Coolant, I am not sure which one to go with.

Dear all,

I am after a coolant to for my mill to cut metals a range ofgeneral metals. I am a novice but I like the look of the last one, there aredata sheets for it. If anyone can adviseon this it would be of help.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G-P-Soluble-Cutting-Oil-Coolant-White-Water-1-x-1-ltr-/250443189387?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Weldin g_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item3a4f93cc8b

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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FR9-WATER-SOLUBLE-CUTTING-FLUID-WHITE-SUDS-GENERAL-PROPOSE-COOLANT-FREE-POST-/171254151278?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item2 7df8af86e


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http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Protection-Grease-Adhesives/Rock-Oil-Lubricants


I want one that works well, is good in health terms and good value
Just a quick thank you to you guys that helped with my lastpost.
Many thanks
Suesi

The first two are pretty much the same, and are your usual conventional soluble oils.
The Arc one is a more modern synthetic oil (it shouldn't go mouldy or smell as quick, but I've personally never had any issues with conventional oils!)

I've used the conventional white soluble oils for years, however I'm currently searching for slideway oil so will probably buy whatever soluble cutting fluid that supplier has for a reasonable price. Unless you really need an oil to cover some specific machining need, then it won't make that much difference.

It is a bit confusing that you have to ask. To use suds you usually have a tank, pump, flow control, pointable nozzle, splash guards, return hoses and filter. If you have all that then you might be expected to know what to do with it. If you don't have all that, suds may not be your best choice unless you plan to get all that :beer:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt

It is a bit confusing that you have to ask. To use suds you usually have a tank, pump, flow control, pointable nozzle, splash guards, return hoses and filter. If you have all that then you might be expected to know what to do with it.

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Robin Can't say that because althought the Lady may have all the gear and know how it works or been shown it doesn't follow she knows what to put into it.? To me that's exactly what she's asking WHAT COOLANT DO I USE.!!. . . Not How do I use it.!

Suesi Like M_C says any of those will work for general cutting but the synthetic may be best in your case to avoid Mould, smell etc.

Jazz, Calm down dear it is only an advert.

Suesi, you have asked for coolant advice which probably means your tooling is burning out? If your tooling is burning out flood coolant may help but it is not the first thing you look to change. Give us a clue.

I use this stuff,it works for me.Exol Cutting oil, soluble cutting fluid white Milky emulsion SUDS Cutting fluid | eBay

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt

Jazz, Calm down dear it is only an advert.

Suesi, you have asked for coolant advice which probably means your tooling is burning out? If your tooling is burning out flood coolant may help but it is not the first thing you look to change. Give us a clue.

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Robin I'm calm as still water Buddy but don't you think your being a Tad negative and Assuming too much here.?? . . . . The Lady(Erm I may be assuming too much here she's a Lady with the name Suesi.?) could just be curious to which coolant is best and have no problem what so ever.! . . .Sure if she had a problem the post would say " I Have a Problem, Please Help!!"

I can't think of ever meeting any woman called Steve...;)
.
Don't Triacs come with flood coolant?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by m_c

I can't think of ever meeting any woman called Steve...;)
.
Don't Triacs come with flood coolant?

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Why not, most of us have heard of a" boy called Sue", but I do agree an earlier post signed off Steve. G.

Robin is a girls name, just because you can't see the pony tail in my avatar doesn't mean it isn't there.

lol, anyway...

Suesi/Steve, have a watch of this video by a friend called Tom, he covers what he use's and why and gives a little test at the end.

http://youtu.be/-GI9b3OcgTQ

It should give you a good idea on what to use and try, the fact is everyone use's their own choice and you will need to try a few different options to find what works best for you.

.Me

Quote:

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Originally Posted by m_c

I can't think of ever meeting any woman called Steve...;)

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All I'll say is Fleetwood Mac.!!. . . . . But ye I didn't see the Steve before, don't change what I said thou. .:hysterical:

Hi Guys,

Thank you to you all. Your help sure has been valuable. I think I should set afew things straight. I have the username suesi34e long story! but my name isSteve yes I am a regular guy, secondly and more importantly I have to say all Iknow about CNC or mills come to that I could write on the bag of a postagestamp. JAZZCNC was spot on that I could have a machine and not know how to useit he hit the nail on the head in being just right! I have not yet managed toget it going.

Back to the coolant I may go with the one diesel said about on ebay 5 litersfor about £25 that sounds great value compared to some of the others based onjust a litre.

I find the CNC matter and a lot of the knowledge needed a bit tricky.

Thanks again, you guys make finding out new bits fun, I am often reading poststhough that are straight over my head!

Suesi

Quote:

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Originally Posted by suesi34e

... I think I should set afew things straight. I have the username suesi34e long story! but my name is Steve ...

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I Think we should be told...

Settles Down for long story...

Hi m_c

My one has a reservoir and pump and I think just need the coolant, and a bit ofluck in getting the machine going I hope the pump works!

All the best

Suesi

I have never noticed one soluble oil was better than another, I usually tack it on the end of an order for something else to avoid carriage. Currently using Multi-Cut G which does seem disinclined to rot.
Modern suds pipework usually ends with one of those bendy hose things that stays where you put it and a nozzle.
You will need splash guards to catch suds. As soon as suds hits a spinning chuck it goes everywhere.
Two nozzles are better than one, coming at the tool from opposite directions.
The cheap Chinese bendy hose leaks if you stray not very far from straight.
If you use a nozzle you need to filter out everything that will not fit through that nozzle, I use Koi carp water filter bags..
You will need a Wet'n'Dry vacuum cleaner with a crevice tool to empty out your T slots between jobs.
Your suds return hose will block, put a brush over the entrance before you hit it with a blowgun or get a face full.
As the level in your suds tank goes down you will top it up with water, try to remember that eventually you will need to add more oil.

Hi Lee,
Many thanks for the video. I should be able to learn loads from Tom I see he has over 170 videos with followers all over the world. I see what you meant by the test
Thanks again!
Suesi

Np, indeed allot of the time when watching people like Tom, you notice them do other tricks and things they are not covering in the said video but are handy extra knowledge you pick up.

Another two contacts to follow are Keith Fenner and Adam (abom79) you can find them in my circles on google plus ( https://plus.google.com/108050285232390149561 )and via each other on youtube.

.Me

the simplest solution blasocut 2000 if you cant stretch to hangsterfers 787 in many many years of machining stuff you will find there are toytown coolants and two that aren't

I'm always happy with Hysol excel although I'm not sure if you can get it in hobbiest size. I have a 20kg drum that's lasted me for a couple of years but I use mist on Alu as it's just neater for my set up. If I'm on stainless I put the enclosure around the machine and go with the flood. A buddy of mine uses it in full flood all the time in his full enclosed machine and is happy with it. Doesn't stink too much and when you use it at about 5% in the emusion once the water evaporates off it leaves a nice protective coating of oil on the table and slideways. Handy if you are only using the machine a couple of times a week.
Just my two cents.
Noel.

Hi compositepro,

I still have not got around to getting coolant as I am still trying to learn how to use my CNC! I will look into the coolant you suggest.

Many thanks

Suesi

Hi corkcnc

Thank you for the info and your thoughts. I will have a look at what coolant I can get. It is good to know what your using and how your using it.

Many thanks for your time.

Suesi

Hi all

For anything Model Engineering..go for a semi synthetic

Assuming Suesi has a sump and equipment to handle a soluble....go semi , I would suggest that normally, Model Engineers use their equipment in more of a hobby time rather than a business time. I raise this point, for coolants do not "stand" very well..I'll come to that in a mo..
The disadvantages of milky "suds" or coolants are that they are predominantly oil based 80%. When mixed, they turn milky in the same way that Cows milk does and it is the refraction of light that gives this "colour". It has now become and emulsion but an Oil in Water emulsion.
At this stage I will mention that WHEN you mix these products ALWAYS add the oil to the water. This allows the oil molecule to "coat" the water molecule...do it vice versa and instead of the coolant protecting the machine and workpiece the coolant is now an invert emulsion and will likely rust the machine and anything near it! Water coats the Oil. I should say..that I have never observed this but was advised by the boffins :-)

Now when the coolant is "standing"...like any water that stands it becomes a breeding ground for bacteria ....the rest you will know.
There was a mention of slideway oil. Anyone using either a slideway oil or other and is using coolant...the oil will find it's way into the coolant and in use the coolant emulsifier will emulsify a percentage of the oil. There will come a point, if not changed, the oil will float and the bugs will have a field day...then it will stink. I use that word because it's orrible. IF it ever goes this far...you really must sterilise the whole system but use a proprietary system cleaner...not bleach!! Water, bleach and metal just do not mix!!

Therefore...a semi synthetic, having a LOW oil (20%) makes life very difficult for bacteria to get a foothold whilst giving enough oil for machine protection. Other "additives" within give better machineability. It will stand for much longer periods.

When you have coolant in the sump...any coolant.. just circulate in the machine every now and again...say every few days or so...this will enhance the life of the coolant.

It is very unlikely, unless anyone is doing copious amounts of grinding (again use the semi) to use a fully synthetic.

There is nothing wrong with milky coolants as long as you know their limitations AND there is no reason why any of these products can be applied either by the proverbial washing up liquid bottle or the nippers water pistol!

Always ensure that the workpiece material has compatability with the lubricant/coolant

Always observe health and safety with any of these products, use a "water" barrier cream...don't be bashful and keep you hands out of washing up liquid..Use rubber gloves for the latter...that's NOT an excuse for NOT washing up!

I hope that this little guide will be of some use

Richard

Hello Richard,
Many thanks for the help and info here. My machine is down at the minute as the power to my workshop kept on tripping with just the angle grinder or the normal power tools, waiting for the sparke! One I have the mill back in the land of the living and some time to use it I will place an order for coolant. I will be sure to read what you have mentioned several times over as I learnt a lot.
Many thanks
Suesi