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valdis034
11-01-2016, 09:09 PM
Hello everyone. I am here completely new, but thinking of building a cnc for a while. I had built small router from mdf sheet and drawer slides, so now i want to go for more accuracy.. :)

My aim is to build a machine with this working area: x1500 y1000 and z20 or 30. Not really sure about the Z. As I am now in a early designing stage all the advices are really apreciated. Main frame is going to be from 80/40 and 40/40 aluminium profiles. It will be used for wood cutting, plastic, mdf sheets and similar materials. Thinking about chinese 1605 ballscrews which I see are quite widely used, rails and blocks will be 15mm hiwin. Spindle is going to be water cooled 1.5kW or 2.2kW . Steppers nema 23.

My big question for now is from which width should be used two ballscrews on the longest axis instead of one ballscrew in the middle? I am worried about it can start to wiggle a bit, which off course will affect accuracy. All the sizes of ballscrews, rails steppers and spindle are still considered, it is not my final decision. I found on internet a cnc with the same structure as I am thinking to build, so now you have rough vision what I am speaking about :) Thank you very much!!
17196171951719417197

njhussey
12-01-2016, 11:06 AM
Hi and welcome to the forum!!

for the size of machine you're looking to build then twin ballscrews are a must, at 1000mm wide cutting (at least 1300mm wide gantry) you'll get racking when cutting off centre with just one central ballscrew. For a 1500mm cutting area you'll need to look at the size of ballscrew you need to use as at this length you're right on the edge of ballscrew whip when cutting fast with 1610 ballscrews (what most people use as they give you the speed you need for plastics and wood) so will probably need to go up to 2010 (20mm diameter) ballscrews which will most probably need Nema34 steppers to overcome the inertia of the ballscrew.

Have a look through the build logs in this section of the forum and inwardly digest all the information that's there, knock up a design and we'll all comment on it and help you :eagerness:

valdis034
13-01-2016, 02:22 PM
Thanks for the answer. What could be better to drive those two ballscrews with seperate motors, or put one motor in the middle and drive both screws with a belt? and if we run each screw with separate motor so this means we need adittional driver, or it will be enough one driver which has enough power to handle the current of both motors?

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Clive S
13-01-2016, 04:28 PM
Thanks for the answer. What could be better to drive those two ballscrews with seperate motors, or put one motor in the middle and drive both screws with a belt? and if we run each screw with separate motor so this means we need adittional driver, or it will be enough one driver which has enough power to handle the current of both motors?

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Well that debate has been going on for a long time and both ways have there pro's & con's. If using one motor it normally needs to be bigger and generally a higher voltage on the drive. But you only need one homing switch on one side.

Using two motors you will need two drives and two homing switches to make sure the gantry is square and good drives with stall detect in case one motor stalls and tries to rack the gantry.

It is not a good idea to use one drive with two motors.

Both systems if correctly done work fine.

routercnc
13-01-2016, 07:24 PM
Welcome to the forum.

My experience is 600mm is the maximum width for single central ballscrew. Even then you have to be mindful of hard cuts at the ends of the travel, but in general it's fine. Above that it is double ballscrew all the way (or drive from each side anyway).

As Clive mentions single or double motors will work. Draw it out and take your pick. I like double motors as then you can buy lots of the same motor spec and driver and use them on every axis. Not a strong reason, but can make things simpler.

Something to point out is that in post #1 the last picture (5-8.jpg) shows a better machine in the top corner with double ballscrew drive. This will cut wood and plastic well, but you can go a step further than this and remove the gantry sides (weak point) and raise the X axis rails up to meet the gantry cross beam. Use a series of legs to support the raised X axis connected back down to the bed and for not much extra effort you will have a much better machine.

Good luck with the project . . .

valdis034
03-02-2016, 09:14 PM
Hi again. After a I while now i am going to put my free time into designing as much as possible. For now i have just several main extrusions with rails and blocks on them. Now want to start to count what exact lenght I need of extrusions, where to place rails and ballscrews, which is quite confusing to start with. I am considering if it is worth to buy custom made rails and ballscrews lenght to my exact dimensions, or it is cheaper to have a bit smaller work area than I wrote in my first post and to go with standard lenght which is 1500mm and 1000mm? I mean how expensive it can be to have those lenghts of rails and ballscrews at those dimensions, which could let me have exact 1500x1000 work area.

Here is the picture how it looks at the moment.
17508

All the corners i am going to join with 90 degree L shape brackets. Do i Need the legs? If yes, then probably it would be nice idea to have a pair of legs in the middle yes?
Thanks a lot! :)

valdis034
08-02-2016, 11:15 AM
Lots of views no comments, ok probably i need to bring my design without initial questions. Thats what i will do :)

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njhussey
08-02-2016, 03:34 PM
Hi, sorry didn't see this thread pop up again! You'll definitely need legs in the middle and you'll need cross bracing. Depending on what your bed is going to be made of you'll probably need more cross bed supports...

JAZZCNC
08-02-2016, 05:42 PM
Yes Sorry I didn't see this thread at all.!!

The machine design you are thinking to build is very similair to routers I build. I can tell you without doubt that you will need stronger than 80x45 to give the cutting area want at this length. 120 x 80 is what i'd use or at minimum 80 x 80.
With correct profile you won't need middle leg and infact you can't have middle legs with this design because of the cross brace between gantry.

The base will need at least one more support. Cross bracing isn't strictly required because the bed base forms part of the structure but it wouldn't hurt having some just to hold resonably square.

valdis034
08-02-2016, 06:37 PM
I am not so used to this machine terminology, but cross bracing in my case are these aluminium extrusions which are joining longest (x) axis, yes?
And if i understand right i cant have middle legs because that cross brace between gantry, but that aplies only for single ballscrew on x axis. I am going to have two ballscrews on x axis driven with belts by separate motors.
The bed probably i will have several 4040 extrusions attached to the main frame, and on those extrusions i think should be good to have sacrificial plywood or mdf.

Does that sound good?

And sorry for my terminology, i promise i will get used to that! :)

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JAZZCNC
08-02-2016, 08:19 PM
I am not so used to this machine terminology, but cross bracing in my case are these aluminium extrusions which are joining longest (x) axis, yes?
And if i understand right i cant have middle legs because that cross brace between gantry, but that aplies only for single ballscrew on x axis. I am going to have two ballscrews on x axis driven with belts by separate motors.

YES. But 2 screws will mean having them on the outside where they are unprotected from Debris. The Cross brace allows you to keep them under the table out the way.


The bed probably i will have several 4040 extrusions attached to the main frame, and on those extrusions i think should be good to have sacrificial plywood or mdf.

Does that sound good?

No 40 x 40 isn't strong enough really you want 80 x 40 for the bed supports. Or at least two with 40 x40 filling the in betweens.

valdis034
10-02-2016, 12:20 AM
Yes, so today i changed a profile size, and added extrusions as cross braces and as a bed, on which should go plywood, and added adjustable legs. Not sure how it is better to do with middle legs, if i want keep ballscrews under the bed, it means i cant have them in the middle. On the other hand seen a lot designs with screws on the sides, what is better?
About taking screens in solidworks, i take them view>screen capture>image capture and then paste into paint and the quality of pictures when i upload them here doesnt seem as good as seen in other threads, thats the way it should be done or there are some other ways ? Cheers! :)1757317574

JAZZCNC
10-02-2016, 11:07 AM
Much much better. Could drop one 40x40 from each section if wanted. Less drilling and material for not much loss of support.
The main difference with screws under bed is they are obviously more protected from debris. This may seem a little detail but in practise it does make big difference to life span of screws and to some smaller degree performance because they don't get clogged with debris.

valdis034
11-02-2016, 10:44 PM
Thank you for you replies! :) Now i need to position rails and ballscrews on x (longest) axis. To do that i think is good to start from side plates then i see where to put rails and screws. Aswell thinking about thicknes of the plate, 20mm would be enough?

I am going to use wide bocks. Wondering what distance should be between them. The lenght of block is 61.4mm if i add 27.2mm between them it will be 150mm. So if am using 1500mm rails the usable travel distance will be 1350mm. Maybe i need bigger gap between the blocks or maybe even smaller? 17579

Here are my corners, should be allright? 17580
I could use anchors, like these 17581 or even combination of 90 degree angle and anchors under them? Lots of thoughts how to start everything and put together, so sorry if all those questions sound silly :)

njhussey
11-02-2016, 11:34 PM
Most on here use a distance of about 200mm for the carriages, not sure if there is any scientific reasoning but 200mm seems a good compromise between compactness and giving a sound footing for the gantry.

The other thing you need to bear in mind is not having your spindle dangling too far in front of the front bearing, keep it as close to the gantry as possible. In an ideal world you'd have it between the bearings but then you'd lose cutting area as the gantry would be wide....

valdis034
23-03-2016, 11:17 PM
Hello again. Now I am on Z axis design and I am thinking for which pulleys to go. As I found in a lot of threads that htd pulleys of 15mm wide and 5mm pitch are the most common, how many teeth should be? On RM1610 ballscrews it will be mounted with grub screws yes? Thinking how to mount the motor for z axis, we want z axis plates as short as possible. Yes? Here is what i have for the moment..
18009
18010
18011
18012
18013
I am going for a bit smaller size than said in the beggining. Now I am using 1400mm length rail (x axis) and get 1190mm of travel from it leaving 5mm each end unused, in Y axis using 1150mm lenght rail and get 940mm of travel, the same using 5mm each end. Should I leave more in the ends?

All the plates seen in screenshots are 20mm thickness except motor mounting brackets and y axis ballnut housing attachment to z axis.

Thank you for any input! :beer:

valdis034
19-07-2016, 11:15 PM
Hello again after a while. Had some interruptions, broken computer, but i am back again with in my opinion more or less final design. Mainly i am going to use it for woodworking, and hopefuly i will be able to machine aluminium at low speed. 2.2kW water cooled spindle should be capable doing that?

Lets start from main dimensions.

X(longer) axis. 1400mm lenght Hiwin 20mm rails with HGW20CC carriages. 200mm between carriages ends. It gives 1190mm of travel leaving unused 5mm of rail each end.

Y(shorter) axis. 1170mm lenght Hiwin 20mm rails with HGW20CC carriages. 200mm between cariages ends. It gives 970mm of travel leaving unused 5mm of rail each end.

Z axis. 330mm lenght Hiwin 20mm rails with HGH20CA carriages. 178mm between carriages ends. It gives 133mm of travel leaving unused 9mm rail each end.

The frame, legs, and gantry is from 80x80 extrusion. Frame cross bracing is 40x80 extrusion.

All the plates are 20mm thickness except Y axis ballnut housing connection plate (which is 10mm thickness) with Y and Z axis assembly.

For bed i iam going to use 20mm plywood sheet.

Have 4 adjustable feets in all corners. Do i need in the middle aswell?


1888918890188911889218893


All extrussions will be clamped with 50x50x3 steel brackets:

18894

I am using 1610 ballscrews for X and Y axis, and 1605 for Z axis. Pulleys on all screws are htd 15mm wide 5mm pitch. Have 20mm slots for belt tensioning, and for ability to go for different gear ratios. I see that these pulleys are most comonly used. Are they the best option for me?
188951889618897


The question if it is enough of shaft inside the pulleys? With standard ballscrew end machining it doesnt go trough all the pulleys bore. I left 1mm gap between pulley and BK block. The same with motor, 1mm gap pulley and motors bracket.
1889818899


Here it is at its max position in X axis:
18906


And about Z axis. I have sandwitched ballscrew and mounting blocks between the plates so I have 9mm cutout in the front plate.
18901


Z axis motor is angled because with sraight slots motor spacer was in belts way. So now the belt is going right between the spacers.
1890218903

Another question is what spindles positioning is the best? Here Z axis is all the way up:
18904

And all the way down:
18905


Whats still left to do:

1. To decide which exact litmit sensors to use so i can desing them into the assembly.
2. To route energy chains routes, to have a trunking for them.
3. To design rail dust guards.

Before ordering all the mechanical parts would like to get some comments from all you. Maybe there are some weak points, or something. There is always something can be done better, so others can see it better.

I Dont have any parts bought yet, except i have high indtuctance stepper motor from my previous build and tb6550 drivers with BOB which i am not sure if to use them.

Thanks!

Clive S
19-07-2016, 11:34 PM
I Dont have any parts bought yet, except i have high indtuctance stepper motor from my previous build and tb6550 drivers with BOB which i am not sure if to use them.
You would cripple the machine if you used them. Have a look for AM882 drives and nema 23 motors from Zapp or CNC4you.

Re the screws you will probably requite the F dimension to be about 30mm it doesn't cost much more to do it right.

valdis034
20-07-2016, 10:30 PM
I changed ballscrews shaft to 30mm in it is sticking out a bit. And I saw quite a lot people are making it from 15mm to 30mm. It is not a standard? They can do any dimension i like or not?
And how about motor shaft? I could cut out a bit depper in the bracket but it will start to loose its strenght, isnt it? At the moment i am using 10mm plate and motor is 5mm in it. Do i need to go deeper?

How deep it is:

18910

Clive S
21-07-2016, 12:12 AM
I changed ballscrews shaft to 30mm in it is sticking out a bit. And I saw quite a lot people are making it from 15mm to 30mm. It is not a standard? They can do any dimension i like or not?
And how about motor shaft? I could cut out a bit depper in the bracket but it will start to loose its strenght, isnt it? At the moment i am using 10mm plate and motor is 5mm in it. Do i need to go deeper?

How deep it is:

18910The conventional way is like this 18911so the the motor will stick through. The motor shafts are normally OK. 2-3mm is OK

valdis034
21-07-2016, 11:30 PM
I opened the bracket the same like you showed me, but i still have 8mm left. I checked motors dimensions and pulleys dimensions all seems ok. Where that difference could come from? Maybe you are using different pulley?
18921

Clive S
21-07-2016, 11:52 PM
I opened the bracket the same like you showed me, but i still have 8mm left. I checked motors dimensions and pulleys dimensions all seems ok. Where that difference could come from? Maybe you are using different pulley?
18921

The shaft on a nema 23 from Cnc4you is about 22.5mm long.

valdis034
22-07-2016, 12:06 AM
The one in my drawing is 20.6 mm and it is exactly the same like in any drawing you could find on internet with nema 23 dimdnsions. Double standard?

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Clive S
22-07-2016, 12:08 AM
The one in my drawing is 20.6 mm and it is exactly the same like in any drawing you could find on internet with nema 23 dimdnsions. Double standard?

Išsiųsta naudojantis SM-G900F Tapatalk 4 LtIs your measurement just to the end of the key in the shaft?

http://cnc4you.co.uk/resources/Stepper%20Motor%20Nema%2023%2060BYGH301B%203.1Nm.p df

routercnc
22-07-2016, 07:43 AM
My motor shafts don't go all the way through the pulley and have been running fine for years.

If it is more than half way into the pulley and the grub screws have a good lock onto the shaft I don't see any major problems.

njhussey
22-07-2016, 01:22 PM
Just looked at my Z axis and it looks a little like this.....

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/4ee73d2a56d52fd77fa14d717ca50bda.jpg

Shaft is 3/4 the way in the pulley and held on with 2 off M3 grub screws @ 90 to each other...

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/10395e153f23d9dc586eb5bf67805a6d.jpg

Plate thickness is 3mm so 17mm pocket machined out the plate.

valdis034
22-07-2016, 01:30 PM
So do we actually need that thickness of a plate if anyway we are machining almost all the through the thickness?

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njhussey
22-07-2016, 02:06 PM
It has to have some inherent stiffness to stop any bending forces from the belt, I had it 20mm thick as it came out the same sheet as the rest and I needed the thickness to put the M8 bolts into....

valdis034
22-07-2016, 02:09 PM
So in my case i have it 10mm and attaching it to the other plate with M6 screws. Is that allright?

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valdis034
25-07-2016, 11:12 AM
Is there any chance that somehow i have blocked my posts, so others cant see it? The same with massages? Or people just doesnt respond as much as i would like? :D

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Clive S
25-07-2016, 11:53 AM
Is there any chance that somehow i have blocked my posts, so others cant see it? The same with massages? Or people just doesnt respond as much as i would like? :D

Isiųsta naudojantis SM-G900F Tapatalk 4 LtNo your posts are fine and not blocked. But it is not easy to answer a question without more details of what you are trying to achieve.

valdis034
25-07-2016, 12:24 PM
In which point you would need more details? Just let me know. I tried to give screenshots of every important point, but if there is something you would like to see i can put them in here.

How about the whole frame structure, z axis and things like that?

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Clive S
25-07-2016, 02:02 PM
In which point you would need more details? Just let me know. I tried to give screenshots of every important point, but if there is something you would like to see i can put them in here.

How about the whole frame structure, z axis and things like that?

Isiųsta naudojantis SM-G900F Tapatalk 4 LtDo I detect sarcasm ?

So in my case i have it 10mm and attaching it to the other plate with M6 screws. Is that allright? What is the other plate.?


Is your measurement just to the end of the key in the shaft?

http://cnc4you.co.uk/resources/Stepp...1B%203.1Nm.pdf (http://cnc4you.co.uk/resources/Stepper%20Motor%20Nema%2023%2060BYGH301B%203.1Nm.p df)
You don't give feedback

valdis034
25-07-2016, 02:15 PM
No. No sarcasm at all i cant understand why you spoted it in there. It is all good! :)

My "other" plate is the one on which is going motors mounting plate and both of them are making 90 degree angle. And whole this assemble is mounted onto the leg.

About the shafts in my model they are the round ones whitout key. So i will go for the key shaft for longer shaft and better grip for grub screws.


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JAZZCNC
25-07-2016, 02:40 PM
Valdis in Reply to your PM then can't see any major issues with the design. Couple of small suggestions but other than these nothing seriously wrong.

#1 I would brace the connection between bearing plate and gantry side.

#2 Would bring the rails on the Gantry to front slot to lessen the lever affect.

njhussey
25-07-2016, 02:51 PM
Is there any chance that somehow i have blocked my posts, so others cant see it? The same with massages? Or people just doesnt respond as much as i would like? :D

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I, for one, haven't replied because I've been away since my last post and then spent all weekend stripping out an old caravan back to bare walls I've recently bought plus welding up the frame to get my CNC router upright at last :D

valdis034
25-07-2016, 10:14 PM
Valdis in Reply to your PM then can't see any major issues with the design. Couple of small suggestions but other than these nothing seriously wrong.

#1 I would brace the connection between bearing plate and gantry side.

#2 Would bring the rails on the Gantry to front slot to lessen the lever affect.

#1 If I move rails to the front slot i will have bigger gap between gantry and Z axis back plate (at the moment it is 3mm) if I am using wide carriages. Maybe i could use the narrow ones the same like on Z axis?

#2 How i could brace that connection? I have some of these so i could use them.
18930
They are 40x40 and 6mm thickness.

OR this version?
18931

JAZZCNC
25-07-2016, 11:40 PM
#1 If I move rails to the front slot i will have bigger gap between gantry and Z axis back plate (at the moment it is 3mm) if I am using wide carriages. Maybe i could use the narrow ones the same like on Z axis?

I was going from your pics which looked like wide gap between z rear plate and gantry profile. Without seeing better view then can't comment further.


#2 How i could brace that connection? I have some of these so i could use them.
They are 40x40 and 6mm thickness.

No wouldn't use those and would go with something like your second option.

valdis034
25-07-2016, 11:54 PM
Here it is. Between narrow carriage and gantry profile side is only 2mm gap, and the same dimension for wide one is 11.5mm. So the question is if I benefit a lot from wide carriages?
1893218933

valdis034
03-08-2016, 11:59 PM
Some small update from me :)
During last days as i been advised moved Y axis rails to the front slot, then made a bit smaller plate on which going Z axis motor so saved some unnecesary weight. Now trying to find out the cable routes..

For the cables and water pipes on the gantry I done a channel from 1mm sheet metal just to see how it looks. Not sure if it will be strong enough to hold the chain.. Any suggestions on that?

1897918980

Started to look for the companies which does aluminuum extrusions, got some quotes. The best price for all the extrusions seen in my model was 340, which is bit more than i expected, but i guess thats the price for them. Does anyone knows a good supplier for them where i could get for the best price? Thanks guys.

valdis034
17-10-2016, 11:06 PM
Hi. Here is what Fred wrot to me: Please attention the BK12 support we quota to you are in cheaper type with normal Deep groove ball bearing,if you prefer better quality BK12,we have P5 grade with Angular contact bearing type,seems many customers from UK are like this superior type,if change to P5 AC bearing type,the amount will be increase USD58.00 for the 4set.

Which one you would take? I seen somewhere talking about them cant find now.


Got quotes from aluminium warehouse for my aluminium plates, is it about right?


10mm plate

80 x 67 2pcs 6082 4.10 ea tooling 5.46 ea
80 x 80 4pcs 6082 6.58 ea tooling 8.75 ea
80 x 40 1pc 6082 2.85 ea tooling 3.75 ea
114 x 120 1pc 6082 10.76 ea tooling 14.32 ea
87 x 87 4pcs 6082 6.58 ea tooling 8.75 ea
45 x 60 1pc 6082 2.40 ea tooling 3.20 ea
50 x 60 1pc 6082 2.00 ea tooling 4.20 ea

20mm plate

200 x 67 2pc 6082 26.30 ea tooling 35.00 ea
200 x 50 1pc 6082 16.40 ea tooling 21.81 ea

25mm plate

45 x 60 2pcs 6082 6.00 ea tooling 7.98 ea
50 x 60 2pcs 6082 6.58 ea tooling 8.75 ea
Cariage 22.30

JAZZCNC
17-10-2016, 11:13 PM
Yes go with the P5 AC bearings they are far superior and worth the extra cost.

toenee12345
18-10-2016, 01:26 PM
Hi valdis34, can I ask you a couple of questions on the material suppliers?

Where are you getting your aluminium slotted profile from?

It says 'tooling' on the quote for plates, are they machining them to your drawings ie holes faces etc ?

Many thanks
Tony....

valdis034
18-10-2016, 09:40 PM
Hi. There are quite a lot of companies here in UK which are doing extrusions. Did not buy them yet, but probably it will be company called Alprofil.

No, i will get all those pieces from the quote only cut to size, and will drill them myself. Aswell I will need some plates to be machined.

njhussey
18-10-2016, 11:05 PM
Those Aluminium prices seem high, but I guess I'm used to prices from my local supplier Taybroh Alloys in Eastington, Gloucestershire...might be worth giving them a ring to see if they will send to you?

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

valdis034
18-10-2016, 11:10 PM
Yeah anything thats helps to reduce the price.. Found local machinist guy, so he will give me a quote for them in a next few days. Want to finally actualy start building it!

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valdis034
20-10-2016, 11:16 AM
Did someone bought linear parts from aliexpres sellers the jason august store, huijuan mei or transmission cnc? They are quoting a bit cheper..

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mekanik
20-10-2016, 02:27 PM
Hi Valdis
You must have got the same email as i did this morning, @ least the seller is quoting genuine Hiwin. A lot of the sellers will show Hiwin in there add but if you check the description it says picture is just for general information and the supplied item will prevail so chances are they won't be Hiwin.
Regards
Mike

valdis034
31-10-2016, 09:16 PM
Which spindle bracket is better? Thinking if they will have the same strenght?

This one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dia-80mm-Spindle-Motor-Mount-Bracket-Clamp-2-Screws-For-CNC-Engraving-Machine/361688576801?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%2 6asc%3D38661%26meid%3D56c921b95edc42d3b1a26f43372a 2e91%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D3222 25414288

or this one


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80mm-Diameter-CNC-Spindle-Motor-Holder-Mount-Bracket-Clamp-3-Pcs-8mm-screws/322063894075?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%2 6asc%3D38661%26meid%3Deb20706e3ad14fb599cfef387f14 d430%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D3222 25414288

Davek0974
31-10-2016, 09:18 PM
Should be the same I think.

Lee Roberts
01-11-2016, 12:03 AM
Which spindle bracket is better? Thinking if they will have the same strenght?

This one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dia-80mm-Spindle-Motor-Mount-Bracket-Clamp-2-Screws-For-CNC-Engraving-Machine/361688576801?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%2 6asc%3D38661%26meid%3D56c921b95edc42d3b1a26f43372a 2e91%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D3222 25414288

or this one


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80mm-Diameter-CNC-Spindle-Motor-Holder-Mount-Bracket-Clamp-3-Pcs-8mm-screws/322063894075?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%2 6asc%3D38661%26meid%3Deb20706e3ad14fb599cfef387f14 d430%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D3222 25414288
The second link/item is the one to go for.

A_Camera
01-11-2016, 12:37 PM
Which spindle bracket is better? Thinking if they will have the same strenght?

This one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dia-80mm-Spindle-Motor-Mount-Bracket-Clamp-2-Screws-For-CNC-Engraving-Machine/361688576801?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%2 6asc%3D38661%26meid%3D56c921b95edc42d3b1a26f43372a 2e91%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D3222 25414288

or this one


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80mm-Diameter-CNC-Spindle-Motor-Holder-Mount-Bracket-Clamp-3-Pcs-8mm-screws/322063894075?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%2 6asc%3D38661%26meid%3Deb20706e3ad14fb599cfef387f14 d430%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D3222 25414288

Definitely the second one, but beware, even that can crack.

19521

http://adapting-camera.blogspot.se/2016/09/cnc-upgrade-progress-disaster-strikes.html

(http://adapting-camera.blogspot.se/2016/09/cnc-upgrade-progress-disaster-strikes.html)This is how I fixed it:

http://adapting-camera.blogspot.se/2016/09/cnc-upgrade-progress-fixing-cracked.html

Anyway, I bought a new one but have not installed it yet and I think the quality is the same. Cast aluminum, at least the way these cheap brackets are made, are not the best for this purpose.

njhussey
01-11-2016, 06:51 PM
I'd buy a SBR50UU and use the housing as it's 80mm and slit along one side to clamp the spindle....

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valdis034
01-11-2016, 08:55 PM
Thanks guys, placed an order for second option. We will see how it will hold.

Today got my spindle and was surprised to find 3pin plug for it. Isnt it supposed to be 4pins ( three phases and earth)?
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/78da8b70b479cfe74737ebcd0f10bde5.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/43faa7c00c0996b11ef5554a09fb8289.jpg
Another thing the locking nut has been drilled, is that they way they tried to balance it? Is it normal?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/cf0960cf2eea1e1f97392b2aea8f9f54.jpg

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Davek0974
01-11-2016, 09:06 PM
exactly the same as mine.

yes the drill holes are their attempt at balancing the lock nut.

Mine only has three pins - i connected the earth ground to the shell of the plug and tested for connectivity to the body, the whole machine is earthed anyway and the motor has a metal body so should be safe enough.

valdis034
01-11-2016, 09:48 PM
Off course with spindle got the inverter and have the electrical box, thinking that box might be a bit small for all the stuff..
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/2444398b3b322553ad38d04c649fdeb9.jpg

what size enclosures you have to fit everything?

Here will be 4 drivers, BOB, toroidal transformer, 24v supply, realays, filtered fan on the door or on the side of the box and some wires..

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Davek0974
01-11-2016, 09:52 PM
going to be tight i think, i like a bit more room - makes setting up/debugging/repairs easier IMHO.

njhussey
01-11-2016, 10:22 PM
I've got a 600 x 600 panel and its tight enough without the vfd in there....

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valdis034
01-11-2016, 10:26 PM
This one is only 600380. So yes, need to look for something bigger.

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Lee Roberts
01-11-2016, 10:57 PM
I always tell people to get a 6x9...some listen...some dont.

JAZZCNC
01-11-2016, 11:42 PM
Word of warning on the VFD that is not a Huanyang VFD it's copy. So don't try setting it up from any settings found on here because they will relate to huanyang which is completely different.

I have fitted one in the past and it worked fine without any troubles but I wouldn't and won't fit anymore because the huanyang are much better, which is saying lot because they are not exactly top quality however they just do the job.!

If can send it back then I would or at least complain and ask for some compensation which is what I did. They refunded me some money because all the pictures showed Huanyang VFD but I think they have changed the pictures now so maybe nothing can do.?

valdis034
01-11-2016, 11:59 PM
Word of warning on the VFD that is not a Huanyang VFD it's copy. So don't try setting it up from any settings found on here because they will relate to huanyang which is completely different.

I have fitted one in the past and it worked fine without any troubles but I wouldn't and won't fit anymore because the huanyang are much better, which is saying lot because they are not exactly top quality however they just do the job.!

If can send it back then I would or at least complain and ask for some compensation which is what I did. They refunded me some money because all the pictures showed Huanyang VFD but I think they have changed the pictures now so maybe nothing can do.?
The thing is that it doesnt say that it is huanyang in the advert, so i dont know if i can say it now for the seller. The only difference i see is the colour of the warning sticker, to which i did not pay attention at all if that is the sign of huanyang.. Here is the one i bought:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191914498581


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JAZZCNC
02-11-2016, 12:32 AM
The only difference i see is the colour of the warning sticker, to which i did not pay attention at all if that is the sign of huanyang..

Yes the case is exactly the same but other than that it's nothing like Huanyang. Completely different setup and if you look all the I/O terminals are different.
If I remember correctly the Analog 0-10v isn't isolated from rest of I/O. Also No on board Relay and possibly only 12V output not 24V but could be wrong on this it's been good while now since fitted it. It also won't display RPM only Frequency and Current I believe.

But like I say it worked fine and believe it still is so wouldn't be too concerned. But I'm fitting huanyang Vfd's all the time and can tell you 100% it's not huanyang and didn't want you trying to set it up like Huanyang.!! . . . . Only the case looks like it the rest is nothing like huanyang.

Clive S
02-11-2016, 12:35 AM
The only difference i see is the colour of the warning stickerplus the legends on the front panel are all different. But don't worry about it, It will work fine just make sure as Dean has said to only using the parameters in the manual you should get with it.:02.47-tranquillity:

valdis034
07-11-2016, 11:04 PM
Can i expect from equal aluminium angle 90 degrees on the outside? I was so sure that is 90 degree, so even did not check it when was buying it today. Took it home decided to check the squareness it and it is less than 90 degress.. Tried to google it out, and here is what i found: "A 90-degree angle is certainly the most commonplace for aluminium angle stock, but there are products which have less than a 90-degree bend".
So maybe i was lucky to get that with smaller angle or it is common not to have proper 90 degrees angle? I saw someone was using those angles in this forum to bolt together the frame, wondering if there were some issues with that?