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View Full Version : Repairing an encoder and tach cable



gavztheouch
17-04-2013, 01:45 PM
I rencently moved a large cnc router, during the move someone has ripped both the encoder and tach cable on one of the motors with forklift tines. The cables are all colour coded so to make a quailty repair how would you do it? Replacing both cables would be the neatest way but it does involve a lot of time and money and im thinking it may not bring that many benifits over a solder repair. The encoder cable has about 14 wires to patch together, is there any down sides to soldering wires back together in terms of electrical shielding, I relise the outer sheilding will be missing and may have to make up for this one way or another. Maybe some aluminium foil tape or that copper stuff guitarists use to sheild their guitars.

Web Goblin
17-04-2013, 01:56 PM
I would use shielded cable plug and socket if the joints not inside a drag chain.

gavztheouch
17-04-2013, 02:06 PM
Why would you go for a plug and socket over a soldered joint?

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/Gavztheouch/toast1_zps93bdb9dd.jpg (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/Gavztheouch/media/toast1_zps93bdb9dd.jpg.html)
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/Gavztheouch/toast2_zps1ca90bd2.jpg (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/Gavztheouch/media/toast2_zps1ca90bd2.jpg.html)
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/Gavztheouch/toast3_zps0f3c942f.jpg (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/Gavztheouch/media/toast3_zps0f3c942f.jpg.html)
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/Gavztheouch/toast4_zps7621cd37.jpg (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/Gavztheouch/media/toast4_zps7621cd37.jpg.html)
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/Gavztheouch/toast5_zps85bdab3a.jpg (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/Gavztheouch/media/toast5_zps85bdab3a.jpg.html)

Web Goblin
17-04-2013, 05:36 PM
It looks much better than a lump in the cable especially if you are selling the machine on. Also it is better to stagger the joint if you are going to solder it but it does take a bit more work. Remember to fit the heatshrink to cover the outer cable if you are going down the solder route.

John S
17-04-2013, 06:39 PM
Unless i'm missing something the pics don't show where the break is unless it's the second pic in which case just shorten the cable and solder back into the plug

m_c
18-04-2013, 12:32 AM
If there is any flex in the cable, or it's subject to vibration, then a solder joint is not ideal and is likely to fracture over time.

A suitable crimp join (be that plug&socket or just crimps), should be far more reliable.

gavztheouch
18-04-2013, 07:50 AM
The break is quite close to the original connector, I originally thought it would be too short once I had paired back the cable but looking again I think I should be ok. Its hard to tell what connector they are using as there is no marks at all on the plastic or metal apart from a siemens printed logo on the metal casing. The closest thing I can find is by a company called Lapp. If it is a Lapp I will need to buy a new 12 pin insert and crimps to go along with it, at £5 it shouldn't break the bank and much better than buying a complete new metal connector.

gavztheouch
21-04-2013, 11:38 AM
Lapp have never seen my connector before so it must be from one of the other manufactuers, I can buy a new connector to solve the issue of sourcing some new inserts but im not sure if all M23 circular connector are compatable with each other. Has anyone had any experience mixing and matching M23 connectors from various different manufactures.

Cheers