PDA

View Full Version : BUILD LOG: A machine... in a month



kingcreaky
05-09-2013, 10:07 PM
As the title says really, A friend asked me to build him a machine. Designed specifically for woodworking. The requirements were as follows

Same as my first machine, except
*Twin height beds.. Machine would never be used for one big sheet, Jigs would be made to machine several different parts that would be constant, so twin heights were required
*A little overhang and a vice was required at the front to route out letters in the side of cabinet doors
*A Third axis to mill out lettering in the side of fruit bowls
*Main bed must be solid ali
*Go ahead given on the the 15th July, delivery date 30th August.

The entire build in parts cost as follows

562 - Linear Gear
300 - Steal
201.16 - Steppers
139.20 - Power Supply and spindle cradle
131.00 - Rotary Table
112.74 - Belts and Pulleys
556.39 - Aluminium (330 of this was the bed plate and the 4th axis mount plate)
35.97 - Towing chain
188.00 - Stepper Drivers
218 - Spindle & VFD
104.99 - Computer
6.40 - Stab Controller
39.12 - CY signal cable
--------------------------------------
2594.97

9980998199829983


9984998599869987

9988

998999909991999299939994999599969997

leveling the bed on the old machine was a right pain, so I decided to add some m20 thread bar to help initially level the bed, but also the nuts could be locked off to provide extra support for the side bolts

9998999910000100011000210003


10004100051000610007100081000910010100111001210013

100141001510016100171001810019

and finally, delivered and installed

10020


the machine was made (once parts arrived) in one month. (alongside a full time job). I used an
Arc Welder
an angle grinder
an alan key set
about 10 no.2 m6 taps
a cordless drill
a lathe (for boring the pulleys, could of been done with drill press)
a drill press


If I did another one would I make any changes?
*The thread bar under the bed was fantastic. The bed could be calibrated very accurately (especially for wood)
*There is still a lot of resonance in the design. Even though its extremely heavy (broke a tail lift trying to get it onto lorry) made out of very strong steel.... jog the gantry around and watch it jump around.
(for newbies imagine jogging the Y axis across the gantry, then changing direction... all that inertia is transferred into the frame and can be felt in the shoulders of the machine)

Triangulation would need to be added to the next machine


il upload a video of the 4th axis

kingcreaky
05-09-2013, 10:19 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFcgtqpRW3E

Jonathan
05-09-2013, 10:30 PM
Looks like a good machine for cutting wood. I'd certainly add some diagonals to the frame, make the motor mounts a bit stronger and also include a dust extraction system. You could also use a longer top rail on the Y-axis and increase just the top bearing spacing substantially. That would increase the stiffness of that axis noticeably.

I particularly like the 4th axis motor mount :smug:

Greeny
06-09-2013, 01:22 AM
Great Job!
Thanks for sharing the photos & info.

You did that in a month!!! That's very impressive. :thumsup:

Cheers
Greeny

btw. Like the video. Never seen anyone V-carving cheese before! :beguiled:

EddyCurrent
06-09-2013, 10:56 AM
It's a great looking machine, your welding is spot on but how are the top members of the frame fastened on ? the ones where the linear rails fasten to, I can't see any weld on the inside joints. If they are welded on then how do you level the linear rails on top of them ? because there would be no means of adjustment with shims etc.

GTJim
06-09-2013, 12:07 PM
Matt, that is an impressive build, and your welding skills are excellent.
I think I'm becoming slightly envious. Lol

kingcreaky
06-09-2013, 01:29 PM
how are the top members of the frame fastened on ? the ones where the linear rails fasten to, I can't see any weld on the inside joints.

they are welded, just not on the inside



If they are welded on then how do you level the linear rails on top of them ? because there would be no means of adjustment with shims etc.


In actual fact the top members were sat on top of the frame, which was in-turn sat on my relatively uneven garage floor. I then measured best I could with a spirit level before tacking them inplace.
I then made the gantry, double checked, before welding them solid. Maybe not the best method IMO, sometimes, you just need to get on with it, and not worry to much about the obvious. Otherwise you wont get anything done. Both times its been accurate enough, especially as there is some adjustment in the bed. The dti guage showed (once the bed was on) there was negligible twist. when tracking the gantry around dragging the dti on the bed.

"A little less conversation, a little more action"

robump
06-09-2013, 02:00 PM
Is a drill press generally accurate enough to use or should I be looking at using a milling machine to drill the holes needed?

kingcreaky
06-09-2013, 02:34 PM
Hard to answer, as im unsure of what drilling your referring to.. If you mean, just in general
whether you decide to use a drill press, a milling machine, a hand drill or a blunt spoon. The accuracy is more dependant on your markers / punch marks more than the tool used to drill

robump
06-09-2013, 02:49 PM
I guess it would be the drilling of the side plates of the y axis I would be talking about. I don't have a milling machine so was wondering if you can get Z axis machined anywhere? I need to start a build thread with some designs on it

Jonathan
06-09-2013, 03:08 PM
I guess it would be the drilling of the side plates of the y axis I would be talking about. I don't have a milling machine so was wondering if you can get Z axis machined anywhere? I need to start a build thread with some designs on it

You can do it with a pillar drill, so long as it's not a really cheap one that just bends all over the place. However a good Z-axis design will often have pockets milled into it to reduce the overhang, so I'd always prefer to mill it especially if you're using the better linear guides.

Jazz and I have both made Z-axes for people on this forum and I'm sure we're not the only ones...Post your design in the RFQ section when it's done and I'm sure you'll get what you need.

robump
06-09-2013, 03:31 PM
Cheers guys.... I'll stop hijacking the thread now and get some designs up for everyone to comment on!

asbo
07-09-2013, 12:57 PM
Nice build, I love all the pictures :smile:
What size aluminium box section is that?

~andy
07-09-2013, 01:47 PM
Great job. I reckon your friend must be very happy with it.



What size aluminium box section is that?

I'd put a fiver on it being 100 mm x 50 mm x 6 mm.

EddyCurrent
07-09-2013, 02:35 PM
Or maybe it's 4 x 2 x 1/4" although 100x50x6 is slightly cheaper.

Wobblycogs
09-09-2013, 12:10 PM
Great looking machine and thanks for all the detailed pictures.

GEOFFREY
10-09-2013, 12:12 AM
One month? very well done. Looks great. G.

alboy
11-09-2013, 11:40 PM
nice and in 1 month, Impressive machine for the cost. hmmm I think I need to find a friend like you lol

Al

Lovre
02-10-2013, 07:37 PM
Hi...Very very nice build.

Can you tell us what are dimension of tubes? I'm thinking of building something similar with steel tubes 50x50x5 and 50x100x5.

Do you think is it sufficient ?

How does this threaded rods help to level table and linear rails ?? Can you explain this a little bit ?

fvfdrums
03-10-2013, 03:38 PM
Excellent work, if I can get half the amount you have done in just one month done by the end of the year I would be happy! Looks great

PAULRO
07-08-2014, 10:48 PM
great m/c. whats the max sheet size it can handle length x breadth ?

jimbo_cnc
02-03-2015, 06:54 PM
What's the working area?

Also, how do you use a solid flat bed like that? Drill and tap fixing holes?