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SB463
26-06-2014, 11:41 AM
Good morning everybody,

I am looking for a routing tool that when cutting doesn't leave a lot of burr.

We're trying to minimize our process of cutting 2mm into a box in order to fit a connector.

Here is what we are currently dealing with:

12653

I'd like a suggestion from this site here: http://www.cutwelrouting.co.uk/

Thank you very much,

It's good to be here.

Jordan

Lee Roberts
26-06-2014, 12:03 PM
Humm,

Do you currently go to depth and then move along the length of the cut (cutting as you go), sweep across the length of the cut or something else?

.Me

SB463
26-06-2014, 12:07 PM
Yes, that exactly.

The boxes come to us precut, but to fit our connector we need to shave off another 2mm.

Thanks

Lee Roberts
26-06-2014, 12:38 PM
Yes, that exactly.

The boxes come to us precut, but to fit our connector we need to shave off another 2mm.

Thanks

Ok, I’m wondering if you may get a better result sweeping from outside the box to inside and then from inside to outside.

At the moment it looks as though the material is being pushed away from the cutter before it gets a chance to cut it and so leaving that flap of a burr along the length of the cut. If you sweep left to right, right to left across the length of the cut, it may not produce the burr along the length but generate a burr on the proceeding material, but that won’t matter because the next cut will remove that material anyway, possibly leaving you with only a flap of a burr at the start and finish of the cut.

Granted each cut may take a little longer to do but, it may just mean a slightly snugger fit for the connector and if it is to snug that the connector doesn’t quite “fit” right, just extend the length of the cut to compensate the extra burrs at each end, hopefully leaving no requirement to de burr.

I’m assuming that this is being done via cnc of course and so you would basically need to change the tool paths...Just a thought you may like to try before buying a new cutter.

.Me

SB463
26-06-2014, 12:54 PM
Excellent, I shall give this a try and report back.

Thank you very much.

Lee Roberts
26-06-2014, 01:04 PM
No problem I hope it works for you, try and use a cutter with more flutes as well, this may break up the chips and burrs more frequently and so help to leave less of a burr.

.Me

Clive S
26-06-2014, 01:20 PM
Good morning everybody,

I am looking for a routing tool that when cutting doesn't leave a lot of burr.

We're trying to minimize our process of cutting 2mm into a box in order to fit a connector.

Here is what we are currently dealing with:

12653

I'd like a suggestion from this site here: http://www.cutwelrouting.co.uk/

Thank you very much,

It's good to be here.

Jordan

It might help if you state what cutter size, flutes feeds and speeds you are using now.

to me it look like you are melting it. ..Clive

SB463
26-06-2014, 01:34 PM
No problem I hope it works for you, try and use a cutter with more flutes as well, this may break up the chips and burrs more frequently and so help to leave less of a burr.

.Me

Well I gave it a try but it didn't turn out well but that may be due to the speed.


It might help if you state what cutter size, flutes feeds and speeds you are using now.

to me it look like you are melting it. ..Clive

Let me add that my experience with all this is minimal, I've been dropped with the task now that the operator has left.

But here is the information you need:

Feedrate: 2200mm/min
Speed: 2000rpm
Cutter: 6mm Endmill with 2 flutes.

Thanks,

Jordan

Lee Roberts
26-06-2014, 02:21 PM
Well I gave it a try but it didn't turn out well but that may be due to the speed. Let me add that my experience with all this is minimal, I've been dropped with the task now that the operator has left.

That's a shame, sorry about that.

My next question was going to be "what speeds and feeds are you using", as pointed out by Clive, it does look like its pushing rather than cutting, I would definitely try slowing the feed down, typically the number of flutes match the number of teeth on the cutter (not always though), if you don’t have a cutter with more teeth on it try raising the rpm as well (you may not need more teeth if you get them there quicker instead), experiment with the above until you find the happy medium.

.Me

Boyan Silyavski
26-06-2014, 02:43 PM
What is the name of the plastic exactly that are you trying to cut???

That makes a BIG difference. feed and speed i mean.


Why these expensive bits. I can 100% recommend you these http://www.ebay.es/itm/1-4-3-FLUTE-CARBIDE-ENDMILLS-0-HELIX-FOR-PLASTIC-and-WOOD-Kyocera-Microtool-/150700103986?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23166d1932&_uhb=1

I use them from a lot of time and a lot of time, extremely sharp and durable. And great price. For example outlasts x10 times the similar Freud/3x price/ and is quite sharper.


PS: Looking again at the photo. You need to fix this somehow both sides, even with extremely sharp tool it will vibrate, hence the marks. A clamp or something to strengthen the edge during machining. Fashion some kind of vise fixture.

Lee Roberts
26-06-2014, 02:59 PM
What is the name of the plastic exactly that are you trying to cut???

That makes a BIG difference. feed and speed i mean.

Why these expensive bits. I can 100% recommend you these http://www.ebay.es/itm/1-4-3-FLUTE-CARBIDE-ENDMILLS-0-HELIX-FOR-PLASTIC-and-WOOD-Kyocera-Microtool-/150700103986?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23166d1932&_uhb=1

I use them from a lot of time and a lot of time, extremely sharp and durable. And great price. For example outlasts x10 times the similar Freud/3x price/ and is quite sharper.

I would think it will be ABS (http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDMQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FAcrylon itrile_butadiene_styrene&ei=QxisU8aODOT4ygPYpIGQBA&usg=AFQjCNGQN-Paz842j2ZHuBR6gV_gjikcQQ&sig2=NOxB1r8GsVWyv1aLx5MFrg&bvm=bv.69837884,d.bGQ) Silyavski, thanks for the link i've added it to my ebay watching list, I was thinking that a nice sharp+hard cutter (carbide) would be better but didnt even think about the helix, thanks for the tip!

.Me

SB463
26-06-2014, 05:05 PM
I know it's ABS, if you need to know what kind I can find out.

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll put that forward.

At the moment we complete 8 in a process and the way we fasten them down is using a block of wood, so I'll look into improving that.

Boyan Silyavski
26-06-2014, 07:42 PM
I would think it will be ABS (http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDMQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FAcrylon itrile_butadiene_styrene&ei=QxisU8aODOT4ygPYpIGQBA&usg=AFQjCNGQN-Paz842j2ZHuBR6gV_gjikcQQ&sig2=NOxB1r8GsVWyv1aLx5MFrg&bvm=bv.69837884,d.bGQ) Silyavski, thanks for the link i've added it to my ebay watching list, I was thinking that a nice sharp+hard cutter (carbide) would be better but didnt even think about the helix, thanks for the tip!

.Me

All the bits i use are only Kyocera bits from him, unbeatable price quality. Funny that they are the cheapest around. The seller is fast and packet comes for 5 days to Spain from USA.


Now back on the plastic. I posted it before, so just dug it out. I dont know what is your machine . Mine is very flimsy. So these should work 100% on any machine. Treat ABS as Plexiglas.

Plastic likes sharp bits.

Depth of cut is crucial for melting the plastic. You can just use the suggested speeds and speeds slowly raising the depth of cut until you are happy.



Everything in imperial,1/8 or 1/4 it doesn't matter as usually the machine is the limiting factor here , not the bit , though more careful with longer or thinner bits :

soft plastic , its scratching but if you go deeper with flimsy machine, it melts.
10779

plexiglass
10780

MDF,wood, works for phenolic plastic also, composite panel
10783

SB463
27-06-2014, 08:30 AM
These are excellent resources for me, thank you!

Once the bit is delivered I'll run it with the correct parameters and see how it goes.

Thank you both very much!