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View Full Version : Making a part on hobby CNC miller



Dean jeffery
04-06-2014, 09:58 AM
I will be buying a hobby sized machine, but would it be possible to make this part on such a machine.

Denford triacs
Or
Emco 55 size, if I can't find 1 then would have to be syil 4X plus.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/zy6unyha.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/4avuzapu.jpg

Now the size from top to bottom are

10mm dia 8mm across flats

10mm dia x 30mm long Stepped to 12mm x 18 long Stepped 20.5 x3 long.
Then the larger dia of 57mm x 23.5

Turn it round I then have 54mm bore 21 deep, this is a Ti clutch bell for an Rc car.

I made the 1 above on a manual lathe, I understand a lathe would be best for making this but would this be pos on CNC miller.

Thanks

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Wal
04-06-2014, 12:10 PM
>but would this be pos on CNC miller.

No reason why not, but you'd be getting into jigs and having to think seriously about some work-holding issues.

If I only had one to make (in an emergency) then I'd give it a go. It does seem like the long-winded way to go about it - but that could as well be my lack of knowledge/experience...

Wal.

Jonathan
04-06-2014, 12:22 PM
Turn it round I then have 54mm bore 21 deep, this is a Ti clutch bell for an Rc car.

I made the 1 above on a manual lathe, I understand a lathe would be best for making this but would this be pos on CNC miller.

From titanium, I think you'd be asking for trouble. If the part was smaller and a sensible material then you could consider using the mill as a lathe, like I did here:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wGDMSiZpyg

... but it seems a bit OTT just to avoid a lathe?

Dean jeffery
04-06-2014, 12:55 PM
Holding should be no problem, bored 3 jaw chuck machine the shaft end, turn over machine the rest. But may flex and want to shove it over or pull it out.
Think I'm asking to much TBH just hoped somebody has done something simlar with success.

I made just 1 of these on the lathe for personal use, only 1 off in the world made from Ti, also made a few of these from Ti again nobody has Ti versions.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/epery2a8.jpg

1 off the above has been made from alloy, but sold the lathe and now people are wanting Ti versions.

The carriers above look like this when done.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/nere2esu.jpg


The clutch bell

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/uva8eja8.jpg





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Wal
04-06-2014, 01:06 PM
Lovely work man.

Wal.

Dean jeffery
04-06-2014, 01:13 PM
Lovely work man.

Wal.


Cheers
But now abit stuck on what route to take, if access was not an issue i would simply buy a cnc lathe and miller. But limited to just 790mm down the side of my house, so needs a small lathe and miller.

Just thought i would buy a lathe, machine what i wanted (needed) then sell on, not nothing people would want them when complete.

irving2008
05-06-2014, 02:00 AM
delete please...

Dean jeffery
05-06-2014, 03:02 AM
delete please...

Delete what??

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irving2008
05-06-2014, 03:07 AM
The post I made in error!

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Dean jeffery
05-06-2014, 03:08 AM
The post I made in error!

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

OK thought I'd posted something wrong

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Dean jeffery
08-06-2014, 11:50 AM
OK so now I have another question reguarding hobby type machines.

Limited in space so the type of machines I have been looking at are.
Denford Triac, boxford and emco 55 for milling, was also looking at the syil/ sieg 3 has last resort. Turning would need to machine 70mm dia stock material size would be 75 pos 80 dia. So not sure what CNC lathe would fit the bill, both need to hold a tolerance of 0.05 max.

Now how hard would it be to machine this on the said machines, the turning was done on a manual myford ML7 milling was done at work so not really an option to mill these again.

But would like to machine these for production, not a massive production run but not a 1 off.

Turned on ML7

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/08/emymyma4.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/08/upy4ezet.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/08/5emu3u5y.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/08/ydeqy4e5.jpg

Milled at work well drilled on PCD

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/08/e4yry6y7.jpg

Milled the ninja star looking things

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/08/abahyju4.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/08/y2uqupa9.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/08/pydu7yju.jpg

So would like options on the best type hobby machines to fit the bill please, also would be a new user to cad/cam mach3 or what ever is the best to machine the 3d part.

Thanks

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GEOFFREY
08-06-2014, 12:11 PM
Very impressive. I never could have turned that on my old Myford. Well done . G.

Dean jeffery
08-06-2014, 01:12 PM
Very impressive. I never could have turned that on my old Myford. Well done . G.

Cheers Geoffrey

Doing them manually just take a load more time, cut check cut ckeck untill you have what you want.

The only real time was making the bearing size, because if this was over size then it's scrap and not an option. The rest would have a plus and minus of a thou so not to bad, and that is just what I planned on getting them. +/- of 0.05 would be fine.

Still leaves me with no options on what CNC's to buy for making these though.



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JAZZCNC
08-06-2014, 07:17 PM
So would like options on the best type hobby machines to fit the bill please, also would be a new user to cad/cam mach3 or what ever is the best to machine the 3d part.

Hold on here.!! . . . . Your saying your a new user to Cad and you drew that Ninja Star looking thing which aint a simple part for beginner and then Milled it manually.? If so then well done. You certainly won't have any trouble working a CNC machine. Unfortunatly I can't help with best machine.

Dean jeffery
08-06-2014, 07:32 PM
Hold on here.!! . . . . Your saying your a new user to Cad and you drew that Ninja Star looking thing which aint a simple part for beginner and then Milled it manually.? If so then well done. You certainly won't have any trouble working a CNC machine. Unfortunatly I can't help with best machine.

No lol I will explain but was a replie to Geoffrey.

The part was manually machined on a myford ML7 this is an old english made lathe, mine was 65 years old.

Then I asked the programmer at work to make it look like this but better, IE needs to be thinner to lose some weight but look good at the same time.

The alloy 1 weighs 66 gram Titanium 68.5g

The original alloy part looks like this

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/09/ry5uvena.jpg

So the ninja type is what he came up with, the style, shape and programme was not me.
The only thing I did was machine it, hence saying milled at work. But clearly was CNC lol, no manual millers at work.

I can do basic programming on both lathes and millers, but 3d is well out of my league.

Never seen anything cad/cam only on watching tube vids over the last view weeks.

If space was not an issue it would be a simple choice to make, but limited in space limits the machine needed.

Also how easy would it be to replicate that drawing above, for me new user, or for anybody who knows what they are doing lol.

Thanks



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JAZZCNC
08-06-2014, 09:19 PM
Also how easy would it be to replicate that drawing above, for me new user, or for anybody who knows what they are doing lol.

Well for a new user then probably bit of challenge but for someone used to Cad then no problem as you can see with the picture below which i've just knocked up in less than 15mins from your pics and obviously would have been quicker if I had dimensions to work from. Creating tool paths would be another 10-15mins.
12549
Now obviously I'm quite experienced and using Solid works which is highend software and really this is the problem most new users have.? Software makes all the difference and having software that's taylored to the type of work your doing really helps. For instance ArtCam could be used to create the 3D toolpaths for this part but it's more woodworking based so the 3D toolpaths it provides will not be optimal. Where has Solid CAM which again is highend CAM software gives much more options regards 3D toolpaths.
Now both these programs are Highend in there own fields so it highlights why having software suited the type of parts your making will help. When you get to the lower end cheaper software you have Even less options regards 3D toolpaths so it becomes more important to find one that suits the type of work your doing.

Hope this helps.

Dean jeffery
08-06-2014, 09:34 PM
Cheers for that yes it does help, means I've no chance of doing it lol.
But around half hr is not a lot of time, clearly this is the most technical part 3d wise I would need to make it's only for RC use.
They do sell alloy diff cases that would need 3d but would be easy than above.
Would also need editing but dint want to ask, the arms would look better if they was smoothed out into the dia.

Size of the stock could be given, the outa dia was 68mm but has left rads on the out side of the bolt holes. But at the time this was not a problem looking at the alloy version, but if I was to make these again then the dia would need to be 69.5 then I could get a full cycle around the bolt hole and would look evan better.

Thanks for the info

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Dean jeffery
09-06-2014, 01:58 PM
JAZZCNC

Just looked at the solid cam software, for DIY hobby use this is way out of my league just on price. Then I beleave you have to pay a subscription on a yearly basis, any other options that's with in reach for what I need it to do.

Cheers



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JAZZCNC
09-06-2014, 03:30 PM
Just looked at the solid cam software, for DIY hobby use this is way out of my league just on price. Then I beleave you have to pay a subscription on a yearly basis, any other options that's with in reach for what I need it to do.

Yes unfortunatly I know and wasn't suggesting you used SolidCam the point I was trying to make was the quality of the software you use greatly impacts how is or hard it is to make parts. Also choosing software which is aimed towards the type of work your mainly doing helps as they have toolpath stratergies more suited with larger range of options. This is Esp true with 3D software.
Unfortunatly there is no one software that does all great. If mostly 3D work then Deskproto is about the best IMO at hobby level thou it lacks at 2D. Cam Bam is another ok run of the mill software. Then you have the Vectric and Delcam offerings but they tend to be leaning towards wood side with cutting stratergies more suited to that type of work. Dolphin Cam and MeshCam are also Ok softwares in the Mid price range but really your going to have to do some research and look around looking at will suit your needs best.

Dean jeffery
09-06-2014, 03:48 PM
OK thanks I will do some researching

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