Repairing Atlas 10" lathe
This is a discussion on Repairing Atlas 10" lathe within the Lathe Rebuilding & Conversions forums.
- 26-03-2010 #1
(sorry to hijack your thead Irving)
you mentioned the atlas 10, do you know of a fix to repair the bed? I was given one because the previous owner cut two slots in the bed to machine a disc brake..........Unfortunatly I was mis-informed by a local welding shop who said they could fix it no probs........ and you guessed it I now have a bananna shaped bed. I know its probably a lost cause but its a shame because the rest of the machine is in perfect condition.
Last edited by irving2008; 28-03-2010 at 10:38 PM. Reason: copied over from Minilathe thread
- 26-03-2010 #2
As you know, the Atlas system is based on a single heavily webbed and rigid girder that everything is bolted on to. I would think anything which compromised that would render it useless, and personally I wouldn't even try a repair, unless you have the 48" bed, then you might be able to cut it down to a much shorter length and get rid of the bad bit. You would only need to shorten the leadscrew and drill a few holes and you would be back in business.
But all is not lost, because of the way it is made, just replacing the girder would bring everything back to spot on, especially if you could get the top face of the second hand part ground up.
Over the last year or so, I have noticed that some 10F's can be picked up for well below £100, and that would make a very good donor for the girder, plus a spares bank as well. The 10F was made in three different lengths, 36", 42" & 48", mine was 42". If you do manage to find one to replace yours, you would need to make sure the leadscrew matched for length, as mentioned above. I managed to buy a brand new 48" screw for mine, and cut it down to length.
As a starting point, I would put an ad on here to see if anyone has one in the back of their shed. Don't forget to say please and thankyou.
Sorry I can't be of any more help. When I sold my machine, all my contact addresses for spares went with it.
Last edited by irving2008; 28-03-2010 at 09:38 PM. Reason: copied over from Minilathe thread
- 26-03-2010 #3
Much as i suspected, shorting the bed might be an option tho so thanks for the idea, mines a 42" as well with the taper bearings. Thanks for the link I will have a look.
I was tempted to replace the girder with and RSJ ( with the webs stiffened) and fit linear rails for the bed ways......any good?
Last edited by irving2008; 28-03-2010 at 09:40 PM. Reason: copied over from Minilathe thread
- 27-03-2010 #4
Even if you had to cut 12" off the length, you would still end up with a very desireable and useable, plus more rigid compact lathe.
I never really used the full distance between centres, so anything over 15" would be perfect.
Last edited by irving2008; 28-03-2010 at 09:41 PM. Reason: copied over from Minilathe thread
- 28-03-2010 #5
This was a "one day I'll fix er up" but since a 16mm dia, ball screw wont fit through the chuck on my working Granville lathe (Myford7 Copy) then its just come to the top of the list. Its not as simple as cutting the bed is it? the motor mount and the screw cutting gears will be lost no?
Maybe Id better start my own thread if this has options...........( sorry Irving)
Last edited by irving2008; 28-03-2010 at 09:48 PM.
- 28-03-2010 #6
If you look at how the lathe is built up, you should find that most of what you are worried about is mounted onto the detachable head not the main bed girder.
The girder will have to have a few holes recut in the correct places, namely the head hold down bolt holes, the reverse mechanism holding screws and one end for mounting the foot. There might be a couple of others to drill and tap, but nothing of any consequence.
The leadscrew would need shortening at the tailstock end, but that can be left until the very end, but that would need a lathe to recut the threads on the end, as your lathe won't be able to do it because you are working on the required threading leadscrew. Catch 22. I was lucky in that my old leadscrew was in position while I cut the new one down to size, so I used the Atlas to do the job.
For someone who knows what he is doing, maybe 3 to 4 hours taking it steady, and that is for the whole job.
Yet again, you are a little far away for me to assist with my machinery.
If you do raise a new post, I can show you a couple of easy mods to do that make the lathe even more accurate and easier to use, as I still have a few pics of some of the mods I did.
You must also realise that I am quoting from memory here, so I just might have forgotten a few things.
Last edited by irving2008; 28-03-2010 at 09:48 PM.
- 28-03-2010 #7
Here is my rather poorly Atlas 10" thats needs some work.
I was given it because the previous owner needed to do an emergency repair to some bike brake parts and cut two grooves in the bed to get them in.
I have also added to the problem (bad advice from welder) and had the bits welded back in, which as you would expect its now a bannana :sad:
So I believe my options are;
1 - replace bed
2 - shorten the bed
3 - make new bed with linear rails and cnc it
Open to other ideas...........................
- 28-03-2010 #8
Seems to me you have the opportunity here to have a proper gap bed lathe? cut it out and allow for a drop in piece when you need that close in work. It would be easier to beef up the side with nuts and bolts rather than trying to weld a bits in. At least you would have a first? maybeIf the nagging gets really bad......Get a bigger shed:naughty:
- 28-03-2010 #9
You make it sound so easy. New post started in the lathe section.
Is it posible for you to copy your previous posts across?
Moderater: Copied older posts across, they appear above due to timestamps
Last edited by irving2008; 28-03-2010 at 09:47 PM. Reason: copied posts over from Minilathe thread
- 28-03-2010 #10Seems to me you have the opportunity here to have a proper gap bed lathe?
The other problem is the apron is large and actually goes past the front edge of the headstock for normal turning. so the dropin piece would be permenatly in.
If i remake the bed then I will definetly make it a gap bed as i can design in the additional strength.
In hind sight I should have just bolted strengthing plates to the side as you suggested and filled the holes with chemical metal.
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