Re: My steel framed router
Next step involved spending some more money. So I spoke to Gary at Zapp and ordered 3 nema 23, 3nm steppers and drivers plus power supplies and breakout board. An old pc case was scrounged and I put it together like this.
http://www.homdens.co.uk/router/PICT1381.jpg
Looking at the price of motor mounts scared me so I got some more scrap and made these.
http://www.homdens.co.uk/router/DSCF1674.jpg
Which, when painted looked quite good.
I needed a mount for the Kress spindle I bought so I got my £20 B+Q router out and set to work on more scrap. When it was all put together it looked like this.
http://www.homdens.co.uk/router/PICT1390.jpg
A gift of a decent spec pc with a parallel port meant that I could start to get it working. I installed mach3, plugged it all in and told the program it was 400 steps per mm on all axis. I expected to be doing a log of tinkering and tuning to get it to run well so I was very pleased when it all ran flawlessly. All axis jogged at full speed without any problems at all and the acceleration I could get amazed me, I ended up turning it down a bit because the kitchen table it was set up on for testing was shaking too much (yes my wife is a saint).
I have still got to connect limit switches and and e stop button but I thought I would give it a go.
YouTube"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhKl0S1JVds
YouTube"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7uFgeNTnZE
So thats it. It took about 4 months of grabbing the odd hour here or there to get it done but now I have a good, strong working router for about £1000.
Now all I need to do is find something to do with it.
Re: My steel framed router
wow! looks like a real good machine in only 4 months:clap:could you tell me how easy it was getting slides etc from china, how long did it take?how much did it cost plus delivery?what company did you use?
sorry for all the questions but i am just snooping around internet for best ideas and prices to build my own router.
hope my build goes as smoothly as yours
:beer:Tom...
Re: My steel framed router
Hi Tom.
Getting the bits from China was easy. The price was £412.08 including shipping. I expected to get charged VAT and import duty but I got away with it. I'm sure the quality of the ballscrews is not as good as you would get from some of the sponsors of this site but for my first machine, it made sense to me. The drive couplings didn't last long but to be fair, they were rated for 2Nm and I was working them hard on 3Nm motors. I have replaced them for now with reinforced hose and jubilee clips.
The bits from China took about 3 weeks to arrive but when they were delivered, the small pair of linear rails were missing. I emailed the guy and he sent them out straight away without any argument.
I dont know the policy for posting the details of non-sponsors so I will PM you the guys details.
My build costs were
Rails etc £412.08
Motors and drivers £400.51
Spindle £152.50
4 core screened cable for motors £15.00
and about £50 for machine screws and electrical bits and bobs.
Everything else was given freely or was scrap.
I hope your build goes well
Paul
Re: My steel framed router
Looking good pavlo!
I'm using the TBR type supported rail for the new machine i'm currently working on as well, i'm hoping to start my build log VERY soon.
How much did the lovely anodised black cost to have done, somthing i picked up on from your build was aluminium and corrosion, this is somthing i didnt really think about.
Thanks,
Lee
Re: My steel framed router
Hi Lee
I was fortunate enough the get the black anodised bits made for free.
I dont know much about aluminium but I do know that some grades will corrode very easily, especialy if steel screws are used.
Re: My steel framed router
Hi Pavlo,
Ok no problem mate, i hope i wont have any problems but i guess i could look into this and let you know. Maybe some undercoat and a top coat maybe in order!
Great !
Re: My steel framed router
Indoors in the dry aluminium needs no protection as the film of aluminium oxide that forms with oxygen is sefl-protecting. However this does give a dull finish. Anodising provides a nice surface finish and looks better but isnt necessary.
See http://www.keytometals.com/Article14.htm for more info.
Re: My steel framed router
Pav your images have stoped working mate?
Re: My steel framed router
Thanks Lee
sorted now I hope.
Re: My steel framed router
Yep sorted. Looks like a beefy machine that one :)
Re: My steel framed router
hey pavlo,
amazing work !!
I think I just found the design of my router (well,,,almost!)
I wish if you could send me your design ,I'll start a new thread soon after finishing the initial design of mine.
I'm thinking of ACME (multi-start) instead of ball screw and aluminium (tube) for frame
3-axis upgradeable to removable 4th-axis (rotary)
with a working area of 400mm x 300mm and 2 N.m steppers
I'll order the steppers kit soon
this is the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Axis-Nema-23-S...item4155c86bd7
chinese , can't imagine the life without them
hope to hear from you soon
excuse my bad english ,it's not my native :)
Re: My steel framed router
Quote:
Originally Posted by
F.O.X
I'm thinking of ACME (multi-start) instead of ball screw and aluminium (tube) for frame
Why aluminium tube? Surely steel is easier to join (by welding) and stronger for the money...
Quote:
Originally Posted by
F.O.X
I think you'll find that kit to be of limited value. The stepper motors have an extremely high inductance (18mH), which combined with the low voltage that driver runs on will really limit your motor speed.
Re: My steel framed router
Thanx for your replay Jonathan,,
The fixed work table from steel but the gantry is movable and steel's density is 7850 Kg/cu.m compared to AL 2650 Kg/cu.m .
it's easier for me to use steel for all the body but I'm not sure if the 2N.m motors can handle it ,I didn't finish my calculations
about the kit,, I'll consult my friend ,an elec.eng. , I hope it can be tuned.
I'm short of time and money and the drivers are more expensive than the board , I can switch later to better drivers
Right now I'm in big trouble , I can't find screw lead (ACME) and slid rails in the market , that's why I didn't finish calculations , my last hope is printers' scrap .
Does anybody knows website? with international shipping? or another way? :S
Re: My steel framed router
Hi FOX
Glad you like the router, I will PM you with as much information as I have regarding plans and suppliers.
One thing to bear in mind is that although aluminium is about a third of the density of steel, it's Young's modulus is also a third of steel's. This means that for the same geometry, you need to use three times as much aluminium to get the rigidity of steel. The benefit of aluminium is that the geometry of extuded sections have a high second moment of area (I) which gives good flexural rigidity.
Re: My steel framed router
Quote:
Originally Posted by
pavlo
One thing to bear in mind is that although aluminium is about a third of the density of steel, it's Young's modulus is also a third of steel's. This means that for the same geometry, you need to use three times as much aluminium to get the rigidity of steel. The benefit of aluminium is that the geometry of extuded sections have a high second moment of area (I) which gives good flexural rigidity.
That's what I was referring to, but you put it better.
Also steel is 1.7x more dense than aluminum, which is something to consider with regards to resonance.
Re: My steel framed router
Hi Pavlo
Great job with your router. Looks like we have similiar ideas about building CNC's. I built mine from 50x100 and 50x50 steel profiles like you did. Frame of mines is 120x150cm. Steel construction is rigid enough to mill steel, so I think steel construction is right way to go
Regards
Mariusz
Re: My steel framed router
I see
So steel it'll be
thank you all for your replays