Where to buy from sound and led 1/2" shank or ER25 edge finder, ?

[Boyan Silyavski]

Where to buy from 1/2" shank or ER25 led sound probe? With ball at the point,steel ball and body, and that does not cost arm and leg?

i see a lot of cheap ones but 20mm shank. Any idea some one? i searched a lot but could not find something under 100. At the same time the 20mm ones are darn cheap

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjAwWDYwMA==/z/cfsAAOSwsFpWToEh/$_57.JPG?set_id=880000500F

[lucan07]

Smallest I have seen was a 16mm on aliexpress, doesn't er25 go to a 15/16mm collet seen a few sets that included 16mm. I think ER20 1-13 and ER25 1-16mm
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-HOT-SALE-CNC-Tool-Electronic-Optical-edge-finder-LED-Sound-16mmX120mm-Shank-probe-10/760383870.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.1.anuleC&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_100 37_10034_10033_507_10032_10020_10017_10005_10006_1 0021_10022_10009_10008_10018_10019,searchweb201603 _2&btsid=b79b756b-73e1-4082-a1f6-2c7884a1942b

[magicniner]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Borite-Machinist-Mate-Electronic-Edge-Finder-MM1-USA-G12-/131368171077

- Nick

[magicniner]

Close but no cigar -

http://www.teng.co.uk/4200-125-metric-electronic-edge-finder.html

[komatias]

I have 2 of the 20mm shank ones. Not worth the effort... they are hardly any better than a trusty edgefinder. My issue with them is that they are so long that they run out all the time. The only way they make sense is if you have ISO40 ISO50 size taper tooling and you get then set up correctly.

The only other one I have seen was an american made one with an LED inside it. 10-12mm shank exactly like the link to Teng above

[Boyan Silyavski]

Smallest I have seen was a 16mm on aliexpress, doesn't er25 go to a 15/16mm collet seen a few sets that included 16mm. I think ER20 1-13 and ER25 1-16mm
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-HOT-SALE-CNC-Tool-Electronic-Optical-edge-finder-LED-Sound-16mmX120mm-Shank-probe-10/760383870.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.1.anuleC&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_100 37_10034_10033_507_10032_10020_10017_10005_10006_1 0021_10022_10009_10008_10018_10019,searchweb201603 _2&btsid=b79b756b-73e1-4082-a1f6-2c7884a1942b


yes, sorry, ER20 collet. so 1/2 max


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Borite-Machinist-Mate-Electronic-Edge-Finder-MM1-USA-G12-/131368171077

- Nick


That one is ok but no ball. If mistakenly turn hanle to the other side could be damaged. But seems no other choice for now. Anyway, it's for my small mill, which i use for drilling. So i need it to find faster the edges




I have 2 of the 20mm shank ones. Not worth the effort... they are hardly any better than a trusty edgefinder. My issue with them is that they are so long that they run out all the time. The only way they make sense is if you have ISO40 ISO50 size taper tooling and you get then set up correctly.

The only other one I have seen was an american made one with an LED inside it. 10-12mm shank exactly like the link to Teng above

I have seen that one, the american, with the ball, but is expensive.

I was wondering the same thing though, if a Starrett edge finder would be better and more reliable. But as i said, on the CNC i have the MachStdMill screen set which is much better than any edge finder

[magicniner]

How about this?
I bought the UK one above and made a push-fit ball adapter.
I used 01 Tool Steel for the sleeve, a 6mm Stainless Ball Bearing for the ball, a bit of spring wire I had laying around for the spring and spring retaining pin.
The spring is soldered to the bearing, I used a big old fashioned flame heated 1lb copper soldering iron and Killed Spirits for flux. Cleaning the excess solder off with a file doesn't touch the bearing and a quick polish on a coarse wheel cleans off any residual surface solder.
I've made the spring a little strong but it will do for now and the main bit is that it works rather well and I'm not scared of hitting the work with it ;-)

- Nick

[Boyan Silyavski]

Now thats what we are talking about! Great idea!

[Lee Roberts]

How about this?
I bought the UK one above and made a push-fit ball adapter.
I used 01 Tool Steel for the sleeve, a 6mm Stainless Ball Bearing for the ball, a bit of spring wire I had laying around for the spring and spring retaining pin.
The spring is soldered to the bearing, I used a big old fashioned flame heated 1lb copper soldering iron and Killed Spirits for flux. Cleaning the excess solder off with a file doesn't touch the bearing and a quick polish on a coarse wheel cleans off any residual surface solder.
I've made the spring a little strong but it will do for now and the main bit is that it works rather well and I'm not scared of hitting the work with it ;-)

- Nick
Sorry for being dumb...but what's the benefits of having the ball on the end?

.Me

[magicniner]

The cheap ones are solid and don't have much flexibility at the tip so for me the advantage is that when I've snuck it up on the work edge until the light just comes on and then set the DRO appropriately in Mach3 the ball just moves over on it's spring when some klutz hits the wrong button and tries to plough it through the work, then the ball simply pops back when I correct my error.
Don't put your tongue on the end BTW, there's 2 12v batteries in series inside mine! ;-)

- Nick