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View Full Version : WANTED: Small metal airsoft part



TheGrover
14-11-2014, 10:17 PM
Hello, and firstly, i apologise if i have placed this advert where it should not be.

I am looking to have a small metal part made to replace a plastic one that came with an airsoft gun that i recently purchased, however i have no metalworking experience or equipment. of course, i am willing to pay for the services of whoever can produce the part that i need. The part can be made of either Aluminium, Steel, or any other robust metal that will not corrode when exposed to gun greases, lubricants, and the weather.

At the link below is a model created in Google Sketchup (sorry, I'm a child when it comes to CAD), followed by some dimensioned images of the part that i need (all units are in mm).

Mediafire Link (https://www.mediafire.com/?sfqgb9s9musppc9)

Imgur album of images (http://imgur.com/a/heNBz)

And if it seems a little more professional, there are a couple of DWGs attached to this post for reference.

If anybody needs more information to work out if that can make it, and how much you would like to charge, please don't hesitate to ask.

if you are interested, please reply below or send me a personal message/E-mail with your price.

Thanks

TheGrover
14-11-2014, 11:18 PM
Sorry, just realised theres a requests thread hidden away, could an admin/moderator move this post please?

Thanks

Blackrat
15-11-2014, 01:59 AM
I'd have it laser cut and then tig weld the back piece on , wire edm is pricey but your part will be perfect

TheGrover
15-11-2014, 10:45 AM
I'd have it laser cut and then tig weld the back piece on , wire edm is pricey but your part will be perfect

Thanks for the advice. Where is the best place to get this done? And will it be expensive?

Thanks

magicniner
15-11-2014, 01:10 PM
The part could be machined with a 3 axis milling machine from a piece of angle-section stock.

- Nick

corkcnc
16-11-2014, 01:08 AM
With respect to Blackrat, I wouldn't TIG as there is too much heat going into a small part, you are just asking for distortion, but maybe Blackrat is just a much better welder than me :). I would agree with Nick and 3axis mill. I wouldn't use angle or box section though as they are extruded from a gummier aluminium, go with a block of 6082 T6, the part is small so material will be cheap. Nothing too technical in the drawing though so someone local should be able to sort you out. Start with a block, mill with the "from left" view facing up, saw off, flip and skim to 2.7mm.Might need a basic jig though to prevent chatter by picking up on the hole.
Best of luck with it.
On an aside I think you should rename "Front View" as "Back View" for the left/right to be correct. I'm not trying to be a pedantic ass but it's important to prevent ambiguity if you send the part to someone for machining. (But I could be wrong, it might be some 1st/3rd angle thing I missed)
Rgds,
Noel.

magicniner
16-11-2014, 01:26 AM
Noel,
Angle, Box, Tube, Plate & Bar are available in the composition of your choice, my supplier only stocks structural grades as standard and so hasn't sold me any "gummy" stock yet ;-)
Google searching "6082 T6 Angle" reveals many stockists, ringing round might even yield a free or cheap sample large enough for the part in question,
Regards,
Nick

corkcnc
16-11-2014, 01:59 AM
I wish I had your supplier local, Nick. I have to use ebay for anything "exotic". :) :).

TheGrover
16-11-2014, 09:57 AM
Ah, i may have labelled the front and back incorrectly. My bad :p

Thanks for the advice so far

Blackrat
16-11-2014, 12:13 PM
To machine that outta a billet is gonna be ALOTTA work , what sort or programming costs ?
If you not keen on the little tab being welded on, then I'd just cut it flat and bend it up

Biggest problem is most laser cutting places have a minimum order, here is SA it's about 15 but for that you can prolly get 5-10 of them cut, still the cheapest way to do it , IMO ofcourse

Been tig welding on and off for 15 years .... Can get it right sometimes ;-)

JohnHaine
16-11-2014, 01:08 PM
Does it have to be that exact shape? What are critical dimensions to fit/work? As shown I think I would start with a solid lump of Ali, take 3 or 4 cuts on different axes to get the major shape after drilling the holes needed, then get to work with a file.

deisel
16-11-2014, 02:12 PM
Im a little too busy but having a quick look at the original part below and with them being plastic is the gusset that reinforces that pin/upright needed?im not sure what kind of stresses it will be under but if it were made in aluminium??..could the upright be replaced with a brass pin or cut down stainless bolt so made in two parts or does it need to be square and shamfered like you drawn. it seems a simple part to make out of a bit of plate or billet and like said a bit of a file where needed using the old one as a template seeing as its a one off.
http://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/ics-l85-l86-replacement-hop-unit-ml-07-black-poly-9749-p.asp

mekanik
16-11-2014, 04:33 PM
Don't see the problem using TIG, I was using it on 1mm plate every time the MOT came up on my Metro

TheGrover
16-11-2014, 05:32 PM
none of those dimensions are critical, certainly not as critical as i have made out with the 0.01mm dimensions.

and the part is really a copy of the plastic one, the reinforcement of the protrusion will probably not be necessary. the stress involved in the part is a small spring pushing the end furthest from the protrusion upwards, turning the arm around the pin and making the lowest part push a small nub into the barrel of the gun, giving the BBs backspin the protrusion extends onto an adjustment wheel which is turned to lift the nub (against the spring) and reduce the backspin.

does anyone think they could make this for me?


Thanks

JAZZCNC
16-11-2014, 06:00 PM
does anyone think they could make this for me

Yep I can and you where in luck today as I had to setup a machine so you gave me something to do. Here it is.! Pm me your address and I'll send it you.

Only differences are there are some 1.5mm radius in corners as smallest endmil I had was 3mm.

13857

TheGrover
16-11-2014, 06:26 PM
That looks great, ill PM my address to you now.

How much do you want for it? Its only fair that i pay for your time and effort.

Blackrat
16-11-2014, 07:52 PM
;) top stuff !!

JAZZCNC
16-11-2014, 08:54 PM
That looks great, ill PM my address to you now.

How much do you want for it? Its only fair that i pay for your time and effort.

Well I'm getting low on Guiness but I'm also getting tubby so we'll just call it a 6 pack not 12. . .:loyal:

Edit: Not had PM just in case you tried sending and hasn't worked.?

JAZZCNC
16-11-2014, 10:23 PM
For anybody who wondered how or what went into doing it then here is the simulation. Never thought to do video.!!
Not much too it really 7 operations with 4 tools. Total machine time with tool changes and filp 16mins and 6 tool simulation time 11mins.

OP 1 & 2 clearence with 6mm endmill.
OP 3 holes with 2mm drill
OP 4 & 5 Ramp & hole pocket with 2mm ballnose used to clean up holes.
OP 6 profile 4mm endmill

OP 7 flip and 0,35mm surface to break loose with 4mm tool.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbZep22OlX0

GEOFFREY
16-11-2014, 10:43 PM
Jazz, its dead easy when you know how - that's the hard bit. Really good of you. G.

JAZZCNC
16-11-2014, 11:01 PM
Jazz, its dead easy when you know how - that's the hard bit. Really good of you. G.

To be honest Geoffrey I like the change from doing boring run if the mill Z axis and gantry parts etc i'm always doing. Small parts I find rewarding and challenging because they are hard to hold with very little room for error. Worst bit is tool changes can take longer than the Op's it's here where a ATC would be nice. . .Lol

TheGrover
04-12-2014, 10:32 AM
Just got the parts last night (two identical), but unfortunatley, my design skills have let me down and the part needs a little adjusting... Time to break out the dremel! :p

Once i fix the part and test it, ill adjust the design and re post it in case anyone else wants to use it to make their own.

Big thanks to Jazz for forseeing my stupidity and sending a spare :p

JAZZCNC
05-12-2014, 12:57 AM
Just got the parts last night (two identical), but unfortunatley, my design skills have let me down and the part needs a little adjusting... Time to break out the dremel! :p

Once i fix the part and test it, ill adjust the design and re post it in case anyone else wants to use it to make their own.

Big thanks to Jazz for forseeing my stupidity and sending a spare :p

If you make the adjustments and let me know I'll see about knocking a few more up when get time.

TheGrover
05-12-2014, 06:44 AM
Thanks jazz. You really dont need to you know.

Ill update my model after i test it anyway, but that was more for the people searching google for a place to get the part

TheGrover
05-12-2014, 10:48 PM
Ok the part model is now revised, see the files attached to this post.

Changes from the Mk1 to the Mk2:


area beneath the lever arm removed due to a clash with part of the hop unit (the part that this arm is fixed within)
Nub effector (lowest part) raised by 1mm to move the "Sweet spot" of adjustment closer to the centre of adjustment, giving a greater range of adjustability
Pin Hole enlarged slightly to make installation easier and movement less restricted (also rounded the internal face as sketchup can't do curves properly)
Lever arm reduced in size to correct a fundamental error made with the Mk1 (my bad :P)


All these corrections should make the part just slip in nicely and work a dream.

If anyone needs any help with the part, or another file type creating, just PM me on here

DoodleBlob
30-12-2014, 03:19 AM
Hi there.

Just to double check, is this the hop up arm for the ICS L85/L86? If so I am very interested in a metal one as the plastic one is not great. Is it possible someone could make one for me, name a price though first!

Thanks.

TheGrover
31-12-2014, 01:51 AM
yes, this is designed for my ICS L85 (I assume that the L86 has the same hop unit, though i haven't checked).

if you do want one, make sure that you use the revised model, attached to the post above yours, as the first version was a pain to install due to my own stupidity (I had to take a Dremel to it).

its also worth saying that since i have changed the model after installing mine, i haven't actually tested the updated version, so be prepared to "Adjust" it, if necessary, though i hope you shouldn't need to.