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suesi34e
11-12-2015, 01:54 AM
Hello all

I am needing a little advise please! I don't know about thread milling. What I am wanting is some blind holes in 316 thread milling to take a m12 thread. Could a 6mm deep hole be thread milled or is that just silly and totally impractical? The thread are just going to be little blanking caps just held on with a bit locktite.

Cheers now

Steve

mekanik
11-12-2015, 07:40 AM
Hi Steve
No logical reason why you can't do it, hole will have to be flat bottom then i would undercut to slightly over thread dia with tool just clear of bottom of hole then run your thread.
Regards
Mike

suesi34e
11-12-2015, 03:58 PM
Hi mekanik
I appreciate you taking the time to reply. It is great that can be done, I am a happy! Had it not have been feasible I would have been in for a pig of job.
Many thanks
Regards
Steve

Clive S
11-12-2015, 04:17 PM
Hello all

I am needing a little advise please! I don't know about thread milling. What I am wanting is some blind holes in 316 thread milling to take a m12 thread. Could a 6mm deep hole be thread milled or is that just silly and totally impractical? The thread are just going to be little blanking caps just held on with a bit locktite.

Cheers now

SteveCould you not just epoxy the caps in? or do they need to be removed?

jamesgates1000
11-12-2015, 04:38 PM
You could also use a roll tap, just interpolate a flat bottom hole first then tap to depth. A roll tap would be cheaper than a thread milling cutter.

komatias
11-12-2015, 05:11 PM
You could also use a roll tap, just interpolate a flat bottom hole first then tap to depth. A roll tap would be cheaper than a thread milling cutter.

Woukd nit fancy my chances of forming M12s in 316, the bugger galls to easily
Be sure to get a threadmill that is big enough to cut the pitch you need. Bought a 6mm one the other day, can only do up to 1mm pitch....:cower:

A larger threadmill will do smaller pitches though may not be able to get into small holes

njhussey
11-12-2015, 06:05 PM
I've been looking into threadmills as it sounds like good sport :stupid:....anyone got a good source for them?

mekanik
11-12-2015, 06:26 PM
Hi Steve
You would be as well doing some test pieces first, as stated Stainless is a bugger.
What's the application ?
Regards
Mike

komatias
11-12-2015, 06:48 PM
Got mine at drill services.

jamesgates1000
11-12-2015, 07:24 PM
I have used thread Mills from wnt or cutwel, both supply quality tools. Roll tapping stainless isn't a problem if you use a good quality roll tap and plenty of rocol.

suesi34e
11-12-2015, 07:55 PM
Hi Clive
Tar very much for the thought. Your question is a good one. I was looking to remove them but that may only be if something fails and the job needs breaking down. I will not dismiss opening the hole up slight larger and getting out the epoxy. Thanks for your help and waves of thought!
Steve

suesi34e
11-12-2015, 07:58 PM
You could also use a roll tap, just interpolate a flat bottom hole first then tap to depth. A roll tap would be cheaper than a thread milling cutter.

Hello tar very much for the thought I will give what you say some consideration.
Cheers Steve

suesi34e
11-12-2015, 08:05 PM
Hello Komatias,
Thank you for your reply. I realize I am not on the direct road for success, with the following
small diameter, shallow blind hole, in 316 no less, limited knowledge and wanting to thread mill it. All that said I may have a go at it.
Thanks
Steve

suesi34e
11-12-2015, 08:08 PM
I've been looking into threadmills as it sounds like good sport :stupid:....anyone got a good source for them?

Hi Neil,
I am not sure so don't quote me on it but I think I got my ones from J&L. I notice you mention thread mills and good sport I notice you don't mention 316 in the same sentence!
I was watching one of your videos earlier in the inspiration thread you build looked to work out a treat for you.
Cheers
Steve

suesi34e
11-12-2015, 08:14 PM
Hi Mike,
Yes thanks for the thought. I will certainly have practise before picking up the finished parts. The parts are for finishing off nicely m12 stud that protrudes a flat surface. Basically, just a blanking cap.
Many thanks
Steve

komatias
11-12-2015, 09:54 PM
Hello Komatias,
Thank you for your reply. I realize I am not on the direct road for success, with the following
small diameter, shallow blind hole, in 316 no less, limited knowledge and wanting to thread mill it. All that said I may have a go at it.
Thanks
Steve

Cool! Was just adding an alternative to the mix with the ground taps. I will be doing some thread milling this weekend but on aluminimu pipe with fine threads M18x1 for my brothers project. Will post findings

suesi34e
11-12-2015, 10:08 PM
Best of luck with that mate. Who know if my findings from my efforts are not too shameful I may post them! After this little job I hope to start a small router build!

njhussey
12-12-2015, 12:11 AM
Hi Neil,
I am not sure so don't quote me on it but I think I got my ones from J&L. I notice you mention thread mills and good sport I notice you don't mention 316 in the same sentence!
I was watching one of your videos earlier in the inspiration thread you build looked to work out a treat for you.
Cheers
Steve
Cheers Steve, so far its all good... Just need to get a week on it to finish it off and start the mounting frame...

Stainless is a bugger as unless you use some form of lube the threads gall and snag when tightening so I can imagine it's a bugger to tap and threadmill!

mekanik
12-12-2015, 09:08 AM
Hi Mike,
The parts are for finishing off nicely m12 stud that protrudes a flat surface. Basically, just a blanking cap.
Many thanks
Steve

Steve i know this is a silly question but is it not possible to measure the stud protrusion , remove the stud and machine the protruding length from the end ?
Mike

suesi34e
13-12-2015, 10:11 PM
Cheers Steve, so far its all good... Just need to get a week on it to finish it off and start the mounting frame...

Stainless is a bugger as unless you use some form of lube the threads gall and snag when tightening so I can imagine it's a bugger to tap and threadmill!

Yes mate, it is a bugger in my book especially when not best geared up for it!
Congrats on your build happy CNCing
Steve

suesi34e
13-12-2015, 10:20 PM
Hi Mike,
Tar very much for the thought and I don't think it is a silly question! I had tried to see it is was possible. Had I have known to cut the stud down prior to the whole assembly being welded up I could have. As for now I don't think I can get on the stud in anyway to cut it down it protrudes up through a large flat plate that is mirror polished so easy to scratch etc. I think I will just look a slightly larger pocket to hug the threads and stick it on like you said.
Tar very much for the help
Steve

mekanik
13-12-2015, 10:31 PM
hi Steve
Have you thought about using stainless dome nuts that you would fit on a cylinder head, maybe thin them down a bit.

andy_con
14-12-2015, 12:23 PM
i own 3x tapmatic tappings head, but since switching to thread mills ive not used the tapping heads once.

thread mills are ace, the best thing ever.

granted i use m2 and m3 threadmills in ally, but i always get good results.

what you could try is altering the dia of the threadmill in the coding setup, so do a few passes getting deeper (or wider, till you reach the tools actual dia) and deeper till you have taken the correct amount of material off. the good thing with thread mills is you dont have to take the full depth of cut in one go.

hope this helps

suesi34e
14-12-2015, 10:07 PM
Hi mekanik
Thank you very much for the thought. I tried a dome nut but I just didn't suit the look of the parts so I moved away from it. I think after a good bit of figuring out I am getting there with the caps.
Many thanks
Steve


hi Steve
Have you thought about using stainless dome nuts that you would fit on a cylinder head, maybe thin them down a bit.

suesi34e
14-12-2015, 10:12 PM
Hi andy_con
I like the idea of the thread mills and thank you very much for you advice. I just hope I don't go wrong a break a tool I don't have too many of them!
Many thanks
Steve



i own 3x tapmatic tappings head, but since switching to thread mills ive not used the tapping heads once.

thread mills are ace, the best thing ever.

granted i use m2 and m3 threadmills in ally, but i always get good results.

what you could try is altering the dia of the threadmill in the coding setup, so do a few passes getting deeper (or wider, till you reach the tools actual dia) and deeper till you have taken the correct amount of material off. the good thing with thread mills is you dont have to take the full depth of cut in one go.

hope this helps

andy_con
14-12-2015, 10:18 PM
Like I say do it in a couple of passes.

Make the treadmills dia bigger and you will only take a small amount of material away. Reduce the dia and you will start to take more material away.

Very simple


Hi andy_con
I like the idea of the thread mills and thank you very much for you advice. I just hope I don't go wrong a break a tool I don't have too many of them!
Many thanks
Steve

suesi34e
15-12-2015, 10:44 AM
Hi Andy,
Thank you for your help. I will see what I can do not sure how simple it will be!
Many thanks
Steve



Like I say do it in a couple of passes.

Make the treadmills dia bigger and you will only take a small amount of material away. Reduce the dia and you will start to take more material away.

Very simple

andy_con
15-12-2015, 11:21 AM
Very simple, spec sheet will give you exact dia of threadmill so just make it bigger

suesi34e
15-12-2015, 12:03 PM
Many thanks for the help and advice.