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View Full Version : BUILD LOG: Ar last!!! Started my Gantry 3-Axis CNC Build



MikeyC38
11-12-2014, 06:02 PM
The day has come and I have finally started my 3-axis Gantry router build. I've been lurking on the forum for too long now and its time to do this. Firstly thanks to all the forum members who have contributed to the design - Jazz, John & HiltonSteve who inspired me with his build all those years ago. Attached are some 3d renderings and pics of stuff. Currently doing lots of drilling holes and counterboring in ali strip and plate for the bolts etc.
Basic machine specs are:

3-axis 1100 x 700 x 300 ballscrews.
SBR20 on X SBR16 on Y & 7
Frame from 80x40mm heavy and intermediate extrusions (2.8 and 4kg/m)
Plate - Gantry sides 20mm cast plate 5083
Z axis - Tooling plate cast 5083
Frame Ends 15mm plate 6060

3.1Nm Steppers CNC Kit 1 from Zapp

Photos taken in a unit my neighbour has - did'nt trust the runout on my pillar drill with M8 clearance drill.

Watch this space for more pics as build progresses

Mikehttp://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14043&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14044&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14045&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14047&stc=1

kingcreaky
12-12-2014, 03:42 PM
looks like you have it all worked out, and plenty of space & a kettle!!. Keep the pictures coming..

IanS1
12-12-2014, 05:24 PM
Should be a nice little build that. Looking forward to seeing it come together, keep us posted.

routercnc
13-12-2014, 11:12 AM
Nice little wood cutting machine. Don't forget the energy chains. You might just fit one under the X rail on a shelf bolted to the extrusion.
With the single ballscrew on X try to cut jobs on the centre line of the machine to reduce racking.

JAZZCNC
13-12-2014, 04:42 PM
Nice little wood cutting machine. Don't forget the energy chains. You might just fit one under the X rail on a shelf bolted to the extrusion.
With the single ballscrew on X try to cut jobs on the centre line of the machine to reduce racking.

Nah there will be no problem cutting off centre in wood with this design at this size. I've built several know using almost identical design (probably because mikey copied most of my router design. . Lol) and they don't flex while cutting woods, even hard woods.

That said I wouldn't use single screw for cutting aluminium or really deep DOC cuts in hardwoods as then there is potential for some racking.

There is just enough room for energy chains between profiles but needs certain size. It also doesn't need a shelf as nearly half the chain can be supported or bolted to the profile and the remainder easily handles the weight of cables etc.

MikeyC38
16-12-2014, 02:16 PM
Nah there will be no problem cutting off centre in wood with this design at this size. I've built several know using almost identical design (probably because mikey copied most of my router design. . Lol) and they don't flex while cutting woods, even hard woods. .

Hi Jazz - I merely took the good advice that you offered !!!

Once the machine is up and running (and doing some useful work) I will upgrade to twin belt-driven ball screws.

I admit that the energy chains location is a bit of an afterthought....

Thanks
Mike

JAZZCNC
16-12-2014, 03:07 PM
Hi Jazz - I merely took the good advice that you offered !!!

So you saying you haven't copied anything from the L shape profile gantry Gantry or the offset drop Z axis Layout or the profile base with aluminium end plates I use.?. .:hopelessness: . . .Ok.!!!!

If thats the case then sure you must have accounted for the gotcha's that I see and encountered.!!

MikeyC38
20-12-2014, 06:34 PM
So you saying you haven't copied anything from the L shape profile gantry Gantry or the offset drop Z axis Layout or the profile base with aluminium end plates I use.?. .:hopelessness: . . .Ok.!!!!

If thats the case then sure you must have accounted for the gotcha's that I see and encountered.!!

Hi Jazz

I have to ashamedly say "yes" but good design and good principles are always worth following!

regards
Mike

JAZZCNC
20-12-2014, 07:03 PM
Hi Jazz

I have to ashamedly say "yes" but good design and good principles are always worth following!

regards
Mike

No problem and it's fine by me. If didn't like it copied I wouldn't let it out in the public domain.

MikeyC38
29-01-2015, 12:42 PM
Hi Guys
Sorry to be so tardy with postings and updates but I have been working on this. One of the things you discover when building a CNC from extrustions is the amount of drilling and thread tapping you have to do! Thanks to my neighbour who is a retired tool maker, he advised that I use spiral taps and these are brilliant when used in an electric drill! My top tip of the day! Attached are some photos of progress. You can see how the L-shaped Y axis inspired by Jazz was done. I have recently completed the drilling of the "thickner plates" which are used to mount the round supported rails because the material in the extrusions is too thin to directly mount the rails. Also I now need to clear out my garage so that I have space to assemble and check the machine!


http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14541&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14549&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14548&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14547&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14546&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14545&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14544&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14543&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14542&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14550&stc=1

MikeyC38
14-07-2015, 01:41 PM
Hi Guys
Making somewhat slow progress on this but the attached pics show the gantry trial assembled. Runs really nicely on the supported round rails and I detect no binding anywhere! However I have invested in a pack of steel shim material because I expect that stuff will need it to get everything square and nice! The biggest step now is to get the plate holding the z-axis stepper manufactured. Hoping that the local FE college will help here as I don't have a milling machine :upset:http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15698&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15699&stc=1

Also does anybody have or make some clamps for the 80mm water cooled spindle? I thought Jonathan was making these at some stage but can't raise him via the forum?

Any tips on what lubricant to use on the supported round rails? I will be using Mobilux EP2 for the ball screws (via the ball nut)

Regards
Mike

njhussey
14-07-2015, 02:29 PM
Looking good Mike!! I've used a 50mm round linear rail bearing housing (bought it from Zapp) which can be picked out quite cheaply on ebay. Jyst take out the circling holding the bearing in and press put the bearing, cut through one side and when you tighten it down it clamps the spindle....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/14/965c331d056f31760768f4a01577b4ff.jpg

MikeyC38
14-07-2015, 03:30 PM
Looking good Mike!! I've used a 50mm round linear rail bearing housing (bought it from Zapp) which can be picked out quite cheaply on ebay. Jyst take out the circling holding the bearing in and press put the bearing, cut through one side and when you tighten it down it clamps the spindle....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/14/965c331d056f31760768f4a01577b4ff.jpg
Thanks nj for the tip. Trying to keep the gantry weight down as it will approach 30kg when fully loaded with spindle z-axis and rails.

njhussey
14-07-2015, 03:37 PM
You could always cut a couple of slivers off it at either end to keep the bolt holes??

If I had my router finished (nearly!!!!!!!) Then I'd cut you some but as it is you might be waiting a few weeks yet.....

I've got a Nema 23 driving my Z axis up and down and ive got a 40mm plate dangling out front, Nema 23 on the Y axis and they're set at 10m/min rapids at the moment and they handle it fine....mind you I've a 8Nm Nema 34 on the X axis [emoji6]

MikeyC38
14-07-2015, 03:38 PM
Also I managed to get my garage cleared ( well sort of!) To continue the build. The mc will weigh around 100kg when completed so I needed a hefty table. Thanks to my neighbour Martin who custom welded a table for me!

kingcreaky
16-07-2015, 01:28 PM
looking good.. keep the pictures coming... both of the machine.. and the tidy workshop :D

MikeyC38
16-07-2015, 01:32 PM
Congratulations on nearing the end of your build and setup. I'm hoping to get the machine moving under computer control by September and fine tuned and ready for real work by the end of the year...

MikeyC38
04-05-2016, 05:55 PM
Some more pictures of the build. I've been ill since September 2015 and thus made no progress until March 2016. But the Z axis is in place and moves nicely in the Y axis!

BTW does anybody know if SBRUU linear bearings have to be lubricated? and if so, with what type of lubricant and how frequently?

Thanks Everyone for the help and inspiration so far!

Mike

Clive S
04-05-2016, 06:19 PM
Some more pictures of the build. I've been ill since September 2015 and thus made no progress until March 2016. But the Z axis is in place and moves nicely in the Y axis! Glad to hear you are getting back to good health and able to start back on the machine again.:applouse:

Its looking good and seems to be nearly there have you started on the electronic etc?

komatias
05-05-2016, 12:09 PM
BTW does anybody know if SBRUU linear bearings have to be lubricated? and if so, with what type of lubricant and how frequently?

Thanks Everyone for the help and inspiration so far!

Mike

Mike, Yes they do. Should have some grease nipples...(hehe) on the side. I like to use moly bearing grease for high load applications, this is commonly known as CVjoint grease too. Do not go crazy though so you can at least make an attempt to keep the rails clean of dust/grease gunk. Frequency depends on use, gut feel indication would be 1/month for occasional use, 1/week for heavy use.

R's

routercnc
05-05-2016, 12:25 PM
Mike, Yes they do. Should have some grease nipples...(hehe) on the side. I like to use moly bearing grease for high load applications, this is commonly known as CVjoint grease too. Do not go crazy though so you can at least make an attempt to keep the rails clean of dust/grease gunk. Frequency depends on use, gut feel indication would be 1/month for occasional use, 1/week for heavy use.

R's

I'm not sure about SBR16UU type blocks having grease nipples. External features on the sides of these always look like grub screws to hold the bearing in place. I've not re-greased mine and they've been running fine for years. Where possible I think you would have to slide the relevant axis off the rails to smear some grease onto the balls and that involves quite a strip down. It wouldn't hurt to give them a very light smear of moly grease before assembly:
18393

But Hiwin style blocks do have them and you can grease them if you can get to them, but you are not using that type:
18394

Lee Roberts
05-05-2016, 12:45 PM
I'm not sure about SBR16UU type blocks having grease nipples. External features on the sides of these always look like grub screws to hold the bearing in place. I've not re-greased mine and they've been running fine for years.

No they don't have them :(, the side grub is for taking out any slop allowing you to preload them just right on the TBR units, they also have a locating grub in the top that I think is for locating the bearing unit it's self.

I thought about engineering up oil lines on too each housing, that would allow the oil to drip directly on to the top of the rail as it passes in to the bearing unit, though I thought for the effort it's probably not much of a job just to oil the rails as you need to manually...

.Me

MikeyC38
06-05-2016, 12:48 AM
Thanks Lee, Routernc and Komatias

I've not been able to find any info on the web about lubricating these SBRXXUU linear slide bearings. So I might just have to grease / oil the rails (lightly) I guess. I found a useful source for the ballscrew grease (Mobilux EP2) ( here (http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p188014/Mobilux-EP2-NLGI-2-Grease-400g-Cartridge/product_info.html)) and much cheaper than Ma*Di* who charge 12 for a 50ml syringe! The tech support guy at Simply Bearings is making enquiries for me , so if I get a reply I'll post it here.

I hope to start on the electronics soon - within the next 3 weeks, so more questions and photos to come. Thanks to Jazz for posting a solution for the safety circuit and the use of proximity switches for homing. Now I understand how to wire the emergency stop system!

lucan07
06-05-2016, 07:39 AM
My bearings are the SBR16UU and I did put grease nipples on side and grease them with the gun mine had no grub on the side only on top side was open, if Lee is correct I may have made an error but the grease certainly arrived where expected, having removed Z axis at one point for adjustment bearings were nicely coated and operation has certainly been slightly quieter since application, at extremes of travel a minor grease line appears at wipes max reach is apparent. I did have some paperwork with the two boxes of chinese bearings recieved in chinese so not read but picture showed top grub for loading bearing and side had grease gun aligned hence my judgement to add nipples and grease. Would be interesting to hear any thoughts if I can find paper recieved with mine will scan and add here, although it may well have been recycled as being of little use.

Lee Roberts
06-05-2016, 09:16 AM
Thanks Lee, Routernc and Komatias

I've not been able to find any info on the web about lubricating these SBRXXUU linear slide bearings. So I might just have to grease / oil the rails (lightly) I guess. I found a useful source for the ballscrew grease (Mobilux EP2) ( here (http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p188014/Mobilux-EP2-NLGI-2-Grease-400g-Cartridge/product_info.html)) and much cheaper than Ma*Di* who charge 12 for a 50ml syringe! The tech support guy at Simply Bearings is making enquiries for me , so if I get a reply I'll post it here.

I hope to start on the electronics soon - within the next 3 weeks, so more questions and photos to come. Thanks to Jazz for posting a solution for the safety circuit and the use of proximity switches for homing. Now I understand how to wire the emergency stop system!
Just get yourself some lithium 2 grease and that will be fine, it's cheap as well.

Just consider the bearings glorified skate bearings because that's all they are really, so don't require anything specialised unless you really want to make the effort, grease will last longer than oil but obviously it gets gummy once contaminated and so on, but again the wipers on these units do quite a good job at keeping the raceways clear of foreign bodies.

I could be wrong on the side grubscrew being there for greasing, they may have improved the design or something but all the open type bearing cages I've handled were closed on the casing, I'll have a look shortly on the TBR I've got here and take some pics but I'm confident on those being closed...

Edit: Just looked at the EP2 you linked, it says "is a premium quality multi-purpose, lithium-base NLGI No 2 grease".

The stuff I can get is a multipurpose NLGI lithium 2 grease but it's only 3.50 a tube and doesn't have a major brand name to inflate the price:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160506/fcae3c9fe4b2452e49ac6e3ae9dd03e0.jpg


A Premium quality mineral oil, lithium thickened lubricating grease suitable for general purpose applications in plain and anti-friction bearings.

Conforms to leading bearing manufacturers specifications for general purpose industrial and automotive grease.

Can send you a tube if you want, I've been using it for everything and for years with np.

.Me

MikeyC38
06-05-2016, 09:28 AM
Thanks Lee for the comment. From my research a lot of ball screw manufacturers recommend the Mobilux EP2 for their ball nuts @ 0.8-1.0ml per 10mm of ball screw diameter, so that's the only reason why I'm choosing it. However 3.50 is much cheaper so I'll have a look around for alternatives as you have suggested. For my 1605 screws this works out to around 1.5ml per ball nut per axis. The SBR16UU and SBR20UU have a side screw but I believe this is for adjustment / pre-loading as you have already said.

Lee Roberts
06-05-2016, 09:33 AM
See my edit above ^^

MikeyC38
07-05-2016, 08:56 PM
Hi Lee.

I'll contact you via PM

Thanks
Mike

lucan07
07-05-2016, 11:17 PM
Had a look for my bearings documentation but could not find picture but did find this one online from same supplier same as picture which was on leaflet which got recycled except for being open bearing for supported rail. As it goes the fact that they all used to be sealed helps me, I have removed nipples on Z axis can always pop one in annualy to grease them again, but they got in the way a little as I hadn't allowed for them.

MikeyC38
21-09-2016, 01:27 PM
Some more pictures of the build. I've been ill since September 2015 and thus made no progress until March 2016. But the Z axis is in place and moves nicely in the Y axis!

BTW does anybody know if SBRUU linear bearings have to be lubricated? and if so, with what type of lubricant and how frequently?

Thanks Everyone for the help and inspiration so far!

Mike

I have done the initial stages of the electronics build and the stepper motors have be attached to the machine. I have a video of it working (albeit at a modest 1m/min) until I've done the following:

1) Limit Switches
2) E-Stop connected to relay to cut power and signal Mach 3 (rather than signal Mach3 first)
3) Proximity home switches

Again thanks to Dean for posting a great schematic of how to do a 24V dc e-stop system. What would we newbies do without your help (and ). And to Lee for the steer on grease for the ballscrews.
Expect to have above done by mid october so I can start doing the tramming etc.

In the interim I posted another picture with the spindle mounted (just to show that I am making progress!)
1924919250

Wish me luck boys!

Clive S
21-09-2016, 05:28 PM
Wish me luck boys!It's coming along nicely Mike keep up the good work looks like you will have a nice machine

MikeyC38
22-09-2016, 12:20 AM
Thanks Clive for your kind comments.

I've uploaded a YouTube video here (https://youtu.be/0PEZbvbBslU) showing the gantry moving in all axes at a magnificent speed of 1 metre/min!

Now that I've worked out how soft limits and emulated home switches work, I'll post a video of it working with a piece of real G-Code doing air cuts at this stage.

Sherpa
03-10-2016, 10:53 PM
Hi, I have a quick question how are you finding having one Y axis with the cut quality you are getting, i am at the stage now where i am thinking for the first machine i will keep it at one for now, so i don't need to worry about belts driving two ballscrews etc. If you had your time again would you use Two steppers / or belts or do you find having a single Y axis drive centered is working for you?

Kind Regards
Sherpa

Clive S
04-10-2016, 09:08 AM
Hi, I have a quick question how are you finding having one Y axis with the cut quality you are getting, i am at the stage now where i am thinking for the first machine i will keep it at one for now, so i don't need to worry about belts driving two ballscrews etc. If you had your time again would you use Two steppers / or belts or do you find having a single Y axis drive centered is working for you?

Kind Regards
SherpaIt all depends what you want to cut with the machine and how wide it is how it is built etc.. There are pro's and con's using one or two motors that has been debated many times on here.

JAZZCNC
04-10-2016, 04:00 PM
Hi, I have a quick question how are you finding having one Y axis with the cut quality you are getting, i am at the stage now where i am thinking for the first machine i will keep it at one for now, so i don't need to worry about belts driving two ballscrews etc. If you had your time again would you use Two steppers / or belts or do you find having a single Y axis drive centered is working for you?

Kind Regards
Sherpa

Which to use or how well one works over the other moslty depends on the width of machine and like Clive mentions what your cutting.
The cut off point for me is anything wider than 600mm cut will bennifit from twin screws/belts. 600-400mm is open to usage to which is best. Less >=400 then single screw is fine unless mostly cutting Non ferrous metals then I'd go twin every time.

MikeyC38
05-10-2016, 09:26 PM
Hi, I have a quick question how are you finding having one Y axis with the cut quality you are getting, i am at the stage now where i am thinking for the first machine i will keep it at one for now, so i don't need to worry about belts driving two ballscrews etc. If you had your time again would you use Two steppers / or belts or do you find having a single Y axis drive centered is working for you?

Kind Regards
Sherpa

Hi Sherpa
I don't know about the cut quality yet -still fiddling with basic calibration and wanting to fit Jazzcnc's relay based e-stop system before really "going" for it. There may be some racking issues but if I cut in the centre of the board, this should reduce it. I guess if (or most probably when!) I do this again , then twin 1610 ballscrews, belt driven (avoids problem of twin steppers de-synchronising but I don't want to start a flame war here!!!) 68v stepper drivers and a different design for the gantry and precision profiled rails. But I'll wait and see how I get on with this one. It's taken me long enough to get to this stage!!!

I have to admit I'm impressed with the current stiffness of the gantry but cutting will be the true test.

Regards
Mike

MikeyC38
05-10-2016, 11:41 PM
Thanks Clive for your kind comments.

I've uploaded a YouTube video here (https://youtu.be/0PEZbvbBslU) showing the gantry moving in all axes at a magnificent speed of 1 metre/min!

Now that I've worked out how soft limits and emulated home switches work, I'll post a video of it working with a piece of real G-Code doing air cuts at this stage.

I've uploaded another YouTube video here (https://youtu.be/miWJlIoD33k)running g-code for the first time. Programmed random rapid movements in the XY plane of up to 4500 mm/min. Now got the cable chains installed but had to unsolder all the stepper motor connections to fit the cable chain! doh!

Clive S
06-10-2016, 08:07 AM
Almost there Mike sounds nice as well, keep up the good work.

MikeyC38
08-11-2016, 01:31 PM
Have some more footage posted on YouTube here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJx18OSZs7Q)

Have temporarily given up trying to get my proximity switches to work :-( so using soft limits for now.

Question: I now have to tram the spindle head. I have a dial micrometer and a sheet of 10mm plate glass. Do I need to level the glass in absolute terms, then tram against the glass or just tram against the glass so that the spindle is correctly aligned relative to the glass?

Advice appreciated.

Thanks
Mike

Lee Roberts
08-11-2016, 07:50 PM
That one:


or just tram against the glass so that the spindle is correctly aligned relative to the glass?

Looking forward to seeing how this machine performs Mike, it's very similar to mine.

MikeyC38
08-11-2016, 08:16 PM
That one:



Looking forward to seeing how this machine performs Mike, it's very similar to mine.


Thanks Lee - relative tramming!

Lee Roberts
08-11-2016, 09:24 PM
Thanks Lee - relative tramming!
Assuming your going to be laying the glass on the bed, placing indicator base on this, then rasing and lowering the Z, adjusting the spindle as you travel to keep "0" ?

MikeyC38
09-11-2016, 08:46 AM
Assuming your going to be laying the glass on the bed, placing indicator base on this, then rasing and lowering the Z, adjusting the spindle as you travel to keep "0" ?

yes. Swinging the dial indicator left and right 180 degrees in the "Y axis" (short axis) direction, then front and back 180 degrees in the "X axis" (long axis) direction.

MikeyC38
30-12-2016, 01:37 AM
Hi everyone

Finally done the first cuts with the machine! I have a video posted on Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvKm1ncV6-M&feature=youtu.be which shows the baseboard being levelled. I'm using a 1 1/8" (29mm) diameter bottom clearing bit @12000 rpm and 3000 mm/min feed and first pass at 0.75mm and finishing pass at 0.25mm

I did'nt realise how much dust would be created, so the next job will be the creation of a dustboot for the spindle and a cyclone filter system. I initially used my trusty Aldi ash can filter, but it soon got clogged up with the fine MDF dust. It will work better behind a cyclone system.

Also, I hooked up the Huanyang VFD to Mach3 using the VFD plugin by Sebastien here (http://royaumedeole.fr/informatique/plugin-mach3-pour-vfdhuanyang/mach3-plugin-for-huanyang-vfd/)
This worked first time, but when I tried cutting in anger I got and e-stop near the end of the first cut, so had to abandon it and set the spindle by hand. I'm sure the problem is due to some electrical noise somewhere so need to add an EMI filter to the VFD and earth the shield on the RS485 connection to PC running Mach3

Overall really pleased, but still spending money on this.

Thanks to all you have advised me over the years (Jazz, Jonathan, John, Lee and others) and those who have encouraged me in the build (routercnc, kingcreaky, clive s and others) . If I've missed you off the list - i'm sorry - your help has been appreciated! - I'll have more to show in the coming weeks

Regards

Mike

njhussey
30-12-2016, 01:48 AM
😁 nice one Mike, always good seeing the first chips (or dust in your case!!!) from a machine...looking forward to seeing more. You do know that you'll be constantly doing more bits to it don't you? I've just made an ali corner finder to go with my touch plates, next is dust shoe mk2 then a better mist/fog nozzle system, then web cam in dust shoe....it goes on 😁

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

JAZZCNC
30-12-2016, 08:36 AM
then web cam in dust shoe....it goes on ��

Poser.!!. . .:cool:

:toot: Well done Mikey know it's been long slog but you done it correctly and you'll soon start reaping the bennifits.:toot: (go easy on DOC else you'll be replacing beds every other week.!)

Regards the false E-stop have you Earthed the Machine Frame.?

MikeyC38
30-12-2016, 05:20 PM
Hi Jazz

Yes it has been a long slog as you and I well remember! Thanks for the tip on earthing the machine. Should I earth it to the star earth I have in the control box (all shielded cables from machine to control box star earthed) or run it back to the mains earth?

Regards
Mike

MikeyC38
30-12-2016, 05:23 PM
�� nice one Mike, always good seeing the first chips (or dust in your case!!!) from a machine...looking forward to seeing more. You do know that you'll be constantly doing more bits to it don't you? I've just made an ali corner finder to go with my touch plates, next is dust shoe mk2 then a better mist/fog nozzle system, then web cam in dust shoe....it goes on ��

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

Thanks Neil. Ideally I would like to get the proximity homing switches working :upset: so that I can get tool changes consistent and touch plates. These items improve productivity.

Cheers - Mike

JAZZCNC
30-12-2016, 05:49 PM
Should I earth it to the star earth I have in the control box (all shielded cables from machine to control box star earthed)

Yes to the Star point.

MikeyC38
30-12-2016, 06:20 PM
Thanks Jazz I'll try that first before getting the EMI filter

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk

njhussey
31-12-2016, 10:35 AM
Thanks Neil. Ideally I would like to get the proximity homing switches working :upset: so that I can get tool changes consistent and touch plates. These items improve productivity.

Cheers - Mike
That's the best thing I've done on my machine, makes life so much easier and jobs quicker! What BOB/controller you using?

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

MikeyC38
31-12-2016, 06:53 PM
That's the best thing I've done on my machine, makes life so much easier and jobs quicker! What BOB/controller you using?

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

I am using the Zapp BoB ZP5A-INT (http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/electrical-products/breakout-boards/zp5a-int.html) and the NPN proximity switches as suggested by Jazz some time ago. I posted this (http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10262-Wiring-24v-NPN-Proximity-Switch-to-5v-BOB-Why-does-nt-it-work)a couple of months ago, but could'nt get it working. I have a separate 24v PS for the relay safety system which I also wanted to use to power the prox switches. But if you or Jazz can give me some inspired thoughts I would be grateful

Regards
Mike

MikeyC38
27-01-2017, 12:22 AM
Thanks Jazz I'll try that first before getting the EMI filter

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Hi Jazz, manage to get rid of the noise by doing everything you said and using an IEC EMI filter socket for the mains input to the control box, as well as using a ferrite coil around the RS423 Modbus serial connection between the Mach3 PC and the VFD. Now it runs reliably. Got all the bits for my dust filter and about to cut the dust shoe from 10mm perspex. Will post the design and pics soon.

Cheers.
Mike

paulus.v
27-01-2017, 01:40 AM
Dust extraction should be a priority especially if you intend to machine MDF. It uses urea-formaldehyde as a bonding agent and the formaldehyde (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Formaldehyde#Safety) is a proved carcinogen besides other harmful effects.

Just watched your video and it doesn't look good to me with all that fine dust.

njhussey
27-01-2017, 07:26 AM
I did'nt realise how much dust would be created, so the next job will be the creation of a dustboot for the spindle and a cyclone filter system. I initially used my trusty Aldi ash can filter, but it soon got clogged up with the fine MDF dust. It will work better behind a cyclone system.


The cyclone cones you get off eBay are good, just hooked one up to my machine and works brilliantly, I'd highly recommend one Mike.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170127/d009d440018bf6b792c286266bf687f8.jpg

What you see in the bottom of the CamVac (virtually nothing) is after machining plastic for an hour and hoovering wood dust up off the floor.


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MikeyC38
30-01-2017, 01:41 PM
Dust extraction should be a priority especially if you intend to machine MDF. It uses urea-formaldehyde as a bonding agent and the formaldehyde (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Formaldehyde#Safety) is a proved carcinogen besides other harmful effects.

Just watched your video and it doesn't look good to me with all that fine dust.

Hi Paulus & Neil

Great minds do think alike and you are both perfectly correct. Since the video I have'nt done anymore cutting because I realised with the amount dust created just by surfacing, I needed a filtration system. So I ordered a cyclone off Amazon for an amazing price and lots of hose as shown below. I have an old VAX (2000 watts before the EU restrictions!!!) which should do the trick. Also making a dust hood for the spindle based on a design I found on Bjorn Makes YouTube Channel here

20537

MikeyC38
29-03-2017, 09:30 PM
Hi Guys
Following on from the last post, I built my cyclone dust collector, and promptly crushed the barrel, when I put my hand over the end of pipe to check the suction!. Using a hot-air gun, I manged to un-collapse it and restore it's shape. Hunting around on the web, I found a design for a pressure relief value (here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNBxce-HeCw)) and this design here (http://www.tdpri.com/threads/dust-cyclone-you-spin-me-right-round.656843/#post-7089901) using a 40mm PVC straight coupler and a neodymium magnet and it works brilliantly!
see pic 21321

Also, I have started some test cuts for the dust hood (see previous thread for youtube link!) and really pleased with the accuracy of the machine. The inner ring is 70mm dia +- 0.01mm!!
There are a couple of toolpath issues to sort out, but the code from Estlcam worked first time!

21322

I post a video on Youtube later.

Now just have to get the proximity switches working and we are fully done and ready to make chips!

Regards
Mike

MikeyC38
10-04-2017, 12:05 AM
Hi Guys

Sorted out the problem with the toolpath by upgrading to Estlcam v10 and defining the operations in a different order.
The photo attached shows the final dusthood cut from 10mm perspex sheet using a single flute carbide cutter running at 12,000 rpm, 600 - 900mm/min feed and doc of 1-2mm. Took around 1hr for the all operations. The link to Youtube (https://youtu.be/1ymVDZrDbNs)shows the last operations. I'm pleased with the finish of the pocketing. Now to get on with doing some real projects!

Kind Regards
Mike

paulus.v
10-04-2017, 12:50 AM
Nice cut! It looks very similar with my first dust shoe. But now, mine have diameters of 15 to 25 cm calculated for different tools dia so that the hair will not be cut by the tool at any depth. And also dependant of the hair length/ depth of cut.

MikeyC38
18-04-2017, 12:13 AM
Nice cut! It looks very similar with my first dust shoe. But now, mine have diameters of 15 to 25 cm calculated for different tools dia so that the hair will not be cut by the tool at any depth. And also dependant of the hair length/ depth of cut.

Thanks Paulus - here is a picture of it fitted. My first CNC project on this machine!