1st Build, Steel, Epoxy 24"x24" for Wood

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AndyGuid

Being a skin-flint I'm very curious how successful different cheaper epoxies are at self-levelling, so please report back when done.

Had a look on the web and wonder whether you've gone for just the Slow-Hardener or the Extra-Slow-Epoxy-Hardener which seems to me to be closer to the West system that the successful pours on this forum have used?

5:1 Slow Hardener ~ http://www.totalboat.com/product/51-slow-hardener/
• Excellent thin-film characteristics provide smooth flow-out and self-levelling ideal for coating and laminating
• Pot life @ 75°F: 20 minutes
• Set time @ 75°F (thin film): 10 hours
• Cure time @ 75°F (thin film): 1-4 days

Tropical Extra Slow Epoxy Hardener ~ http://www.totalboat.com/product/tropical-hardener/
• Excellent thin-film characteristics provide smooth flow-out and self-levelling ideal for coating and laminating
• Pot life @75°F: 46 minutes
• Set time at @75°F: 20-24 hours
• Cure time at @75°F: 4-7 days

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I went with just the slow - not extra-slow. It will likely be in the 65F temp range here when I pour...

Well, I have it about ready to pour epoxy:

Attachment 23021Attachment 23022

Can't figure out why my pics are upside down now...

Brushed a thin coat on to seal joints, seams, etc:

Attachment 23029
Attachment 23030

Still trying to get pics right-side-up. I think it has something to do with iOS 11

Read over more epoxy-related posts before pouring and came across the one by Boyan Sylvaski discussing shrinkage of centered bridge causing distortion in the middles of the rails! Well, I wasn't tearing it down and starting over. So, I did the pour, gave it time to flow out, and then blocked the bridge entrances with razor blades:

Attachment 23037 Attachment 23038

Used a heat gun multiple times to get rid of bubbles. I was surprised at how well that worked. You could see the bubbles pop and disappear as you waved the heat gun over. Top looks like glass at this point.

Wallace

Pulled forms off today. Not sure if this was because I used the Totalboat epoxy, but I was surprised at the size of the meniscus. I have one side pretty much cleaned up, but I'm guessing I had to file in maybe 5mm from the edge to get rid of it. Does this sound like what most of you see? Nothing to base this on, but I expected it to be a narrow and steep meniscus. I'll try to get a pic of the other side before cleanup.

Linear rails supposed to arrive from China this Friday...

I've not done epoxy before but your query may be answered in this excellent epoxy thread :
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/8197-...-for-levelling

IIRC others have suggested pouring epoxy 40mm wide for 20mm rails to allow for a miniscus of about 5mm and then some.

Wow.. fast progress! I had my moat on for 8-10 days for guaranteed cure..
But you didn't have the super slow stuff?

I used reactive resins and had about 4-5mm meniscus.

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Or maybe I just rushed it :(

It seems super hard though. I used the slow - not extra slow. Sounds like the meniscus on mine was about right then. Still amazes me how this works. I could not get the frame level in all directions due to an apparent twist. But no matter which way I put this level, all I see is:

Attachment 23082

Granted, that is just a (high quality) carpenter's level, but still pretty cool.

Thanks,
Wally

Yeah I know :D
I was amazed with the glassmooth level surface..
Awsome stuff for DIY applications.
I was a bit stupid as I built my moat out of masonite and the epoxy merged with it. Proper hell to clean :)
Did the tape you used come of easy?

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No, it was also proper hell also! I'll use packing tape backwards next time as Clive and others suggest...