View Full Version : bit of advice needed for first mill

23-01-2014, 07:48 PM
Hello Everyone

Looking to buy a mill, will be used to drill small holes in jewelry etc for the wife but with a view to doing a diy cnc conversion in the future.
Currently looking at these ones...

SIEG Super X1LP Hi-Torque Mill - Arc Euro Trade (http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Milling-Machines/SIEG-Super-X1LP-Mill/SIEG-Super-X1LP-Mill)

SIEG Super X1L Mill - Arc Euro Trade (http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Milling-Machines/Model-Super-X1L-Mill)

SIEG Super X2P HiTorque Mill - Arc Euro Trade (http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Milling-Machines/Model-Super-X2-Plus-Mill/SIEG-Super-X2P-HiTorque-Mill)

can anyone advise on which one to go for? or a suitable alternative.
i see the super x1lp seems to be the newest with a belt drive.. but the super x2 is more powerful. is the x2 same as axminsters x2 just rebadged?


23-01-2014, 11:41 PM
Personally, I'd say X2 as it's more capable without being overly big for delicate work.

And check out Hoss's huge thread over on cnczone for pretty much everything you'd need to know to CNC a X2- X2 cnc finished for now maybe (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/benchtop_machines/30385-x2_computer-numeric-control_finished_now_maybe.html)

24-01-2014, 12:13 AM
Thanks :)
I also notice they sell 3 different chuck versions,
r8 metric, mt3 metric and mt3 imperial. What is this and what is most desired?


24-01-2014, 12:35 AM
There's only two chuck versions, R8, and MT3.
The imperial/metric refers to the leadscrews/dials.

R8 has the benefit it should be self releasing once you slacken the drawbar, whereas MT needs a hit with a hammer to release it. R8 is traditionally more an American thing (Bridgeports used it), whereas MT is more a British thing (although british milling machines usually used a proper toolholding taper in the form of a INT/BT taper, with MT being used on drills/smaller milling machines).

For hobby use, there's not really any major difference between them, and if you've not already got any tooling, I can't think of any reason to specifically use one or the other on a machine that size.
If it was a larger manual machine, I'd say MT as it gives the option of using MT drills (more common for anything above 1/2" or 13mm), however a X2 will struggle with drills above that size in steel, so you may prefer the convience of self releasing tools.

24-01-2014, 12:44 AM
Many thanks for the great explanation, I did have a google but didn't get to far, we'll explained. :)

24-01-2014, 08:21 AM
Whatever taper you go with you'll have the option to add collet chuck - ER Milling Collet Chucks - Arc Euro Trade (http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Milling-Collet-Chucks)
I haven't needed to remove the ER32 collet chuck on my manual mill for several weeks.
Or you could add a quick release system if you want it, my CNC has a Coventry Easy Change - Easy Change (Coventry Toolholders) System | Coventry Toolholders - Standard and Bespoke Tooling Systems (http://www.coveng.co.uk/group/coventry-toolholders/products/toolholders-for-manual-machines/easy-change.html)
The adaptor and holders are expensive but it will save you time on jobs with several tool changes.
Other toolholding options are available ;-)

24-01-2014, 09:12 AM
Some alternatives ?

Milling & Drilling machines (http://www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/Milling_Machine.html)
Milling Machines - Milling - Metal Working | Axminster.co.uk (http://www.axminster.co.uk/metal-working/milling/milling-machines)

24-01-2014, 10:22 AM
I've had a baby vertical mill for many years but recently bought what might be considered a large-ish hobby machine. The first had Morse 2, and the second R8 which I chose in preference to Morse 3. Based on my experience, Morse tapers are great for drills with axial loads, but you need to crank up the drawbar somewhat to take milling side loads. That means that the drawbar needs quite a thump to release the taper. R8 releases much more easily which is great if you are swapping tools. I have an ER32 collet chuck and I know that some people reckon they are great for drills as well but I don't find them too good for smaller sizes so swap to a 16mm keyless drill chuck instead. Slacken the drawbar and at worst a slight tap of the spanner shank on the top and the tool holder drops into your hand. Just seems so much less brutal, and as I would have needed to retool with Morse 3 anyway, no more expensive. And there's quite a lot of second-hand R8 tooling about. I would do the same again in an instant.

26-01-2014, 08:38 PM
Thanks everyone for the advice, much appreciated!

so pretty certain I will go with a SIEG Super X2P HiTorque Mill, just have to wait until back in stock....

If you were starting a fresh (with a mind to eventually convert to cnc) would you go r8 or mt3?

there was an Axminster version forsake on eBay at an ok price but it had a tilting column and I believe I'd be better of with the sturdier non tilt fixed column.

cheers james

06-04-2014, 10:59 PM
R8 is better. Holds like b********y, and fits flush with end of spindle so you get an extra 25mm or so working height. Also the collets don't get stuck.