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View Full Version : RFQ: Drill/Tap Guide Block for 15mm aluminium plate edges.



Wal
27-11-2012, 01:14 AM
Hi all.

I've been planning my CNC build for an age now - you know how it is, back and forth... I'm a total novice so apologies if this sounds silly... Some of the plates I plan to use in the construction simply won't fit under my pillar drill for edge drilling - obviously I need any holes that are drilled to be central and squared to the plate... I had a think over the weekend and came up with a guide block:

Is this method feasible?

Thanks for your time guys.

w./

oscar
27-11-2012, 12:36 PM
Can't see why it won't work.
But would be quicker to make 2 with different internal bore diameters. Also quicker to swap from one to the other.

Wal
27-11-2012, 01:17 PM
Yeah, a one-piece would work I guess, and possibly be the better option.

Cheers.

w./

oscar
27-11-2012, 01:50 PM
Fair enough.
If its an on going job with lots of different sizes being made, would it not be wise to invest in a pillar drill instead?

Wal
27-11-2012, 03:02 PM
Yep, got a pillar drill but not a floor-stander, the trouble is that some of the work simply won't fit and there's little point in me blowing hundreds on a new drill that won't get that much use... Even if I swung my existing pillar over the edge of the bench I'd still be having to mess with clamps/supports in the hope of getting a hole drilled square. Just thought this would be a nice simple solution to my problem.

Cheers.

w./

phill05
27-11-2012, 05:51 PM
Yes it's good idea, I have an old Record drilling jig with inserts left over from my woody days and I just dust it off when I need it , a small amount of time spent making one would save you a lot of time and money.

Phill

Jonathan
27-11-2012, 08:46 PM
I don't think there's any need to use stainless steel - normal mild steel would be fine. You could make the inserts thread into the guide block. If you hold them with a grubscrew, machine a small flat on the insert for the grubscrew to push against otherwise the burr will stop the insert coming out easily. Could make the inserts 'top hat' shaped so that they're easier to pull out...

Wal
28-11-2012, 03:59 AM
Thanks guys. Nice suggestion regarding the flats, Jonathan - just altering the designs now...

Dom, I'll send through some diagrams tomorrow (this!) evening.

Cheers.

w./

Lee Roberts
28-11-2012, 07:30 PM
Wal, it’s always nice to see people coming up with new innovative products that offer a solution to a problem. I look forward to seeing the new designs if you will be sharing them here as well.

The only thing I can’t see you've covered is how you will align the base unit over the location to be drilled/tapped. I’m thinking a rod made of clear plastic, bored out to almost all the way with a small center cross or a marking in the center of what would then be a tube with an end to it may work well, though I’m now thinking “but how well would you be able to see down the tube to place the mark/crosshair, L.E.D illumination built into the plastic tube?

What do you think, have you got something else in mind?

.Me

oscar
28-11-2012, 08:07 PM
Just as an aside.
If you had swung your pillar drill over the side of the bench and clamped the plates underneath. The job would be finished by know, at no extra cost. :)
Nice design and animation though.

Wal
29-11-2012, 03:12 AM
Hi Lee,

Yep, I've given some thought to locating the unit and so far my solution is a little agricultural in comparison to what you've suggested, but should work fine. Essentially I plan to measure in the normal way and use a scribe to score a thin line across the edge of the plate where I want the hole to locate.

Cheers.

w./

Wal
29-11-2012, 03:23 AM
Just as an aside.
If you had swung your pillar drill over the side of the bench and clamped the plates underneath. The job would be finished by know, at no extra cost. :)
Nice design and animation though.

Hehe. Nope - I'd have screwed things up royally and would be saving up for another chunk of plate...

I did have a go at a bit of tapping through plate a little while back and by and large was quite pleased with the results I managed to achieve - but even after spending a great deal of time and care to get things square I noticed that the thread at the exit was lop-sided (noticeably shallower on one side) - it still accepted a machine bolt well enough and didn't show any signs of weakness - all the same, I'd be OCD-ing about whether I'd done it properly or not. I'm weird like that...

Cheers.

w./