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View Full Version : BUILD LOG: Stell frame cnc 1500X1000. Adjustable table your opinion please



ba99297
11-10-2013, 08:29 PM
Hi Everybody
My name is Vagelis and I am from Greece
I would like your advice and your opinion on the plans below.
Involving a cnc (1500mm x 1000mm) which
will runs with Yaskawa servo 400 watt
Supported profiled rails 20mm, ballscrews X, Y 20mm Z 16mm
Spindle 2,2 KW water cooled

The following plans have to do with the table
I want to make something stiff and adjustable
The main table is made with 80X80 5mm square tube and the X axis rails will be placed on two ( each side ) I beams. The one I beam (120mm height) will be welded on the table and the above will be adjustable up-down left-right with screws. Before i go on with the plans i think that it will be good to get some opinions from the "experts" as i am amateur at cnc constructions ( sory for my english).
My main concern is if I beam is suitable for this purpose, or it is better to go with 120X60 5mm tube
The cutting surface will also be adjustable from the brown L shape angle that can be moved up and down.

Thanks everybody for your time

EddyCurrent
11-10-2013, 11:46 PM
Vagelis,

I am an amateur like yourself but have recently read a lot of information about cnc machines. I am designing a frame myself at the moment using 50x50x3 steel box section, my work area will be about 1000x650.
You see where you have two crosses in the side panels, I think if you had just 2 diagonals like this I/I\I it would be enough because you just need to create a triangle. For your size machine I would say the 80x80x5 might be more than you need but if you are fine with that then more is better than less. The I beams I would change for box section because I beams are not so good with twisting and you might get more sideways twist than you would with box section. Also you have not put any diagonals at the ends like you did with the sides. Good things you have included are 3 legs each side, adjustable feet, adjustable top I beam to get the top surface straight. Looking at the drawing, I can't see much adjustment on the brown angle and wonder if it's worth it other than making sure the table is the same height under the cutter across all of the table.

Boyan Silyavski
12-10-2013, 12:18 AM
In my opinion your legs are overbuild and the rails support underbuild.

The I beams are bad idea.

After a lot of thoughts and considerations for me:
-a whole machine build from 80x80x3mm with a careful design could be the best solution for a DIY sturdy CNC
-a whole machine build from 100x100x3mm with careful design could be a real beast of a DIY extremely sturdy CNC

The people who build with more than 3mm thickness either have a design which is not so perfect or are pro builders who know what they are doing and definitely its not their first machine, usually some beast with a special heavy duty purpose


It would be nice if you take your time and read the entire Tony CNC build here (http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/router-build-logs/5302-tiddy-cnc-2.html) where he started with similar to yours idea, the calculations of the price and weight, how he implemented and personalized the design from another build of mine adjusting to his dimensions and needs.


More or less i could say that the particular design of mine could hardly be beaten for strength, weight and $$$ combination, permitting the final result to be extremely sturdy CNC with deep 160-200mm Z travel.
The trade offs are that it is better to be all soldered and adjust the table bed by fitting thick table bed instead of raising and lowering the bed structure itself.
The plus is that its very easy to cut to size, one profile only, cheap, very easy to solder precisely and completely scalelable from small to big machine.
the gantry could be made from 2 profiles soldered together so finally will be 200x100 or 160x80, which both a are great and in the ideal range for 20 size supported rails

Its not tested on a finished machine, but i am currently building one and can assure you is steady like a rock. If you scale it, mind the distances between every element and don't change them, just add or take elements to make it bigger or smaller.
Its deceivingly simple but many things are taken into consideration.

Hope that it helps.

My advice is when comparing designs take the calculator and see the KG and what you receive for these KG in strength. Then compare. Every KG is an euro :encouragement:

10413

PS. FYI just went in the garage and measured the deflection of my machine under 100kg weight/me/. Its very similar, with different measures. Table bed is 67cm wide and is 135cm long. So stepping on any of one the table bed beams gave me 0.05mm deflection of that beam and stepping on any of the sides that that support the gantry/supported at both ends only/ gave me 0.03mm deflection. So keeping the design and not under doing something when everything mounted will give you real life deflection which is unmeasurable/or for sure less than 0.05mm/ . So my machine with mine particular dimensiones with table bead mounted will have over all deflection of less than 0.01mm. isnt it great?

ba99297
14-10-2013, 04:28 PM
Thanks everybody for your advices
The basic conclusion is that I should replace the I beam with square profile. That was what I have in mind from the beginning. The reason that I choose I beam for the drivers support, was because it was easier to connect the two I beams ( upper and lower ) with bolt and nuts in order to have a fully adjustable table.
The plan that you suggest me to make Syliavski looks very strong and stiff. My question is how am I going to adjust that table if I have imperfections as cause of arc welding. The basic advantage of arc welding is the stiffness, on the other hand if I only weld and have no ability to adjust with bolts, I think is more than sure that my X axis rails wont be on the same plane. So I think that I will keep the solution of the bolt adjustment an replace the I beams with 80X80X3 or 4mmsquare beam. The Chinese says 1 picture 1000 words, I will design it and I will come back. Meanwhile I will be glad to hear any suggestion.

Thank for your time

Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
14-10-2013, 08:30 PM
Thanks everybody for your advices

The plan that you suggest me to make Syliavski looks very strong and stiff. My question is how am I going to adjust that table if I have imperfections as cause of arc welding. The basic advantage of arc welding is the stiffness, on the other hand if I only weld and have no ability to adjust with bolts, I think is more than sure that my X axis rails wont be on the same plane. So I think that I will keep the solution of the bolt adjustment an replace the I beams with 80X80X3 or 4mmsquare beam. The Chinese says 1 picture 1000 words, I will design it and I will come back. Meanwhile I will be glad to hear any suggestion.

Thank for your time

Vagelis

Hi Vangelis

- between 80x80x3 and 4mm, the best choice is or 80x80x3 or 100x100x3 .
Why?
80x80x3 1m=7.17kg/m
80x80x4 1m=9.47kg/m
100x100x3 1m=9.02kg/m

Looking at their properties from my suppliers brochure the conclusion is that roughly the second is 20% stiffer than first and the third is at least double stiffer, hence for the same weight ~9.kg the 100x100 x3 will make quite stiffer machine structure



About soldering:

With careful thinking and careful soldering and only 2 big clamps i achieved a structure where not only is up to the mm precise but the beams are on one level and the supporting beams are on one level too. Nevertheless i will use Epoxy to level bellow the supported rails. As suggested by fellow members here i bought West system Epoxy with Hardener
from dansonmarine.co.uk who will ship in europe, contact them.
1kg of 105 resin and .33kg of 209 hardner, £45.00 per pack +£17 to Spain
Delivery is £17.00 to spain

It took me a whole day to weld it and i would not go other way. You can do it with a helper, 2 or even better 4 big clamps and a 2m aluminum profile or a real straight edge.
there is an procedure that has to befollowed, check my build or if you dont understand i will explain later.But mostly it consist of designing and welding "stair like" the individual assemblies, which at the end are soldered together in a "stair like" fashion. That means left and right part of the table should be finished first and then connected as suggested above.

JAZZCNC
15-10-2013, 05:20 PM
Hello Vagelis,

Following your PM I did see this thread and forgot to post Sorry.

First Agree with Silyavski that your double I-beam design is bad idea and would drop it like hot potato.

Also agree that a fully welded Bed is slightly stronger but it doesn't allow easy adjustment if you need large items and having raising platforms like suggested can be inconvenient and take up space for storage.!

To decide which best suits your needs then you'll have to consider closely what your cutting needs are.? . .If you only plan to raise the bed to say just cut Aluminium so bringing table surface closer to spindle a fixed amount every time then go with the fixed bed and build raising platform to suit. (If you have room to store it.!!)

But if you what to cut a range of material thickness's then adjustable bed is the better option. If designed correctly and built strong then the strength difference is negligible for most cutting conditions except really heavy duty or very hard materials, In which case you have probably built the wrong design machine.!!

Now regards the table Bed and getting it parallel to the cutter then don't worry this is not a problem.? Because every time you move the bed or in Fixed bed case Add the raiser block you MUST surface the table to be sure it's parallel to Cutter.
This also means it doesn't matter if the adjustable table isn't perfectly level or even in twist because after being surfaced it will be parallel to cutter and thats all that matters.

NOW what is VERY VERY important is that the X axis~(long axis) rails are on the same plane and not in twist.!! This is where all your efforts need to be concentrated on getting correct. The Bed could be Banana shaped and slopping at an angle it doesn't matter because after surfacing it will be flat and parallel to cutter BUT ONLY if the X axis rails are on the same plane. Any errors in this department affect the whole machine.

Several ways to ensure this but really only 2 that are realistic to the DIY builder. These are Epoxy levelling or adjustable top rail and careful measurement.
Epoxy is probably the easiest because it doesn't require accurate straight edges or equipment.! It's just more time consuming because of prep to surface to ensure clean and setting up dam walls and bridge etc . . .Plus it's messy and requires clean up afterwards!.

Thou For first time builder then I'd probably suggest taking Epoxy route has it's easier to ensure rails are on same plane and doesn't require machines to ensure top rail is surfaced flat.



- between 80x80x3 and 4mm, the best choice is or 80x80x3 or 100x100x3 .
Why?
80x80x3 1m=7.17kg/m
80x80x4 1m=9.47kg/m
100x100x3 1m=9.02kg/m

Now regards this Silyavski then there's little more to it than just weight.? The thicker material will lessen resonance and resonance affects the quality of cut, it can also affect motor performance to some degree and I recommend Digital drives with good resonance damping built in if building from steel. Also fill the Tubes with sand for best affect.

Some times it's better having less speed but Stiffer machine with less vibrations than trying to save weight. Again this depends on what your doing with machine.

Let me say for cutting anything below Aluminium these steel built machines are massive overkill and would need huge spindle power to achieve the Depths of cut and feed rates that would stress the frame or make it become the weak point.

For Cutting aluminium or harder materials correctly to high standard requires a certain attention to design and detail that is very hard to Achieve, just look at Jonathans latest post about his friends excellent machine to get an idea of what's needed to do it correctly and I'd even say this is a minimum requirement if high standard of finish and feed/DOC rate is needed.
This is just medium sized machine and with every 100mm wider or longer the level of engineering gets more and more important and harder to achieve accuracy.

So my Advise is THINK CAREFULLY about your cutting needs and be REALISTIC about feeds/DOC etc you expect to achieve.
No point using a Sledge hammer to crack a nut and same goes with cutting wood, Machines built to this level are Sledge hammers to wood.!! . . . . Build it just stronger than needed for the Job it's doing, any more is waste.

If you need to mainly cut aluminium and correctly then build a different machine designed to do the job correctly.!!

If you want one large machine to do all jobs then it will have weak spots in every area, it CANNOT Excel at cutting every material just impossible to achieve realisticly.!!

EddyCurrent
15-10-2013, 09:06 PM
This is how I plan to do my top rail.
legs 50x50x3 steel box
top rail 100x50x3 steel box
6mm or maybe 10mm plates welded on top of the legs and welded to the underside of the top rail.
Bolts will pass through the plates on the legs and will screw into threaded holes in the top rail plates and right through into the box.
These joints will be shimmed to level the top surface of the rail and to ensure both sides are in the same plane.
Before bolting the pieces together I will grind the surfaces of the plates flat, checking with a straight edge
It would be easy to weld 2 further intermediate points if this found to be flexing.

10440

JAZZCNC
15-10-2013, 09:37 PM
This is how I plan to do my top rail.
legs 50x50x3 steel box
top rail 100x50x3 steel box
6mm or maybe 10mm plates welded on top of the legs and welded to the underside of the top rail.
Bolts will pass through the plates on the legs and will screw into threaded holes in the top rail plates and right through into the box.
These joints will be shimmed to level the top surface of the rail and to ensure both sides are in the same plane.
Before bolting the pieces together I will grind the surfaces of the plates flat, checking with a straight edge
It would be easy to weld 2 further intermediate points if this found to be flexing.

10440

That's pretty much I do my rails but to make life simpler and do away with grinding and shimming etc I spread a layer of Epoxy putty on the bottom plate. Then I put layer of plastic between rails and plate then lightly tighten together pushing some excess out then set the rails on same plane and parallel etc. The putty gives plenty of time for adjustment and dries hard has metal.
It has dampening quality's has well so helps with vibes transferring thru frame. It drills and taps easy and fills any voids, I can shape to match radius etc and it easy grinds and sands if needed.
When set 24hr later I have a perfect hard surface that sets rails exactly on same plane. The rails can be removed and go back exactly on same level so no messing around with shims etc.

EddyCurrent
15-10-2013, 10:17 PM
Sounds like a plan, plastic metal would be okay too, I have some of that.

ba99297
16-10-2013, 11:29 PM
First of all thanks everybody for the participation to the thread.
Next i would like to introduce some of my conclusions and ask some things about all these that i have already read

1. I beam will not be used
2. For the rails support beams I am between these profiles
80X80 4 mm
80X80 5 mm
100X100 4 mm
100X100 5 mm
and for the table structure
80X80 4 mm or
80X80 5 mm
i want your advice



Jazzcnc wrote
Now regards the table Bed and getting it parallel to the cutter then don't worry this is not a problem.? Because every time you move the bed or in Fixed bed case Add the raiser block you MUST surface the table to be sure it's parallel to Cutter.

Jazzcnc when you say "MUST surface the table to be sure it's parallel to Cutter" you mean that the spindle should make a full pass over the cutting table and milling the table surface ?




Jazzcnc wrote
NOW what is VERY VERY important is that the X axis~(long axis) rails are on the same plane and not in twist.!! This is where all your efforts need to be concentrated on getting correct. The Bed could be Banana shaped and slopping at an angle it doesn't matter because after surfacing it will be flat and parallel to cutter BUT ONLY if the X axis rails are on the same plane. Any errors in this department affect the whole machine.

Several ways to ensure this but really only 2 that are realistic to the DIY builder. These are Epoxy levelling or adjustable top rail and careful measurement.
Epoxy is probably the easiest because it doesn't require accurate straight edges or equipment.! It's just more time consuming because of prep to surface to ensure clean and setting up dam walls and bridge etc . . .Plus it's messy and requires clean up afterwards!.


Here i have two question

1.when you say "adjustable top rail and careful measurement" you mean the X ( long) axis rails should be adjustable right?
2.when we talk about self leveling polyester epoxy, is it specific epoxy or common marine polyester can do the job. Should i need a primer in order the epoxy to bond with the metal?





Jazzcnc wrote
I recommend Digital drives with good resonance damping built in if building from steel. Also fill the Tubes with sand for best affect.


When you say "digital drives" you mean the motor drives. I reminds you that i will use 400watt yaskawa servo motors Sigma II generation, and i plan to put all the electronics not under the cutting table but to a separate enclosure in order to avoid vibrations for the electronics.


My main concern of using epoxy is the aging and the temperature effect to the table. I am talking about contraction expansion. The machine will be placed at my basement where i have temperatures from 8 ( winter ) to 26 ( summer ). Would that be a problem? What will happen if one day i decide to move the machine to another place. The truth is that epoxy look a good and easy solution, on the other hand i donít fell good if i donít have the ability to adjust. Also do we know how epoxy reacts. It is more than sure that epoxy doesnít have the same contraction expansion ratio as steel. I have heard that pro builders that use cast iron, leave the metal for aging for 10 years...
Thanks again everybody. If anyone has something to suggest i am anxious to hear

ba99297
16-10-2013, 11:43 PM
I spread a layer of Epoxy putty on the bottom plate. Then I put layer of plastic between rails and plate then lightly tighten together pushing some excess out then set the rails on same plane and parallel etc. The putty gives plenty of time for adjustment and dries hard has metal.
It has dampening quality's has well so helps with vibes transferring thru frame. It drills and taps easy and fills any voids, I can shape to match radius etc and it easy grinds and sands if needed.
When set 24hr later I have a perfect hard surface that sets rails exactly on same plane. The rails can be removed and go back exactly on same level so no messing around with shims etc.
To be honest, as my english arent good , i dont understand excactly what you did
When you say "I put layer of plastic between rails and plate" what you mean? what kind of plastic ? and when you say "between rails and plate" what do you mean? Your rails rest on a plate or on a square beam ? Sorry for asking but i dont get it

JAZZCNC
17-10-2013, 01:35 AM
2. For the rails support beams I am between these profiles
80X80 4 mm
80X80 5 mm
100X100 4 mm
100X100 5 mm
and for the table structure
80X80 4 mm or
80X80 5 mm
i want your advice

Any of those will be fine. Personally If mainly wood use then I'd go with 80x80x4 and save some money has it will be plenty strong enough.


Jazzcnc when you say "MUST surface the table to be sure it's parallel to Cutter" you mean that the spindle should make a full pass over the cutting table and milling the table surface ?

Yes exactly.


1.when you say "adjustable top rail and careful measurement" you mean the X ( long) axis rails should be adjustable right?
Yes exactly.


2.when we talk about self leveling polyester epoxy, is it specific epoxy or common marine polyester can do the job. Should i need a primer in order the epoxy to bond with the metal?

It must be solvent free epoxy to avoid shrinkage. No primer is needed just very clean oil free surface also best if rough surface so epoxy binds to it better.


When you say "digital drives" you mean the motor drives. I reminds you that i will use 400watt yaskawa servo motors Sigma II generation

Yes sorry forgot you where planning to use servos.



My main concern of using epoxy is the aging and the temperature effect to the table. I am talking about contraction expansion. The machine will be placed at my basement where i have temperatures from 8 ( winter ) to 26 ( summer ). Would that be a problem?

I've not had any problems with heat/cold, My workshop can go from -8 (winter) to 30 (summer thou rare here in UK) so don't think you will have a problem.


What will happen if one day i decide to move the machine to another place.

Nothing will happen everything will remain the same. Remember the Epoxy is not to level the machine.!! . . . It's just so the two rail top surfaces self level on the same plane.
To give an massively over exaggerated example.!!
Imagine the rails or the full machine before applying epoxy are not on level surface, lets say 10deg slope. When you apply the epoxy to rails they will self level on the same plane. Looking at the epoxy From the side it will have 10deg taper.
If you then move the machine to a level surface the rails will slope 10deg . . BUT . .They will still be on the same plane provided the frame is stiff and doesn't twist when you move it.
This is why My machine works in vertical position(15deg angle) because doesn't matter if the rails or bed are at an angle only matters that the two rails are on the same plane.


The truth is that epoxy look a good and easy solution, on the other hand i don’t fell good if i don’t have the ability to adjust.

The idea of epoxy is so you don't have the need to adjust.! . . BUT . .If you want the best of both worlds then have adjustable top rail and epoxy the surface has well. . . This way you can fine tune using shims if you feel the need.


Also do we know how epoxy reacts. It is more than sure that epoxy doesn’t have the same contraction expansion ratio as steel. I have heard that pro builders that use cast iron, leave the metal for aging for 10 years...

I've been using the Epoxy method for 3-4yrs now and I've not had any issues but if you want to be 100% sure and follow tradition then leave it to set for 10 years. . .Lol . . .( By which time we will have moved on to making DIY Star trek Replicators . .:hysterical: )


To be honest, as my english arent good , i dont understand excactly what you did
When you say "I put layer of plastic between rails and plate" what you mean? what kind of plastic ?

The layer of plastic is just a barrier to stop the top rail being bonded to the mounting plate so it can be removed. When the Epoxy putty has set hard the rail is unbolted and plastic barrier is removed and thrown away. The plastic can be any type, old carrier bag anything. Someone suggested to me taping the rail with parcel tape which I did try and does work ok.


when you say "between rails and plate" what do you mean? Your rails rest on a plate or on a square beam ? Sorry for asking but i dont get it

Look at the picture Eddy posted and you will see the plates which the rails bolt onto. Epoxy putty is then spread on these plates, then piece of plastic placed between rail and epoxy to stop bonding together.
I then set the rails on the same plane and parallel with a combination of temporary shims and adjusting bolts. Effectively the Epoxy putty is acting has a Permanent shim when dry.

Hope this makes more sense.?

Boyan Silyavski
17-10-2013, 03:14 PM
First of all thanks everybody for the participation to the thread.
Next i would like to introduce some of my conclusions and ask some things about all these that i have already read

1. I beam will not be used
2. For the rails support beams I am between these profiles
80X80 4 mm
80X80 5 mm
100X100 4 mm
100X100 5 mm
and for the table structure
80X80 4 mm or
80X80 5 mm
i want your advice


Look from what you started and where you jumped- 100x100x4 and 100x100x5

Read again what Dean /jazzcnc/ told you, first be sure for what you use it mainly and then decide on the thickness. Go to your local metal shop and check for your self about the 100x100x5 and 80x80x5. This is way too much. Ok, people use them but for builds that intend to cut mainly aluminum and so.





My main concern of using epoxy is the aging and the temperature effect to the table. I am talking about contraction expansion. The machine will be placed at my basement where i have temperatures from 8 ( winter ) to 26 ( summer ). Would that be a problem? What will happen if one day i decide to move the machine to another place. The truth is that epoxy look a good and easy solution, on the other hand i donít fell good if i donít have the ability to adjust. Also do we know how epoxy reacts. It is more than sure that epoxy doesnít have the same contraction expansion ratio as steel. I have heard that pro builders that use cast iron, leave the metal for aging for 10 years...
Thanks again everybody. If anyone has something to suggest i am anxious to hear

Don,t get me wrong, but your main concern should be squaring the rails in one plane. And choosing square supported rails, not roundish.
I assume you don't have even a straight edge and you worry about contraction and expansion. First think do you need such an accuracy, then do you have the actual means to measure it, then how much is the cost of the tools to measure it...
For wood and plastic and occasional aluminum you need much lower accuracy than you are contemplating.

I mean relax, and be careful not to make some obvious mistake. Like making a cnc for another kind of job. remember the old saying: " The machine is strong as its weakest part". I constantly meditate on this when i catch myself overbuilding

EddyCurrent
19-10-2013, 03:32 PM
Just grabbed these out of a video I saw if any use

104471044810449

details are here 3D Model of CNC Router c4d, obj, 3ds, fbx, dxf, skp, iges (http://3dexport.com/3dmodel-cnc-router-67465.htm)
and it looks like they had to add some triangulation to the legs after these photos

ba99297
27-10-2013, 08:37 PM
So far thanks everybody for your answers
Your advices keep me away from mistakes that i think could cost me money time and poor final result
After all these answers, i decide

to use part of Silyavskis' table plan ( for part of the table that the X rails rest on) .
Not to use the I beams
Not to use adjustable beams for the X axis rails and go on with the epoxy solution.
This choice means that the table is solid as rock. So before i go on with the 3d design i want your advice about the table diagonal reinforcing.
Here are some autocad plans. They represent side view of X axis. I design 4 solutions ( A,B,C,D )
The upper yellow line represents profiled rails, and the green color is adjustable legs
Tell me your opinion.
I haven’t decide yet if i will go with 80X80 or 100X100 box section. It depends from the cost. The following plans are made with 80X80 box section
Thanks for your time


10509

EddyCurrent
27-10-2013, 10:08 PM
I like B but not everyone will

Boyan Silyavski
28-10-2013, 05:12 PM
I like A but if i were you, would turn the 4 diagonals 180 degree/ mirror them upside. That will separate on smaller sections and support even further the X rails support + when pushed from upside will make a stretching force to the lower beam, not pushing, as it is now.
I mean instead of MM WW

If full height is desired, as Eddy says B is best, simple and strong + the diagonals will stretch again the lower beam, if pushed from above. And we all know steel can not be stretched:victorious:

ba99297
28-10-2013, 08:09 PM
Silyavski before i check for any new post at my thread i design in autocad this

10510

and then i read your post
I think that we are thinking in the same way
To be honest you inspire me for my table plan ( especialy for the rail support beams ) thank you.
Aslo thanks everybody else like Eddycurrent and of course Dean for their ideas
Day after day, thread after thread post after post i feel that the knowledge and the experience of people that willing to help, give me the ability to make a solid machine. You know it is very important to make a step and have no question to be answered. That is what i almost fell now about the table plan. May be some small changes will be done, but the basic consept i think is this.
I will post 3d plans soon
PS A machine that is having rail height at 70 cm from the ground, has any disadvantage compared to a machine that is having rail height at 90-100 cm from the ground?
I will be happy to hear any other advice.
The only question that is waiting for answer is the beam dimensions 80X80 or 100X100 and of cource the thickness
And here i have some 3d plans.
I will come back with another plan a little bit different
1051210513105141051510516

Boyan Silyavski
29-10-2013, 05:03 PM
It will work both with 100x100x3 and 80x80x 3 or 4mm. Depends on how strong would be your gantry, what spindle you will like to mount and how further you will like to push it.
I suggest you make your gantry from 2 pieces of the same profile you will use soldered together, hence 200x100 or 160x80 or do it from aluminum, the way Dean makes his machines, with a ball screw hidden in the gantry, depends what means you have.

The drawings look very good. Now if you aim at certain weight or to be able to pass through normal 1m wide door, don't make it higher . if you want to make it higher and at the same time light, just make the legs longer. Also if length, weight is a problem, you can lift the 4 lower beams to the middle of the M , and remove the middle leg below this point, this will not compromise the strength.

If you aim aluminum and hard stuff mainly, maybe a gantry like Jonathans will be better, look at his exemplary build (http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/router-build-logs/6484-sufficiently-strong-machine.html)

ba99297
30-10-2013, 10:50 PM
I suggest you make your gantry from 2 pieces of the same profile you will use soldered together, hence 200x100 or 160x80
The gantry will probably made as you say from 2 pieces of 80X80 or 100X100 profile, covered with 10mm laser cut aluminium plate just for acuracy for the holes distances. This plate will be bolted on the gantry box section and may be adjustable in order to achieve paralelism with the table.


depends what means you have.

As for the means, i dont have mill i dont have lathe


maybe a gantry like Jonathans will be better, look at his exemplary build
I have read many times Jonathans thread. So many in order to understand what i am reading. NO COMMENT. What else can i say. I cant follow this plan beause it is out of my budjet, and i dont have the means and the knowledge to do such job. For now the only think i can do is design 4-5 type of tables and ask the polite guys of mycncuk to give me their advice and make their corrections

ba99297
30-10-2013, 11:56 PM
After hours of design i come back with 3 final (!!!!) plans.

Plan A
( i have already post it but i repost it near the other two plans )
It is the most simple within the other two and also needs the less steel
10527105281052610529



Plan B
It is the heaviest within the other two
The difference with A is that the beams of the cutting table are lieing between the two X axis rails support beams. It also have extra 40X40 beams for reinforcing X rails beams
10532105301053110533




Plan C
10536105341053510537
This plan combines A with B. The beams of the cutting table have been welded as plan A and the reinforcing of X axis beams is as plan B

All plans are made with 80X80 box section steel. Plan B and C also have 40X40 diagonal box section between X axis rails support beams
I am waiting for your advices
Thank you

EddyCurrent
31-10-2013, 03:58 PM
Plan A must be strong enough for this size machine. I know that silyavski likes to have the horizontal beams supported at 2 points like your end view but you loose the triangle in the middle and that is not good.
Also where there are no diagonals or triangular pieces on the cutting table to stop it twisting.
Having said that it will still be very strong if you make it like the drawing.

ba99297
31-10-2013, 05:36 PM
I know that silyavski likes to have the horizontal beams supported at 2 points like your end view but you loose the triangle in the middle and that is not good.
If you notice all the three plans carefully you will se that the x rails supported beams have contact with the ground at 3 points not 2. It is possible you get confused between the side and the front view.
At the side view you can see that every pair of supported rail beams has straight contact in the middle with the groun as my plan have 3 ( red ) foot at every side.
From left to right i upload Isometric-Top-Front-Side view for every plan

Also where there are no diagonals or triangular pieces on the cutting table to stop it twisting.
You are right about the diagonals. I will put them to the plan. Thanks for your advice

alex wight
31-10-2013, 06:13 PM
Is there any need for the bars connecting the legs at the bottom. I'm constructing mine at the moment, interested in the replies.

EddyCurrent
31-10-2013, 10:20 PM
Is there any need for the bars connecting the legs at the bottom. I'm constructing mine at the moment, interested in the replies.

Alex, that is a very good point. I think the only reason they are in there is to provide a means of adding triangulation support in the horizontal plane at ground level ( i.e. some metal to weld the triangulation members on to) but if enough triangulation was put into the cutting bed maybe that would be enough ? I'm also at this stage in my build log and reluctant to start cutting the metal yet as I feel the best solution has not yet been reached.

ba99297, I was referring to the front view, the dark colour one.

alex wight
31-10-2013, 10:25 PM
I've built one of my sides, roughly the same design, but without the material connecting the legs. As there's angled supports at the top, it should be strong enough. It's had the go ahead, so I'm happy to continue with the other side.

Boyan Silyavski
01-11-2013, 11:35 AM
Is there any need for the bars connecting the legs at the bottom. I'm constructing mine at the moment, interested in the replies.

Actually no need, that's what i said before. Or they cut be cut in 2 and raised higher at the middle of the M, that's what i suggested before.

With 80x80 profile or bigger the machine will not twist , so no need for triangulation on the bed itself. remember that the spoilboard willnot permit eventual twist there.

However for the sake of absolute rigidity i would have soldered additional plate vertically along the center beam of the bed itself , that will strengthen immensely the bed

PS. option 1 looks perfect

JAZZCNC
01-11-2013, 09:11 PM
Any of these are strong enough but the design can be simplified regards building and be just has strong. No time at moment to get into full debate about why etc but here's frame I've drawn that's similar.

Main points are the sides and Bed are welded flat has separate units then joined together with end braces etc. The Bed being a separate unit means the outer frame pieces support the bed material at the edges, the way yours is drawn the edges will be unsupported and could bend or flex under cutting conditions.
Lower diagonal braces help keep machine frame square and stiff, remember it's not just strength you have to consider there's resonances to deal with and bracing helps reduce resonance.

Welding major parts in sections on a bench then either welding or bolting together is much easier than struggling trying to weld individual pieces together and keep every thing sqaure and flat, aligned etc.

One other note.!! On this design the top rail extends.? This is to make full use of the Bed without wasting material having the bed/frame longer than needed which can't be used.

EddyCurrent
01-11-2013, 10:01 PM
One other note.!! On this design the top rail extends.? This is to make full use of the Bed without wasting material having the bed/frame longer than needed which can't be used.

Good idea and after all these frame discussions I think I'm now at a stage to start cutting metal this weekend.

Boyan Silyavski
01-11-2013, 10:18 PM
Deans design is very good, after all he is far more experienced at building and dealing with vibrations. I like the Z at the baze, that would definitely help with resonance. I like the extra bed frame, i have thought it but never included it in my designs, due to extra weight.


Dont get me wrong on what i will say, but i am fan of simplicity. I will say the same what i said to Tony at his thread (http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/router-build-logs/5302-tiddy-cnc-2.html)

Look at that design below and adjust it to your needs if you like it. Just don't change anything radically, cause in its deceiving simplicity there is a lot of reason. In fact 2-3 months of reasoning. There are no random distances there. Tony changed it a bit and you can see his great looking machine. He made it from 80x80, mine is 100x100x3
If you look at my thread i have a frame soldered in my garage with the same design and it has deflection under 100kg of load which is irrelevant.

Now what Dean says about resonance is true. Its not the same as stiffness. In fact in some cases the stiffness will help the resonance, especially in our case where we build machines from thin walled profiles.The great thing about my design is that all the forces are working only at the upper part of the structure, its stiffness does not depend at all of lower elements. The legs are just legs / i am talking about 100x100 or short 80x80/.

Now there are hundreds of points why resonance will not happen at all in the machine i am building, nor twist or bending, even if i were able to route deep aluminum and why not steel / which will not happen cause i limited it with 0.8kw spindle/ . This points are too long to explain, but be careful, cause these are particular decisions, like that the machine i am building will have 100mm thick MDF bead, underneath plastic sheet or aluminum sheet and etc...

Long story short, just take a look and study it. Use it if you like it. It implement Deans idea of the shorter table. Also implements subtle ways of dealing with resonance, like the beams of the bed gradually don't coincide with the short vertical ones. In fact in my next build everything will be slightly offset here and there, to kill the harmonics.
The best thing is if like Dean says the bed beams flex, at a later time can be added ribs bolted to them vertically and if there is a twist , you can add the same Z diagonals like in Deans drawing of the lower part just drilling from below and bolting. Add if when you need, why overbuild now? Not to speak of that with 100x100 profile is way overbuild as my measurements show on my build.



10557


10558

EddyCurrent
01-11-2013, 10:35 PM
The best thing is if like Dean says the bed beams flex, at a later time can be added ribs bolted to them vertically and if there is a twist , you can add the same Z diagonals like in Deans drawing of the lower part just drilling from below and bolting. Add if when you need, why overbuild now?

Exactly my plan, if there are problems later the frame can always be upgraded.

JAZZCNC
02-11-2013, 01:34 AM
Now there are hundreds of points why resonance will not happen at all in the machine i am building, nor twist or bending, even if i were able to route deep aluminum and why not steel / which will not happen cause i limited it with 0.8kw spindle/ . This points are too long to explain, but be careful, cause these are particular decisions, like that the machine i am building will have 100mm thick MDF bead, underneath plastic sheet or aluminum sheet and etc...

Silyavski think Your fooling your self if you think you won't get any resonance, Even machines built from Cast iron get resonance so you have zero chance of getting None with hollow Steel structure.!! . . . . . Yes it will be less than machines built with thinner material or of lesser construction but I guarantee you'll get resonance which shows at the tool when cutting slightly deep in aluminium and definitely in steel.

All the frames shown will be more than enough for DIY use right upto cutting aluminium and massive overkill for most softer materials. But it would be foolish to think just using larger dimension material means you'll get no resonance, no matter how you arrange the joints or welds etc.

Also what's the point of going to all the trouble of building machine that doesn't deflect more than 0.01mm only to use a bed material that will deflect more than an elastic band.??? . . . . Waste of time doing all your doing if your going to use MDF in any part of the bed other than has a spoil board.!!
Even then for any kind of acceptable accuracy you'll have to surface it for every Job.!!

One more point regards adding stiffeners at a later date.?? . . . .WHY . . . when it can be done at the beginning. When ever you weld you have risk of heat distortion so it's not a good idea to be doing this at later date.
Also has most who have built a machine will know and back me up on ounce you have started using the machine you'll never stop to do even simple things let alone major upgrades like welding in stiffeners. . . . . It's known fact if you don't do all the planned things before powering up machine they'll never get done ounce it's working. . .Lol

Ba99274 any of the frames shown including your own designs will be good enough so don't worry you won't go wrong.

Boyan Silyavski
02-11-2013, 10:38 AM
Hi Dean,
First i want to thank you for the help with the machine we talk about that i am building for a friend which wouldn't be possible without your kind help.

I absolutely agree with what you say. I wouldn't want to mislead somebody. I am always speaking in relative terms here, meaning having in mind DIY machines, with best possible price functionality relation, designed to be multifunctional, mainly for wood and for the occasional aluminum job.

That is why i said it will be good if the design is not copied but adjusted to the particular needs. So let me clear some points about the specific design, not to you i mean , cause i kn ow you know it, but to those who read:

-Its meant for wood and plastics. Its meant also for aluminum but only when additional bed is fixed to raise the job
-its meant for deep 3d jobs mainly and Z axis travel -170-200mm
-Its meant for a trunion table to fit for aditional axis for 3d jobs
-its meant if need arises for a removable plasma water bed to be fitted for occasional jobs.

In other words its meant to be all type of machine, so certain sacrifices has to be accepted.



Silyavski think Your fooling your self if you think you won't get any resonance, Even machines built from Cast iron get resonance so you have zero chance of getting None with hollow Steel structure.!! . . . . . Yes it will be less than machines built with thinner material or of lesser construction but I guarantee you'll get resonance which shows at the tool when cutting slightly deep in aluminium and definitely in steel.

That is exactly why the frame is overbuild and a small spindle is used






Also what's the point of going to all the trouble of building machine that doesn't deflect more than 0.01mm only to use a bed material that will deflect more than an elastic band.??? . . . . Waste of time doing all your doing if your going to use MDF in any part of the bed other than has a spoil board.!!
Even then for any kind of acceptable accuracy you'll have to surface it for every Job.!!

I told that to the friend i am building the machine for. In any case, the machine will have 20mm aluminum sheet bed. Over the aluminum 10mm sacrifitial hard phenolic plastic sacrifitial layer. Over it when necessary will be fitted solid 100mm high block of MDF, ply wood or wood, and yes it will be resurfaced each time, i told him so. So basically nothing would flex there. you misunderstood me because of my English, the machine will have 20mm aluminum bed at least,ribbed where necessary, not MDF!



One more point regards adding stiffeners at a later date.?? . . . .WHY . . . when it can be done at the beginning. When ever you weld you have risk of heat distortion so it's not a good idea to be doing this at later date.
Also has most who have built a machine will know and back me up on ounce you have started using the machine you'll never stop to do even simple things let alone major upgrades like welding in stiffeners. . . . . It's known fact if you don't do all the planned things before powering up machine they'll never get done ounce it's working. . .Lol

You couldn't be more right. Thats the truth. My smalll cnc has 2 flimsy bearings and i cant find the time even to dismantle and tighten, as i dont stop it at all.
So I believe it would not be necessary at all. Just said it to remind that if a mistake is made with the design, can be fixed later when testing the machine.



So in conclusion/my conclusion i mean :joker:/ , if maximum flexibility and at the same time rigidity for heavy duty aluminum jobs is wanted there are only 3 ways to go:
- Make a specific purpose machine from the beginning like Jonathan did for his friend, with removable bed
or if larger machine is desired:
-make a machine similar to how Dean does them, with removable adjustable bed and bottom frame structure
-make a machine the way i propose and use additional bolted beams to raise the bed or lower it, look at the picture below
In these both cases, at the end the material we use is roughly the same. main point in my design being limited space, so the legs can be removed without compromising the integrity of the design and having to redraw it again.

10563

Of course that design can be further developed with cost savings in mind. For example the middle 2 beams from the lower bed can be made dis-mountable, so they can be used for the upper bed and so on... Look picture below.

Thats what i like about the constructive discussion. makes me think and develop. The idea of the removable 2 beams just made me realize what savings that would be on my next 1250x2500 design



10567

ba99297
04-11-2013, 09:25 PM
The Bed being a separate unit means the outer frame pieces support the bed material at the edges, the way yours is drawn the edges will be unsupported and could bend or flex under cutting conditions.
Excuse me Dean but i donít understand why my cutting table has unsupported edges. At every plan the cutting table beams are welded at the side pieces. Could you please make it more clear?




Ba99274 any of the frames shown including your own designs will be good enough so don't worry you won't go wrong.

Thank for your good words. The truth is that i donít have time pressure. When i make a step i want to be sure about what i am going to do
I am searching over the internet for this construction about a year
The last few months although i thought i knew very much about the subject i find out that mycncuk exist
The answers that i take from the members make me change many of my thoughts
For example i didnít know that the ball screws have critical speed. My first plan was to connect the motors straight to the ballscrews. Imagine how i would fell when i broke a ballscrew 1500 long running at 3000 rpm. I also thought that I beam is the strongest type of beam..... ( May be for vertical forces )
So every day someone in here give me an advice or correct me, i fell happy about avoiding another mistake

Thanks everybody so much for your help
P.S Sorry for my English

Jonathan
04-11-2013, 11:05 PM
Since it's already been said that most of the frame designs posted here would be more than adequate, I'll just highlight some general points which may be useful.

I think the frame design silyavski posted in post #30 is well thought out since, among other things, it makes relatively efficient use of material. I'd be inclined to swap the two 100x100mm beams and 80mm spacers with a single piece, perhaps 200x100mm possibly with a higher wall thickness than the rest (or scaled down accordingly if making the rest of the frame from smaller sections). This will obtain a similar stiffness to the original, but reduces the number of pieces to cut by 12 and the number of welded joints is reduced by 20. This would save a lot of time and reduce residual stresses due to there being less welding. Clearly it may not be as cost effective as making the whole frame from the same size material.

Something else to bear in mind is that increasing the size of the steel you use can sometimes make the structure strong enough, with a lot less work than adding lots of small supporting pieces and without necessarily increasing the cost. For example, if you have a piece of 60mm box section with 3mm wall thickness supported at both ends, then in general increasing it to a 80mm beam of the same wall thickness will reduce the deflection to less than 2.4 times the original.

Also, it's better to increase the size of the beam (within reason), than to increase the wall thickness. Continuing with the previous example, the 80mm beam will cost about 33% (assuming it's priced by mass) more than the 60mm beam, so suppose you instead invested that 33% extra in getting a 60mm box section with 3mm thickness to match the weight of the 80mm beam. Both sections will cost about the same, however the 60mm beam is still only just over half as strong as the 80mm, as you've only made it about 33% stronger (not 240% as above). The reason for this is that increasing the wall thickness only gets a linear gain (y=k*x) in strength, compared to a quartic (y=k*x^4) relationship from increasing the size. So in general, you only use a greater wall thickness when you haven't got space to fit a bigger section.

With regards to resonance, MDF is actually a great material to use for the machine bed as it has such good damping properties. I had a lot less problems with resonance on my machine with the MDF bed than I do now with aluminium. If I'm machining an aluminium part for which the finish is more important than the accuracy, I'll sometimes put a piece of 18mm MDF between the part and the aluminium bed as the MDF damps the vibrations, making the 'sweet spot' to get a good finish a bigger spot.

JAZZCNC
05-11-2013, 04:42 PM
Something else to bear in mind is that increasing the size of the steel you use can sometimes make the structure strong enough, with a lot less work than adding lots of small supporting pieces and without necessarily increasing the cost. For example, if you have a piece of 60mm box section with 3mm wall thickness supported at both ends, then in general increasing it to a 80mm beam of the same wall thickness will reduce the deflection to less than 2.4 times the original.

Also, it's better to increase the size of the beam (within reason), than to increase the wall thickness. Continuing with the previous example, the 80mm beam will cost about 33% (assuming it's priced by mass) more than the 60mm beam, so suppose you instead invested that 33% extra in getting a 60mm box section with 3mm thickness to match the weight of the 80mm beam. Both sections will cost about the same, however the 60mm beam is still only just over half as strong as the 80mm, as you've only made it about 33% stronger (not 240% as above). The reason for this is that increasing the wall thickness only gets a linear gain (y=k*x) in strength, compared to a quartic (y=k*x^4) relationship from increasing the size. So in general, you only use a greater wall thickness when you haven't got space to fit a bigger section.

Well ounce again I'm going to have to disagree.!! . . . Not on the strength basis has that's true but on the fact it's better to use larger.? It's only better if the application warrants it and in this case it doesn't. The thicker wall thickness will be more beneficial because it will be less resonant, going Larger on the tube size just increases resonance. For this application then 60mm tube will be more than strong enough so strength isn't a problem so any extra efforts to improve would be better focused on reducing resonance and going thicker on the wall would help here.



With regards to resonance, MDF is actually a great material to use for the machine bed as it has such good damping properties. I had a lot less problems with resonance on my machine with the MDF bed than I do now with aluminium. If I'm machining an aluminium part for which the finish is more important than the accuracy, I'll sometimes put a piece of 18mm MDF between the part and the aluminium bed as the MDF damps the vibrations, making the 'sweet spot' to get a good finish a bigger spot.

Oh dear again I'm disagreeing. . Lol . . I don't have any problems with my aluminium bed and differing finish.? I get the same finish regardless of whether I'm working direct on bed or on any other sacrificial surface. If your bed is affecting finish then reckon you've under built it or your clamping methods are poor.!!
If anything I get more trouble when using MDF than I do when working direct on bed because material can slide if cutting deep, direct on the bed I get much better hold down.
Also Poor finish comes mostly from the tool chattering so if your struggling with finish then I'd be looking at the machine strength and resonance, hence why I put more importance on material Thickness than Size when it comes to steel. (obviously size has to be fit for application)

BA 99297 I'll say it again to be clear "Any of the designs will be strong enough" so if any more focus is needed then I'd direct it to reducing resonance rather than strength.

Oh when I said about unsupported edges I meant you don't have any members to support the Bed base material at the edges. On your designs the edges between table supports won't support the material or any sacrificial material. It may seem a small detail but it can make a difference and for the little extra material/work it's not worth not doing IMO.!

Jonathan
05-11-2013, 04:54 PM
Well ounce again I'm going to have to disagree.!! . . . Not on the strength basis has that's true but on the fact it's better to use larger.? It's only better if the application warrants it and in this case it doesn't. The thicker wall thickness will be more beneficial because it will be less resonant, going Larger on the tube size just increases resonance. For this application then 60mm tube will be more than strong enough so strength isn't a problem so any extra efforts to improve would be better focused on reducing resonance and going thicker on the wall would help here.

I don't disagree with you. If you read what I said carefully you'll see that I acknowledged other factors come into it, and was making general comments, not specific assertions for this build.




Oh dear again I'm disagreeing. . Lol . . I don't have any problems with my aluminium bed and differing finish.? I get the same finish regardless of whether I'm working direct on bed or on any other sacrificial surface. If your bed is affecting finish then reckon you've under built it or your clamping methods are poor.!!
If anything I get more trouble when using MDF than I do when working direct on bed because material can slide if cutting deep, direct on the bed I get much better hold down.
Also Poor finish comes mostly from the tool chattering so if your struggling with finish then I'd be looking at the machine strength and resonance, hence why I put more importance on material Thickness than Size when it comes to steel. (obviously size has to be fit for application)

I agree that if my gantry was stronger it would help reduce chatter, but it's the same gantry with or without the MDF bed and the MDF sheet placed on top of the aluminium bed on my machine definitely makes it easier to get a good finish, so it must be having a damping effect. I'll reiterate for clarity, by 'good finish' I mean 'looks good' - the part itself is clearly not going to be as accurate if it's clamped on MDF.

Also, that's not to say the machine wont get a good finish using just the aluminium bed - it's just more difficult to get the right parameters. Here's a recent example:
10584

ba99297
05-11-2013, 11:23 PM
BA 99297 I'll say it again to be clear "Any of the designs will be strong enough" so if any more focus is needed then I'd direct it to reducing resonance rather than strength.
Dean or anybody else could you please suggest me a link ( or links) where i can read about resonance dampening basics ( i mean what i should avoid in order to reduce resonance )
So far ( tell me if i am wrong ) i realize that low mass and symmetry amplify resonance is that correct?


Oh when I said about unsupported edges I meant you don't have any members to support the Bed base material at the edges. On your designs the edges between table supports won't support the material or any sacrificial material. It may seem a small detail but it can make a difference and for the little extra material/work it's not worth not doing IMO.!
Now i understand what you mean but i didn’t say that vertically to the table beams i will put t slot aluminium profile ( a friend of mine who makes solar parks on the houses roofs has many meters of them)

ba99297
26-12-2013, 01:30 PM
Hi everybody
These days i have time to go on with my cnc design
For 3d design i use solid works
After the table i will go on with the gantry etc
I would like to know if there is any online library with ready to use elements like bf/bk bearings. profiled rails, ballscrews ballnuts that can be imported in solidwork
Thanks

EddyCurrent
26-12-2013, 02:49 PM
If you don't find any maybe this would be an idea ?

There are quite a few models for use with free program, Sketchup
cnc router - 3D Warehouse Search (http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=cnc+router&styp=m&btnG=Keres%C3%A9s&reps=8)

There is a plugin for Sketchup that allows export to STL
Convert Sketchup SKP files to DXF or STL | guitar-list (http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl)

I think Solidworks can import STL files

ba99297
30-12-2013, 01:24 AM
After thinking that welding all the beams together, according to the previews plans i would have issues with the big weight, i decided to split the contruction into two , the bench and the CNC that will sit on that bench.
So i introduce the CNC pictures first
So i have the main frame
11104

Then with the red color is the cutting table made by 80X80X5 beam
11105

over the cutting table i will put aluminium profile tha will be bolted on the red cutting table. That profile has T slot for clamping item that will be cutted
11106

And here we have some picures of the construction with all the items together
111071110811109111101111111112

if i want more depth for 3d cuts i will remove the cutting table(80mm) with the T slot( nearly 40mm) and i will put a 20mm mdf. That will give me about 100mm (80+40-20) more depth

I am waitting for your comments

Thanks

Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
30-12-2013, 01:49 AM
Nice. Looks great,

What size of the steel profile you decided on? If 80mm or bigger, you don't need the triangular plates. Believe me, will not move. Reason - the short profiles will hold it firm enough. If you insist, make them L shaped, so they will not bother you fitting longer than the table pieces.

And as for the size of profile, i am with Jonathan. Bigger the profile, the better. If resonance, its easier to drill a hole and fill it with something later.

I said it earlier some where but one of the best ways to fight resonance is avoiding perfect symmetry in the machine, meaning all pieces spaced same distance and mirrored exactly. Offsetting each piece even by 1cm here and there will have enormous impact. Same when avoiding mirroring

ba99297
30-12-2013, 09:12 AM
Nice. Looks great,

What size of the steel profile you decided on?
At the above plans i use 80X80X5 beam for the red table and also for grey frame except the 4 lower beams that will have contact with the bench. Those four beams are 100X100X4. I think that the triangular pieces will help to achieve triangulation and parallelism and also stiffness.
I agree with you that if avoid symmetry and mirroring that will help to reduce resonance. As for the beam size i think even 80X80 or 100X100 will not have much difference to the final result.
The t-slot profiles are aluminium profiles that are used for for clamping solar panels at the roofs. I design the profile from a piece that i had.
I will come back with the gantry design. I will use one motor for X axis with double ballscrews and i may use double nut (preloaded with a spring) for each side
I want you opinion about this option. What kind o f spring is suitable for this use and where can I find it. I also would like to know what would be a good distance between Y and Z axis profiled rails ( i will use 20mm profiled rails ). Also what will be a good distance between the carriages of X axis ( outer side of carriages )

So far thanks everybody for the help

Vagelis

JAZZCNC
30-12-2013, 11:25 AM
Hi Vagelis,

Looks ok to me. :thumsup: . . . Just a Couple of simple things that will help.

You could drop those inner triangle braces and just keep the inside corner ones but make them little larger, there will be more room with others gone. Not much gain strength wise from them being there and not having them means less welding which will lessen the chance of heat distortion.! . . . . Would do the same with corner braces for the Bed frame just to help keep it square.

Also the outer End triangles will be better placed on the outside of the box section and made larger so there is more contact area, they will also cover the ends of the section. Then when you weld just put short welds but on both edges. Again this lessens the chance of heat distortion by allowing short weld runs and balancing the welds pushing/pulling action.

ba99297
30-12-2013, 02:10 PM
Dean i made some corrections according to your advices. I am not sure i understood everything you said ( as my english are not excellent)
Let the photos talk

1111811117111191111511116
In order to go on with the plans, it would be good if somebody told me about Y and Z rails distances and distance between carriages of X axis. Finally i want your advice about X axis double preloaded ballnuts

Thanks

Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
30-12-2013, 05:26 PM
Hi Vagelis,

Normally people here on the forum use ball nuts and ballscrews bought from China. The most recommended vendors are Fred from BST Automation/aliexpress/ and Chai from linearmotionbearings /ebay/. BST for sure can provide the double ball nuts , i assume Chai also. No reason to buy 2 single, but depends on the design. On Jonathans build i asked about the spacers spring washers, he pointed from where, so the info should be somewhere there. Their prices are very similar, both do perfect machining, so really its up to you.

To resume various advices for my builds, that i received mainly from Dean and Jonathan , for your size machine
if stepper driven 1:1 with short belts and pulleys on all axis:
-short belt HDT5 15 size, if heavy gantry maybe 25 size, pulleys 20t
-z 1605 screw
-gantry 1610 screw if mainly woodworking for faster speeds ,1605 if mainly aluminum
-long axis 2010 or 2005 respectively, i see no reason to go to 25xx size

the following is my personal understanding:

-gantry supports ~ 30cm/normal/ to 40cm/heavy duty/ spacing of the bearing blocks , this including the blocks-
-gantry , depends on the design, but ~20cm spacing vertical and 25 horisontal i see as minimum./ including bearings./ 30 and 30 will make very strong machine/

PS. Dont be cheap and buy Hiwin or cheaper Chinese square rails not round

JAZZCNC
30-12-2013, 06:13 PM
Dean i made some corrections according to your advices. I am not sure i understood everything you said ( as my english are not excellent)
Let the photos talk

Yes you have it correct but you can afford to make the triangles little smaller to avoid interfering with material, Or shape them to do same thing.

Now regards the Gantry bearing spacing then 300mm for X axis(long axis) and 200-250mm for Y axis will be fine for most work. Like Silyavski says the wider the more stable but the figures I've given I know work fine esp when using profiled linear bearings.

Regards the twinball nuts then I never use twin ballnuts so can't help here and to be honest I don't see the need for a router type machine. They are Ok for a Milling machines that need to hold tight tolerances but in this case I think your just adding extra expense and work, along with extra maintenance for gains that you don't really need or will probably never see due to other weakness in the machine.?

Remember the machine is only good has it's weakest link and at this size then a single ballnut won't be the weak link so any gains won't be fully seen and the gains you'll get from 2 nuts over 1 nut will be very small to start with and I honestly think you won't see any improvement worth the effort or expense.!!

Ballscrew sizes and pitch then

20mm Diameter 10mm pitch for X axis, don't go with 5mm pitch even if aluminium just change the gearing on the pulleys. Don't use 25mm diameter far to large.!
16mm Diameter 10mm pitch for Y axis, don't go with 5mm pitch even if aluminium just change the gearing on the pulleys. Can use 20mm if you like thou won't accelerate quite has fast 16mm but it will still be plenty good enough and that bit less likely to whip.
16mm diameter 5mm pitch for Z axis.

ba99297
31-12-2013, 10:46 AM
You guys are a treasure
Your advices is for me GOLD
I go on with my plans. I add profiled rails and carriages ( downloaded from hiwin site). Before I go on with my gantry design I would like your opinion about the issues that I will come up with. What are the the points that I have to be careful. This is my progress

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But I am wondering if the ballscrew sould be placed between the two 80X80 beams of the gantry, in front of Y axis (near z axis ) or in the back of Y axis. I also wonder about the best way to connect Y axis with X axis carriages.
Any idea will be helpful

Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
01-01-2014, 11:02 PM
But I am wondering if the ballscrew sould be placed between the two 80X80 beams of the gantry, in front of Y axis (near z axis ) or in the back of Y axis. I also wonder about the best way to connect Y axis with X axis carriages.
Any idea will be helpful

Vagelis


Hi,
many different schools of thought here. Basically depends on what you aim to achieve, what rigidity you aim for, the overall weight of gantry you will finish with, and how you intend to move this weight, how fast and not at last the money that you can spend on the structure, the motors and the drivers.

To resume it all for the gantry sides: 1 side plate like at the drawings could be ok if you keep the gantry not raised, directly on the sliding plates, if you raise the gantry you will have to do a profile like structure to make it stiff and strong in all directions/ possibly from 10mm thick steel sheet will be best/. There is a calculator in the sticky post for that purpose.

Now to the gantry drawing itself. Have in mind that this is not the voice of experience, i am like you building now my 2 first machines, however i gave it a lot of thought:

The typical:

-Screw at the back will work, many make their machines that way, combined with the rails on top and bottom of the gantry. That is how i designed my first build.
Points to consider: more complicated Z design, rails need more time to be aligned, care should be taken for the Z strength in all directions.

-Screw in the middle. Great design, but most do it from aluminum-plate at the back and plate at the front with channel in the middle. While i like it i did not choose it due to expensive material, my inability to process it at home precisely-cutting, drilling tapping...etc., Beautiful but quite costly. Of course it could be done from steel plate, but then the combined weight. Or ribs here and there at the back, but still without a front plate will not be strong enough to my liking. Plus the plates will protect the ball screw.

-The typical commercial router, rails on the front plate, screw inside, raised gantry. I could not help but post the picture of the Techno, which is a typical example
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If into woodworking and sheet material ok. But not a multitask one. Man, how i hate that design :toot:. The z could go left right further, so the table could be not so wide, but then the gantry raisers should be strong enough, then the Z travel is very small, so if we want travel of 200mm then the weight, then the motors...etc.

Other:
There are other designs but as they are very purpose specific i would not recommend them.
You could take a look also of my design of gantry on the second machine i am starting to build.I hope will be successful. Its meant for strength and precision for the long gantry, also an ease of implementing, especially epoxy leveling the rails . Just as an idea that you could further develop if you like it http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/router-build-logs/6619-quite-unusual-one-4.html#post52573, though more soldering, various sizes profile, heavier.


At the end the design is choosing between the various trade offs for the purpose of what will suite you most.

ba99297
14-01-2014, 02:48 PM
Hi guys
Quite a long time since my last post
I am thinking about an arrangement for the gantry of my machine
Before i go on with the plans i want your advice about the basic idea
Three 120X60X3mm beams will be welder making a C shape
In front of this "C shape" a 15mm aluminium plate ( blue color) will be bolted in order to bolt on this plate the profiled rails
The plans are not accurate, so any imperfections will be corrected. I just want your opinion in order to see if this arrangement is good or bad an then go on with the way i will attach the gantry on the carriages.
The gantry will be pulled by two Yascawa servos 400 watt and a 2010 ballscrew
Thanks for you time

Vagelis
1127411275112761127711278

EddyCurrent
14-01-2014, 04:30 PM
I like the look of that but it looks weak where it joins the bottom plates. All that weight is hinged off the bottom face of the lower beam. I feel it needs something like this added each end;

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ba99297
14-01-2014, 06:54 PM
Eddycurrent thanks for your answer
As i said the plans are not accurate and mostly i want an opinion about the 120X60 box tubes arrangement
If it is ok i will go on with the triangulation support that will attach the C shape gantry to the carriages
To be honest i was thinking something like what you design but a little bit more complex. As what i have in mind will be influenced from the gantry shape, that is why i didn’t design the left and right parts of the gantry
Thank again
Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
14-01-2014, 07:05 PM
Looks Nice!

It would be even better if you could design it so that the motor is inside the gantry. may be with some door plate that bolts to the sides. I assume you will use any way belt from the motor to the screw, not drive it directly?

ba99297
16-01-2014, 12:06 PM
Silyavski thank for your idea but thiw is not possible as the motor wont fit in the gantry.
I am working now with the plans so i can show to the forum 2-3 different ways to attach the gantry to the carriages.
Thanks for your time

Vagelis

ba99297
18-01-2014, 01:15 AM
Hi guys here is some progress
1130011301113021130311304
My basic question if this arrangement is suitable for such a machine
The green colour is 1,5 cm aluminium and all the others steel.
The rectangular tube is 120X60
At the beginning i was planning to use 3 120X60 rectangular box tubes in order to make a C shape gantry but finally i change the plans
I will also like to hear your opinion about the way i attached vertical pieces of the side parts of the gantry to the horizontal parts
Finally i would like to know if it is better to bolt or to weld the rectangular tubes to the sides of the gantry

Thanks for your time

Vagelis

JAZZCNC
18-01-2014, 10:58 AM
Hi Vagelis,


My basic question if this arrangement is suitable for such a machine

This design will be fine I've use a very similair design on machines but with all aluminium construction.


I will also like to hear your opinion about the way i attached vertical pieces of the side parts of the gantry to the horizontal parts.
Finally i would like to know if it is better to bolt or to weld the rectangular tubes to the sides of the gantry

The arrangement of vertical and horizontal looks ok but with the lower Horizontal base plate you may want to think about how your going to attach to the X axis ballscrews.? It may be better to have the lower plate extend out the side and attach screws to it's under side.?

Regards welding or bolting then NO I wouldnt weld it has you'll have very little room for adjustment. I've said it many times but I'll repeat because it's so important to a Good DIY machine.!!. . . . .ADJUSTMENT ADJUSTMENT ADJUSTMENT . . . . Welding solid is OK for some areas like the frame but for a Gantry then I'd only weld the minimum if at all.!

Also realise because your planning to use Steel for the Gantry sides and base plate it will twist and warp while welding so you'll need to machine the lower face of the Base plate which sits on the Linear bearings. For this reason I wouldn't Use Steel in this area and have Aluminium gantry sides/base plates and bolt together. Still use Steel for the cross beams just bolt it all together.

I would also have 2x brace supports between top & bottom cross beams across the width at the rear. This will help reduce resonance.

ba99297
18-01-2014, 06:47 PM
Dean how thich aluminium plate do you suggest?
Is 20mm ok or i could go on with 15mm
Firstly i was planning to have all the gantry welded BUT the front plate ( green color at the above photos ) would be 15mm aluminium true leveled.
Also ( as the y axis rails would be at the same plane) i would use two plates to attach the gantry to the carriages . They would be connected each other with bolts ( one bolted on the carriages and the other welded one on the gantrys sides ) so i could adjust the vertical position of the spindle. I will make a plan and i will come back

ba99297
02-02-2014, 12:28 AM
Some progress so far
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11471


11472

11473

11474




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11476


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11478

11479

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11481

11482

11483

11484
The red colour (at the gantry ) is aluminium plate 20mm bolted together
The green gantry plates are also 20mm aluminium plates that will be bolted with the carriages. Under that green plates will be attached the ballscrews
Distance between y axis profiled rails ( centre of rails ) 200mm
Tell me first your comments and i will then ask my questions
Thank for your time

Vagelis

ba99297
02-02-2014, 09:07 PM
No one out there for any advice?

EddyCurrent
02-02-2014, 09:19 PM
It definitely looks strong and at the same time good looking. The green plates, they are wider at the back so are you putting the ball nut near the back ? maybe it would be better to have it central or in line with the spindle collet ?

ba99297
02-02-2014, 09:39 PM
To be honset i think the green plates are a little bit wrong
I must correct the design. I am thinking of make the green plates square and connect the ball nut on the external red aluminium plate that will be designed longer. I dont know if i am understood, so i will design and come back later. Eddycurrent thanks for your answer.

EddyCurrent
02-02-2014, 09:42 PM
Yes I see what you mean, the red plate must come below the level of the rails to both protect the ball screw and also to allow mounting of the ball screw to the outside of the top beam.
But will there be enough room between the extended red plate and the beam to fit the ball screw in. ?

ba99297
02-02-2014, 09:55 PM
If you see photo number 13 you will see how much space there is. This space isnt enough to match the ball screw between the plate and the 80X80 box beam. So i could even make the gantry a little bit wider or match the ballscrew at the outer side of the red aluminium plate. My first thougth was to put the X axis ballscrews at the same vertical plane as the profiled rails of x axis. In that case the x axis ballscews would cross the back plate of the aluminium construction that i use to attach the steal beams with the profiled rails. I dont know if this is a good idea as in this case i will have the x and y axi ballscrews been corsed very close each other.

njhussey
02-02-2014, 11:50 PM
I'd extend the outside gantry plate below the X axis carriages and have the ballnut housing attach to this. You might need to put spacers on the frame for the BK/BF ball screw ends but it shouldn't matter. I've done just this with my design. which you and see here...http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/gantry-router-build-logs/2148-comments-sought-new-build-cnc-router-rc-gliders-planes-12.html that way you can mount the x axis carriages on the bottom 20mm ali plate and not have to bother with the green plates?

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ba99297
04-02-2014, 11:15 PM
Some small changes
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11509

11510
The green plate(20mm aluminium plate ) will be bolted on the carriages and then i will bolt the green plate with the red plate (20mm aluminium plate)
Could anybody told me what are the critical spots that i must have freedom to adjust. I think is obvious that the spindle should be vertical with the cutting surface. Is this possible to achieved by putting shims between the red and the green aluminium plate.

JAZZCNC
04-02-2014, 11:45 PM
Vagelis can you show an exploded view or See thru view so that can see how Steel fastens etc. This seems a very complex arrangment of plates that may not be required or adding a lot to overall strength.? The design is correct regards gantry sides Etc just looks more complicated than it needs to be.

I'm also curious to how your arranging the ballscrew/motors because it looks like the steel supports across gantry could clash with ballnut.?

If you prefer Email me Model.

ba99297
07-02-2014, 11:18 PM
Dean the steel supports are from 120X60 steel tube so they leave 60mm space for the ballnut. I dont know if this is enough but even if it isnot i could make the steel supports from 40X80 tube so 80mm would be the space for the ballnut. Regards how steel fastens i explain. The 120X60 beams will be fist welded like that

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Then the red assembly (made from 20mm aluminium) will be bolted with the tubes like that
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I dont know if the following picture will help you
11540

Anyway i have sent you the model did you get it

Thank for your time

EddyCurrent
08-02-2014, 12:16 AM
Gantry looking a bit similar to this; but stronger, maybe there's something here for ideas ?
http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/gantry-router-build-logs/6457-sturdy-fast-all-steel-cnc-my-first-build-4.html#post49880

Boyan Silyavski
10-02-2014, 01:24 AM
I believe that this mixing things will not greatly benefit you.

The real things that should be considered are: precision, strength/bend twist/, weight , ball screw length, price.

What i mean is the aluminum will raise the price, lead to lower precision and a lot of hassle in combination with the steel profiles, and possibly raise even the weight. What you will gain is beauty.

I dont know what precision you aim for, but any imprecision in the aluminum will transfer to loss of precision and need to adjust.

So from my limited understanding, either use steel and epoxy or use precisely machined aluminum for all the gantry, like Dean makes his ones.

Aluminum will not magically solve rails alignment as it seems you believe, unless you buy specially intended /$$$/ and precisely machined /$$$ or ability to do it/ .

Combining it with steel will lead to shimming, what you on the first place seem to try to avoid.

If you decide on the steel only machine, i can even help you and arrange all parts laser cut in Bulgaria for cheap, so you can drive 200km and get them, assuming you live in Greece and not very far away. I mean all parts on the machine, like i did from 10mm steel sheet. That can give you immense freedom with the design and extreme ease of assembly. Not to speak of avoiding hours and hours drilling precise holes.

Just for some ideas, you could take a look at my second build. i believe the design of my big machine gantry is even better, avoiding the laser cut parts and aluminum parts as much as possible. And frankly i have not seen a DIY gantry with less overhang. See post 34 (http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/gantry-router-build-logs/6619-quite-unusual-one-4.html#post52445). You can ignore the extreme Z as there will be 12kg spindle or pneumatic hammer, but take a look how the motor fits, how the gantry sides are avoided to be expensive and heavy. How easy will be to epoxy level the gantry rails as they are in one plane but at the same time there is no overhang at all.

ba99297
10-02-2014, 11:13 PM
Syliavski thanks for your reply
I am a little bit confused about what materials is should choose for my gantry. Firstly I was planning to make a steel gantry. 120X60 tubes for the gantry welded together lke this
11561


Then the sides would be 10mm steel laser cutted.

11562
I would even put the green aluminium plate at the front of the gantry, or i would epoxy level the tubes surface so that the rail would be on the same plane.
After that came Dean who adviced me not to have a fully welded gantry so i would be able to adjust. In fact at the above plans i was planning to bolt the sides with the 120X60 beams. Also i was planning to epoxy level tha base plates of the gantry or use shims in order to adjust.
After Deans comments i come up with these plan

1156311564
with the grey color represent steel and the red color aluminium.
I am really confused about what is better or not. I am starting to make a plan and as i have no experience about the difficulties that i will come up with, i dont know if i am right or if am wrong
So far thanks everybody for your help.

Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
10-02-2014, 11:31 PM
Hi,
my intent was not to confuse you, but to point you that aluminum plates bolted to the steel profile is in no way different than aligning rails to steel gantry. Also that you need to machine it or find somebody to machine it precisely.

You should choose what ever method is easier for you to make or order.

ba99297
10-02-2014, 11:41 PM
Silyavski i didnt mean that you confuse me ,i just cant decide what is better for the kind of macine i am trying to construct. Steel looks for me a better choice as aluminium will raise the cost

ba99297
11-02-2014, 08:01 PM
One basic question
If i choose aluminium as the basic material of the gantry, could i have 6-10mm holes laser cutted at a 20mm aluminium plate. They told me that there is a "law" that says that you cant laser cut holes smaller than the thickness of the material. Is that true ? That means if i have a 10mm thickness steel i will have 10mm laser cutted holes, accordingling about aluminium.
Thanks

Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
12-02-2014, 05:55 PM
One basic question
If i choose aluminium as the basic material of the gantry, could i have 6-10mm holes laser cutted at a 20mm aluminium plate. They told me that there is a "law" that says that you cant laser cut holes smaller than the thickness of the material. Is that true ? That means if i have a 10mm thickness steel i will have 10mm laser cutted holes, accordingling about aluminium.
Thanks

Vagelis

If the laser cut service told you - its so. In 10mm steel there is no problem to cut 5mm holes. But anyway, they could mark you the holes with the laser, so later you drill them. Normally the laser cut service would have a mill also, so they could drill you the holes, once marked.

ba99297
12-02-2014, 10:41 PM
So far i understood that i should go even with all steel or all aluminium gantry, as combination of these materials will be a little tricky.
I will ask one more time and if somebody reading the thread i will be glad to hear his opinion. In what directions i must have the ability to adjust
FOr example if i go for all steel gantry, all parts welded and epoxy leveled for y axis rails, also epoxy leveled for the plates that will be bolted on the carriages what are the spots that should not be welded but bolted in order to have the ability to adjust?

ba99297
27-03-2014, 05:28 PM
After over a month of inactivity i come back. Just one question before upload some resent photos.
For 2010 ballscrew should i use BF/Bk 15 or BF/BK 17 ?

Thanks

JAZZCNC
27-03-2014, 06:04 PM
For 2010 ballscrew should i use BF/Bk 15 or BF/BK 17 ?

BK15 Vagelis.

ba99297
30-03-2014, 10:48 PM
Hello everybody. I came back to show my little progress.
I want to remind everyone that we are talking about a cnc router with

X 1800mm
Y 1000mm
Z:300mm

It will be moved with 4 ( 2 x axis, 1 Y axis, 1 Z axis ) 400 watt yaskawa servo sigma II.
Steel is the basic material for the construction ( except z axis that I didn’t design yet )
As the table has been discussed many times, I have nothing to say. I just upload two photos . Basic beam is 80X80X4 mm.

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The gantry will be maid from two 120X60 X ( 3mm or 4mm thick steel ). At the end of the gantry frame, 8mm and 10mm steel plates will be welded in order to reinforce the gantry attachment to the side braces that will be bolted on the carriages.
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If it will be needed ( I try to avoid it ) the front face and the side (left-right ) faces will be perfectly milled to be vertical each other.

Here I want your opinion about the way I laser cut the steel plate and the way I try to keep everything square in order to avoid (if possible) machining cost. If you notice the plates has been cut in such a way ( like a puzzle ) that it is difficult to distort when I will weld them ( I am planning to tig weld the parts in order to reduce heat distortion). Do you think this trick ( “ puzzle cut “ ) will work ?

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The same way I made the side braces here are some photos.

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If you notice the side braces have straight slots in order to fine tune the gantry so I will be parallel to the cutting surface.

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At the following photo you can see two holes where I will bolt screws that will help me to adjust gantry height.

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Also the straight slots ( on the vertical piece of the side braces ) will allow small ( up-down ) movements. Side braces and gantry frame will be bolted together.

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As for the ball screw mounts, they are also adjustable.
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I want your comments if you wish , an I remind you my basic questions
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1. Is the gantry overbuild?
2. Is 10mm steel ( for gantry side braces, front face, and side reinforcing )too much for such a construction or should I go with 8mm 7mm or 6mm. I am asking because if we follow the 1:3 relation between steel and aluminum, 10mm steel equals to 30mm aluminum )
3. Will the puzzle cut technique work?

As for the weight the gantry without the motor that will move y axis and without the ballscrew and of course Z axis, weights nearly 41 kgr ( with 10mm thick steel for the side braces and 8mm steel for the reinforce angles and 4mm 120X60 rectangular beam). If I reduce steel thickness and remove steel from some no critical spots, it is obvious that 41 will be easily reduced to 35 or less.


Thanks for your time

Vagelis

Ps: I will use 1:2 gearing but at the above plans i use 100mm 60 tooth diameter for the ballscrew pulley ( that will give me 1:3 gearing, having in mind that the motor pulley is nearly 3,6mm 20 tooth) in order not to have dimension issues if in the future i want to go with 1:3 gearing.

Jonathan
30-03-2014, 11:35 PM
Forget all the cutouts on the gantry which have been included to reduce its mass. The servos you have a plenty powerful enough to move achieve the required dynamic performance for a gantry several times heavier than what you have designed. If you continue with your plan to use 100mm diameter pulleys then the inertia of just one of those pulleys will be more than the equivalent inertia of all three axes! Decide on the rapid feedrate you want, work out what drive ratio is required, select pulleys, then check that the servo motors are capable of driving it with the required acceleration. It is very simple to calculate, so don't compromise the performance of the system by using very large pulleys when they're almost certainly not required. If you're not sure how to work it out then let me know and I'll show you.

In answer to your direct questions:


Depends what you want to do with it, but you seem to be in the right ball park.
The consequences of using a lower thickness and having to replace it are far worse than the small increase in cost to use 10mm, so unless you're prepared to calculate it just stick with the thickest you're happy to pay for (presumably 10mm).
It looks a bit risky to me - the tolerances on the parts would have to be very good for them to fit together properly.

ba99297
31-03-2014, 12:05 AM
Jonathan thanks for your responce.
As for the pulleys i am planning to use the following setup

X axis: 2 X 2010 ballscrews 1500mm long with 2:1 gear
Yaxis: 1 x 2010 ballscrews 1000mm long with 2:1 gear
Z axis: 1 x 2005 ballscrews 350mm long with 2:1 gear

As for the speed calculations i have made this thread

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/gantry-router-build-logs/6496-new-build-stell-frame-cnc-1500x1000-ball-screw-gearing-calculations.html

So with 2010 ballscrew and 2:1 gear ratio

i will have

motor gear ratio 1
ballscrew gear ratio 2
ballscrew length 1500
ballscrew diameter 20
ballscrew pitch 10
ballscrew rpm 1500
ballscrew rpm threshold ~1200
rapids mm 15000


Vagelis

Jonathan
31-03-2014, 02:06 AM
Looks like your motors are rated for 400W @ 3000rpm, so 1.27Nm. If you calculate for 15T pulleys on the motors and 30T on the ballscrews using the following specifications:

Mass of axis in kg: [x y z]=[25 25 20] (X-axis mass halved as two motors)
Cutting force in N: [x y z]=[50 50 250]
Acceleration in m/s^2: [x y z]=[2 2 2] (changing this makes a big difference)
Ballscrews: [x y z]= RM2010
Ballscrew length in m: [x y z]=[1.5 1 0.35]

Yields the following:

Feedrate in m/min: [x y z]=[15.0 15.0 7.50]
Inertia in g-m^2: [x y z]=[0.12 0.11 0.07]
Torque in Nm: [x y z]=[0.38 0.34 0.29] (X torque 0.80Nm if gantry mass=0)
Inertia ratios: [x y z]=[3.65 3.18 2.00]

If you instead used 20:60T pulleys on all axes:

Feedrate in m/min: [x y z]=[10.0 10.0 5.00]
Inertia in g-m^2: [x y z]=[0.24 0.23 0.22]
Torque in Nm: [x y z]=[1.03 1.00 0.97]
Inertia ratios: [x y z]=[7.24 7.03 6.50]

So as you can see, even though at a glance you may think changing the ratio would put less load on the motors, you'd actually more than double the torque requirement by using such large pulleys and at the same time get a lower feedrate. This is because most of the torque goes into accelerating the pulleys and ballscrews, so just to illustrate the point about the gantry mass, here's what happens if you use 15:30T and increase the mass of the gantry to something silly like 1000kg:

Mass of axis in kg: [x y z]=[500 250 250] (X-axis mass halved as two motors)

Feedrate in m/min: [x y z]=[15.0 15.0 7.50]
Inertia in g-m^2: [x y z]=[0.42 0.22 0.09]
Torque in Nm: [x y z]=[1.23 0.65 0.37]
Inertia ratios: [x y z]=[12.73 6.53 2.86]


etc...

In other words, your motors are a jot bigger than necessary!

[References:
http://www.nskamericas.com/cps/rde/xbcr/mx_es/Friction_Torque_and_Drive_Torque.pdf
ttp://www.hiwin.com/pdf/bs/ballscrews.pdf] (http://www.hiwin.com/pdf/bs/ballscrews.pdf])

EddyCurrent
31-03-2014, 11:38 PM
What Jonathan says, but if you are laser cutting the parts then other than cost you could still go for the cutouts but it sounds like it would be more for the looks than any practical reason.
I could not see how the belts would be tensioned from the motor to the pulley. I used 10mm steel for brackets and it's surprising how springy it is, I don't think you should used anything thinner.

ba99297
01-04-2014, 09:51 AM
Here it is Eddy. If you can see, i have straight slot that will allow the motor movement, in order to tension the belt


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Boyan Silyavski
01-04-2014, 12:12 PM
Forget all the cutouts on the gantry which have been included to reduce its mass. The servos you have a plenty powerful enough to move achieve the required dynamic performance for a gantry several times heavier than what you have designed. If you continue with your plan to use 100mm diameter pulleys then the inertia of just one of those pulleys will be more than the equivalent inertia of all three axes! Decide on the rapid feedrate you want, work out what drive ratio is required, select pulleys, then check that the servo motors are capable of driving it with the required acceleration. It is very simple to calculate, so don't compromise the performance of the system by using very large pulleys when they're almost certainly not required. If you're not sure how to work it out then let me know and I'll show you.

In answer to your direct questions:


Depends what you want to do with it, but you seem to be in the right ball park.
The consequences of using a lower thickness and having to replace it are far worse than the small increase in cost to use 10mm, so unless you're prepared to calculate it just stick with the thickest you're happy to pay for (presumably 10mm).
It looks a bit risky to me - the tolerances on the parts would have to be very good for them to fit together properly.



I second that. The plates will distort not matter what you do. Use 10mm simple solid plates. Dont be afraid for the weight. When everything aligned and smooth, the gantry will slide with astonishing to you ease.

How you came up with such big pulleys? Another thing to point you is to make sure the pulleys are from Aluminum, cause last time i ordered pulleys from belting online assuming they were aluminum they send me steel pulleys. So ask and make sure before buying.

EddyCurrent
01-04-2014, 05:59 PM
Dont be afraid for the weight. When everything aligned and smooth, the gantry will slide with astonishing to you ease.

This is correct, when I first assembled my gantry it was easier to slide it with me sitting on top of it.


How you came up with such big pulleys? Another thing to point you is to make sure the pulleys are from Aluminum, cause last time i ordered pulleys from belting online assuming they were aluminum they send me steel pulleys. So ask and make sure before buying.

Yes they sent me steel pulleys but that's what I wanted.

ba99297
01-04-2014, 07:46 PM
As for the pulleys i have to say that my initial planning was to use 2:1 gearing but if i saw that 3:1 would be better, i want to have the room for the new pulley. So i use such big pulley in my plans just to be sure that future changes to the gear ratio will not need gantry rebuild. Other than the pulleys do you see something wrong or something that could be correted

Thank

Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
01-04-2014, 08:31 PM
Other than the pulleys do you see something wrong or something that could be corrected

Thank

Vagelis

Can you show pictures of the back of the gantry?

EddyCurrent
01-04-2014, 10:13 PM
As for the pulleys i have to say that my initial planning was to use 2:1 gearing but if i saw that 3:1 would be better, i want to have the room for the new pulley. So i use such big pulley in my plans just to be sure that future changes to the gear ratio will not need gantry rebuild. Other than the pulleys do you see something wrong or something that could be correted

Maybe if you had enough adjustment on the motor bracket, it would allow you to use the same belt for all size pulleys. I tried to keep all belts the same size so no need to keep lots of spares, I ended up with two sizes.

ba99297
01-04-2014, 11:59 PM
Silyavski at the previews page ia have some photos. Here i upload some new

11981119821198311984

Eddy as i am not an expert i have the opinion that it is better to keep the belt as short as possible.

EddyCurrent
02-04-2014, 09:29 AM
You could mount the X motors inside the frame like I did, it stops the machine being wider than it needs to be and leaves room for the cable chain.

ba99297
03-04-2014, 12:56 PM
Thanks so far for your opinion and for your advices. I have one main question.
You told me not be afraid of the gantry weight. Not to try to lighten the steel pieces as weight is not such a big problem. I want to ask then why many people try to build the gantries with aluminum that it is lighter than steel and aslo more expensive. Why many people try to make their gantries as light as possible without of course having compromises with stiffness. Finally why nearly every Z axis is made from alluminum and not ftrom steel. In my project i think that with or without the offcuts, the difference in weight will be nearly 20 kgr. If that mass isnt important and have small impact to the performance of the machine, then i have no reason to laser cut the parts the way i show before as the cost for lasercutting is not small.

Thanks again

Vagelis

Ger21
03-04-2014, 05:52 PM
I want to ask then why many people try to build the gantries with aluminum that it is lighter than steel and also more expensive.
Because aluminum is much easier to work with for most people.


Why many people try to make their gantries as light as possible without of course having compromises with stiffness.

Because they don't know any better.


Finally why nearly every Z axis is made from aluminum and not from steel.

Again, aluminum is usually much easier to work with. You can cut it with woodworking tools, or even very lightweight cnc routers if you take your time. Steel requires different tools, or you need to pay someone to do the work.

The Z axis is one place where lighter weight is helpful. But I think ease of fabrication is still the main reason aluminum is used.

EddyCurrent
03-04-2014, 09:16 PM
I have to admit I did not know the answer to Vagelis' questions but now Gerry has replied I agree with what he says but don't know if that's the full story. I found the Hiwin blocks seemed to move easier with more weight applied so maybe mass and preload of the bearings work together ?

Ger21
03-04-2014, 11:47 PM
I found the Hiwin blocks seemed to move easier with more weight applied so maybe mass and preload of the bearings work together ?

When bearings have a high preload, they will have a "stiction" force that needs to be overcome before they move. Adding weight makes this "stiction" appear less. Unless you have high preload bearings on a lightweight machine, this issue is more "perceived" than actual.

While it's certainly possible to build a gantry that's too heavy, it's rather unlikely. Especially with a servo powered machine. If you keep the gantry weight under 125-150Kg, you should be fine.

ba99297
07-04-2014, 12:24 PM
After so many months of studding the cnc world, i finally realize that that the myth about lightweight gantries ( that i had in mind ) bites the dust. I am talking about my machine and not for every cnc. Thanks to Deans advices and thanks to Jonathan calculator, i see that 20-30 and even more kgr at the gantry weight doesn’t affect torque needs of the motors. I understood that the most torque will be needed to move pulleys and ballscrew than the gantry that slides on the carriages. Also Syliavsky Eddy, and Ger21 mention that. Thank you every one. After that i will make some changes to Y axis and then go on with the Z axis. So far my gantry weights about 65-70 kgr( without the motors ballscrews of y axis and without the Z axis that need to be designed.
A last photo of the gantry
12010


Vagelis

JAZZCNC
07-04-2014, 09:20 PM
Hi Vagelis,

Sorry I've not been replying to your emails or thread but I've been very busy. I've just today managed to open the file you sent me so have a better idea and can see it's mostly what you posted here.

As I told you before and now others have also confirmed for you that Gantry weight is not such a big issue with Servo's so won't go further on about this.! . . What I want to point out thou is that your complicted Jigsaw puzzle won't really stop the steel from warping while welding.
10mm plate needs serious heat to weld even with Tig and you will experience some warping and for this reason I suggest you design the gantry so it can be welded up completely then important surfaces machined after it as stablised.
Because of your welded and fixed ridged gantry design then you have less areas of adjustment so it becomes important surfaces are machined true and parallel.

I think I've said this before but really for cutting wood then this design is massive overkill unless your planning on attaching a high powered spindle cutting deep and fast 12hrs a day.!
I know your thinking to cut Aluminium with the machine but even then the gantry will be strong enough for light/medium duty work. If you want deep depth's of cut and high quality finish then the size of the machine and Gantry router design will be more the limiting factor not just the Gantry design or strength.

End of the Day you CANNOT have the perfect all round machine at this size so My advise Again is to build it to be the very best it can be for the Purpose you intend to use it for most.! . . . . . . I would rather have a machine that is excellent at one thing than just average at anything and you will only have one or the other.!!

ba99297
07-04-2014, 11:46 PM
Dean you are right. I am trying to make an all purpuse machine. In my country they said "you can not carry two watermelons under one armpit". That is what i am trying to do BUT as i am going to spend money for a machine, i am trying to achieve the best value for money project. Every day because of asking i find out things that help me avoiding mistakes. I will go on with z axis and come back. If anybody see something that should be mentioned, I will be glad to hear it. Meanwhile if you have any supplier for belts and pulleys tell me. The main problem with me ( among others ) is that I have no lathe or mill for some main machining, so I am trying to avoid that cost by sketching laser cut steel puzzles. As I see it is difficult to avoid machining. Next week I will take my plans and make a research about milling cost. Thank you so far for your help


Vagelis

ba99297
01-05-2014, 12:22 AM
Here is some progress.
Ganty side plates 10mm steel. Doyou think i need a second side plate each side?
Gantry body 210mm height, made from two tubes 120X60X4 ( up down) and 1 tube 80X80X4 (middle) welded together
All gantry will be welded and then apply epoxy in order to have bottom side carriages in the same level
Z axis from 20mm aluminium and some parts from 10mm steel.
Y axis upside carriages at 400mm distance
Y axis bottom side carriages at 250mm distance
Z axis travel 200mm
Spindle plate 200mm wide

On Friday i will confirm my order to Chai for ballscrews dimensions leave 50mm for pulley attach and easy alignment
I will be glad to hear any advice or comment
Thank you for your time

12284122851228612287122881228912289122901229112292 1229312294122951229612297

Clive S
01-05-2014, 08:48 AM
Have you thought how you will access the mounting bolts on the Z rail blocks (4.jpg) it looks like the Y rails blocks will restrict them. On another point it seems like you are use angle iron for the rail blocks (Y) are you sure that they will be at true right angles and that the inside edge is flat and parallel to the outside edge. ..Clive

EddyCurrent
01-05-2014, 10:13 AM
On another point it seems like you are use angle iron for the rail blocks (Y) are you sure that they will be at true right angles and that the inside edge is flat and parallel to the outside edge. ..Clive

Aluminium angle is a lot more accurate than steel so maybe you could use a thicker section aluminium angle instead.
Do you need the full Z travel ? if not I would move the Z Hiwin blocks further apart.
Also now is the time to work out where your cable drag chain (energy chain) will sit, you'll need three lengths of the stuff and will need to know the lengths, bend radius, internal dimensions.

Looks like it's coming together nicely.

ba99297
02-05-2014, 01:10 PM
Have you thought how you will access the mounting bolts on the Z rail blocks (4.jpg) it looks like the Y rails blocks will restrict them. On another point it seems like you are use angle iron for the rail blocks (Y) are you sure that they will be at true right angles and that the inside edge is flat and parallel to the outside edge. ..Clive
Yes this will be an issue according to these plans but the above plans are only for giving a general idea about the machine. Specific issues ( as the one that you have mentioned ) i think will be solved with small conversions. As for the iron angles the most possible scenario is to have them perfectly milled or use aluminium angles that are more accurate.


Aluminium angle is a lot more accurate than steel so maybe you could use a thicker section aluminium angle instead.
Do you need the full Z travel ? if not I would move the Z Hiwin blocks further apart.
Also now is the time to work out where your cable drag chain (energy chain) will sit, you'll need three lengths of the stuff and will need to know the lengths, bend radius, internal dimensions.

Looks like it's coming together nicely.


According the plans z axis rails are 400mm the ballscrew (full length ) 501mm carriages distance (outer side 200mm) . That will give z axis a full travel of 200mm. May be ( if that will make the construction better) i will put the carriages at 250mm distance and reduce the full travel to 150mm.

Question 1
The above conversion worth the effort ?


Question 2
Also I would like to say that I choose to put the Y axis ballscrew at the front of the gantry in order to have the ballscrew as close as possible to Z axis and at the same time having the ballscrew exposed to the off cuts of the spindle.
Is that correct ?

Question 3
Do you think I will need a second side plate at both edges?


Thanks for your time

EddyCurrent
02-05-2014, 02:30 PM
Question 1
The above conversion worth the effort ?

Maybe you could put some figures in the stiffness calculator and find out, http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/linear-rotary-motion/2214-cnc-machine-stiffness-calculator.html#post15791




Question 2
Also I would like to say that I choose to put the Y axis ballscrew at the front of the gantry in order to have the ballscrew as close as possible to Z axis and at the same time having the ballscrew exposed to the off cuts of the spindle.
Is that correct ?

My machine has the ball screw at the back and so far I have noticed no problems.
Some people put a plate over the front with a slot for the ball nut bracket, you could fit these to the slot, Toolstation > Ironmongery > Draught Excluders > Heavy Duty Brush Strip (http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Ironmongery/Draught%20Excluders/Heavy%20Duty%20Brush%20Strip/d170/sd2802/p68841)
or keep it like it is and use two of these to keep swarf out Machine Bellows - Arc Euro Trade (http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/Machine-Bellows#Concertina-Bellows-300mm-x-200mm---Dip-Moulded-Rubber-084-030-00300)


Question 3
Do you think I will need a second side plate at both edges?

I would hope it is strong enough as you have it now with one plate but again maybe you could try putting it into the stiffness calculator.

Jonathan
02-05-2014, 03:21 PM
Roughly in order of priority...(i.e. in order of how much I expect these changes will impact the overall stiffness of the machine:



The thin plates the linear bearings are mounted on are definitely weak points.
Keep the Y-ballscrew where it is - it's well positioned. Moving the ballscrew to prevent exposure to swarf is totally the wrong priority - just guard it if necessary.
The spacing of the bearings on the Z-axis is a bit low - bear in mind the deflection of the linear guide system is proportional to that bearing spacing squared, so every little helps.
Try to compact the Z-axis to reduce overhang - by making cutouts in the plates you should be able to avoid putting the rails on spacer strips.
The Z-ballscrew could be made shorter if you want, but it doesn't really matter.


You only need the adjustment slots for mounting the X-axis linear bearings to the gantry at one side - on the other side you could use normal holes and mill a reference edge for the bearings to rest against. That will help slightly with getting things square. It's also a good tactic for the other axes - particularly Z in your design.

ba99297
03-05-2014, 12:11 AM
Roughly in order of priority...(i.e. in order of how much I expect these changes will impact the overall stiffness of the machine:



The thin plates the linear bearings are mounted on are definitely weak points.



Jonathan when you say "The thin plates the linear bearings are mounted on " you mean the carriages of X axis of Y axis or both X and Y axis?
The "thin plates" of X axis supposed to be 10mm iron. What thickness is suitable ?


The spacing of the bearings on the Z-axis is a bit low - bear in mind the deflection of the linear guide system is proportional to that bearing spacing squared, so every little helps.

I suppose you mean to increase the distance between the 2 lower and the two upper carriages and that will reduce the Z axis travel

Should i need a second side plate?


Thanks
Vagelis

ba99297
08-05-2014, 12:24 AM
After Deans sujestion i put the y axis rails at the front
12341123421234312344123451234612347123481234912350
The clearance from the table to the spindle collet is 115mm

Thanks for your time

Jonathan
08-05-2014, 12:28 AM
We've established that the weight of the gantry is not something to be concerned about, so no need for those cutouts between the Y-axis bearings. It'll be stronger if you leave it as a rectangular plate.

ba99297
08-05-2014, 12:38 AM
Jonathan i agree with you but i must leave at least one small cutout in order to be able to work with the ball screw and also in order to pass the ballnut . How thick plate(steel) plate should i use? At he above plans the plate is 10mm. Also i want to say that i put the ballscrew near the bottom of the gantry and not at the middle, in order to have the ballnut as close to the collet as possible. Is that correct?

ba99297
29-06-2014, 06:42 PM
Hi guys.
I come back with some final questions before I go on with my machine.
Next week the hiwin profiled rails and carriages will arrive so I will have in my hands all the pieces so I can laser cut the steel and aluminum plates, and the box section tubes.
First I want to say that the machine frame will be made from 80X80X4 steel tubes.
Here is a general overview of the machine

126721267312674




I I wont use a movable cutting surface as I first had in mind. The cutting surface and the clamping system will look like this.

12675

On the 80X80X4 steel tubes I will weld 80X40X3 vertical pieces and between them 40X40 tslot aluminum profile. On the 80X40X3 steel tube, 19mm plywood will be bolted. If there is any comment I will be glad to hear it.


Now regards the gantry it will be made from 2 80X80X4 tubes(in the middle ) and 2 120X60X4 tubes (up and down) welded together like this. At the back side of the gantry all the tubes wont be in the same plane. The 80X80 tubes will exceed 2cm to make space for the ball nut mount flange.

12676

The ganty will be welded and then bolted straight to the hiwin carriages ( after I apply epoxy at the bottom side of the gantry ).


And now I come with my questions.
The clearance (after Deans suggestion ) from the lower point of Z to the cutting surface is 180mm. The travel of Z is nearly 130mm. When z axis is at its lowest point the situation is this




12677


That means 6mm from spindle choke to the cutting surface.



When z axis is at its higher point the situation is this
12678

That means 136mm from spindle choke to the cutting surface.


Is that Ok?This is very critical for the machine construction as any mistake here will need frame reconstruction. Generally is there rule about what is the distance from the choke to the cutting surface when Z is at its lower point.?


Finally i want to ask about resonane. Is it better to use these red plates


12679




Or it is better to use a 80X80 tube to connect vertialy left upper side of the frame with the rights upper side of the frame

12683

Thanks for your time and i will be glad to hear any suggestion

Vagelis

GEOFFREY
29-06-2014, 10:42 PM
Hi, I don't think it is a good idea to weld the hiwin carriages if that is really what you mean .G.

ba99297
29-06-2014, 11:08 PM
Hi, I don't think it is a good idea to weld the hiwin carriages if that is really what you mean .G.



You are right. By mistake i wrote "weld". I meant bolted. Thanks for the correction. I have already correct the mistake

Boyan Silyavski
30-06-2014, 12:19 AM
Hi Vagelis,
I answered some of your questions in my build thread. here is what i think for the other ones.




I I wont use a movable cutting surface as I first had in mind. The cutting surface and the clamping system will look like this.

12675

On the 80X80X4 steel tubes I will weld 80X40X3 vertical pieces and between them 40X40 tslot aluminum profile. On the 80X40X3 steel tube, 19mm plywood will be bolted. If there is any comment I will be glad to hear it.



Your solution seems very nice, man i like it. May be will implement it in my next build. But the plywood thing i don't like. Will constantly need resurfacing if you make precision stuff.
better would be some scrap plastic sheets from doors or whatever found at the Junk yard. And on top-sacrificial layer of expanded PVC plastic sheet. Quite cheap.




Now regards the gantry it will be made from 2 80X80X4 tubes(in the middle ) and 2 120X60X4 tubes (up and down) welded together like this. At the back side of the gantry all the tubes wont be in the same plane. The 80X80 tubes will exceed 2cm to make space for the ball nut mount flange.

12676

The ganty will be welded and then bolted straight to the hiwin carriages ( after I apply epoxy at the bottom side of the gantry ).


And now I come with my questions.
The clearance (after Deans suggestion ) from the lower point of Z to the cutting surface is 180mm. The travel of Z is nearly 130mm. When z axis is at its lowest point the situation is this




12677


That means 6mm from spindle choke to the cutting surface.



When z axis is at its higher point the situation is this
12678

That means 136mm from spindle choke to the cutting surface.


Is that Ok?This is very critical for the machine construction as any mistake here will need frame reconstruction. Generally is there rule about what is the distance from the choke to the cutting surface when Z is at its lower point.?




What spindle /KW?/ will you be using at the end? That make protruding things longer or shorter.
Also have in mind usual 1/8 bit is 10-30mm long, usual 1/4 bit is 20-40mm long, the piece that is not in the collet i mean.







Finally i want to ask about resonane. Is it better to use these red plates


12679



This is best i believe:

12688



Or it is better to use a 80X80 tube to connect vertialy left upper side of the frame with the rights upper side of the frame

12683

Thanks for your time and i will be glad to hear any suggestion

Vagelis

What about doing longer than your table stuff?

ba99297
30-06-2014, 07:04 PM
What spindle /KW?/ will you be using at the end? That make protruding things longer or shorter.

I will use a 2,2 kw water cooled spindle



What about doing longer than your table stuff?

To be honest i dont undertand what you mean. Doing longer what? The braces that the rails will be attached?

Boyan Silyavski
30-06-2014, 08:45 PM
I will use a 2,2 kw water cooled spindle



To be honest i dont undertand what you mean. Doing longer what? The braces that the rails will be attached?

Longer than your bed material. The angle plate will allow material to pass. A soldered profile beam could not allow longer material.

Example: Say you are making a 3m long sign. You can do it working on one half, them moving the other half in the work area.

ba99297
17-07-2014, 01:01 AM
Hi guys
Guest what?Today i start building
Here is my progress


It is too late now that i am writing
I will continue tomorrow


Thanks for your help




Vagelis

I edit the post in order to explain the photos
First of all i didnt get 6m long pieces. In order to lower the cost i choose for the lower base of the machine to go with pieces that a friend had.
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12813&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1405549128 (http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12813&d=1405549128)
Too rust but not as bad as it looks


Then i had to cut them. Good for me my friend has a big steel saw so it was easy
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12815&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1405549473 (http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12815&d=1405549473)


Bak to my home i start to make my "floor welding bench" by laying two 3,3m long pieces of steel.


http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12816&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1405549549 (http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12816&d=1405549549)

I dry the rods in the oven
And i start by making the two big pieces 1,9m long as my machine has 1,9 length
The steel box section that i get from my friend pieces are 1,5 long so i had to weld them in order to make the 1,9m long that is the bigger piece.

http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12820&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1405550187 (http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12820&d=1405550187)

Then i level my floor welding bench and i start
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12822&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1405550839 (http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12822&d=1405550839)

First i make the rectangular piece off the table try to keep everything square. Then i add the foot an the diagonal pieces

http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12826&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1405551110 (http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12826&d=1405551110)

As i had read many times here in the forum i try to start with spot welding and not with big welding joints in order to avoid distortion. Firtsly that was easy but that make me think that the construction will have no distortion.
That was a mistake
After i finished the table ( lower part ) i realize while checking with an aluminium profile ( that supposed to be straight ) that the table has distortion issues
The following photo shows the aluminium profile when i check the diagonal from one corner to the oposite
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12827&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1405551334 (http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12827&d=1405551334)
It seems that the aluminium profile has 7mm distance from the table.
I use a jack in order to corect the bending but with no big success
12828

Good for me i reaslize that the problem is at the midle of the table, as the 4 corner( lets name them 1 2 3 4) are all at the same level. I use a digital level. First i messure τηε gadient between corners 1-2 and i zero the level. Then i continue by messuring the relative gradient f between corners 2-3, 3-4, and the diagonals 1-3, 2-4. All the messurement show 0.0 gradient. Also 0.0 relative gradient i messure between the front and the back beam. That i s good as i can correct any mistake at the next steps (weld the upper 1,9m long beams where the rails will rest) before i apply epoxy.
Now i am waiting for the 6m long beams to contruct the rest of the table

12829

The big problem till now is the weight of the table.
I can hardly turn it upside down
Tomorrow i will put a winch on the ceiling in order to deal with the weight that will be more than 300kgr ( without the gantry)

Thanks for your time

Vagelis

EddyCurrent
17-07-2014, 12:30 PM
Looking good. Once you have the frame finished the build moves along quite quickly provided you keep it going. Try to order your materials in advance because it felt like I spent a lot of time waiting for things to arrive in the post.

ba99297
22-07-2014, 11:04 AM
Hi everybody
This is the table so far ( the piece in the middle with be removed a little bit)

1286612867

This is how it will be
128681286912870


Two questions

#1 If you see the the top right photo you will see that i dont make a full welding pass just 3 spot ( edges and at the middle ) in order not to produce too much heat. Is that ok or should i weld all the way?

# 2 Do you think that more diagonal support will be needed and where?


Thank for your time

Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
22-07-2014, 11:34 AM
Two questions

#1 If you see the the top right photo you will see that i dont make a full welding pass just 3 spot ( edges and at the middle ) in order not to produce too much heat. Is that ok or should i weld all the way?

# 2 Do you think that more diagonal support will be needed and where?


Thank for your time

Vagelis

Hi Vagelis,

#1 I believe what is below the gantry and the gantry itself should be fully welded. Anyways later you will epoxy it for leveling. I spot welded only the Z which seemed strong enough/on my build i mean/

# 2 To me it seems there would be no need, especially with your monstrous table bed

njhussey
22-07-2014, 11:59 AM
#2 I think you could do with some triangulation horizontally to stop twisting but apart room that it's looking good!

ba99297
22-07-2014, 09:59 PM
silyavski thanks for your comments. I dont forget your help so far.
Thanks.
You have inspired me many time with your work and your suggestions


#2 I think you could do with some triangulation horizontally to stop twisting but apart room that it's looking good!

When you say horizontally you mean at the corners of the table?


Vagelis

njhussey
23-07-2014, 12:32 AM
When you say horizontally you mean at the corners of the table?


Vagelis

Yes that's it, on the inside corners...

njhussey
23-07-2014, 11:53 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/23/eby2yqe8.jpg

Like that...but hopefully with better welding...

EddyCurrent
23-07-2014, 11:43 PM
Or like this;

http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/6565-Ready-Steady-Eddy?p=52425#post52425

ba99297
24-07-2014, 04:11 PM
New photos of the progress
Yesterday i cut the steel and the aluminum pieces for the bed
12879

I install a winch at the roof , as the weight of the table is big ( nearly 140 kgr so far) to handle with my hands
I turn the table upside down to full weld all the joints
12880

I remove the middle piece as i change my plans. Another three pieces will be welded vertical to the sides of the machine

12881

I put temporary the steel and aluminum pieces of the bed to get an idea how the machine will looklike
Solid works is very good but the real world even better.

1288212883

I will use epoxy for the rails level but i try to be as precise as possible.
I chek the level of the table and the results are very good
I use two diagonal threads that they just touching each other ( that means the orners are at the same level)
Also i use a digital level that shows RELATIVE ANGLE between the diagonals 0.0o.

If you see the videoa the absolute angle is 2.0-2.1. That is not a real mesurement as the level fall from my wifes hands and has an offset 2.0o. That is not matter as what maters is the relative angle
Here are the videos


http://youtu.be/3d5rWFlVGiQ


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZRs_tw1Dv4&feature=youtu.be

JAZZCNC
24-07-2014, 07:31 PM
Coming along nice Vagelis. Don't waste too much time on trying to level just yet until your ready to do the epoxy leveling. Removing twist is important and it looks like you are doing a good job here.

I would put some more supports under the Bed. Even thou your using steel it will resonate if it's not supported in the middle. I would put 2 more pieces in there.
Also like as been said braces in corners to help keep square won't hurt.

Much nicer feeling building than designing isn't it. . .Lol

ba99297
24-07-2014, 11:35 PM
Thanks for the comments.
Even so far everything is ok i had some issues wtih the gantry and i want your opinion

I plan to build the gantry with 2 pieces 120X60X4mm and 2 pieces 80X80X4mm so i would make sometring like that

Plan A
12885 12886

but i realize that the 120X60 tube is 3mm and not 4mm as i thought. So i think that i may have resonance issues.
TO be more specific at the front of the gantry 10mm steel plate will be welded so finally it will become like this

12887

Plan B
With 2 pieces of 120X60X3mm tube at the top and the bottom and 4 spacers 120X60X3mm 160mm long
1288812889


Plan C
Two 80X80x4mm tubes at the top and bottom and a 120X60X3mm at the middle. May move the 120X60 tube 2cm to the back so to have room for the balnut flange

12890 12891



All thre plans will have the front 10mm steel plate as shown at plan A
All three palns have 280mm gantry height

Plan D
Three 80X80X4mm tubes with the middle tube offset by 4cm to leave room for the ballnut. This will reduce the gantry height to 240mm and i dont know if it will weaken the machine.

So my questions are
1. which of the above plans would be better?
2. Assuming i will put the rails at the front do you think i can reduce the gantry height ( according to my plans it should be 280mm and nearly this should be the distance between the out face of the carriages of y axis). Plan D reduces the gantry height to 240mm. Remember that the length of the gantry is 1160mm.


Thanks for you time

Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
25-07-2014, 01:15 AM
Dont be in a rush with it. better think it again. from various angles.


Now a couple of questions which are related:

-Why the 280mm height? Did you purchase already the rails for the Z at certain length?
-what is the width of the Z carriage plate that slides on the gantry?

Because i believe that it can be made narrower and that bearings with some thought to go behind the Z, not to eat of your Z travel left right/x axis/.

-what about the total weight of the gantry? you are not going with servos, right? this frontal plate will weight a lot. Actually i don't like it for that reason. You can strengthen the gantry in other ways. For example plan B and fit triangles inside where the vertical pieces are and no face plate. If the vertical pieces are spaced ~30cm or less there will be no need at all for face plate.


I was personally for plan B, but... Check again all the details, may be a mix of them all. Cause now looking at my drawings in fact i see B impossible as you draw it, cause you only need 40mm of the ball screw support to go inside so the ball screw housing barely shows, but in that case the rails should go inside the profile, which is impossible. So may be draw it first. To me it seems that C is closest of all to the measures . Just move back the middle piece so its 43mm back from the front.
You can reinforce it like this/ the middle profile in your case/ :


12892


I cant remember if you have already bought the ball screws and the rails, if not-fit that motor inside as i told you at the beginning :-) and save some money for beer :-)

ba99297
25-07-2014, 04:26 PM
Sylyavski i answer your questions to make things clear

The 280mm height is the result of the conevrsations that i had at this thread. They advice me to have minimum distance betwen the outer face of the carriages 250mm. So i make combinations wtih 120X60 and 80X80 tubes to get that height. So two tubes 120X60 at the top and bottom and two 80X80 give me the 280mm

The width of the z axis carriage plate is 370mm. Even if i narrow it as you suggested, i wont get more y axis travel as the spindle plate will conflict with the bottom steel plate ( where x axis carriages will be bolted.

The total weight of the gantry so far is nearly 140 kgr
I will use servos. 4 yaskawa sgmph 400 watt each ( two of them for x axis). 2010 ballscrews for x and y axis, 1605 for Z. 2:1 geat ratio for all axis ( 2 at the ballscrew 1 at the motor. Htd 15 with 5mm pitch aluminum pulleys.

Rails carriages, ballscrews, motors and spindle (2,2 kw) are in my hands. So no change can be made at these components.
If there is any suggestion i will be glad to hear

Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
25-07-2014, 07:54 PM
I get it now. Then maybe you could look at my last post in my next build and consider how I am making my gantry http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/6619-Quite-an-Unusual-one?p=60346#post60346
May be you would like some of mine ideas which i belive will lead to very strong gantry with no overhang and exclusively made from profiles, like the ones you have. That's the best I have come till now.

ba99297
28-07-2014, 01:07 AM
Here is my progress the last two days.
Yesterday all the day pass drilling and taping the bed and the table for attaching the bed
12913
12914
1291512916
12917

And that is how i end up today
12918


No time to write. It is too late... Sorry
Tomorrow

Thanks


Vagelis

ba99297
03-08-2014, 07:59 PM
Today progress
I have to weld the upper 80X80 pieces ( where the rails will rest )
The lower pieces ( over the foots) make i little curve ( nearly 5-6mm ) at the middle as reult of the heating.
So i decided to weld 4 spacers at the corners. Put the upper pieces with spot welding after make everything square and parallel as possible
Here we are
Four spacers 120mm at the corners
12957 12958

Then i put the upper pieces and before i spot weld i try to make everything square. I use the 1160mm pieces (this is th excact distanse that the upper 80X80 pieces should have) that i will use for the gantry, and other parts of the cutting bed to make everything parallel

12959 1296012961 1296212963

After having the tubes as parallel as possible i messure the excact distnace and cut the rest of the spacers. Then i spot weld from the middle to the corners. After everything was in place i start to full weld the table. In order to avoid too much heat i make 2-3 cm welds at a time from one spacer to the other and from the on side to the opposite. So i pass along the table 20-55 times( welding and cleaning the welds). In order to have better welding results i rise the table to have better angle
129641296512966
End of the day and after turning the table upside down to full weld all the sides, i think the result is more than acceptable
12967129681296912970
0.0-0.1 radius ( messured at different spots) the offset between the upper rails and the vertical pieces.
This offset will be zero after epoxy ( ...i hope so )


Next step is to make the tuning foots. That is why i weld a 80mm piece at every leg with a hole in the middle to pass the m18 bolt.
12971
Then the epoxy method will take place

Till now i think it must be nearly 200 kgr. The winch save me from a lot of work
Thansk for your comments
P.s Do you think that the legs should be connected at the lower part of the table?

Vagelis

EddyCurrent
03-08-2014, 08:37 PM
Looking good, I think the legs are okay as they are. Make sure you paint the frame before doing the epoxy, it's a lot easier, but leave just the top surface of the upper rails bare metal so the epoxy sticks good.

Boyan Silyavski
03-08-2014, 11:33 PM
Starts to look very impressive. Nice job. I envy you for your big and nice looking workshop.


-In my opinion you don't need to adjust the table by bolts. The machine needs to be sturdy at earth level. I plan to buy for mine 6 hockey plucks. That's what my friend did and works like a charm. Not needed, but he is a maniac.


-if you follow what Eddy said and paint it, may be don't paint also where the ball screw end supports will be. When the gantry is mounted, then fix the ball screw, then go to one end and then tack solder the fixture for the end support, then go at the other end and repeat. Then remove the ball screw and then solder it carefully there. So when all is ready in the same manner you rectify the ball screws. Cause if you solder now, later may be there would be need to re drill the holes and waste a lot of effort. That's my way of course.

ba99297
03-08-2014, 11:49 PM
Thanks both for your valuable advices.
Syliavski when you say NOT to adjust the table by bolts, what if there is any imperfection 1cm at the floor ? The hockey plucks that you suggest will be welded at the frame. What material are made of these plucks?
When you are talking about the balscrew fixture end support, you are talking about X axis? If you see my plans i am going to attach the fixture to the frame with bolt so it will be adjustable.
As for my work shop thanks for your comments. There is my paradise. Music, creation, and no one to bother me.

EddyCurrent
04-08-2014, 12:04 AM
As for my work shop thanks for your comments. There is my paradise. Music, creation, and no one to bother me.

Nice, where I am it's mostly pissing down with rain.

Boyan Silyavski
04-08-2014, 12:54 AM
I bought M25 or so bolts for the machine, soldered the nuts to the legs, thinking that will hold. When the machine was ready i left it on the nuts only and they lay on the hockey pucks. cause i did not find M25 bolts sturdy enough. On your machine M25 6cm bolt on the legs will shake like a plastic, once that heavy gantry starts accelerating.

The pucks are made from hard PU rubber. make sure they are the solid ones, not refilled with something.


You call 1cm imperfection :joker: , i have to deal with 6-7 cm inclination in my garage and i plan to level it with cement. Thats what is best to do, to level the floor under the machine. If i had to deal with 1cm, i would simply stick 10mm steel plate below the leg.


Translate for you design:
I meant these pieces in blue Not to be welded until the gantry is ready and mounted and rectified in all directions:
12974


Then bolt these 2 together with a piece of paper between them/that for the later paint thickness
12975


Then bolt all that is in blue together as it would be at the end, trying all bolts to be in the center of the holes. the bolts must not be tightened very much
12976


Now move to one end the gantry and spot weld with 5- 6 spots 1 of the pieces in blue from the first picture. Rotate by hand the screw and move to other end of machine. Now you spot weld the other fixture.

then dismount all in blue, ballscrews , etc. Then weld well the 2 fixtures. No everything is in parallel/guide rails and ball screws/ and perpendicular/ball screw supports.

When painted and ready, mount them the same way. So the only necessary adjustment will me made by the play of the bolts that hold the ball screw end supports to the fixtures. Tighten them when gantry is at that end.

In other words, now all 2 rails and 2 ballscrews are exactly parallel and have exactly same travel. Doesn't matter if one is up or down, otherwise using other method that also should be taken care of.

Boyan Silyavski
04-08-2014, 01:08 AM
PS. Somebody has to hold the screw not to bend by its weight and the weight of the fixture

ba99297
04-08-2014, 10:21 PM
Silyavski thank so much for your time and your help
Also thanks for your plans and your colored designs
I will make the legs ( they wont be 6cm long) i will make them as sort as possible
I will use them to perfectly level the machine while apply the epoxy at x axis, and if the floor is leveled when i pu the machine at its final position, i may only use shims

Thanks again

Vagelis

Ps:My ballcrew end support fixtures wont be welded but bolted at the frame so it will be possible to make small adjustments

ba99297
12-08-2014, 10:53 PM
Hi everybody
Here is my last week progress
Firstly i get the bolts and the steel pieces laser cutted last Friday
1303513036

In order to save money i didnt laser cut the holes ( wherever needed ) except the straight slots. I just ask to point the center of the holes
So i use these centers and then i drill the holes

130371303813039

At the following photo you can see two pieces that will be bolted together. The upper piece will be welded with the gantry tubes and then it will be bolted with the lower piece. The holes of the two pieces should be excactly coeficient so i drill the upper piece an the i put the one piece over the other to mark the ceter of the holes
1304013041
After pointing the centers i had to drill the holes. That took me A LOT OF TIME. Even more time i need for the tapping
130421304313044

Today i start the adjustable foot construction. Syliavski suggest me not to put that foots. Even if i use them or not they are very usefull to level the table as perfect as possible for the epoxy method. You will see each foot has 4 holes. The one at the center is for the bolt the other two ( the smaller ones ) are to bolt a softer material at the side of the foot that touch the ground. The fourth hole is for bolting the foot at the floor


1304513046130471304813049

Then i lift the table with the winch and put the foots
1305013051

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1RO4O7IUfc
After that i go on with the tapping. Too much time but the result was more than good
13052130531305413055
After i bolt the side parts i start to work with the gantry. I put the two side braces on the table and then i attach the vertical 10m plate.
1305613057
If you can see the stell plate has two projections ( left and right ) that will "sit" at the side braces so that the distance will be driven by these slots. It is something like a tagram.

13058
Then i use long bolts to "tune" the gantry

130591306013061
At the follwing video you can see how everyhing joined nice

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvcRhIGgUe8
At the above photos you cant see the gantry tubes, as i put them later. But you can see them at the follwing video where i make a level test

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q90-rIGHBj8&feature=youtu.be

This is my progress so far. Tomorrow i will bolt the front steel plate at the tubes and weld the tubes with the internal side plates

Thanks for your time
I will be glad to here your comments

Vagelis

EddyCurrent
12-08-2014, 11:18 PM
The laser cut parts look great, I like how the holes have been marked with both a centre and an outline of the hole. This is good engineering practice and I don't know if you already know this but if the drill moves off centre this is how to bring it back into line;
If the outline of the hole had not been marked you would not know if the drill had moved off centre.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESWzx3YBo3g

JAZZCNC
12-08-2014, 11:50 PM
This is good engineering practice and I don't know if you already know this but if the drill moves off centre this is how to bring it back into line;

Nah good engineering practice is to do it right first time and use a proper spot drill not some poxy pin prick mark.!!

Looking Good Vagelis don't drop it on your toes mate. . .Lol . . . . . .Drilling & Tapping 100's of holes in 10mm steel is good for building character and stamina needed to setup and run CNC machine. . :thumsup:

EddyCurrent
13-08-2014, 09:39 AM
Nah good engineering practice is to do it right first time and use a proper spot drill not some poxy pin prick mark.!!

That is correct but it's not what I said.

I said, ". . . the holes have been marked with both a centre and an outline of the hole. This is good engineering practice . . ."

I know this because I have served a proper engineering apprenticeship when things were done right.

ba99297
13-08-2014, 09:56 AM
One small problem
I phone the supplyer of west system resigns here in Greece and he told me that for 105 resign he only has the 206 hardener and not the 209 ( that is recomended by the members here in my cncuk). Do you think that i can do my Job with the 206 hardener and not the 209. The temperature here in Greece is 32-35 and nearly 25-30 at my worklace.

Thanks

Clive S
13-08-2014, 10:17 AM
One small problem
I phone the supplyer of west system resigns here in Greece and he told me that for 105 resign he only has the 206 hardener and not the 209 ( that is recomended by the members here in my cncuk). Do you think that i can do my Job with the 206 hardener and not the 209. The temperature here in Greece is 32-35 and nearly 25-30 at my worklace.
Thanks

I have used the Wests System and spoken to them a couple of times. I think you really need the 209 as it has a very slow cure and that is what you need for the resin to level out. I purchased mine here : http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/ not many suppliers appear to stock it but can order it for you. ..Clive

Boyan Silyavski
13-08-2014, 10:31 AM
I agree, i don't see how it would be done without the proper hardener.
I purchased mine from http://www.dansonmarine.co.uk/ and he shipped 2 packs to Spain for 17GBP for 3-4 days.

Maybe buy locally the epoxy and purchase only the hardener, have to check with them though.

For the Hiwin 20 rails the minimum width of the epoxy should be 40mm, that leaves 10mm each side of the rails, cause epoxy rises like 5mm near the edge. I made mine something like 5mm high. Used magnets 4.5mm thick at both corners both sides, to check visually whats going on and make perfect 5mm height


About the laser cut pieces, i dont see why they would charge more for the holes. I ordered mine with holes, that's was the whole point, to save time drilling precisely. Even the 4mm holes were perfect.

ba99297
13-08-2014, 12:08 PM
Clive_S and Syliavski thanks both for your answers
As for the holes Syliavski there is a limit about the holes that laser can cut in relation to the material thickness.
So at 10mm plate isnt easy to cut 4mm holes. Also the charge at laser cutting is according the time the machine cuts ( this of course is influenced by the length of cut, material thickness and material )

Vagelis

ba99297
14-08-2014, 10:57 PM
Hi everybody
Today i go on with the gantry
I start by drilling the holes for the bf/bk on y axis. to do this i remove the 120X60X3mm middle tube of the gantry. I put the ballscrew on place and point the holes
1309413097

Then i put the tube back to the gantry and start aligning the tubes with the steel plates. After that i start spot welding the pieces. With small weld in order not to produce muh heat


130961309513099
At this photo you can see the 1120mm long m8 bolts that i use to keep in place the side 10mm steel plates
1309813100

After the side spot welding i had to weld the tubes at their side that atteced each other
First pass i start with spot welding every 10-12 cm. Second pass i weld between the old spot welds ( every 6cm) and so on.... In order to have better result i turn the gantry a bit

1310213101
Finally i end with this result
13103

1310413105
Then i put the front steel plate on the tubes construction and temporarily i put the rails on, in oredr to see where to drill the holes in order to bolt the plate to the tubes

131061310713108

The only question i have is about the way i weld the tubes. Are these spot welds ( every 3-4 cm) enough or i should make a full weld

Thanks for your time
Any suggestion will be glad to hear

Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
15-08-2014, 01:31 AM
That with the long screws holding the plate is great idea, thanks for sharing the photos. I will do the same, as i don't have long clamps.

All looks very good!

I fully welded the gantry on the machine i finished and spot welded the Z. Now that you have all in place why don't you repeat the spot welding until all spot welds are very close?
If it was me, i will fully weld it, though it seems that will work both ways. Welding precisely takes a lot of time , i know. I made 5cm stitches, and took care that the temperature of the gantry not to rise above 60 degrees. Used an infrared thermometer. And had to wait a lot for the metal to cool.

You were lucky if your long plate was straight. I had to hammer down to rectify some of the laser cut stuff. Good that i have very big plastic head hammers.

ba99297
15-08-2014, 08:27 AM
That with the long screws holding the plate is great idea, thanks for sharing the photos. I will do the same, as i don't have long clamps.

Now that you have all in place why don't you repeat the spot welding until all spot welds are very close?
If it was me, i will fully weld it, though it seems that will work both ways. Welding precisely takes a lot of time , i know. I made 5cm stitches, and took care that the temperature of the gantry not to rise above 60 degrees. Used an infrared thermometer.
Syliavski i think ( not sure, that is why i ask ) that i have nothing to add to the stiffness of the machine. One small spot weld is too strong . On the other hand too much heat may cause deflection and twist . Dont forget that my machine is bigger than yours ( y axis is 1160mm long) so it is more possible to have twist issues.



You were lucky if your long plate was straight. I had to hammer down to rectify some of the laser cut stuff. Good that i have very big plastic head hammers.

I think it is not but when i bolt it on the tube construction it will be as straight as the tubes. Even then i am not sure everything will be straight. May be machining or epoxy method will be applyied.
I have a small problem with the resign. The Greek supplyer of West system epoxy doesn have the 209 hardener. On the other hand the 209 hardener is not easy to be shipped as it is described as dangerous to travel . I have to look for another resign

Vagelis

Clive S
15-08-2014, 09:13 AM
I have a small problem with the resign. The Greek supplyer of West system epoxy doesn have the 209 hardener. On the other hand the 209 hardener is not easy to be shipped as it is described as dangerous to travel . I have to look for another resign
Vagelis
Well check here:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/West-Systems-Extra-Slow-Hardener-66-Pint-209-SA-/131264068473?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Acc essories&hash=item1e8ff2bb79 I know this is not a good place to buy it but they do ship to your country . Have you tried to buy it from the UK or perhaps tried a boat yard, also ask them why they can ship the 205 but not the 209. Wests is the best product and it gives you about a 10 hour cure. ..Clive

Boyan Silyavski
15-08-2014, 09:26 AM
Apart from stiffness there is dampening of vibrations to consider. Not fully welding may worsen things there. I have never seen commercial mill or cnc spot welded, that should be enough answer for you.

Not every one uses epoxy. I believe it helps dampening. There is German company selling something similar, it was called Moglis, I am not sure. Will search, I had the link somewhere. It's meant to be used for shimming the rails. You can do that with normal epoxy, though the proper one has high compression rating without deformation.
Shimming definitely will be cheaper. But then you will need long straight edge.

ba99297
15-08-2014, 06:00 PM
Well check here:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/West-Systems-Extra-Slow-Hardener-66-Pint-209-SA-/131264068473?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Acc essories&hash=item1e8ff2bb79 I know this is not a good place to buy it but they do ship to your country . Have you tried to buy it from the UK or perhaps tried a boat yard, also ask them why they can ship the 205 but not the 209. Wests is the best product and it gives you about a 10 hour cure. ..Clive
The Greek supplier can ship me the 105 epoxy and the 205-206 hardener but he doesn’t import the 209 hardener.
Other sites even from uk they cant ship (via air) any hardener. Find them

http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/p-611-west-system-epoxy-resin-a-packs-12kg.aspx
i think they are cheap at their prices but i emailed them and they answered

"HI Unfortunately we do not stock this product abd cannot ship outside of the Uk due to hazardous content, you may be best to contact west system direct for nearest distributor. Sorry we could not assist with your enquiry . Kind rgds Martin"

As searching i saw that some datasheet measure the viscosity at cps and others at mpa.s. I don’t know what is the difference as when i google search for a converter

http://www.aqua-calc.com/convert/dynamic-viscosity/centipoise-to-millipascal-second/start/165
i see that they are equal


I found a company CARBON MODS (http://www.aandreou.gr/carbon-mods)

http://www.carbonmods.co.uk/products/resin-infusion-complete-starter-kit.aspx

that sells its products through this site
http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/

At this site
http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/products/epoxy-resin/epoxy-infusion-resin.aspx

i found an infusion epoxy resign
here is the datasheet
http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/downloads/TDS/EC-TDS-IN2-Infusion-Resin.pdf

From a first reading it seems to have ( according the numbers of the datasheet ) smaller combined viscosity (225 mpa.s) than 105+209 hardener resign (650 cps ) , also it has pot life 80-100 minutes (slow hardener ) smaller than 105+209 (40-50 minutes) , and the price is 18.42+vat pounds.
I don’t know which product is better for our application.


but when i go to the transport details page
http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/dangerous-goods-international-shipping.aspx

Greece is at the red list

Thanks for your participation

EddyCurrent
15-08-2014, 06:04 PM
This is the stuff I used, worked fine.
http://www.reactiveresins.com/syntacliquidepoxyresins.pdf

Boyan Silyavski
16-08-2014, 01:11 AM
This is the stuff I used, worked fine.
http://www.reactiveresins.com/syntacliquidepoxyresins.pdf

Edyy, was it cheaper you said?




Did you checked the link (http://info@dansonmarine.co.uk) i provided you. For sure they ship, as i have it in my garage :frog:

Here is another link, they ship also PS. deleted the last link, very expensive.





From a first reading it seems to have ( according the numbers of the datasheet ) smaller combined viscosity (225 mpa.s) than 105+209 hardener resign (650 cps ) , also it has pot life 80-100 minutes (slow hardener ) smaller than 105+209 (40-50 minutes) , and the price is 18.42+vat pounds.
I don’t know which product is better for our application.



Its not only that. There are other things important for leveling the rails. The compression yeld, surface quality and precision.

13115

ba99297
27-08-2014, 06:31 PM
I am confused
First of all they dont ship to Greece ( may be to other countries but not to Greece) any epoxy because it is dangerous
The Greek supplyer doesn import the 209 hardener
I find other epoxy systems but every one has different datasheet parameters
For example west system says pot life of 100gr at 22 C, other says pot life 1lt at 25 C. How to compare?
Also it is not clear what everybody mean by saying Pot life, gel time, working time. I call them . One says all the above are the same, other says they are not. I have not a way to compare.
I find one Greek supplyer that has an australian product Megapoxy HX
This product has 60 cps viscocity and working time according the greek site (english version ) datasheet 30 minutes


http://www.megapoxy.gr/index.php?pN=megapoxy&txtProductID=6283
and the datasheet here

http://www.megapoxy.gr/images/pdf/Megapoxy_%20HX_%20injection_application_%20En.pdf

and according an australian site (english version ) datasheet

http://www.permatech.com.au/tds/megapoxy_hx_tds.pdf 60 minutes.

What i should believe?

Also its compressive strength is bigger than west system (13778 PSI vs 12000 PSI )
For sure viscocity is very low ( ten times smaller than west system) , but working time also


Thanks for your time

Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
27-08-2014, 07:29 PM
:toot:wait a second! :toot:

I am going to explode from epoxy knowledge these last days :hysterical:

I am right here where you are with my next build . I need epoxy also, so i have done some additional research, locally, i mean. $$$$ i mean versus West System


1. How many L or KG of mix you will need, add 30% at least, for errors or mistake in calculation.

The channel for 20mm rail must be 40mm wide and 5mm thick

Yesteday i read a lot of epoxy material and it seems that the minimum thickness must be 3mm at least -otherwise the forces will not spread. So what we do here at the forum 5mm is ok.

2. lets see what compression strength epoxy we really need.

Heavy duty build, like mine or yours.
2x90mm Hiwin each side, separated at least 90mm each +50mm force spread approximately each side, that 20mm wide= ((2x90+90+2x50)x20)2=14.800 mm2= 148cm2

12800psi to kg/cm2=843kg/cm2 , so we have 148cm2 x 843kg/cm2==124 764 kg . safety factor 125 tons :3= 40 ton gantry , It seems enough, yes?


2. I am at the point of buying epoxy

I found 8kg pack of Spanish epoxy that seems to fit the purpose for 140euro. I need half only. it has only 120kg per cm2 resistance, but even that is more than enough. I can spit it in half if enough for you and ship it to Greece via UPS for 20eur. I spoke personally with the guy that makes the epoxy and he told me it will be perfect for the purpose

I am waiting to speak tomorrow with another company which has very similar epoxy to WS, and slightly cheaper per kg if to buy small packs.

or i could buy more 209 hardener from UK, together with all i need for my build and ship it to you. i can ship up to 30kg for 20eur to you.

So don't waste time with the epoxy, calculate what you need and i will help you.

3. gell time is when the poxy becomes unworkable. Pot life is the same but only if you keep the mix in the pot, where it hardens faster than if spread on the rails. Thats why the confusion. the more epoxy you keep in one pot, the faster it hardens, hence they must state how many g or kg when saying gel time or pot life.

Clive S
27-08-2014, 08:17 PM
The most important parameter is the viscosity because it need to flow like water to level out and the longer the cure time (wests is 10 - 20 hours) the better as it will have more chance to level out. Also let it cure for at least 5 days. ..Clive

EddyCurrent
27-08-2014, 09:23 PM
This is what it says about shipping where I got my stuff.
http://www.reactiveresins.com/index.html

"Shipping and handling
Orders over £200 sterling will be delivered free to most of Europe including the following countries Belgium, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Gibraltar, Greece, Italy, Lithuania, Netherlands, Norway Poland, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, Turkey
We use various couriers in order to get the best combination of service and value for money for our customers."

Now I'm not saying you want £200 worth of epoxy but my point is they will ship it to Greece / Spain all you need do is contact them for a price.

When you click to 'buy on line' it takes you here; http://www.resinstore.com/epoxy-packs.html
The one I used was this, 'Syntac EPAFD Slow Cure Epoxy Resin Pack'

Edyy, was it cheaper you said? Yes it was cheaper than West Systems

Boyan Silyavski
27-08-2014, 10:38 PM
very interesting book and fast to read. http://nilsmalmgren.com/Laddas/Epoxy_handbook.pdf

from the book:

13227

JAZZCNC
27-08-2014, 11:23 PM
The one I used was this, 'Syntac EPAFD Slow Cure Epoxy Resin Pack'
Yes it was cheaper than West Systems

But didn't yours Sink Eddy.? . . . . No point being cheap if it's going to compress.!

Boyan Silyavski
28-08-2014, 09:44 AM
But didn't yours Sink Eddy.? . . . . No point being cheap if it's going to compress.!

I agree there completely.

Eddy, just reread your build thread. It seems that what saved you was that you tightened equally the screws. But nevertheless that was a disaster in my opinion. I would have returned the epoxy :hysterical: for complete refund, given that you followed all normal epoxy procedure: weight the mixture to the gram, mix carefully 5 minutes, pour in new container before applying, apply at correct temperature, dry at correct humidity and temperature.
If you remember my thread, the WS epoxy could be filed just next day, though i waited a week. It was like snow flakes with excellent machine ability just next day.

Of course i also made a mistake there. i should have covered the rails below with epoxy base, so it would glue better to the steel. i did not do it and the small pieces at the gantry legs unglued when drilling. I fixed it but still see this as serious mistake from my side.


Just read at Spanish forum that the epoxy i was aiming for did not harden properly when the mix volume was very small - 10g. Thats another good reference if the epoxy is any good or crap... How it behaves when the mixture volume is very small. So its a "no go" for me and i will be ordering the West System today. After spending 5k for my machine i don't see a reason for saving 80euros.

EddyCurrent
28-08-2014, 09:51 AM
But didn't yours Sink Eddy.? . . . . No point being cheap if it's going to compress.!

Only because I didn't let it cure long enough before tightening it down. I've obviously checked it all again since and It's not moved one bit. If I build another machine I would be using the same stuff again.
silyavski, it was not nearly as bad as you are making out, remember it was others who said it was a 'disaster' not me.

Boyan Silyavski
28-08-2014, 09:55 AM
Only because I didn't let it cure long enough before tightening it down. I've obviously checked it all again since and It's not moved one bit. If I build another machine I would be using the same stuff again.
silyavski, it was not nearly as bad as you are making out, remember it was others who said it was a 'disaster' not me.

Could you do the 10g-20g mixture test if you have anything left? To see what happens?

EddyCurrent
28-08-2014, 10:05 AM
Could you do the 10g-20g mixture test if you have anything left? To see what happens?

How should the test be done ? what are we looking for ?

Boyan Silyavski
28-08-2014, 11:17 AM
How should the test be done ? what are we looking for ?

Just mix a very small amount, 20g in total and see if it hardens well. Should use a precision scale though. The idea is that the epoxies if don't behave well in very small quantities but behave well when mixed half kg for example, are poor quality.

ba99297
28-08-2014, 09:45 PM
Thank for your answers.
Syliavski also thanks for your intention to help
I will search a little more and if i didnt find anything i will let you know.
My last search bring me up to this company. Have a look at the page that discribes its products

http://www.5m.cz/en/epoxy-resins/

PR 220 (resin) with EM316 (hardener ) has 120-150 minutes pot life
PR 220 (resin) with EM317 (hardener ) has 200-250 minutes pot life !!!! but not curing at room temperature

Here in Greece they import only 315 hardener to be combined with PR220 resin. This hardener suppose to be the fast, but it has pot life 50-60 minutes 200 gr at 25C ( when west system 105+209 has 40-50 minutes 100gr at 22 C). When i ask about the price ( here in Greece ) they told me 22 euros+vat but am not sure if they are talking about the PR220 or PR102 resin. Have a look.

ba99297
25-11-2014, 11:27 AM
Hi everybody
Long time has passed since my last post
It is because after summer holidays, schools starts and (as I am a school teacher-computer science) I had too much work.
Last night I decide to restart by installing the hiwin profiled rails
I start with X axis in order to install the master rail. I measure, I mark the holes and then drill with 4mm first and then with 4.2mm in order to tap the m5 bolts.
Then I bolt two carriages on a steel plate st39 ( not perfectly milled yet ) and then I put the carriages on the rail. The movement isn’t very easy. As I put pressure on the plate, the movement become easier ( as cause of preload overcoming). I didn’t lubricate the rail or the carriage for this first test.
I didn’t epoxy level the 80X80 beams (where the rails rest) as when I test them against straight edge I didn’t notice more than 0,15mm gap, so I will go on with shimming.
My questions are


Do I have to lubricate the carriages for these first test travels
What will be the normal pressure for moving the carriages
As I apply force in order to overcome the preload forces I hear a sound from the carriages (krrrrrrrr ) is this normal?


Later I will come with photos and videos to show how the carriages move.

Thanks for your time

Vagelis

Jonathan
25-11-2014, 11:46 AM
0.15mm is a pretty huge misalignment for these sorts of rails. The datasheets specify something in the order of micrometers.




I would, since if you're having trouble aligning them then you're potentially putting big forces on them, so lubrication might help prevent damage.
About the same as before the rail is mounted. When a flanged carriage is bolted down to a flat surface, the carraige is often designed to distort and apply slightly more preload, so you may notice an increase in friction. However if you leave the carraiges off what they mount on for now, there should be no more friction with the rail bolted down. If there is then your rail is seriously bent.
No ... sounds like the rail, or something, is bent a lot.

Boyan Silyavski
25-11-2014, 04:24 PM
Hi Vagelis,

You will do it right, just don't be in a hurry. It's a precision work.

Use oil not WD40!!!

RTFM!! Download and read the Hiwin Manual. Where the say about the WD40 by the wayNot oiled makes noise but moves freely
I told you need straight edge. Spend 60 eur and buy at least the 1meter one. It would easily show your real misalignment spots.
Don't push anything directly, I mean the bearing blocks. Work around them so everything is straight and so that screws are in the middle of the hole. Where necessary to widen holes.

ba99297
25-11-2014, 09:39 PM
Jonathan and Syliavski thanks for your comments.
Syliavski i have already bought 1200mm straight edge
I think that first i have to perfectly mill the plates where the carriages are bolted
Using the straight edge i must then shim the rails to be perfectly flat
Another two question
1. I read the hiwin maual and it says ( for carriages lubrcation ) to use lithium soap base grease. Is tha a MUST or i could use oil ( and what oil ) instead of grease.
2. Do we also lubricate the rails or only the carriages?

Thenks for your participation

vargai
25-11-2014, 10:02 PM
Hi Vagelis ,
I am happy you are on board again
I do not think you have big preload -Z1?
Fist I think krrr is not critical , lubricant will help to reach prrrrr.:)
I only have an use bearing at home so I am waiting the sound result.
The pushing force is a good feedback I suppose
Regards
IstvŠn

ba99297
30-11-2014, 08:21 PM
It is very possible to go on with epoxy finally as I measure gap (beam against straight edge ) nearly 0,25mm and shimming seams to be very difficult for me.

As i had told here in Greece they import 105 west system epoxy but they don’t import 209 hardener but only 206. So i will make some experiment with other epoxies much more cheaper ( 25 euros / 1,2 kgr). Ebay supplier asks 90pounds for 1.2 kgr 105-209 system.


The problem is that the temperature in my work place is now 16-17 celsious and it is dropping more as Decemper comes. So if i want to apply the epoxy method i will have to make a place with controlled heating system in order to keep the temperature as low as 20-21 celsious.
Second solution will be to go on with shimming and third ( the most expensive ) to ask a friend of mine ( that builds woodcutting machines) to use one of his machines and mill my top beams in order to come in the same plane ( but this will cost).


I want to ask
#1 ( very important to know what I am trying for )
When you measure the flatness of a beam ( or epoxy surface) against a straight edge, what is the acceptable tolerance-gap ( so we assume the surface is straight) . I use light to understand whether my top beams attach the straight edge. The touching points can be easily seen. But at other points althought i can see that there is no touch ( light passes through) , the 0,02mm Gap Filler cant pass through the gap. So what is the critical gap ? the light passing test ( that is less than 0,02mm ) or the 0,02mm gap filler test?

#2
When someone use the solution with the adjustable top beams ( without epoxy) or the shimming method how does he succeed to have the top rails in the same plane. How does he know when the two rails ( left and right ) are in the same plane? Is the thread method accurate ( the method that with the use of two threads you create the diagonals of the top rails like X. If the diagonals are in touch at the centre that means that the rails are in the same plane.

#3
When we use the epoxy method we first drill then tap then close the holes and then apply epoxy or we apply epoxy then drill and tap?

#3
What is the right angle to hold a single beveled straight edge? 90 degrees?45? something else?


Thanks for your time
Vagelis

EddyCurrent
30-11-2014, 11:04 PM
1. I read the hiwin maual and it says ( for carriages lubrcation ) to use lithium soap base grease. Is tha a MUST or i could use oil ( and what oil ) instead of grease.
2. Do we also lubricate the rails or only the carriages?

1. I think if you use grease then the lithium is a must, but oil can be used, Jonathan used it here for example; http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/6484-A-sufficiently-strong-machine
I get the correct grease here; http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/d60/Mechanics+Tools/sd180/Lithium+Grease+400g/p89691
2. Lubricate the carriages only, they will pass lubrication onto the rails.



#3
When we use the epoxy method we first drill then tap then close the holes and then apply epoxy or we apply epoxy then drill and tap?
#4
What is the right angle to hold a single beveled straight edge? 90 degrees?45? something else?

3. I drilled and tapped all the holes after I poured the epoxy, there were no problems by doing this.
4. 90 degrees because you do not want the straight edge to bend in the middle.

Neale
30-11-2014, 11:23 PM
I've been working on my machine this evening, and I think that we are a very similar stage of build! I was levelling the frame of my machine (similar size - cutting area about 1500x750) and thinking about epoxy. I have already bought my epoxy (Reactive Resins low-viscosity with slow hardener) but they say that it should not be used below 8C. In my part of the UK at the moment, that's about the night-time temperature and daytime is only about 12C (and probably slightly cooler in my garage).

As well as I can measure it, I have a dip in my rails of about 1.3mm in the centre. Not as accurate as I would like - not sure if it was a bend in the original 100x50 box sections, or welding distortion - but I think that that will be fine with epoxy. However, I could shim it, if I can find some suitable material. Epoxy has the advantage of also bringing both rails into the same plane, of course, which would be much more difficult with shims (tapered shims, anyone?). What I don't know is what kind of tolerance you need to work to with Hiwin rails - what kind of relative twist in the two rails is OK? If both rails are perfectly horizontal in both planes but one is, say, 1mm higher than the other, would this matter? On my machine, that is a twist in the bearing block of about 0.06deg, or 0.001mm across the rail. Doesn't sound like a lot to me, but I have no practical experience of the real-world tolerances on these things.

I'm planning to epoxy first and drill/tap through the epoxy and rail later. My feeling is that this will be easier, and certainly better than trying to remove the epoxy that has leaked into the tapped holes.

Boyan Silyavski
30-11-2014, 11:42 PM
#1 ( very important to know what I am trying for )
When you measure the flatness of a beam ( or epoxy surface) against a straight edge, what is the acceptable tolerance-gap ( so we assume the surface is straight) . I use light to understand whether my top beams attach the straight edge. The touching points can be easily seen. But at other points althought i can see that there is no touch ( light passes through) , the 0,02mm Gap Filler cant pass through the gap. So what is the critical gap ? the light passing test ( that is less than 0,02mm ) or the 0,02mm gap filler test?


I looked to see if it was tight fit. All theory evaporates when you are trying to check 3m rails, flashlight in your mouth , in a tight garage holding 14kg straight edge. Just dont be in a rush, call somebody to help you, prepare good flashlight and look every 15cm if all is ok. Hold the straight edge with not much pressure, scrape it around and try to feel if all is same or ok. At the end the sound and feel helps more than the eyes at that exercise




#2
When someone use the solution with the adjustable top beams ( without epoxy) or the shimming method how does he succeed to have the top rails in the same plane. How does he know when the two rails ( left and right ) are in the same plane? Is the thread method accurate ( the method that with the use of two threads you create the diagonals of the top rails like X. If the diagonals are in touch at the center that means that the rails are in the same plane.


At the end it seems they use eye and feel. That doesn't mean really its very precise or of real importance. In reality, measuring between 1800mm separated rails, i can lift one of the rails 1mm and it will still seem to you checking with the edge that all is ok and they are on the same plane. Cause the judge contact area is very small. That is what i discovered the other day. But on the other side if it looks straight and both rails look to be on the same plane checked against straight edge, thats enough good. Cause later when the bed is surfaced say you make a 20cm detail. If your table is wrong say 0.5mm, which is tremendous in my eyes, the 20cm detail will still be made to 0.05 or better. The other point being here that all long and large pieces made on a cnc really don't need such precision/wood, mdf/ or just the temperature difference /expansion overrules the actual machine precision.
However in the future i intend to do gantries, surfacing for small machines and similar stuff in aluminum, that's why i pushed my build for perfection and wasted so much money on epoxies. But that's my explanation of thing, it came to my mind the other day when i was trying to shim my right long rail cause there was some new problem with the epoxy that i have not seen.

Boyan Silyavski
01-12-2014, 12:02 AM
I've been working on my machine this evening, and I think that we are a very similar stage of build! I was levelling the frame of my machine (similar size - cutting area about 1500x750) and thinking about epoxy. I have already bought my epoxy (Reactive Resins low-viscosity with slow hardener) but they say that it should not be used below 8C. In my part of the UK at the moment, that's about the night-time temperature and daytime is only about 12C (and probably slightly cooler in my garage).


I have done the first machine at 14-16C, but i believe any lower is not good idea.




What I don't know is what kind of tolerance you need to work to with Hiwin rails - what kind of relative twist in the two rails is OK? If both rails are perfectly horizontal in both planes but one is, say, 1mm higher than the other, would this matter? On my machine, that is a twist in the bearing block of about 0.06deg, or 0.001mm across the rail. Doesn't sound like a lot to me, but I have no practical experience of the real-world tolerances on these things.

For 20 size z1 preload :
-mounting surface parallelism 0.02mm
-block mounting surface 0.01mm

It will withstand more, just loosing life expectancy.



I'm planning to epoxy first and drill/tap through the epoxy and rail later. My feeling is that this will be easier, and certainly better than trying to remove the epoxy that has leaked into the tapped holes.

vargai
01-12-2014, 10:00 PM
#2
How does he know when the two rails ( left and right ) are in the same plane?
Vagelis
Hi Vagelis,

As I see you have a longer distance than 1 m to bridge with linear edge
As far as I am concerned when I am get ready to the implementation, one of the 1st thing to buy will be a linear edge and a machine level (and so on).
With machine level you can detect 0,02 mm deviation in 1 m with helping a good linear edge and additionally you can check the single rail twisting, leveling exactly.
I suppose this is the easy way to work in the horizontal plane

vargai
01-12-2014, 10:19 PM
bearing block of about 0.06deg, or 0.001mm across the rail.
any CNC producer can be happy with this. I am just wonder how did you measured this 0,001 mm?

Boyan Silyavski
02-12-2014, 04:47 AM
Something came to my mind. When doing the epoxy thing, they both should be one temperature with the frame. Means Not pour and then turn the heater on as it would be a disaster. bring a heater to the workshop, turn it on for a couple of hours so the epoxy and the frame will be one temperature. Then leave it for overnight while the epoxy is cured.

vargai
02-12-2014, 08:01 AM
regarding to the epoxy itself it seems good thing against vibration too .
Pls advise about the strength and hardness with comparing to ie. AL.
When one bolts onto a rail with M6-is its compression negligible?

Neale
02-12-2014, 10:18 AM
any CNC producer can be happy with this. I am just wonder how did you measured this 0,001 mm?

I didn't measure this directly. It's based on a difference in heights of rail of 1mm and a rail spacing of 1m. Looking at the hiwin catalogue, I think they say that the bearing blocks can tolerate a slight rotation around the rail, and a height difference of 0.26mm (20mm rail, 1m spacing). This is a lot more than the figure that Silyavski has given, but I might have misunderstood something.

vargai
02-12-2014, 11:52 AM
I didn't measure this directly. It's based on a difference in heights of rail of 1mm and a rail spacing of 1m. Looking at the hiwin catalogue, I think they say that the bearing blocks can tolerate a slight rotation around the rail, and a height difference of 0.26mm (20mm rail, 1m spacing). This is a lot more than the figure that Silyavski has given, but I might have misunderstood something.

Only the 1 micron (you wrote 0.001mm) seemed to tight. The angle is correct, the level deviation on 20 mm is 0,02 as my dwg says
It is one magnitude bigger but I do not think it has too big impact on a router-by the way I would not be satisfied either with 1 mm on 1 m because deviations accumulates according to the Murphy catalogue
http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=13953&stc=1

Neale
02-12-2014, 04:07 PM
Perfectly correct, Vargai - I forgot to multiply the "1 in a 1000" ratio by the width of the rail. I've slapped my own wrist...

vargai
03-12-2014, 11:19 AM
Perfectly correct, Vargai - I forgot to multiply the "1 in a 1000" ratio by the width of the rail. I've slapped my own wrist...
I would not have intact body portion so just meant to understand you

ba99297
31-01-2016, 11:53 PM
Hello everybody
I am happy that i restart my project
Many things had happened during the last year, that make me stop any kind of progress
That until August when i decide to restart, but first i had to make some changes in my working place
The most important was that the floor was worn and all these years was a source of dust.
That was the situation before
174421744317444

I decided that i must lay tiles and keep one place with some kind of heavy duty concrete, in order to be able to weld, as tiles even if they are very hard though they are not suitable for such jobs
First i had to clear the floor from old paint
Two days of water blasting with my karcher finally make possible this
174451744617447

Then i begun to lay tiles
1744817449
It was the first time for me that i lay tiles in such a big scale ( 80 m2), and i lay them diagonally
Finally the result is this


174501745117452
I had the chance to paint. I decide to paint with oil paint the first one meter and the rest with water color
174531745417454
Then i had to make the "baby room". Yes thats right!!!! the place that i will put the cnc. I had some old aluminum doors and i dont want to sell them for scrap. I also had some drop ceiling parts, so i use them all and i made this
174551745617457
Yesterday i move the frame and all the components in order to restart building
17458174591746017461

As you can see the machine is rolling on 4 wheels. That makes the removal of the machine very easy
Finally the "baby" get in the new house
174621746317464
So Today i start working again on the machine.
Nice feeling
First i had to cut some ruber parts for the adjustable feets
174651746617467

So far that is my progress
I will continue tomorrow
Thanks for your time
Vagelis

JAZZCNC
01-02-2016, 02:04 PM
Looking Good Vagelis. Nice and cool. . .:cool:

ba99297
01-02-2016, 10:09 PM
Dean thanks for your good words
As more than a year has passed since my last attemp of rails intalation, today i go on
I had some questions that i wrote 1,5 year ago (30-11-2014 #171).
I repeat them in order to understand what level of accuracy i have to achieve

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#1 ( very important to know what I am trying for )
When you measure the flatness of a beam ( or epoxy surface) against a straight edge, what is the acceptable tolerance-gap ( so we assume the surface is straight) . I use light to understand whether my top beams attach the straight edge. The touching points can be easily seen. But at other points althought i can see that there is no touch ( light passes through) , the 0,02mm Gap Filler cant pass through the gap. So what is the critical gap ? the light passing test ( that is less than 0,02mm ) or the 0,02mm gap filler test?

#2
When someone use the solution with the adjustable top beams ( without epoxy) or the shimming method how does he succeed to have the top rails in the same plane. How does he know when the two rails ( left and right ) are in the same plane?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hiwin maual (among others) has this table that says ( if i read right the table) that the height H of a rail has a range +- 0.1 mm for normal accuracy rails
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17482
Thanks for your time
Vagelis

ba99297
02-02-2016, 10:00 PM
A little progress today
This is a try to level my cnc before i go on with hiwin rails.
I use an aluminum spirit level and a digital Protractor Inclinometer that has a permanent tilt of 2o against earth level ( upper value on lcd screen) after it dropped from my hands.
What is important is the relative angle
Here is the result.
If somebody has something to say about the previous post #186 questions, i will be glad to hear

Thanks for you time
https://youtu.be/2yhukWVv7NQ

https://youtu.be/2yhukWVv7NQ

Boyan Silyavski
03-02-2016, 05:48 PM
Dean thanks for your good words
As more than a year has passed since my last attemp of rails intalation, today i go on
I had some questions that i wrote 1,5 year ago (30-11-2014 #171).
I repeat them in order to understand what level of accuracy i have to achieve

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#1 ( very important to know what I am trying for )
When you measure the flatness of a beam ( or epoxy surface) against a straight edge, what is the acceptable tolerance-gap ( so we assume the surface is straight) . I use light to understand whether my top beams attach the straight edge. The touching points can be easily seen. But at other points althought i can see that there is no touch ( light passes through) , the 0,02mm Gap Filler cant pass through the gap. So what is the critical gap ? the light passing test ( that is less than 0,02mm ) or the 0,02mm gap filler test?

#2
When someone use the solution with the adjustable top beams ( without epoxy) or the shimming method how does he succeed to have the top rails in the same plane. How does he know when the two rails ( left and right ) are in the same plane?

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Hiwin maual (among others) has this table that says ( if i read right the table) that the height H of a rail has a range +- 0.1 mm for normal accuracy rails
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17482
Thanks for your time
Vagelis

#1
For me its very simple. Depends on table size. For under 1m everything more than 0.05 anywhere is unacceptable. For bigger tables 0.1 deviation on height is the limit. So hiwin is right.
Now i want to tell you that it took me a week to mount my 2 long rails . I mounted them and dismounted them 5 times, not counting the 3 pours of epoxy. So at thend depends what you will use the machine for.

My standard is very simple. if i can notice a gap with naked eye, its unacceptable. Be it 1m or 10 meters table.


#2
yeah, thats why i dont like this method. Ask Dean. But it should be possible if you of course have straight edge that can lay on top of both of them at the same time. i doubt though you could achieve same precision as with epoxy

ba99297
03-02-2016, 06:36 PM
Boyan thanks for your answer.

#1
For me its very simple. Depends on table size. For under 1m everything more than 0.05 anywhere is unacceptable. For bigger tables 0.1 deviation on height is the limit. So hiwin is right.

I guess when you measure in mm, so when you say 0.05 you mean 0,05mm and when you say 0.1 you mean 0.1mm right?

So even if i can see light pass between the rail and the straight edge but the 0,02mm filler strip can’t pass through the gap you think is OK for a 1800mm long table?
Really after epoxy cure, when you attach the straight edge on the epoxy surface is there any gap between the epoxy and the straight edge? The epoxy surface is perfectly flat against the straight edge? If the answer is YES i have an idea here (http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/9511-DIY-straight-edge-with-Epoxy-aluminum-profile-Will-it-work?p=76521)

http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/9511-DIY-straight-edge-with-Epoxy-aluminum-profile-Will-it-work?p=76521

Vagelis

Boyan Silyavski
04-02-2016, 03:26 AM
Yes, i meant in mm. But to tell you the truth i found that the hardest thing is to avoid for dust not to get trapped in between when mounting, cause that could f%%ck all previously achieved precision. When i lay the rails i lay the edge first and scrap them against the epoxy so no dust goes trapped there. And there is a lot of particles of it even in a new workshop :-)

My straight edge was perfectly flat against he epoxy when i was happy with the result. But even in my best result, at one end of the bed under one of the rails there was need to shim / if you read the whole thread about my machine you will remember that i was experimenting a lot with the epoxy pour, so i found the way to do it properly/

So yes, to your idea about the DIY epoxy straight edge, but remember the main thing i discovered when pouring 3m rails, i needed to over extend the epoxy both sides 25cm/?? read the thread again but make it so to be on the safe side/ so it shrinks there, after that just cut it to the size of the profile.Similar to what you will do with the meniscus.

JAZZCNC
04-02-2016, 03:19 PM
#2 i doubt though you could achieve same precision as with epoxy

So when leveling across the planes, not the Rail length I mean planer level, what precision do you get with Epoxy then Boyan.? . . . . . If you can quote me figures then how are you measuring it.?

Boyan Silyavski
05-02-2016, 09:52 AM
So when leveling across the planes, not the Rail length I mean planer level, what precision do you get with Epoxy then Boyan.? . . . . . If you can quote me figures then how are you measuring it.?


I was writing it down and knew you would say something :-)

Very soon i will be able to answer to you question with numbers, when i move my machine against the straight edge.


But what i was saying is: its almost impossible for you to level better the rails than the gravity levels the epoxy, speaking about them being in the same horizontal plane. measurable or not - its a fact. For me at least.

How do i know that? It was very difficult for me to straighten them left right and square them, with a helper, i could only imagine the nightmare of making them horizontal too at the same time. The thing is- i dont lie to my self, i am very sincere person and i know when i can not do truly properly something. So i am not pretending. fact is that i am also very precise and detailed person. With 2 words- if i could not do it 95% of people will not do it at all. Not to speak that how many people at the forum have 2m straight edge.

I know you have long edge, i know you do it that way, but dont compare your expertise to the people learning how to do a thing.I will not encourage any body do it that way, because IMO its the more difficult way. So what i am saying- epoxy is the way for me , not detachable sides.

JAZZCNC
05-02-2016, 11:59 AM
I know you have long edge, i know you do it that way, but dont compare your expertise to the people learning how to do a thing.I will not encourage any body do it that way, because IMO its the more difficult way. So what i am saying- epoxy is the way for me , not detachable sides.

Boyan I don't have a problem with Epoxy Method and I use my self because it's quick and accurate enough for any wood router. I do have problem with people quoteing accuracy and tolerences they can't possibly measure or verify. You do this and I feel it's wrong because your guessing and giving people the wrong idea. Your input to Forum is great and appreciated by many, me included and please don't take offence. But personaly it irratates me to see figures quoted, not just by you but also others that can't be verified or should say they don't have the means to verify.

The simple fact is unless you can have the base Surfaced in one go on machine then your accurecy is limited to the tools and care you take. Unless you can measure from Accurate surface plate or CMM machine to measure tolerences then your purely guessing or assuming tolerences.

Over building and Fantasy tolerences are not required for any router designed for mostly for wood. Also if machine this size is to be used for cutting aluminium then again the tolerences needed are still low because it will be mostly limited to and probably used mostly for profile cutting and maybe the odd pocket which most decently strong routers can manage.
It can't and will not have the tolerences needed for anything more challenging like Mould making in aluminium or harder materials without being done properly surfaced. Also at this size it would need to be substantialy stronger to be any good and last any length of time if used in more industrial way.!

Just because you can cut steel with a machine built at DIY level doesn't mean it does it very well or can do it for long.!! . . . . . To think otherwsie is foolish.!


People need to be realistic and stop quoting tolerences and accuracys they can't possible verify.! They also need to calm down and realise over building isn't clever or wise it's mostly just wasted money for the type of work they do with the machine. It also often compromises the machine if they don't match other components to there over built frames whcih they rarely do.!!

Jonathan
05-02-2016, 01:54 PM
Plenty of readings regarding the accuracy in my build log (http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/6484-A-sufficiently-strong-machine?p=48616#post48616).

Of course that says nothing about what might happen in the months after pouring, if the frame isn't stress relieved...

JAZZCNC
05-02-2016, 03:02 PM
Plenty of readings regarding the accuracy in my build log (http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/6484-A-sufficiently-strong-machine?p=48616#post48616).

Of course that says nothing about what might happen in the months after pouring, if the frame isn't stress relieved...

Bit of difference in size Jonathan it's 2x width and 3 x length.!!

ba99297
07-02-2016, 12:46 PM
Thanks everybody for your answers
Reading all these useful comments I want to say that I this machine won’t be used to achieve magic tolerances. As Dean said
“…router designed for mostly for wood……… is to be used for cutting aluminum then again the tolerances needed are still low because it will be mostly limited to and probably used mostly for profile cutting”

To be honest I don’t know yet what exactly I am going to use the machine for. I just build a “weapon for hunting” I have never been in the “forest” before with that kind of automated “weapons”. Till now I hunt with catapult (traditional handy tools).
I get involved with many kinds of materials ( wood, steel, alloy) and like to mix them in my construction. That is why the machine is a middle solution (all around machine). That of course means that when you earn in one level you will miss in another level. I think an all purpose machine is impossible to be build as there are parameters opposite each other ( accuracy vs size, stiffness vs light weight and all these vs cost ). The main principal that I try to achieve ( not only in cnc construction but also in my way of life ) is to have the best value for money. So I am trying to achieve the better result with the means and the efforts that I have.
The added value of course at this attempt is your help, even your well disposed disagreements that make me understand things better. In my country we use to say that “sciolism is worst than ignorance”. Many times here in mycncuk I realized that I had sciolism for many aspects that had to do with constructions. Many myths in my mind have been basted especially with Deans help who is something more than an “auto-answer machine” . I could not not mention Jonathans help especially through his Servo sizing software and his inspired constructions, and also I cant forget that the main idea for my machine frame, come out from Syliavskis thread. And all the others that these last months participate to encourage me, correct me, and generally help go one step beyond. I know that I am not too fast in making steps, but I also know that ( for me ) the most important is to make small steps than trivially jumps. This attempt for me is like a trip. I prefer to make the “trip” with a slow train looking “out of the window” , more than ride a fast car and reach the end some days earlier. A Greek poem describes it better. Whoever want to read it (in English ) can find it here
http://www.cavafy.com/poems/content.asp?cat=1&id=74
Thanks for your time

JAZZCNC
07-02-2016, 02:26 PM
In my country we use to say that ďsciolism is worst than ignoranceĒ.

"Sciolism" that's got to be word of the Day Vagelis. (I had to look it up) . . . . In my part of the country it would be called " Talking Bullshit " and yes lots of Sciolism goes on in Forums. . :devilish:

ba99297
07-02-2016, 02:47 PM
Dean you know more than anyone that my English are not good
Often i use Google translation


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Even (as other say) i use the Greek language very good, i cant say the same about English
So i have no tension to show that i know and use rare words, i just try to find the appropriate word and the only "friend" here is Google. For me was the first time I saw this word (sciolism)
To be more specific the word in Greece is "ημιμάθεια" that come from the words "ημι"=half + "μάθηση"=knowledge, so you could say that "ημιμάθεια"=half knowledge of a subject, and we use that word for people who don’t have a full knowledge of a subject, they know only some aspects of the subject and in the same time they talk as they know everything about it.. Other Greeks that follows the thread I think they know what I mean.

JAZZCNC
07-02-2016, 03:35 PM
[FONT="]Dean you know more than anyone that my English are not good

Vagelis your English my friend is better than mine and I know Zero Greek so your way in front.!!

ba99297
07-02-2016, 04:33 PM
Vagelis your English my friend is better than mine and I know Zero Greek so your way in front.!!

Google gives me two words
#1 Humble
#2 Modest
both words with the first letter capital
You choose which one I should use to characterize you
Lets change ęchannelĽ. For a moment I thought that we are in a literary forumÖ

ba99297
22-04-2016, 10:36 PM
It has been more than 1 1/2 year that i did any progress
Many issues delay and postpone my work
So it is time to restart
One of the big problems that i had was the steel flatness
I had to have them milled. i didnt have the means to do it (not a mill neather a lathe)
After some research i enter a machinery shop. He told me "i don’t have the means to do what you want, but i know someone not professional who can do what you want"
So i meet Kosta. A 65 years old person who is not a professional machinist. He loves machining but as he has another job, he works only Saturdays as a hobby. I cant describe what i saw. The working place was clear as a surgery. No sign of steel chip. The man is perfectionist. Everything more than 2-3/100mm is not acceptable. I think he did better job than a pro. He loves machining.
Conclusion he help me by milling the pieces and he didn’t want to take any money
The x axis plates where zero level on a surface grinder.
This is the result


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Also the Gantry plate need to be milled both sides
As his surface grinder (500X200) wasn’t that big he work the piece on the milling machine


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Z axis also need to be milled both sides
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Last piece the gantry
1180 mm long 280mm wide. Kostas didn't have such big milling table
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So i ask a friend of mine who is wood machine constructor to mill the gantry. I went today. He had a 6000mmX1000mm planer ( i don’t know if my word is correct )
He told me that next Thusday it will be ready. I will attach photos of the big machine
Mean while i work on leveling the X axis. It is the point where i stop 1 1/2 year ago
I want to avoid using epoxy. Specially now that i have the x axis plates perfectly milled so i could easier check level between rails
Very painful job. It is very important to find the higher spot and start from that spot, else you have to go on from the beginning


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I will keep you informed
Thanks for your time
Feel alive now that i restart

Lee Roberts
23-04-2016, 01:28 AM
Looking like a great machine, keep going and good luck !

.Me

Davek0974
23-04-2016, 09:22 AM
Loads of steel going in, nice:)

Kostas looks like a perfectionist, hard to find in a commercial shop when time is money.

ba99297
01-05-2016, 08:01 PM
Hi every body
Wednesday morning I went to a friend of mine who is a wood processing machine constructor, one of the few that manage to survive in the Greek economic environment.

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http://www.nikolaidismachines.com/index.php?lang=el

Previous week I gave him my cnc gantry in order to put it in the planer (a 6 metres one), in order to mill it and make a datum surface for the the hiwin rails.

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It is possible that the frame (1900mmX1200mm) can be handled from that planer so i have it milled for the x axis rails

This is the Result
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Dial indicator has been used for zeroing the piece
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After milling the gantry I had to do the drilling and taping
My friend in order to help put the gantry in a drilling and taping mill (the blue color machine 3-4 meters long) so that I could have the threading in a more precise way (other than drilling and taping with hand). This was one of my big nightmares ( how to drill and tap nearly 40 holes on 14mm steel).
He took me no money for that job. I would like to thank him.
First the machine spot the holes
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Then Drill and tap
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Even after milling the surface is not 100% flat against straight edge
I wouldn’t expect zero level accuracy from a 6 meters long machine
When i put the straight edge against the surface, i can see the light pass through but the 0,02mm filler cant pass . So we are talking aboutan error smaller than 0,02mm.
In order to get the best result i will shim the y axis rails. I remember Deans' word many times. How right he is ? He told me " Vagelis even after epoxy method or milling, it is possible that shims will be need in some spots". I don’t want to use the epoxy method, as i think that shimming is more challenging and of course more difficult.
I will be glad to hear every comment

Here is a video of that day
https://youtu.be/4VUnQhaaJIE

Vagelis

ba99297
04-05-2016, 12:02 AM
Some small progress
Last days I have been working on the gantry
As I said even if the gantry has be milled in a six meters planer, there were some small errors that could be corrected with a couple of aluminum foil.
I don’t know if everybody who had some part milled or use the epoxy method has a true flat surface or i am the only one
Even if the error wasn’t so big, i decided to be as accurate as i can with the means that i have (a 1200mm straight edge) and make the rail as flat as possible. I decide to use aluminum foil shims. i have one basic principle in my construction. As this is my first build i want to make secure steps with so that it won’t be needed to come back again. I think that every small error become large as the progress is going on. That is why I use shims even if i had the gantry milled. To be honest the most useful work after having the gantry milled, wasn’t the leveling process but the milling and taping process.

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The planer mill 3mm so that there is a datum face for the master rail
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The other rail will be adjusted for paralelsim by following the master
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I put the rails temporary to get an idea about how it will look like
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After shimming the master rail i tighten it to the datum face
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Some pictures from the z axis that follows
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Tommorrow i will start adjusting the slave rail according the master

Vagelis

JAZZCNC
04-05-2016, 12:21 AM
Looking good Vagelis keep it moving along.. .:toot:

komatias
05-05-2016, 11:24 AM
Pwpw Vaggeli, I had no idea there were such factories in mainland Greece. Do you know if they recondition machines too, or just make their own?

ba99297
06-05-2016, 10:06 PM
Yes there were such factories but very few.
I think my friend should be one of the last constructor at that scale here in Macedonia-Greece who manage to survive
As you mention they recondition second hand machines.

ba99297
07-05-2016, 11:55 PM
Hi
As I have told I had my gantry milled on a 6 meter planer
The result wasn’t perfect so I had to shim the rails(at some spots) in order to be straight( no light pass) against straight edge.
I had the last three days trying to shim the rails and I think that the result is acceptable
After shimming I try to attach the y axis steel plate (that moves left right)
My question is how tight should be moved. I know that the hiwin carriages have some preload in order to be more accurate.
I made some tests
I use a zero flat ( from surface grinder) steel plate that will be used for my x axis.
I connect to this plate two carriages and put it on the y axis rails
By using a kitchen scale I measure 700gr force for the plate to move
I did the same with the y axis plate( that has been milled in a mill and it is nearly 3 times havier). It needs 2,7 kgr force to move it.
I made a video that show the two plates
First I move the x axis plate (that will be used in x axis), and then the y axis plate
I would like to ask if what you see and what you hear is normal for hiwin carriages
Also if there is any suggestion for grease for the hiwin carriages

P.S amplify your headspeakers
Here is the video

https://youtu.be/yQ5P9gRsEY0


Thanks for your time
Vagelis

Davek0974
08-05-2016, 09:16 AM
That sounds a little dry - do they have any grease in the carriages??

2.7kg also sounds tight - if this is a truck on two parallel rails, i would slacken the screws on one rail, fit the carriage/plate etc and the gently tighten the screws as you slide the carriage assembly along. Also the same for the screws holding the carriages to the plate - slacken and tighten them with the assembly in position. This allows all alignment stresses to be released hopefully.

Still sounds like it needs grease though, my HiWin stuff was very quiet.

ba99297
08-05-2016, 02:00 PM
That sounds a little dry - do they have any grease in the carriages??

2.7kg also sounds tight - if this is a truck on two parallel rails, i would slacken the screws on one rail, fit the carriage/plate etc and the gently tighten the screws as you slide the carriage assembly along. Also the same for the screws holding the carriages to the plate - slacken and tighten them with the assembly in position. This allows all alignment stresses to be released hopefully.

Still sounds like it needs grease though, my HiWin stuff was very quiet.

Yes you are correct, I haven’t put any grease yet
Is there any special type of grease for these carriages, or a general purpose grease can do the job?

Lee Roberts
08-05-2016, 02:29 PM
Yes you are correct, I havenít put any grease yet
Is there any special type of grease for these carriages, or a general purpose grease can do the job?

A general purpose Lithium 2 grease will do just fine:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160506/fcae3c9fe4b2452e49ac6e3ae9dd03e0.jpg


A Premium quality mineral oil, lithium thickened lubricating grease suitable for general purpose applications in plain and anti-friction bearings.

Conforms to leading bearing manufacturers specifications for general purpose industrial and automotive grease.

.Me

ba99297
06-01-2017, 11:00 PM
Hello everybody and happy new year
I reastart my project that has been stoped for more than 6 months
I finally epoxy level X axis and i will do the same with the y axis (the gantry) as the milling of the gantry wasnt as good as i expected
I will apply two layers of epoxy 4mm each.

Many off you may wonder why i go with two layers of 4mm instead of one layer 5mm.
To be honest this is the second try of epoxy level the gantry
The first try went wrong
It wasnít the resign as i had no problem with the x axis leveling
The reason off the first fail was this

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After having the gantry milled there was a 3mm groove for the master rail.
At the first epoxy try the groove had been covered with epoxy so the epoxy had 5mm thickness above the groove and 2mm thickness next to the grove. i donít know if i am understood.
So at the second try i choose to cast two layers. The first one will cover the groove and cover the 3mm gap and the second one will be layed on a flat surface.
Today morning i start with the first layer
First i put the gantry lay on the x axis blocks as x axis is perfectly leveled after the epoxy method


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I zero my dial gauge in order to level the gantry parallel to X axis.
The 1.9 degrees tilt that the gauge show is a permanent error after an accident


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In order to achieve perfect level tuning i use some screws as jacks
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I knew that i couldnt have zero level at every point of the gantry as the gantry is not true flat. I was trying for an average zero level.
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All the previous night i use an electric heater to rise the temperature to 20-21 celcious
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Today morning i start creating the dome
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I use both mdf and foam
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Here is the epoxy i use

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More than 10 hours working time
300 mpas viscosity
Pot life 29 hours (70 ml at 23c)
and here is the data sheet
http://www.resoltech.com/IMG/pdf/DS_-_WWA_-_WWB4_-_21.07.2016.pdf

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Price 36 euros
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Thanks for your time
Will be glad to read your comments

Vagelis

ba99297
09-01-2017, 12:24 AM
48 hours at 20 co after casting the first epoxy layer (4mm thick) is sticky and starts hardening.
Today morning 8-1-2017 I apply the second layer (also 4mm thick)
Things seem to be ok.
The epoxy is transparent and clear as glass
After full curing I will upload photos.
Mean while (until the epoxy hardens) I will start working on Z axis

Vagelis

Clive S
09-01-2017, 09:08 AM
Make sure you let it cure for at least 10 days if you have made a sample mould then when you try and bend the epoxy it should snap like glass and not bend.

Not sure why you need 8mm thick?

ba99297
09-01-2017, 06:20 PM
Not sure why you need 8mm thick?
Thanks for your answer Clive
I know that 5mm thick is enough but as i said,"...After having the gantry milled (a process that went wrong) there was a 3mm deep groove for the master rail.
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At the first epoxy try the groove had been covered with epoxy so the epoxy had 5mm thickness above the groove and 2mm thickness next to the grove. So this uneven surface may cause the failure of the first try. That is why I decided to go with two layers casts. The first one will cover the big error so that the second one will do the level job better. I don’t remember where, but I had read that in some way the epoxy follows the initial surface and corrects a big part of the surface error, but not all the error.
That is why i choose to cast two layers (4mm each).

Clive S
09-01-2017, 06:33 PM
Sorry I did not read your previous post properly. I take it that you are using the epoxy to level two rails up if so you need a moat between them
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ba99297
09-01-2017, 08:06 PM
if so you need a moat between them
If you see the photos that i upload, i already have made two moats, at the edges of the gantry
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They are the white extensions left and right of the gantry
It is like a cyrcle. All the epoxy surface (underneath the rails and the moats) are 50mm wide
Thanks Clive