Low profile, compact work-holding solutions. Advice sought.

Hi,

No glue below. Fit it in, then glue around. Once you know the hot glue, you can stick anything with barely just enough glue to hold firmly and at the same time to remove it very easily.

In case like yours, where fine elements can be damaged by pulling by hand or lifting with screwdriver/that's what i do/, so use alcohol.

I can't imagine a life without hot glue :-)

See some example, just right now what i have on my machine. The wood is bend, that's the weights are for. See how little glue i use. you do the same, just your element will be a little inside the fixture hole :

Attachment 12803 Attachment 12804

Aha, okay.

Will give it a go sometime. Cheers!

Wal.

I start repeating my self about Chinese thing, but have to say it- don't use Chinese glue sticks. You will know them that they are softer and yellowish. You need transparent white or whitish. The Chinese ones don't harden enough and stick in an awful manner + clog the gun.

Try it, you will like it. Its the fastest way to hold something, especially various things at home .

Any manufacturer in particular..?

Any glue sticks that sell in local shops in packets of at least 1kg.

The glue gun does not need to be very expensive, not necessary but better is to have automatic-off function. Most importantly it should be slim so later can reach in difficult places without a problem. 12mm glue sticks.

A Stanley gun will work, 3m, Locktite, Dremel guns are good, these are very nice - https://www.powerbond.co.uk/categori..._glue_guns.php

As for the glue the best glue stick i used are Tecbond, a bit overkill for the purpose. You should look for rebranded general purpose sticks in some big local shop. I buy them normally for 15 eur the kg but from time to time in very big shops they sell them 7eur per kg.
http://www.gluesticks.uk.com/multi-p...-5kg-p-13.html

I have used super glue which work fine, as the glue has a low viscosity the work piece will sit flat in the pocket and can be removed with heat or and acetone.

I recently made a couple of custom logos in MoP. Based on earlier recommendations, here's how the (this time very successful) work-holding went:

1. Machined a pocket in a flooring off-cut to hold the stock (very snug press-fit). Also used a bit of double sided tape and a couple of dabs of hot glue to help prevent the work lifting. Note the access points at the corners to aid in lifting out the work.
2. Once cut, I shaved off the glue and then dabbed a few drops of meths through the shell and onto the double sided tape which let go straight away.

http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=13516&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=13515&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=13514&stc=1

I guess it's basic stuff, but if it helps someone out on a first job, then so much the better.

Wal.

Looks good Wal - well done and thanks for showing. G.

We develop a thin film for hard works may be it can do the job better then your double sided tape, by the way what king of double sided tape do you use? please take a look at the movie. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbCqkUomf5M

That is a strong piece of tape..! What's it like removing the work..?

I use a generic double-sided tape, not a bargain-bin brand but not engineering grade either. It's pretty strong but to be honest, for the smaller pearls stuff I'm mostly just using hot glue around the edges of the stock nowadays.

Less fiddly scraping off the tape..!

Attachment 17134 Attachment 17133