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Gotty101
25-10-2014, 10:57 AM
Hello, im looking to build my first CNC, so i have been lurking around here for a while now looking and reading up. I recently met the builder of SweetDream at the engineering show, who gave me some great pointers and as a result i have altered my design more.

So im looking at building it 500mm x 400mm with 100mm Z axis. Im looking at using SRB20 supported rails and 1604 ballscrews throughout the design. I still need to do more drawing as you can tell ie the rest of the frame below the y axis rails, but if anyone can spot anything that would be great.


The gantry side plates and main spindle plate will be from 6082 20mm aluminium, and the box that wraps round the rails on the x axis will be from 6082 10mm aluminium. The gantry side plates will be joined to the y axis bearing blocks via 60x60mm x 4mm thick aluminium box and inside that i have mounted the ball nut into an aluminium block which is then joined to the aluminium box.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc1.png

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc2.png

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc3.png

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc4.png

Trev

IanS1
25-10-2014, 12:24 PM
It will help with advice if you mention what materials you're intending to cut.

Gotty101
25-10-2014, 02:03 PM
Sorry my mistake. I would like to mill plywood, carbon fibre and aluminium.

Im looking to make the frame it will sit on out of 50mm steel box. Just got to find a local welder.

Trev

JAZZCNC
25-10-2014, 02:12 PM
Like Ian asks materials to cut will help but I've got a few why's.?

Why supportedround rails.?
Why 1604 ~(Do you mean 1605 ballscrews)
Why that size Profile.?
Why is there No bed.?

Got few a suggestions as well. Would make it so the Gantry sit directly on the bearings rather than between the bearing with brackets. This will make it easier to build and setup along with making accurecy easier to find. The way you have it will be much harder to setup without causing binding to bearings etc than sat directly on bearings.

Don't wrap a box around the gantry it doesn't add any strength really and makes setting up harder with bigger potential for causing binding bearings. The extra weight just means less potential acceleration.
Use thicker Rear Z axis plate as 10mm isn't enough and any resonance here will transfer to the finish quality.

Better if you can get the ballscrews down the side out the way as being stuck up high like that they are open to being lent on or caught with material when loading etc.

You don't show any lower frame so it's hard to tell what you thinking here but just bare in mind the base is the foundation for everything else so if this isn't accurate or strong it will impact the rest of the machine in a negative way.!!

Gotty101
25-10-2014, 02:49 PM
Hi thanks for the reply

I went with the supported rails due to profile ones being out of my budget

yes they are 1605

i went with that profile as it lined up nicely with the holes in the supported rail, making it easy to join the two.
Sorry i know having no bed and lower frame makes it tricky to check, its just i wanted what i had drawn checking first in case my design is junk.

With regards to mounting the bearing blocks to the gantry sides, do you mean by bolting a plate to the bottom of the gantry side and then the bearings to that, forming like an upside down T shape?

Ok i will make the plate 20mm and remove the rear plate on the gantry. I saw the idea originally on the Sweetdream CNC which did seem like a good idea.

Is there any good reference design on this website i could look at at all?

Thanks again

Trev

JAZZCNC
25-10-2014, 09:02 PM
I went with the supported rails due to profile ones being out of my budget

Well if you haven't bought them already this is worth re-thinking. Profiled linear rails from china are now quite cheap and the difference isn't worth not using them.


yes they are 1605
Well this again is worth reconsidering. 5mm pitch is fine for harder materials like aluminium but does restrict the speed for cutting woods and plastics correctly. 10mm is a better balance and while more biased towards softer materials it's still gives more than capable resolution for aluminium.
If you connect to the screws with timing belts, which I suggest you do for resonance reasons, then it's an easy ratio change to increase resolution if you ever find your mostly cutting harder materials which need torque and resolution.


i went with that profile as it lined up nicely with the holes in the supported rail, making it easy to join the two.

Ok ye thought that may be case but layed flat like that weakens the material unless it's well supported from below which could be ok for the base if supported from below but the Gantry has is designed can't be so positioned like that so it will be weak in one direction. I'd think about using square rather than rectangle and beef it up a little, say 80x80 or 90x90, or go with "L" sahpe setup like I've posted on forum many times which is stiff in both directions.


With regards to mounting the bearing blocks to the gantry sides, do you mean by bolting a plate to the bottom of the gantry side and then the bearings to that, forming like an upside down T shape?

Something like this I knocked up to show both screws and gantry but with a little more bracing etc. There's many ways but sat on the bearings is strongest and easier to do.
1371513716


Ok i will make the plate 20mm and remove the rear plate on the gantry. I saw the idea originally on the Sweetdream CNC which did seem like a good idea.

Argh but he's only used to taking Pics of UFO's and knows nothing about CNC.! . . Lol . . (:joker: He's a mate not being rude.!!)

Gotty101
26-10-2014, 10:29 AM
Thank you JazzCNC,

That really cleared things up, expecially with the pictures.

With regards to the profile rails i had a look on ebay and they seemed to get quite $$ when i was looking at the longer lengths, but ive found them on aliexpress and they seem alot better priced and with more options, is this where you get yours from?

i had a look for the Z axis for example and found these rails
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/EGR15-350mm-linear-guide-rail-from-taiwan-HIWIN/828633643.html
and these blocks
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PC-HIWIN-HGH15CA-Linear-Guide-Block-for-CNC-Parts-Slider-Block-HGH15CA-HIWIN/2044267870.html

Are these the right kind of thing? Only reason im asking is there seems to be different versions ie HGR MGN.

Sorry about all the questions.

Thanks again

Trev

EddyCurrent
26-10-2014, 10:54 AM
I would advise against the 15 size, the bearing blocks are an absolute pain to grease, go with 20's all round.

JAZZCNC
26-10-2014, 03:03 PM
Are these the right kind of thing? Only reason im asking is there seems to be different versions ie HGR MGN.

Sorry about all the questions.

Hi Trev,

No problem with questions that's why we are here to help each other and ask questions. Don't stop asking questions no mattter how daft they may feel, if your not sure ask.!!

Regards the rails and bearings then like eddy says 20mm tend to be a better size and not just for greasing, they make building the Z axis easier due to being taller and generally give better support with there larger bearings. The rails also sit on the profile better.
With the type then look on the Hi-win site and it will show the difference between the types, it's often very subtle differences like hole centres or bearing heights ratings etc.
Most use the HGH-CA for the slim type and the HGH-CW for the flanged wide type with standard pre-load Z0. If your wondering what pre-load means then it's the amount of pre-tensioning the bearings have when on the rails. Pre-loading removes any slop or play but at same time requires more force to make the bearings slide so we don't want it too high. Z0 is lower pre-load.
Those new to using profiled linear rails are often shocked to find that the bearings don't easily slide when on the rails but require a good shove and then stop quickly. This preload at work. Stand on the buggers and you'll end up on your arse as they work best under pressure and glide like on ice. .. Lol

If your buying from Ali express the look for Fred Lee. Personally I buy ballscrews and rails etc from from Chai at linear motion bearings but he doesn't sell Hi-win brand of rails, they are some other Taiwanese brand which can't think of at minute but they are very good quality do just the same job and a little cheaper.

Gotty101
26-10-2014, 11:13 PM
Thanks guys for the help so far. ive scrapped and started from scratch. Ive based it heavily off the pics you posted Jazzcnc, they where a great help and have used 20 Hiwin rails as suggested. Ive done everything in 20mm ali and doubled up on the aluminium profile now. Ive still got a fair bit to draw like the lower frame and bed and stepper mounts with belt drives, and y axis ball screws. Unfortunately im off for a short break so im going to have to go cold turky from solidworks for the next few days.

im going to have to find a good source of 20mm plate next. I was talking to a close family friend about my project who is an ex tool maker so now i have access to his machine shop now which is a great help.

Thanks again all

Trev

Gotty101
06-11-2014, 12:30 AM
Hi guys, ive done some work redoing the design as per the suggestions. The lower frame will be made from 50mm square steal box with 3mm wall. The total z axis travel is 120mm. Ive not drawn the bed yet but it will sit in the space at the bottom of the frame but also be adjustable upwards .

Ive still got some things to draw like the z axis screw and stepper ect and x axis stepper mounts.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cncb3.pnghttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cncb1.pnghttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cncb2.pnghttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cncb4.png

Trev

irving2008
06-11-2014, 12:47 AM
You need some diagonal bracing on the base. How are you going to ensure the rails are on the same plane? There doesn't seem to be any adjustability in there.

JAZZCNC
06-11-2014, 07:12 PM
How are you going to ensure the rails are on the same plane? There doesn't seem to be any adjustability in there.

He can shim the Profile between the box section. This will work well and be easy enough to get on same plane with careful setup.

Trev. Design looks ok but I'd build the frame differant regards how section is arranged.? Make the the legs extend down to the floor this will make the welding easier and give more support to the uprights. See pic knocked up to show what mean.
13813

Gotty101
09-11-2014, 04:30 PM
Thanks for the replies. My dads got the lower frame priced up built from a company who does work at his company. They gave the choice of carbon steal or aluminium in 50x50x3mm. I will see if i can have the design tweeked. I know they will do a first rate job as they do all sorts of precision work.

Ive just been working through the costs, to see if im in the right ball park. Do these seem right so far or does anyone know where i could get items for a better cost?



Hiwin 20 Rails 4x (off cut of two will build z axis) £155.15 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/750mm-HIWIN-EGR20-linear-guide-rail-from-taiwan/1832489900.html
Hiwin 20 Bearing blocks 12x £222.42 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PC-EGH20CAzoc-HIWIN-Linear-Bearing-Linear-Guideway-blocks-carriage/1048643961.html
Gantry Profile £72.02 http://www.metallin.co.uk/
ball screws £250
spindle £183 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-2KW-WATER-COOLED-SPINDLE-2-2KW-VFD-MILL-GRIND-VARIABLE-DRIVE-WIDELY-BE-USED-/270758654345?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Automation_Contr ol_ET&hash=item3f0a793189
steppers
drivers
controller
aluminium


Thanks again

Trev

JAZZCNC
09-11-2014, 10:08 PM
Try these for profile they are cheap and quick delivery despite being in Germany. I buy my profile here and they are very good with accurate cutting.
http://www.motedis.co.uk/shop/Slot-profiles/Profile-40-I-Type-slot-8:::999991_999993.html

Tip with the gantry profile if you use Bosch rexroth BR type profile 90 x 45 then the BK/BF12 bearing holes match the slots. With Item 8 series type they don't and you'll need to make plates for mounting. I Make machines that use L shape arrangement with 90x45 and they are more than strong enough so don't worrie about using shorter widths.

EddyCurrent
09-11-2014, 10:10 PM
Thanks for the replies. My dads got the lower frame priced up built from a company who does work at his company. They gave the choice of carbon steal or aluminium in 50x50x3mm. I will see if i can have the design tweeked.

I think you will find mild steel is sufficient for the frame and will be much cheaper than aluminium, also the extra weight will be a benefit when the machine is working.

JAZZCNC
09-11-2014, 10:25 PM
I think you will find mild steel is sufficient for the frame and will be much cheaper than aluminium, also the extra weight will be a benefit when the machine is working.

Agree with Eddy and aluminium tends to crack around welds from vibration over time so wouldn't use it for the frame. I weld aluminium often and wouldn't build the frame from it unless weight was critical and even then I'd use much thicker aluminium than I would steel.

Gotty101
10-11-2014, 08:50 PM
thanks for the replies guys.

With regards to the HGH20CA blocks ive found some at a great price but the spec is HGH20CAZOC Very light preload. Or should i go for Z1?
Ive had a look around and this thread said z0 (http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/3711-Hiwin-linear-blocks-HGW-20-CC-what-preload-to-spec)

Thanks again.

Trev

JAZZCNC
10-11-2014, 10:04 PM
Stick with Z0 don't need higher preload than this. The HGH20CAZOC are normal grade bearings and will be fine.

Gotty101
19-11-2014, 10:14 PM
Hi guys, just an update to say ive not given up. Ive order the Hiwin blocks, and found a source for the rails, screws (1610 and 1605 for the z)

This is where im at, ive not had chance to redraw the lower frame or the cnc bed yet but thats next.


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc2/cnc5.pnghttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc2/cnc2.pnghttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc2/cnc1.pnghttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc2/cnc4.pnghttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc2/cnc3-1.pnghttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc2/cnc5.png

Gotty101
19-11-2014, 10:20 PM
I think i may need a few extra idlers in the middle between the two x ball screws at the back.

Gotty101
22-11-2014, 09:31 AM
I got home yesterday to a card from parcelforce, so I think my hiwin bearing blocks are here. :)

vargai
22-11-2014, 10:08 PM
I have removed this post and already placed to the right thread

Gotty101
23-11-2014, 05:28 PM
Hi i just use printscreen and rezize it in photoshop.
With regards to the z axis i have cut a slot in the two plates for clearance. I suggest you open a design thread and ask the guys to give your design the once over before you go to far.

Trev

vargai
23-11-2014, 07:57 PM
Thanks, Z axis principle is well documented here, this is just detail issue,
just I want to pick up all the evident or earlier discussed information
I will do my best with the design but have some definite ideas
As soon I have finished I will open the thread. You are right: design modification is much cheaper than re machining.
BR
István

Gotty101
24-11-2014, 11:22 PM
Hi guys, well my Hiwin blocks have arrived. Ive ordered my ball screws now as i know the main dimensions are not going to change.


This is my idea for a bed, it will be a box as im going to be running suds. The bed can be raised and then bolted to the uprights to keep it in position.
Im going to order the hiwin rail next. I know ive got the FK bearings back to front, but can they be mounted this way? The only reason im looking to mount them this way is if i mount them the normal way im wondering if it will push the pully to far out to line up with the pully on the stepper motor.


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc2/cncBed.png

Trev

Gotty101
26-11-2014, 06:47 PM
JazzCnc are inductive proximity switches accurate enough to use as home and limit switches? Ive used magnetic hall probes in the past but never there.

Also would 3mm plate be strong enough for my cutting bed box with a 10mm drilled mounting plate installed in the bottom or shoul I make the box out of 5mm sheet?

Thanks Trev

JAZZCNC
26-11-2014, 09:08 PM
JazzCnc are inductive proximity switches accurate enough to use as home and limit switches? Ive used magnetic hall probes in the past but never there.

Yes they are very accurate see the vid I made.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A11Zvi3nAFE&list=UUBYXm0M-0sgBQmxoJMvE40A


Also would 3mm plate be strong enough for my cutting bed box with a 10mm drilled mounting plate installed in the bottom or shoul I make the box out of 5mm sheet?

Well if it's just box to contain coolant then yes will be fine but if your thinking to mount cutting bed in there and hang like the drawing suggests then NO WAY will it be strong enough.
To be honest when I first seen the drawing I wondered if you had in mind to put the cutting bed in the bottom of that box and dismissed it that you wouldn't be doing that but now I'm not so sure.! . . . . So which is it.?

Gotty101
27-11-2014, 09:56 AM
Hi JAZCNC, Thanks for the vid, was a great help.

With regards to the bed, yes the actual cutting bed is mounted in the bottom of the box.
So i think i need to go back to the drawing board, i got the idea from the post by biketrialsdave of the red CNC.
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/5549-CNC-Router-V1-0-%28For-Cutting-Multiple-Materials%29/page9
From the looks of it though maybe i should build the box frame in steal box section with a thick base and then mount the bed to that?
Im sure ive seen a blue machine with a similar design.


There is a nice idea by Jonathan on this post here http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/6484-A-sufficiently-strong-machine 14th picture down on the left

Thanks again

Trev

JAZZCNC
27-11-2014, 06:41 PM
Doesn't need anything too fancy Just make a strong frame which fastens to main frame and sit bed on it then surround bed with sealed sides and it won't be any issue but just hanging the bed inside the box will make it resonate and vibrate like crazy when cutting.

Would also use thicker than 10mm Ali for the bed 15/16mm minimum 20/25 better.

Gotty101
28-11-2014, 12:07 AM
Thanks Jazz, ive just redrawn the lower frame and the bed but just need to finish a few bits before i post any more pics up. Ive ordered the prox sensors.

Thanks

Trev

Gotty101
29-11-2014, 11:51 AM
Hi Jazz, ive redrawn the bed its now 20mm thick with a box thats 25x50 surrounding it.
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/CNCNEWFRAME.png

JAZZCNC
29-11-2014, 12:15 PM
Better but will be difficult to achieve and be good enough. Far simpler to just make box section frame and sit the Bed on top then just use Thin sheet to make a surround for containing coolant.
Also how you going to drain and filter and remove coolant/chips because that box will soon fill up with chips/coolant.?

Gotty101
29-11-2014, 06:10 PM
Hi Jazz, thanks for the reply. Ive altered it and hopefully im getting there. I am planning on using thin aluminium angle to build up a shallow surround. Im planning on using mist cooling and not flood.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc2/BedFrame.pnghttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc2/BedFrameWithGutters.pnghttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/cnc2/Assem.png

With regards to electronics what kind of steppers do you think this cnc will eventually require would it need the 3.1nm or 4nm stepper, only reason im asking is to check the stepper space that ive got for the z axis stepper?
http://www.cnc4you.co.uk/CNC-Kits/Digital-Stepper-Kits/Nema23-Stepper-Motor-Digital-Kit-3.1Nm-x-3-Axis

Gotty101
03-12-2014, 01:10 PM
Hi Jazz, does that look ok, the t slot plate will be bolted directly to the adjustable steel frame. Then gutters can be added to the steel frame if im going to be running coolant or not, these will be just aluminium angle.

JAZZCNC
03-12-2014, 05:32 PM
Hi Jazz, does that look ok, the t slot plate will be bolted directly to the adjustable steel frame. Then gutters can be added to the steel frame if im going to be running coolant or not, these will be just aluminium angle.

Yes but personally I'd have the rectangle cross pieces vertical so they provide more strength against deflection. Have a Flat base frame then sit Aluminium onto it then just make thin sheet surround which fastens into sides of ali plate.

Gotty101
03-12-2014, 09:55 PM
Thanks again Jazz, ill update it. I cant wait to start the build, especially when you look at the build logs on here.

Trev

Gotty101
26-12-2014, 03:23 PM
Well small update, ive started building the top part of the CNC with alot of help from a close family friend.
Here is a few pics of the progress.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/a.png

Starting work on the spindle brackets

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/d.png
Main gantry uprights and bearing plates

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/b.png
Gantry bearing blocks



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/c.png
George and i on the Miller building the spindle plate.

With regards to the steppers for the machine, would the 4nm or 3.1nm steppers be best? Im im thinking 4nm ones from cnc4you and am882 for the drivers. I wont get the drivers yet as i dont require them just yet.

Trev

EddyCurrent
26-12-2014, 04:33 PM
With regards to the steppers for the machine, would the 4nm or 3.1nm steppers be best? Im im thinking 4nm ones from cnc4you and am882 for the drivers. I wont get the drivers yet as i dont require them just yet.

Trev

Looking nice so far, it's great when the action starts. I used those stepper motors and the AM882's, they work great but you might want to look at the updated drivers, the EM806; http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/8249-TB6600-general-drive-and-driver-matching-question?p=65162#post65162

Neale
26-12-2014, 05:25 PM
I was disappointed to see the discussion about steppers - from the earlier pictures, I had hoped that this would be the first steam-powered CNC machine!

Gotty101
26-12-2014, 09:20 PM
Thanks EddyCurrent, ill have a good luck. The only reason for the drives is i know they are rated and they are available for a great price on ali express.

Yes Neale, it could well be if George had his way. He has built loads of steam trucks, trains and a steam boat. He is such a cleaver guy and does all his designs in solidworks these days.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/e.png

mitchejc
26-12-2014, 09:24 PM
Those parts are looking great. Well, yes, if the friend who's helping you has build those fancy steam engine things then I'm sure making the cnc machine parts are going to be like Gordon Ramsay whipping up a few snacks for a kids party :-)

GEOFFREY
26-12-2014, 11:56 PM
I was disappointed to see the discussion about steppers - from the earlier pictures, I had hoped that this would be the first steam-powered CNC machine!

Plus one. G.

Gotty101
31-12-2014, 10:03 AM
Thanks for the replies guys.

EddyCurrent, ive ordered the drives and the motors have arrived. Only thing is now i need to find the belts and pulleys. Ive read GT5 i the right type to get but all the belts ive seen only have fiberglass banding and not steal. Does anyone know where to get these from? Ive tried www.beltingonline.com and a few others.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20141230_210618.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20141230_210612.jpg

JAZZCNC
31-12-2014, 11:21 AM
HTD 5 15mm width are the ones you want and the belts dont need to be steel banded they will be fine fibregalss. Just buy a decent quality branded belt like Dunlop or Gates etc.

Noplace
16-01-2015, 05:29 AM
Hi loving the build, quick question which software are you using to design the machine? thanks!

Gotty101
17-01-2015, 10:36 PM
Hiya,

Im using solidworks, its the first time ive used it and is quite intuitive in most part.

Ive straightened the two ball screws on my X axis today and stripped and rebuilt the two ball nuts, since doing it they are so much smother now.

Trev

Gotty101
22-01-2015, 08:08 PM
Hi guys, ive got a fair bit done and am currently looking at the electronics side now. I was looking at using linux cnc, but as i dont have any pc kit to hand that has a true parrallel port im thinking this is not ideal. So im looking at Mach3 or Mach4 and am thinking about using CSMIO/IP-M. Does this look the right way to go?

Trev

EddyCurrent
23-01-2015, 12:32 PM
Hi guys, ive got a fair bit done and am currently looking at the electronics side now. I was looking at using linux cnc, but as i dont have any pc kit to hand that has a true parrallel port im thinking this is not ideal. So im looking at Mach3 or Mach4 and am thinking about using CSMIO/IP-M. Does this look the right way to go?

Trev

I think youi should forget Mach4 for now, Mach3 is the one you want.

Gotty101
28-01-2015, 10:56 PM
Hi guys sorry for the lack of updates. So we have done a fair bit now, lower frame is next. Ive started to build up the control box. Still thinking if CSMIO/IP-M is the way to go as it seem well thought through. I need to get a cabinet for the electrics, ive got the drives the transformer and safety relay so far.

Any here are some pics of what we have done.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20150110_110208.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20150110_133525.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20150115_184857.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20150115_185300.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20150115_185315.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20150115_194820.jpg

JAZZCNC
28-01-2015, 11:40 PM
The Csmio-Ip-M isn't ideal for slaved motors as it will only home to one switch not two.
It's a great controller(I use one) and IMO the Cslabs stuff are best by some margin but the IP-M as only just had slaved motor capabilty added and last I looked they haven't yet made it home to independant switches on same axis.

Gotty101
29-01-2015, 08:49 AM
Thanks Dean, im intending to drive both x axis screws by a belt so I should be able to save the 4th output for a 4th axis later on.

JAZZCNC
29-01-2015, 04:50 PM
Thanks Dean, im intending to drive both x axis screws by a belt so I should be able to save the 4th output for a 4th axis later on.

No brainer then get the IP-M.!!

Gotty101
29-01-2015, 06:42 PM
Thats great, ill get it ordered. Thanks

slamadeleine
24-02-2015, 04:30 PM
Hi Gotty,

Fantastic work on the design or build. I had started designing my own before finding this thread and it looks quite similar to your design. Actually it looks as if I had almost copied yours. I swear I did not. There are two major differences; first I decided to order a Z axis from Parker (404XR) and I'd like to make the base out of extrusion profiles.

Are you going to share your plans for the gantry parts or are they closed? I would be interested in replicating most of your machine on this side of the Atlantic for my personal use would that be a possibility?

Also any progress since your last post?

Thanks,
Sébastien

Gotty101
14-07-2015, 11:40 PM
Hello all,

Sorry for such a delay in my response, ive been quite busy with work, GF and other hobbies/projects. So i thought i would post a short update of where i currently am.

Ive got the machince properly mounted on the frame (epoxy leveled) and the steel is currently being painted Hammerite blue. Its not shown on the pics but its got all the brackets for the energy chain ect now, and ive turned some fittings that will take 4mm festo connectors for greasing the hiwin blocks and ball screws.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20150322_154306.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20150322_142152.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20150322_142024.jpg




ive built my own psu, and integrated a pre made soft-start into it, it has relays that control the cap drain resistor (overkill i know) and the high voltage.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20150714_203311.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20150714_203306.jpg

So now im currently wiring up my cab, ive done the schematic and tonight did the wires to the drives (there is space for the 4th axis when i get round to that) Ill insulate the terminals on the caps before i finish the cab wiring.


Trev

njhussey
15-07-2015, 09:27 AM
Looking good Trev!!!

Gotty101
15-07-2015, 09:18 PM
Thanks Neil, im really looking forward to getting it moving.

Trev

njhussey
15-07-2015, 11:04 PM
It's a good feeling getting it moving....ive just got to get mine so it stops if I cock up.....

Boyan Silyavski
16-07-2015, 09:50 AM
Arent these drives too stuck together ? Give them 1-2 cm apart so they could breathe :thumsup:

Gotty101
16-07-2015, 10:41 AM
They look close but there is about 1 to 2 cm between the heat sync and the next unit. There are two 80mm 24v fans at the top of the case and 3 60mm inlet holes at the bottom. If there is a problem ill mill and install a fan onto the drives heat sync.

Trev

Gotty101
09-09-2015, 02:17 PM
Hi guys, ive still working on the build and doing all the wiring when i can, but i could do with some setup advice.

Im using AM882 drives and the following 4nm steppers (http://www.cnc4you.co.uk/Nema23-Stepper-Motor-4Nm-60BYGH401-03)
I would like to know any general settings to make in the ProTuner software for the drives, as ill be configuring the alarm port setting so its always on and off in the event of a fault so i can daisy chain the alarms, and it will trigger a stop should a fuse go or a wire brake.

One question is i know its bad to unplug the motor from the drive while its running, but would it be bad to power the drive up with no stepper connected for setup purposes of the alarm circuit ect?

Many Thanks

Trev

njhussey
09-09-2015, 02:36 PM
I've powered the drives up with no steppers and it's not affected them...whether it's a right thing to do is another question :)

JAZZCNC
09-09-2015, 04:05 PM
One question is i know its bad to unplug the motor from the drive while its running, but would it be bad to power the drive up with no stepper connected for setup purposes of the alarm circuit ect?

No won't hurt it them at all.

Also Suggest you wire the alarms in parallel so if any one trips it turns on a relay. Put the E-stop thru a NC contact of that relay.
This means the relay will reset when power drops and the drives will reset them selfs. Also you'll avoid any issues with voltage drop wiring in series can give and it's less stress on the drive transistors.

Gotty101
10-09-2015, 01:32 PM
Thats great, thanks for the help guys.

Trev

Gotty101
21-10-2015, 09:18 PM
Small update and rubbish pics. I've started running the cable into the cnc. Also due to my small cab and to make wiring easier for me I've made a pcb to handle the control of the master relay (that's not on this board). It's very basic in design but reduces space and handles drive fault signals and isolates to the limits due to their current drive limitations (bit otters but just incase) (am882s can only handle 100mah each and let's you setup in series or parallel depending on the am882same config), limits (the prox sensors can handle 300mah each) , estops, buzzers and over ride as well so a few other bits.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20151013-WA0000.jpeg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/Mobile%20Uploads/20151018_190117.jpg

routercnc
21-10-2015, 09:56 PM
Looking good Trev.

Like the PCB as well. You might find a few takers on here for that.

Gotty101
20-12-2015, 11:55 PM
Thank you everyone especially to JazzCNC for all your help. Today i finally got my cnc to move by mach and the motion controller for the first time. Im very pleased. Ive got some jobs to do yet like finish the control panel on the cnc itself, and sort the mist system.


I have one drive disconnected at the mo and have bypassed the alarm (will do a much better job of that), as that is for the eventual 4th axis, but i will learn the 3 first.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20151220_183229.jpg

Thanks again guys

Trev

njhussey
21-12-2015, 08:58 AM
Thank you everyone especially to JazzCNC for all your help. Today i finally got my cnc to move by mach and the motion controller for the first time. Im very pleased. Ive got some jobs to do yet like finish the control panel on the cnc itself, and sort the mist system.


I have one drive disconnected at the mo and have bypassed the alarm (will do a much better job of that), as that is for the eventual 4th axis, but i will learn the 3 first.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20151220_183229.jpg

Thanks again guys

Trev
Well done Trev, looking good. It's a good feeling when it moves for the first time isn't it! Finish off what needs doing first before starting to use it....otherwise it'll still need doing in 6 months time, ask me how I know!

Need to post a video of it cutting next...

JAZZCNC
21-12-2015, 03:42 PM
Great another CNc Virgin's cherry is popped well done that man keep up the good work and listen to Neil . . . .Thou he should known better.!!!! :beer:


Finish off what needs doing first before starting to use it....otherwise it'll still need doing in 6 months time, ask me how I know!


Argh but you have no excuse Mr hussey because you were pre-warned. .:watermelon:

njhussey
21-12-2015, 04:27 PM
Argh but you have no excuse Mr hussey because you were pre-warned. .:watermelon:

I know, I know....I've no excuse....[emoji17]

Clive S
21-12-2015, 04:59 PM
Nice control box certainly a credit to you, brill:excitement:

JAZZCNC
21-12-2015, 06:55 PM
Nice control box certainly a credit to you, brill:excitement:

Yes I agree with Clive and forgot to comment, well done mate. I did see one thing thou Trev to be careful with.? Tie rapping those signal cables together isn't a good idea.
I'm not saying undo them now but if you have any strange happenings when working, like twitchy motors etc then go straight there and remove them.

Gotty101
22-12-2015, 10:02 PM
Thank you for the kind messages.

Ive just got some minor thing and the main build is over, then i would like to work on sheilds for the rails and screws, although im currently moving my stuff about as im moving out of my house on the 10th of jan and in to my new one some time in early march.

I had a few problems setting up the z axis last night where it would trip the stall alarm if it was moved quick. In the end i manually tuned the z axis pid current settings and it works a treat now, and tonight ive setup the soft limits and played about a bit. One thing is can you make soft limits default on at all?

Thanks for the heads up JAZZCNC, ive ran all the internal signal cables in belden shielded cable (all the gray wires), and all the signals out of the box are also shielded.
I have installed an EMI filter on the VFD power feed and a EMI filter on the Stepper supply feed. I know its OTT but i wanted to be sure and thought i may as well while i was working on it.

One thing ive been looking at is the vistacnc p4-se mpg which looks quite good, does anyone have any suggestions?


Thanks again for all your help and support, it could not have been done with out your help and support.

Trev

Gotty101
12-08-2016, 09:52 AM
Hi guys,

Just an update to say im still alive and have not given up, ive finally moved into my house fully a few days ago, and managed to do some work on the cnc. One of the home sensors was faulty so i swapped that out and its running a basic g code file (although not cutting anything yet) fine. In the file i have though it starts with a tool change request, but the spindle carry on running. Is this because i need to code the macro for the M command?
It homes and has softlimits so it does not hit the stop no matter what prox switches, the estop circuit works as planned.

Ive got to plumb up the pump for the spindle coolent, the touch probe, front estop button and the mist coolant and we should be done.... Although ive started drawing up my 4th axis that will use a harmonic drive.
Other than the list above, i guess i need to learn to use it now, but on question is how do i know if ive got the motor tuning right is there any guide or advice?


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20160811_200429b.jpg

Kind Regards

Trev

Clive S
12-08-2016, 10:34 AM
Nice to see you back on again Trev.


In the file i have though it starts with a tool change request, but the spindle carry on running. Is this because i need to code the macro for the M command
Not sure what you are saying here but the spindle should start using a M3 and then to stop it use a M5.

If you post the gcode file up then it could be checked.

Beautiful machine by the way I think you should put it in the hall of fame http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10066-Finished-builds-picture-menu?highlight=finished+builds
so that others can see it and get inspiration .

Gotty101
12-08-2016, 01:47 PM
Hi Clive,

Thanks for the reply and the kind words. Yes the spindle starts and stops using the M commands. It may be the test gcode file i found on the net, ill upload it when i get home. I had read that the tool change macro is empty so you implement it yourself, which may be the issue and just a matter of telling the spindle to stop and start again when you say you have changed the tool.

I will post it into the gallery once ive finished tidying it up and fitted the last bits. I cant wait to have a play with it :D

Trev

Neale
12-08-2016, 02:46 PM
Are you using Mach3? I seem to remember a configuration setting somewhere that specifies action on tool change, and one possibility was, in effect, "do nothing".

njhussey
13-08-2016, 06:33 PM
There is a check box as I had the same problem, Jazz told me about it and voilà the M6 codes worked....not near the router now so can't remember exactly where the option was....

JAZZCNC
13-08-2016, 07:03 PM
There is a check box as I had the same problem, Jazz told me about it and voilà the M6 codes worked....not near the router now so can't remember exactly where the option was....

That would be in General Config. See pic

19011

Gotty101
13-08-2016, 11:54 PM
Thanks guys I will have a look. Imy guessing a good test would be some basic wood engravingrain first?

valdis034
25-10-2016, 12:41 AM
Thank you everyone especially to JazzCNC for all your help. Today i finally got my cnc to move by mach and the motion controller for the first time. Im very pleased. Ive got some jobs to do yet like finish the control panel on the cnc itself, and sort the mist system.


I have one drive disconnected at the mo and have bypassed the alarm (will do a much better job of that), as that is for the eventual 4th axis, but i will learn the 3 first.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/CNC/20151220_183229.jpg

Thanks again guys

Trev
Hi. What is the size of you enclosure?

Išsiųsta naudojantis SM-G900F Tapatalk 4 Lt

Gotty101
19-01-2017, 10:40 PM
Happy new year guys.

Well ive been busy doing jobs on the house, although ive also been busy insulating my workshop to try and reduce the chances of rust on my machines. During the christmas holidays i did my first test on the CNC by drawing a circle in a square in cambam, and then getting it to mill it out. It went well although i think i had the feeds and speeds super conservative. So now ive got the tricky task of picking out software for the machine, so if anyone has any recommendations before i spend out money that would be appreciated. I have tried mach 4 although alot of people dont appear to like it much still. One of the things i was unsure of was the motor tuning graph in mach where you setup the acceleration.

On a side note, i have treated myself to a new toy.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/gti_uk/20170115_111504.jpg

Its a WM18. I want to keep it manual, although i would like to build a power feed for the y and z axis using stepper motors, drives and a micro controller. Ive seen a few install a stepper onto the z axis, although i would like to retain the hand wheel on the side. Ive got DROs to install also.


valdis034, Ill measure it up at the weekend and let you know. I must admit it is tight with all the kit ive put into it, but it was self inflicted as i did not want a big cab.

needleworks
20-01-2017, 12:06 AM
So now ive got the tricky task of picking out software for the machine, so if anyone has any recommendations before i spend out money that would be appreciated.
I am a long time mach3 user and have just moved over to UCCNC. Two weeks using it and I'm quite impressed, everything I have asked it to so so far, it has done with no issues. I still have mach3 on my pc so can skip between them if I need to. Another plus, UCCNC is less than half the cost of mach3:victorious: