer of whiskers which is easily removed by running around with a scalpel to leave a clean finish.

Thanks

njhussey

27-10-2015, 11:26 PM

Thanks for that Barry, I prefer cutting lite ply as it cuts better, yes those little furry bits clean off on with a sharp craft knife. I'll have a play with different types of cutter and see which give the best cut.

njhussey

19-11-2015, 04:52 PM

Well been playing with the Router in work. Going to make small plastic (going to be Nylon) samples so I've been drawing them and cutting on the CNC router. Not getting the best finish on flat bottom pieces, looks like it's rubbing but ok on vertical sides. Using both single flute and 2 flute uncoated carbide cutters.

165621656316564

The same is true in Aluminium, sides are OK but the base is a bit rough. Used WD40 and air on the Ali, just Air on the plastic.

1656516566

I've just downloaded the 30 day trial of HSM Advisor and as if by luck on the plastic I was using 14000 RPM and a feed of 1950mm/min which is not a million miles off what they are suggesting (1790mm/min) so clearly needs some playing with to get the best results....

Need to make dust/chip extraction as the stuff is being flung bloody everywhere......need to finish off the machine/control cabinet....need to make the vertical stand for it as kneeling down is a pain (literally) and leaning over the machine is also a pain......just need another 6 hours in the day to do this!!!!!

Clive S

19-11-2015, 07:30 PM

Looking good Neil its great when you start making bits for real:cheerful:

njhussey

19-11-2015, 07:36 PM

Cheers Clive, been making lots of RC kits that I'm selling on eBay and now making bits for work. Had the idea this morning, drew it and made it by lunch....snapped 2 4mm cutters with a school boy error in not thinking about cutter clearances but apart from that all good. Pleased the boss anyway!

Below are some RC bits I'm doing for me...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/19/ffdffd756d6237bfac6a5e80af3b0eea.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/19/03a6baa4fbd9c8ae6a50b0b70a14c060.jpg

routercnc

19-11-2015, 08:57 PM

Hi Neil,

Nice work there. Often thought about selling kits on ebay but never got round to it!

With regard to your earlier post - the bottom finish on aluminium pockets is never perfectly smooth to the eye. I think your photos look OK but hard to tell with the light reflections. Can you feel ridges with your fingernail?

Here are my pockets which I'm pleased with - on a machine which is less stiff than yours:
16567

njhussey

19-11-2015, 09:19 PM

Hi Barry,

I'm drawing up a few more planes at the moment, a 3 CH old timer and a low wing Acrobat. The top one in the picture is based on the ugly stick and I'll eventually have that on eBay but want to build and fly it first!

The bottom of the pocket is rough, not ridged but rough as if its been either tearing or rubbing it...I think it's just a case of getting the speed and feed correct. That's the first bit of ali cut on the machine so long way to go yet!

Clive S

19-11-2015, 10:14 PM

Do you remember the planes with the mighty midget motor and the unitone tx with the xfg1 triode(I think) valve in the rx with 4 wires:tickled_pink:

njhussey

19-11-2015, 10:24 PM

Do you remember the planes with the mighty midget motor and the unitone tx with the xfg1 triode(I think) valve in the rx with 4 wires:tickled_pink:
Showing the your age there Clive aren't you[emoji6].....bit before my time....Acoms Techniplus 2ch 27mhz was my first radio...with a Tamia Foed F150 Ranger car....

Lee Roberts

21-11-2015, 09:36 PM

Do you remember the planes with the mighty midget motor and the unitone tx with the xfg1 triode(I think) valve in the rx with 4 wires:tickled_pink:
Can you say that again in English? A with what, for a with when ? [emoji23]

.Me

Clive S

21-11-2015, 11:00 PM

Can you say that again in English? A with what, for a with when ? [emoji23]

.MeSee this http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/norcimradiocontrol/Radio17.htm and here is a bit more reading:- http://www.vintagercfiles.com/Grid_Leaks/Vol%202/Vol%202%20No%2010.pdf I am away at this time back Monday.

GEOFFREY

23-11-2015, 09:43 AM

Mighty midget - forget all this low power electric nonsense - I remember all the fun I had with my ED BEE in a control line model (must have been around 1954/5. G.

Clive S

23-11-2015, 09:50 AM

Mighty midget - forget all this low power electric nonsense - I remember all the fun I had with my ED BEE in a control line model (must have been around 1954/5. G.Are you still going round in circles?:highly_amused:

njhussey

24-11-2015, 11:34 PM

Been machining some Nylon 6 for some sales samples for the USA and am getting fed up with the blinking chips going everywhere so thinking of making a dust shoe. I've got some 2" brush draught excluder so thinking of using that. Would a small airline in the shoe help clear the chips from round the cutter, would it interfere with the vacuum?

https://youtu.be/7yliULpNJx8

njhussey

07-12-2015, 08:13 PM

Ok, so I'm bored of cutting ply....so as I need to make a wire bending device to make undercarriages (I'll be doing carbon ones later...) I decided to try tickling steel on my machine.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/07/da62c44b8f22121e7c4b6a21cbd1e0c0.jpg

Ok so it was 13000 rpm, 400mm/min feed rate, 100mm/min plunge, 0.4 stepover (0.75mm) 2mm 4 flute carbide coated cutter taking 0.25mm deep cuts.

Used a HSS 4 flute 2mm cutter first but that snapped...

Think I'll be playing with this some more [emoji106]

njhussey

09-12-2015, 05:04 PM

I've just bought the Estlcam software (through work) as I tried it last night and was impressed. It's much quicker than CamBam for doing RC bits (all I've tried at the moment...), I managed to do the CAM for 4 plates (600mm x 400mm) of nested parts in Estlcam last night in the time it normally takes me to do one in CamBam as it selects the geometry for you, if it's drawn correctly, instead of you having to join the lines into groups before you can select them and apply the CAM to them. CamBam also has the annoying habit of putting one random inside profile in an outside profile or viceversa.....I've just cut another plate for my Marabu plane and found one piece which has cut incorrectly like that. I normally spot them but on a couple of occasions I've missed them (rushing.....I know no excuse!) which means creating a new drawing for just that one piece....which is annoying :thumbdown:

I'm sure that I'll be using both bits of software but at the moment my preference for what I do is Estlcam, just thought I'd say!

njhussey

17-02-2016, 06:03 PM

Well, after all the recent custom jobs, my switch of hats from CNC operator/Machinist to Sales/Marketing & Web Design I'm back to the CNC building hat :yahoo:

I've already got the steel for the frame (it's sat rusting out in the yard) so decided to get the firm to purchase a new MIG welder, as my old second hand 90A stick welder was OK but I cant stick weld (not enough time spent practising really, not the welders fault as I'm sure it's just fine...) and today it arrived :eagerness: It is an R_Tech 180 Amp Portable Inverter MIG Welder so can be used for MMA and apparently even scratch TIG welding as well if I so feel inclined :cower: It has good reviews and I know Wobblycogs has one of their welders so looking forward to using it, even splashed out on a new auto darkening mask as mine has the head strap held together by gaffer tape :tongue:

17616

Just in case anyone had forgotten what the frame is going to look like.....

17615

So watch this space, frame design will be finished (got to figure how to mount the router to it) the workshop area tidied and cleared and then the frame cut up and welded. Going to add an air extraction system in the workshop for when I'm machining so that will be connected to the router enclosure to extract dust (balsa and ply dust) and at some stage a DIY dust/chip clyclone extraction system (and dust shoe for the spindle) to stop the plastic chips being flung round the enclosure.....lots planned, so little time to do it!!

Lee Roberts

17-02-2016, 09:42 PM

Sweet Neil!

Knowing "how you roll" it sounds and looks exciting, i look forward to seeing how it goes down ;-).

Check out dubbleboost on YouTube as he's into his R-Tec stuff and so has a couple of reviews on the go.

The Mrs got me an auto darkening helmet for Christmas (asked what i wanted, I said "food, a decent meal for dinner will do me babe"), not tried it out yet but they seem to be quite ok for the price, has yours got a grind function too? I didn't think she new I was abit of a grinder...must have been watching from the house while I had the tunes on....

I'll show you mine, if you show me yours? Its got one of them spunky detail/graphics jobs on the outside, looks to nice to chuck about on the floor

.Me

njhussey

17-02-2016, 11:50 PM

Sweet Neil!

Knowing "how you roll" it sounds and looks exciting, i look forward to seeing how it goes down ;-).

Knowing how I roll.....it'll be another 5 years till it's finished! [emoji15]

Check out dubbleboost on YouTube as he's into his R-Tec stuff and so has a couple of reviews on the go.

I've seen them, they're linked to on the R-Tech web site...they helped sway me (and the reviews) into buying it.

The Mrs got me an auto darkening helmet for Christmas (asked what i wanted, I said "food, a decent meal for dinner will do me babe"), not tried it out yet but they seem to be quite ok for the price, has yours got a grind function too? I didn't think she new I was abit of a grinder...must have been watching from the house while I had the tunes on....

I'll show you mine, if you show me yours? Its got one of them spunky detail/graphics jobs on the outside, looks to nice to chuck about on the floor

.Me

I got a plain R-Tech Speedmaster XL, nothing fancy...not opened the box yet but it's just a plain colour I think. Yes it's got a grind function....just checked :)

17623

njhussey

04-05-2016, 10:53 AM

Had 20 mins before work this morning, drew up a motor mount and this morning cut it out using Trochoidal milling on my router...I wanted to use the "onion skin" method instead of holding tabs but my MDF bed is obviously not level!! The piece finished with the 2 finishing operations around the bosses and outside profile still to do! Still it gives me the opportunity to tweak the design a bit and re-cut it in lunchtime :D

There are 4 off 25mm long aluminium tubes (10mm OD, 6mm ID) to press in to the bosses for spacers which I'll then mill to the same height (should be OK as I did them on the lathe)

Anyway not bad for a first effort I think! Video will be up a bit later....internet connection is soooo slow today!

18384

18385

njhussey

04-05-2016, 02:00 PM

Video of machining the piece here.....no editing or anything fancy...just pressed pause a few times :whistle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cG70ZbJpfHs

Clive S

04-05-2016, 03:00 PM

Its always nice to see a part that has been designed and machined coming off. :applouse:

njhussey

04-05-2016, 03:14 PM

Its always nice to see a part that has been designed and machined coming off. :applouse:
Cheers Clive, not as shiny, smooth and polished as some but nevertheless satisfying [emoji1]

CharlieRam

04-05-2016, 03:48 PM

Looks good but pretty certain you wouldn't catch my fingers in the slot with the tool that close while in cycle!

njhussey

04-05-2016, 04:23 PM

Looks good but pretty certain you wouldn't catch my fingers in the slot with the tool that close while in cycle!

Yes not a practice I'd recommend....in my defence I've run the simulation 20+ times so knew it wasn't going to rapid on me anytime soon....however I'll agree, no excuse :hopelessness:

Washout

04-05-2016, 07:37 PM

njhussey

04-05-2016, 08:33 PM

Good stuff Neil.

Was that a Fusion 360 part or i-machining?

One method I've used to avoid faffing about with zeroing off of a part like that is to cut a holding fixture in the bed and then use the same zero to then run a contour pass(es) to clean up the part.

Of course you know Jazz is going to turn up soon and goad you into cutting deeper and faster ;)
Cheers Chris, it was Trochoidal machining in Estlcam. I've not really messed with fusion 360...downloaded it and installed it but I use Geomagic at work so until I get more proficient at that I'll not confuse myself by using two 3D programs....

I'm going to give the bed another surface soon and at some point I'll put the 1" thick bakerlite sheet on and use that as my surface and tap holes into it for holding down workpieces but use sacrificial wood as necessary...

I'll not need much egging on by Dean...I started at the speed and feed that was recommended for the cutter...onwards and upwards!

Chris, what tape do you use to hold stuff down?

njhussey

05-05-2016, 02:05 PM

Just finished the Mk2 mount....could have been a Mk3 but this will do! Did put some engraving in the middle but got the depth wrong and it snapped the engraving bit :dejection: Still I forgot the hole in the middle for the shaft to go through (manually drilled) so that would have gone through the engraving anyway....Pressed the tubes into the plate on our hydraulic press and at 2.5 tonnes pressure I don't think I need to use the Durafix to weld them in...might do it anyway but I'll see. The bolts are pulling the tubes into the plate so they're not going anywhere, just the torque twisting them. Might get a big block of Ali and mill it out of 1 block though I'll probably not bother if this works...

18396

18397

18398

18399

Lee Roberts

05-05-2016, 05:26 PM

Guessing it's for a belt arrangement for something?

Bet your loving having a cnc up and running you can make stuff on, I can't wait :).

.Me

njhussey

05-05-2016, 05:34 PM

Guessing it's for a belt arrangement for something?

Bet your loving having a cnc up and running you can make stuff on, I can't wait :).

.Me
No it's simply a spacer to hold the motor off the firewall so the propeller sticks out the nose the correct amount...

Yeah I'm loving it, just starting to be more adventurous [emoji1] get it finished Lee it's great fun...

Lee Roberts

05-05-2016, 06:31 PM

No it's simply a spacer to hold the motor off the firewall so the propeller sticks out the nose the correct amount...

Yeah I'm loving it, just starting to be more adventurous [emoji1] get it finished Lee it's great fun...
Ahh right it's for a plane!

:) I will it's just a waiting game really, mechanically all I need for it now is two gantry side plates, two bearing plates and 3 motors, Dean is lined up ready to make the plates for me but I can't commit just yet as money is tite but I'm working on it :).

In the mean time I've been getting a few bits together for the enclosure, I'm actually ready to go with that side of things but again with out motors to connect it all too there's no rush so to speak.

I've just had my second injection for this new biological medicine they've put me on, I had my first one last week and the next morning I could feel the difference instantly when I tried to first stand up, normally I'm on steroids and painkillers during the day and the roids have been a great help in getting me some what mobile again but when I first wake up obviously those have all worn off through the night so I normally have to give my legs a min or two too adjust then go for it but as soon as I put weight on my feet (mainly the ball of my ankles) it's painfull, it's quite funny really because obviously as a man the first thing I need to do when I open my eyes is drain the bishop! But I can't because it's a painfull struggle getting to the bog lmao, it's been close lmao quite a few times as I've been bursting and needing to go asap lol

But as I say the future is brite and the morning after I stood up and to my amazement there was nothing there pain wise and since I've had no pain at all I really can't believe it, the doc said it would be 3 months before I would notice it starting to work, I'm not complaining!

Today I've been for a walk into town to get my hair cut, drop some packages off (switches for the lads) and get the girls a McDonald's for their dinner (brownie points) and I've made it back as happy as Larry because it was easy (normal).

Sorry I'm waffling on your build log but I'm just feeling so positive at the moment and i really cant wait but i really dont care either, what's more important in life as basic as they maybe is what I'm chasing at the moment :D.

Positive: Don't worry, my day will come and CNC better be ready for me 😎

Lee

Washout

05-05-2016, 06:50 PM

Chris, what tape do you use to hold stuff down?

Hi Neil,

Sorry - missed the question at the bottom - I use this tape:

Silverline 198134 Fixman Double-Sided Tape, 50 mm x 33 m from Amazon

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00F80K5OS

Cheers

Chris

njhussey

05-05-2016, 07:06 PM

Ahh right it's for a plane!

:) I will it's just a waiting game really, mechanically all I need for it now is two gantry side plates, two bearing plates and 3 motors, Dean is lined up ready to make the plates for me but I can't commit just yet as money is tite but I'm working on it :).

In the mean time I've been getting a few bits together for the enclosure, I'm actually ready to go with that side of things but again with out motors to connect it all too there's no rush so to speak.

I've just had my second injection for this new biological medicine they've put me on, I had my first one last week and the next morning I could feel the difference instantly when I tried to first stand up, normally I'm on steroids and painkillers during the day and the roids have been a great help in getting me some what mobile again but when I first wake up obviously those have all worn off through the night so I normally have to give my legs a min or two too adjust then go for it but as soon as I put weight on my feet (mainly the ball of my ankles) it's painfull, it's quite funny really because obviously as a man the first thing I need to do when I open my eyes is drain the bishop! But I can't because it's a painfull struggle getting to the bog lmao, it's been close lmao quite a few times as I've been bursting and needing to go asap lol

But as I say the future is brite and the morning after I stood up and to my amazement there was nothing there pain wise and since I've had no pain at all I really can't believe it, the doc said it would be 3 months before I would notice it starting to work, I'm not complaining!

Today I've been for a walk into town to get my hair cut, drop some packages off (switches for the lads) and get the girls a McDonald's for their dinner (brownie points) and I've made it back as happy as Larry because it was easy (normal).

Sorry I'm waffling on your build log but I'm just feeling so positive at the moment and i really cant wait but i really dont care either, what's more important in life as basic as they maybe is what I'm chasing at the moment :D.

Positive: Don't worry, my day will come and CNC better be ready for me 😎

Lee
Glad you're on the mend and things are getting easier for you to do normal everyday stuff...that's great news!

Hopefully things pick up a bit now and you can crack on with the build, look forward to seeing it!

njhussey

05-05-2016, 07:08 PM

Hi Neil,

Sorry - missed the question at the bottom - I use this tape:

Silverline 198134 Fixman Double-Sided Tape, 50 mm x 33 m from Amazon

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00F80K5OS

Cheers

Chris
Cheers Chris, I'll look at getting some...would have made machining this much easier!

njhussey

06-05-2016, 04:35 PM

Here's the bracket after I've made a mess with the Durafix, machined 5mm off the tubes (lathe) and bolted it to the firewall....only got 2 bolts in at the moment but WILL have all 4 in before anything electrical gets connected I promise!!!

18404

Put the nose cone on and fitted the prop (18" diameter x 8" pitch) to see what it was like...

18405

Lee Roberts

06-05-2016, 06:33 PM

***high pitched voice***
SSSWWWEEEETT!!

njhussey

23-05-2016, 05:21 PM

njhussey

24-05-2016, 05:13 PM

Right or wrong it works, installed 2010 screenset and used the simple tool zero and yep......it works!!! Had the bit loose in the collet just in case!! Bought a trepanning tool from Wealden as recomended by Dean and set the height to the base and took 1mm off the bed (it's really bad!!) Felt some ridges so tweaked the spindle right by 0.2° and the bed seems pretty smooth now...

1849218493

Just need to do the limits so I can home the machine and put the fixed tool change plate on (when the new bed is on the machine!) and make the frame....dust extraction unit....put electronics in the box....etc. etc. etc. etc............:hopelessness:

Washout

26-05-2016, 12:32 AM

paulus.v

26-05-2016, 01:47 AM

I'm just starting to do the things I should have done before using the machine (Sorry Dean!!) and one thing is a touch plate (limit switches are also going to be dome ASAP) as I want to use Ger's 2010 screenset. Now I'm a bit thick when it comes to electrickery so I wanted to check I was doing this right before even cutting a wire.....

My limited understanding is that I can connect the -VE 24V DC to the tool via a croc clip (or can I permanently connect it to the spindle or frame?), the touch plate is wired to the -VE input (15 in my case)of the CSMIO IPM input and then I put +24V DC to the +VE (1 in my case) input?

Is there a better (correct) way to do it? Sorry for my stupidity :stupid:

If you have the tool grounded via spindle/frame, you may permanently connect the 0V of your 24V PSU to ground. Then you have only the touch plate wired as you already did (but not pin 1 and 15, eventually 1-14 or 2-15 :playful:).

I find very useful the "Probe Active" green led on the 2010 screenset that I also use. I made a habit touching the tool with the plate every time I use it to make sure it is working as expected.

The easiest and rapid way to find the corner of your workpiece (nonmetal) is by using a "triple edge finder" (http://www.themakersguide.com/home/products/triple-edge-finder-2) (or a double edge finder (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_tiq9RxVOI) that is easier to make yourself). To find the center of the touchplate hole that corresponds to the corner of the workpiece you have to use the excelent '2010 X-Y Probing Wizard'.

njhussey

26-05-2016, 11:22 AM

Hi Neil

That looks like a nice cutter - might grab one myself when ordering from Wealden next (I've been very impressed with their routing bits etc. to date).

I always thought trepanning was used to relieve headaches by cutting a hole in your skull - learn something new every day :)

I can tell you one thing....there's no way that I'm using that bit to drill a hole in my head!!! However it does surface the bed beautifully :biggrin:

njhussey

26-05-2016, 11:42 AM

If you have the tool grounded via spindle/frame, you may permanently connect the 0V of your 24V PSU to ground. Then you have only the touch plate wired as you already did (but not pin 1 and 15, eventually 1-14 or 2-15 :playful:).

Oooops....you are correct, luckily I've got it wired 2 & 15......:whistle: Yes got the 0V wired to the frames earth so I just had the one wire to thread through the cable chains....

I find very useful the "Probe Active" green led on the 2010 screenset that I also use. I made a habit touching the tool with the plate every time I use it to make sure it is working as expected.

I don't fully trust it at the moment so like you I check the connection every now and again. I must admit that it's been a complete revelation this screenset and the touch plate, it's spurring me on to do the home and limit switches ASAP now...

The easiest and rapid way to find the corner of your workpiece (nonmetal) is by using a "triple edge finder" (http://www.themakersguide.com/home/products/triple-edge-finder-2) (or a double edge finder (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_tiq9RxVOI) that is easier to make yourself). To find the center of the touchplate hole that corresponds to the corner of the workpiece you have to use the excelent '2010 X-Y Probing Wizard'.

I was thinking of making a corner touch plate, now I think I will....got some Ali plate somewhere to play with :biggrin:

njhussey

16-06-2016, 10:21 AM

Well last weekend I flew my plane that I made with my router....so this is a look what I've made on my machine post :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hDTq_5Y5-A

Neale

16-06-2016, 10:37 AM

Pity it wasn't a glider - must have been some good thermals under those clouds!

Well done - great sense of satisfaction in building something using a machine you built yourself. Nice landing, too!

njhussey

16-06-2016, 10:48 AM

Pity it wasn't a glider - must have been some good thermals under those clouds!

Well done - great sense of satisfaction in building something using a machine you built yourself. Nice landing, too!
Cheers Neale, the wing loading is such that it can thermal, it's a real floater. It was satisfying telling everyone who asked about the plane that I made it from scratch on my CNC router I also made myself!

The landing was a good one, second had one hop skip and a jump [emoji15]

Clive S

16-06-2016, 11:27 AM

Neil Beautiful job. You obviously can fly as well. Brill.

magicniner

16-06-2016, 11:44 AM

Brilliant job!
The sky was very cinematic too, you couldn't have picked a better backdrop for filming,

- Nick

routercnc

16-06-2016, 12:36 PM

njhussey

16-06-2016, 01:02 PM

Neil Beautiful job. You obviously can fly as well. Brill.

Brilliant job!
The sky was very cinematic too, you couldn't have picked a better backdrop for filming,

- Nick

Cheers chaps :biggrin:

The sky looked brooding....1/2 hr later and it was a clear blue sky (but was sitting down having a sausage and bacon buttie18716 18717, an hour later and it was tipping it down again :thumbdown: Wasn't the best video as it was taken on my mate's phone...must get a GoPro (or equivalent) so I can strap it inside/outside and film. Would like to go FPV in it for a laugh :biggrin:

njhussey

16-06-2016, 01:19 PM

Lovely job well done. Those high wing trainer types are very relaxing to fly.

Jealous now as I haven't been flying for several years. Must get on with that Spitfire project ! . . . . after I've finished the MK4 router, and the house jobs list, and, and

Cheers Barry, that's what I wanted, a nice floaty relaxing plane....next one is another trainer type but for a 0.25 glow motor to scream about the sky and practice my inverted flying etc. etc.

I've still got stuff to do on the router...home switches, limit switches etc...someday!!

Lee Roberts

17-06-2016, 06:22 PM

Nice work Neil looks great, lol to the info on the switches.

.Me

njhussey

25-07-2016, 10:26 PM

Ok so Friday I started the frame to mount the router vertically, finished it off today including paint. It wasn't the all singing and dancing one I first planned as that would have been far too heavy to move. This will have a wood enclosure eventually to stop plastic/wood/metal chips from flying about as well as a dust/fume extraction system in it. Lots still to do, tomorrow will be putting the control panel on the wall and at last putting the electronics inside it! Anyway, some photos of the frame and router mounted.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160725/1dfa94d7071df043d93586d2a270e16b.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160725/41b3cf314b5c07837da76ea371381aae.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160725/d8cf83bd9242a0f9420c62dbd07fc1ea.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160725/8cbda244c3c70b11e66e88b8329c1757.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160725/2b2515ffd870688c1dab824323a47b34.jpg