just purchased one 240v pnc2 would like to upgrade to mach has anyone
done one before /what will I need to buy to do this.
thanks scotty
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just purchased one 240v pnc2 would like to upgrade to mach has anyone
done one before /what will I need to buy to do this.
thanks scotty
I have one and have it running under Mach. Very nice machine.Quote:
Originally Posted by scotty
First, it is very difficult to do it justice with a single parallel port - there simply aren't enough pins. Hence, the first thing to do is find a PC with an on-board port and buy a second PCI add-in port.
If you can't or won't do this, there are other avenues - POKEYS and MODIO being the most well-supported.
I use Roy's (DIYCNC) breakout boards - if you go the two-port route, one of them needs to be the basic model PCPPS as the better models don't seem to support using what are traditionally output pins as inputs.
Download the manual and wiring diagram from the Denford forum. The wiring diagram is essential. Search the Denford forum for Easiturn as there's useful information there.
You should budget to change the steppers. I'm using ArcEuro's 4.2A driver and the original motors aren't great (old technology). NEMA 34 motors are probably overkill but they bolt straight on (Arc or Rhonmac); you would need an adaptor plate if you go with 23's.
You will need a little conversion board for the home switches as they are proximity sensors - look on the Denford forum, or I can send you a copy. You will need to change the perforated wheel on the back of the spindle for one with a single slit. I have a drawing for this which I can also send you.
You will need an inverter for the spindle (the motor is a good one - runs on 240v three phase). You will also need a speed control card. Again, Roy's one will do, though I prefer Peter Homan's digispeed purely as it has two relays on board.
If you pull the machine to bits, thread some spare wires up the umbilical cord as you reassemble, because one day you will want to put an auto-changer on it.
The electrical connectors used to be available from RS (eg 466-797, 466-826, 466-781, 466-775, 466-747. Extraction tool 466-876), but I think they are now discontinued. I have some spares that we could negotiate over, or if you decide to replace yours, I would be interested in the old ones.
Make sure the limit switches in the topslide work - RS part 317-998 is the replacement.
Make sure the lube system works properly. Mine lubes the bed but not the cross slide as I think the metering points are gunked up. The people who made the original are still around, and Arc sell similar (but metric threads).
Many bolts on mine are BA thread. Try Emkay supplies for replacements.
You can defeat the door interlock by sticking a magnet over it as it's a reed switch. You can wire this into Mach as a cycle-inhibit if the doors are open.
Mine had no E-stop on it (I think it was on the PNC control). I have added a switch for the light (standard bulb is $$. A cheap 12v LED array works just as well and draws a lot less current) and alimit override button. The low lube warning can be wired into Mach, but you have to dismantle the pump and turn the polystyrene float over for active low working.
Best thing I did with mine was to move the power box from the back to the side.
[QUOTE=djc;20866]I have one and have it running under Mach. Very nice machine.
First, it is very difficult to do it justice with a single parallel port - there simply aren't enough pins. Hence, the first thing to do is find a PC with an on-board port and buy a second PCI add-in port.
If you can't or won't do this, there are other avenues - POKEYS and MODIO being the most well-supported.
I use Roy's (DIYCNC) breakout boards - if you go the two-port route, one of them needs to be the basic model PCPPS as the better models don't seem to support using what are traditionally output pins as inputs.
Download the manual and wiring diagram from the Denford forum. The wiring diagram is essential. Search the Denford forum for Easiturn as there's useful information there.
You should budget to change the steppers. I'm using ArcEuro's 4.2A driver and the original motors aren't great (old technology). NEMA 34 motors are probably overkill but they bolt straight on (Arc or Rhonmac); you would need an adaptor plate if you go with 23's.
You will need a little conversion board for the home switches as they are proximity sensors - look on the Denford forum, or I can send you a copy. You will need to change the perforated wheel on the back of the spindle for one with a single slit. I have a drawing for this which I can also send you.
You will need an inverter for the spindle (the motor is a good one - runs on 240v three phase). You will also need a speed control card. Again, Roy's one will do, though I prefer Peter Homan's digispeed purely as it has two relays on board.
If you pull the machine to bits, thread some spare wires up the umbilical cord as you reassemble, because one day you will want to put an auto-changer on it.
The electrical connectors used to be available from RS (eg 466-797, 466-826, 466-781, 466-775, 466-747. Extraction tool 466-876), but I think they are now discontinued. I have some spares that we could negotiate over, or if you decide to replace yours, I would be interested in the old ones.
Make sure the limit switches in the topslide work - RS part 317-998 is the replacement.
Make sure the lube system works properly. Mine lubes the bed but not the cross slide as I think the metering points are gunked up. The people who made the original are still around, and Arc sell similar (but metric threads).
Many bolts on mine are BA thread. Try Emkay supplies for replacements.
You can defeat the door interlock by sticking a magnet over it as it's a reed switch. You can wire this into Mach as a cycle-inhibit if the doors are open.
Mine had no E-stop on it (I think it was on the PNC control). I have added a switch for the light (standard bulb is $$. A cheap 12v LED array works just as well and draws a lot less current) and alimit override button. The low lube warning can be wired into Mach, but you have to dismantle the pump and turn the polystyrene float over for active low working.
Best thing I did with mine was to move the power box from the back to the side.
Ok good news and bad, got the lathe into the shed yesterday
And had a wee fiddle with it problem's with the spindle won't
Run and airchuck openend once then stuck it's now half
In bits lol, the two green buttons light up for the spindle
And there is power going to the motor but only momentarily
There are 6 boards that light up when I push the button but
Sort of buzz out when I adjust the spindle speed setting knob.
So I think if I can't trace and fix the fault I may have to go
For a new control card aswell as bob and driver cards.
If you are intending to use Nema 34 motors then I would strongly advise that you get higher voltage drivers than the 50v 4.2A ones at arc euro. Most Nema 34 motors won't go very fast on only 50v.Quote:
Originally Posted by djc
Your best bet is to download the manual from the Denford forum, and join the forum and ask there. There are people on there from Denford itself who are very helpful as well as others who are using Easiturns with the original controls.Quote:
Originally Posted by scotty
They are far better placed to help you.
If you do decide to remove the control, do so nicely and not with a hammer as you will be able to sell all the parts over there.
I have just purchased a Denford Easiturn, would it be possible to retain the old stepper motors and drives and convert this to mach. What is the benefit of new drives and new stepper motors?
Thanks
Colin
I have a Novamill to which I have fitted new drivers but retained the original steppers and it's just fine. The machine was parted from its electronics so I had to do this. Worth trying just using modern drivers and Mach, you can always replace the motors later and use the drivers if it doesn't work out.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Changing motors won't make much difference but the drives could make big difference to how smooth it runs and also less important the speed you'll get. Esp if you use digital drives which I fully recommend you do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin Barron
Hi
I have an eazi turn and have converted it to Mach3 used the original drivers and steppers works just fine, all I used was and interface board to take the printer port to the interface (can be found on E Bay) and connected the outputs to the original stepper drives, the spindle I did replace the spindle drive controller for a Sprint 180v unit and this is now controlled by another Interface completely isolated from the drive and the PC ... not to let out the magic smoke that all electronic components are made with!!
I will post some pics of the guts of my machine if that will help
Best regards
Paul h