Stell frame cnc 1500X1000. Adjustable table your opinion please

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Nah good engineering practice is to do it right first time and use a proper spot drill not some poxy pin prick mark.!!

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That is correct but it's not what I said.

I said, ". . . the holes have been marked with both a centre and an outline of the hole. This is good engineering practice . . ."

I know this because I have served a proper engineering apprenticeship when things were done right.

One small problem
I phone the supplyer of west system resigns here in Greece and he told me that for 105 resign he only has the 206 hardener and not the 209 ( that is recomended by the members here in my cncuk). Do you think that i can do my Job with the 206 hardener and not the 209. The temperature here in Greece is 32-35 and nearly 25-30 at my worklace.

Thanks

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Originally Posted by ba99297

One small problem
I phone the supplyer of west system resigns here in Greece and he told me that for 105 resign he only has the 206 hardener and not the 209 ( that is recomended by the members here in my cncuk). Do you think that i can do my Job with the 206 hardener and not the 209. The temperature here in Greece is 32-35 and nearly 25-30 at my worklace.
Thanks

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I have used the Wests System and spoken to them a couple of times. I think you really need the 209 as it has a very slow cure and that is what you need for the resin to level out. I purchased mine here : http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/ not many suppliers appear to stock it but can order it for you. ..Clive

I agree, i don't see how it would be done without the proper hardener.
I purchased mine from http://www.dansonmarine.co.uk/ and he shipped 2 packs to Spain for 17GBP for 3-4 days.

Maybe buy locally the epoxy and purchase only the hardener, have to check with them though.

For the Hiwin 20 rails the minimum width of the epoxy should be 40mm, that leaves 10mm each side of the rails, cause epoxy rises like 5mm near the edge. I made mine something like 5mm high. Used magnets 4.5mm thick at both corners both sides, to check visually whats going on and make perfect 5mm height


About the laser cut pieces, i dont see why they would charge more for the holes. I ordered mine with holes, that's was the whole point, to save time drilling precisely. Even the 4mm holes were perfect.

Clive_S and Syliavski thanks both for your answers
As for the holes Syliavski there is a limit about the holes that laser can cut in relation to the material thickness.
So at 10mm plate isnt easy to cut 4mm holes. Also the charge at laser cutting is according the time the machine cuts ( this of course is influenced by the length of cut, material thickness and material )

Vagelis

Hi everybody
Today i go on with the gantry
I start by drilling the holes for the bf/bk on y axis. to do this i remove the 120X60X3mm middle tube of the gantry. I put the ballscrew on place and point the holes
Attachment 13094Attachment 13097

Then i put the tube back to the gantry and start aligning the tubes with the steel plates. After that i start spot welding the pieces. With small weld in order not to produce muh heat


Attachment 13096Attachment 13095Attachment 13099
At this photo you can see the 1120mm long m8 bolts that i use to keep in place the side 10mm steel plates
Attachment 13098Attachment 13100

After the side spot welding i had to weld the tubes at their side that atteced each other
First pass i start with spot welding every 10-12 cm. Second pass i weld between the old spot welds ( every 6cm) and so on.... In order to have better result i turn the gantry a bit

Attachment 13102Attachment 13101
Finally i end with this result
Attachment 13103

Attachment 13104Attachment 13105
Then i put the front steel plate on the tubes construction and temporarily i put the rails on, in oredr to see where to drill the holes in order to bolt the plate to the tubes

Attachment 13106Attachment 13107Attachment 13108

The only question i have is about the way i weld the tubes. Are these spot welds ( every 3-4 cm) enough or i should make a full weld

Thanks for your time
Any suggestion will be glad to hear

Vagelis

That with the long screws holding the plate is great idea, thanks for sharing the photos. I will do the same, as i don't have long clamps.

All looks very good!

I fully welded the gantry on the machine i finished and spot welded the Z. Now that you have all in place why don't you repeat the spot welding until all spot welds are very close?
If it was me, i will fully weld it, though it seems that will work both ways. Welding precisely takes a lot of time , i know. I made 5cm stitches, and took care that the temperature of the gantry not to rise above 60 degrees. Used an infrared thermometer. And had to wait a lot for the metal to cool.

You were lucky if your long plate was straight. I had to hammer down to rectify some of the laser cut stuff. Good that i have very big plastic head hammers.

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Originally Posted by silyavski

That with the long screws holding the plate is great idea, thanks for sharing the photos. I will do the same, as i don't have long clamps.

Now that you have all in place why don't you repeat the spot welding until all spot welds are very close?
If it was me, i will fully weld it, though it seems that will work both ways. Welding precisely takes a lot of time , i know. I made 5cm stitches, and took care that the temperature of the gantry not to rise above 60 degrees. Used an infrared thermometer.

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Syliavski i think ( not sure, that is why i ask ) that i have nothing to add to the stiffness of the machine. One small spot weld is too strong . On the other hand too much heat may cause deflection and twist . Dont forget that my machine is bigger than yours ( y axis is 1160mm long) so it is more possible to have twist issues.

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Originally Posted by silyavski

You were lucky if your long plate was straight. I had to hammer down to rectify some of the laser cut stuff. Good that i have very big plastic head hammers.

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I think it is not but when i bolt it on the tube construction it will be as straight as the tubes. Even then i am not sure everything will be straight. May be machining or epoxy method will be applyied.
I have a small problem with the resign. The Greek supplyer of West system epoxy doesn have the 209 hardener. On the other hand the 209 hardener is not easy to be shipped as it is described as dangerous to travel . I have to look for another resign

Vagelis

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I have a small problem with the resign. The Greek supplyer of West system epoxy doesn have the 209 hardener. On the other hand the 209 hardener is not easy to be shipped as it is described as dangerous to travel . I have to look for another resign
Vagelis

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Well check here:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/West-Syste...item1e8ff2bb79 I know this is not a good place to buy it but they do ship to your country . Have you tried to buy it from the UK or perhaps tried a boat yard, also ask them why they can ship the 205 but not the 209. Wests is the best product and it gives you about a 10 hour cure. ..Clive

Apart from stiffness there is dampening of vibrations to consider. Not fully welding may worsen things there. I have never seen commercial mill or cnc spot welded, that should be enough answer for you.

Not every one uses epoxy. I believe it helps dampening. There is German company selling something similar, it was called Moglis, I am not sure. Will search, I had the link somewhere. It's meant to be used for shimming the rails. You can do that with normal epoxy, though the proper one has high compression rating without deformation.
Shimming definitely will be cheaper. But then you will need long straight edge.