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1 Attachment(s)
CNC Router V1.0 (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Hi all,
I figured it was about time I started a proper build log since starting a thread in the new members section. Before I get into the details, a little background of myself. By day I am an Electronics Engineer and by night I am a keen hobbyist! I have built many projects, re-built a couple of motorbikes and fix my car on a regular basis (its french ;) ) but building a CNC router is something I've wanted to do for ages. Now I have some spare time (girlfriend depending!) and a little spare cash (girlfriend depending ;) ) I feel I can finally go ahead with one.
So here goes...I guess the first question to ask myself is what I want the machine to cut. To that I answer: Wood (MDF), Plastics (Acrylic, Delrin etc) but also Aluminium (basic plates/small parts).
I have kicked off a design in solidworks and have a VERY basic outline (not done any detail yet) of what I am looking to achieve:
Attachment 7845
Along the way I have already made some decisions on parts, as follows:
- 20mm Hiwin Rail/Carriages all round.
- RM1605 Ballscrews.
- FF/FK12 Ballscrew End Supports.
- 80x80 Profile 8 Extrusion for the Y axis supports.
- Chinese 2.2kW Spindle
- Nema 23 Motors.
- THK KR33A Z axis (Purchased this cheaply off ebay)
- Approximately an A3 build dimension.
Like everyone, I have a TON of questions to follow but will post those up separately when I get time to compile them all.
As always, I'm open to opinions/criticism! It may well be that the whole design changes before I start ordering parts.
Best Regards,
Dave
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Hi Dave,
On the basis that it is broadly similar to my machine, but with slightly better components and smaller footprint (and assuming that the sides are 15-20mm aluminium plate?), I would expect this to perform very well for MDF and plastics. Aluminium would be best cut in the middle of the bed since you only have a central ballscrew (like my machine). Even so this would not suit regular aluminium cutting.
Adding a plate across the back of the gantry, between the 2 cross members, would be a useful addition.
I know it is only A3 size, but if you ever think you would upgrade to twin ballscrew in the future then you could increase the width of the end plates and add ballscrew mounting holes so it is ready to go. You would also need more holes in the gantry sides to mount the ballscrew.
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Thanks for the feedback. Twin Y axis (I assume you mean Y?) ballscrews was on my list, I will probably add the mounting holes in so I can add them in the future. All plate will be 20mm thick I think.
Been doing some more work...
Attachment 7853
At the moment I only have 2x Hiwin carriages on the X axis. Would there be much benefit/need to double up on these? I.e. two carriages per rail? If so then I will need to increase the X axis length to get a decent travel. I am leading towards this anyway...
Dave
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
Would there be much benefit/need to double up on these? I.e. two carriages per rail?
Definately. The rigidity will be greatly reduced if you don't use two, since with only one on each rail the axis can more easily pivot (or 'rack') about the center point, i.e. the ballnut, which on the gantry will cause the cutter to deflect substantially.
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Will add some more carriages in tomorrow :) thanks!
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
I believe routercnc meant twin X-axis ball screws rather than Y (where Y is the gantry). On a small design like this you'd still be able to use a single motor to drive both X-axis screws if you go down that route.
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
As in the following?
Attachment 7859
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
No the other way round lol, from what I understand there is no standard but on this forum they refer to the X axis as the back & forward axis, (longest axis on you build) & the Y axis as the left & right movement. Z is as you have it up & down.
Reason for the twin ballscrews is to prevent the gantry from twisting as it moves backwards & forwards.
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Normally the longest and lowest down axis is called X and the gantry Y with the Z going up and down like this:
Attachment 7860
I've seen one or two designs where the gantry is wider than the bed is long and in that situation it's a little less clear which is X and Y. I believe our American cousins also refer to Y as X.
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
martin54
No the other way round lol, from what I understand there is no standard but on this forum they refer to the X axis as the back & forward axis, (longest axis on you build) & the Y axis as the left & right movement. Z is as you have it up & down.
Reason for the twin ballscrews is to prevent the gantry from twisting as it moves backwards & forwards.
Depends if you view machine from front or side. Really your just using the Cartesian coordinate system which is X Axis horizontal or left/right and Y Vertical or Forward/backwards.
If you stand in front of machine like milling machines user's do then the moving table is X axis and it goes Left/right and Y axis goes away and towards you.
Router users often load and stand at the side of machine which is often the longest Axis. So setup machine to work from the side and match the coordinate system of left/right is the X axis and again the y axis goes away and towards you along the gantry.
When I first put my machine vertical the hardest part or strangest part was getting my head around the fact it was still setup to be used and viewed from side and know I was stood in front of it. Kept thinking the code was wrong because I was expecting it to move L & R for X when it went UP/down instead.?? Very confusing.!! For it all to make sense all I had to do was tip my head to the side and things looked right.!
To match the CAD/CAM coordinate system and still look right in Mach I should set it up so that the X axis runs along the gantry left/right and the Y axis vertical Up/down.
I haven't done it yet but I should really has it's a simple has swapping the motor inputs so X axis uses the Y axis input and vise versa.
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
martin54
No the other way round lol, from what I understand there is no standard but on this forum they refer to the X axis as the back & forward axis, (longest axis on you build) & the Y axis as the left & right movement. Z is as you have it up & down.
Reason for the twin ballscrews is to prevent the gantry from twisting as it moves backwards & forwards.
There is the american standard the english standard and the european standard, I just Clasify them as they are said, X-Y-Z X is connected to Y and Y is connected to Z On gantry mills But my Boxford is a moving Bed from left to right so that is Y is connected to X and X is connected to Z.. That will throw a spanner in the works LOL
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Ok, so I think I'll add the option for twin ballscrews on the Y axis, I mean X, or Y... :playful:
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Stand to the side of your machine and make single finger gun with your left hand, Thumb pointing up = z, pointing finger straight out = Y, trigger (middle) finger pointing right = X. If you always shoot the axis's you can not get it wrong even if you can not remember which hand
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Twin Y axis (I'm sticking with calling it Y for now!) ballscrews installed. Also doubled up on the X axis Hiwin carriages and increased the X axis width, I have 343mm of travel now - pretty much what I was after. LOADS more to do!
Attachment 7889
Dave
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Question: How should I go about limit and home switches?
My current thought is to only have home switches and use software limits. Is this something that can be done in Mach 3? In fact I am considering using Inductive Proximity Sensors for good repeatability. Any opinions on this kind of setup?
Dave
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Just to re-iterate, I would use 3 (x,y,z) proximity sensors for homing and software limits for emergency stops...
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
Just to re-iterate, I would use 3 (x,y,z) proximity sensors for homing and software limits for emergency stops...
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
Question: How should I go about limit and home switches?
My current thought is to only have home switches and use software limits. Is this something that can be done in Mach 3? In fact I am considering using Inductive Proximity Sensors for good repeatability. Any opinions on this kind of setup?
Dave
On a small machine like this then I'd suggest you use Limit switches has it will be from one side to the next in blink of an eye.
Personally I use separate limits and home switch's on machines I build. Has well preferring them that way for flexibility of moving my home position around if needed, It's also due to the way I use either purpose safety relays or Standard relays to run my control box.
Having a safe control box means Limits should not be under software control and this means they can't be used for home switch's has they would trip the system every time you homed the machine. Being safe doesn't cost much money compared to surgery for replacing fingers so for £20-30 more doing it right and correct is a no brainier to me.!!
Proximity switch's are fine so long has they are accurate enough. Some require very close fitments of the pickup to achieve good accurecy and this can be a problem with damage depending on what your cutting.?
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
What configuration of switches do you use then? 6x Limit switches + 3x Home switches? How do you resolve the problem of hitting limit switches when homing?
Dave
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
OK, so I warned of a whole heap of questions when I first started this project. Here are a few of the ones at the top of my list... If anyone would be kind enough to answer just one that would be very much appreciated! I hope they make sense...
- Should I rebate/slot the aluminium plate where the aluminium extrusion butts up against it? Would there be anything to benefit alignment strength wise? I have done this with the extrusion piece connecting the gantry sides at the bottom but was thinking of the main X and Y extrusions.
- This is a general tolerance question. Should I perform a worst-case tolerance stack-up when calculating tolerances for holes etc? A particular question I have regarding this is the diameter of the bolt holes. I want a close-fit to aid with alignment. EDIT: So for example an M8 bolt, what clearance should I include and what is a realistic tolerance if I have the aluminium plate machined manually or on a CNC mill? I'm going to use the ANSI dimensions for hole clearances etc. Should I go for close or normal fit for bolt clearance?
- Following on from the above question...Another particular example of the tolerance question is where the Hiwin carriages are recessed into the gantry 'uprights'. The carriage blocks are 44mm high (I cannot see a tolerance in the datasheet...). Lets assume this tolerance is +/-0.1mm. Should I specify the slot in the upright to be 44.2mm +/-0.1mm? This would ensure the part would definitely fit, however if the carriage was only 39.9mm then this fit may not be tight?
- Would my design benefit from an Aluminium plate across the back of the two extrusions on the X axis? If so, should I mount this to the two gantry 'uprights' as well as the extrusions? Would 10mm thickness suffice?
- In my current design I have the Y axis hiwin carriages mounted to the lower portion of the 80x80 extrusion profiles. Would there be much difference/benefit in mounting these to the upper portion?
- How do you determine how heigh to have your Z axis? What I mean by this is do you design around a typical flute length and add some? Should the Z axis be able to go through the bed?
Cheers,
Dave
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4 Attachment(s)
Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
What configuration of switches do you use then? 6x Limit switches + 3x Home switches? How do you resolve the problem of hitting limit switches when homing?
Dave
Yep 6 + 3.!!
Limit switches are just that the Limit of travel, or just before it. HOME switches are usually just in front of the Limit switches, usually on left side but can be anywhere you like really.? By this I mean you could put the HOME switch in the middle of each axis then the centre of machine would be your X0,Y0 machine coordinate. Depending which side you place work material will determine if the Work coordinates are on the positive or negative side of MACHINE coordinates.
By far the most common and less confusing way is to mount the HOME switches on the extreme left. This way your WORK coordinates will always be Positive in relation to MACHINE coordinates.
If your using Micro switches and separate home switches then the switch needs to work on a ramp trigger.! By this I mean the HOME switch gets triggered by riding up a ramp or bump which it can ride over without damaging the switch. When things are correct and working fine and the switches are positioned on the left side then you'll never normally pass the home switch unless there's an issue and if something does go wrong and passes it then not far away will be the Limit switches.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
OK, so I warned of a whole heap of questions when I first started this project. Here are a few of the ones at the top of my list... If anyone would be kind enough to answer just one that would be very much appreciated! I hope they make sense...
- Should I rebate/slot the aluminium plate where the aluminium extrusion butts up against it? Would there be anything to benefit alignment strength wise? I have done this with the extrusion piece connecting the gantry sides at the bottom but was thinking of the main X and Y extrusions.
Yes it helps with keeping things aligned and registered. If you look at the pics below you'll see the pocketed end plates where profile bolt. The pockets give the profile a register to sit against keeping rails aligned perfectly parallel to each other. A close fit to the profile also resists any twist.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
This is a general tolerance question. Should I perform a worst-case tolerance stack-up when calculating tolerances for holes etc? A particular question I have regarding this is the diameter of the bolt holes. I want a close-fit to aid with alignment. EDIT: So for example an M8 bolt, what clearance should I include and what is a realistic tolerance if I have the aluminium plate machined manually or on a CNC mill? I'm going to use the ANSI dimensions for hole clearances etc. Should I go for close or normal fit for bolt clearance?
Problem with close fit is that unless everything is machined absolutely perfect and to the same tolerances then the potential for miss alignment greatly increases. Being realistic and considering the DIY factor then you want some wiggle room so leave at least normal amount of hole clearance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
Following on from the above question...Another particular example of the tolerance question is where the Hiwin carriages are recessed into the gantry 'uprights'. The carriage blocks are 44mm high (I cannot see a tolerance in the datasheet...). Lets assume this tolerance is +/-0.1mm. Should I specify the slot in the upright to be 44.2mm +/-0.1mm? This would ensure the part would definitely fit, however if the carriage was only 39.9mm then this fit may not be tight?
Doesn't matter if the recess or slot is wider than the carriages. What matters is the slot has a Machined reference edge which the Carriage Reference edge sits and registers too. Again look at the picture of the Gantry uprights (bits8) the long slot with 4 holes is for the Carriages and the top edge registers against the carriage Ref edge but the slot is 1mm wider than the carriages. Having the slot a tight fit would make no difference other than making it harder to fit.!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
Would my design benefit from an Aluminium plate across the back of the two extrusions on the X axis? If so, should I mount this to the two gantry 'uprights' as well as the extrusions? Would 10mm thickness suffice?
Yes & Yes.!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
In my current design I have the Y axis hiwin carriages mounted to the lower portion of the 80x80 extrusion profiles. Would there be much difference/benefit in mounting these to the upper portion?
Slightly better in the top has the distance from carriage mounting to top off gantry is reduced so having a similar affect to shortening the gantry height.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
How do you determine how heigh to have your Z axis? What I mean by this is do you design around a typical flute length and add some? Should the Z axis be able to go through the bed?
Think more about drill lengths than End mills has they tend to be longer. Just workout the thickest material your likely to use then allow for either a longish drill bit or long end mill.
Regards cutting thru the bed then that depends, you want it to at least cut a few mill into the bed for surfacing.
Something to think about and I often do on wood routers is allow the spindle to pass the end of the bed, which often unless designed not to they often do anyway. Then make the Z axis with a little more travel so it can machine down past the bed.? This way you can machine into the edges of panels etc or cut over height material by clamping to end of machine.
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Thank you very much! I will digest this information tomorrow...hopefully get let out of Jury Service early!
Dave
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JAZZCNC
Yep 6 + 3.!!
Doesn't matter if the recess or slot is wider than the carriages. What matters is the slot has a Machined reference edge which the Carriage Reference edge sits and registers too. Again look at the picture of the Gantry uprights (bits8) the long slot with 4 holes is for the Carriages and the top edge registers against the carriage Ref edge but the slot is 1mm wider than the carriages. Having the slot a tight fit would make no difference other than making it harder to fit.!!
If I have read this correct, the top edge "registers" with the carriage (i.e. points it in the right direction?) but does not actually have a close/touch fit with the carriage?
Another question regarding clearances... I am in the process of adding milled out sections in the end plates to locate the extrusions. Should I allow an additional margin (say 0.5mm??) for the extrusion? Or should I design an 80x80 slot with 4mm radius corners as per the extrusion?
Thanks,
Dave
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Little update... It doesnt look like much has changed but I've added a lot of minor details. Currently ALL aluminium plate is 20mm thick. Does anyone think this is overkill for the plate which attaches to the X axis carriages (on top of gantry) and the plate which attaches the motor mount to the Z axis?
My useable bed dimension is now 343mm x 434mm. I think that's fairly reasonable for what I will be cutting.
Attachment 7969
Dave
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
If I have read this correct, the top edge "registers" with the carriage (i.e. points it in the right direction?) but does not actually have a close/touch fit with the carriage?
Yes the top edge sits directly on the carriages, the edge acts has the register. If you have them already look at the carriages and at least one edge will be machined, this the the reference edge.
The rails will also have a Machined Ref edge, exactly the same applies with the rails regards Referencing against an edge thou in your case using profile you will only be able to do this if you machine the profile or have a separate plate machined which bolts to the profile.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
Another question regarding clearances... I am in the process of adding milled out sections in the end plates to locate the extrusions. Should I allow an additional margin (say 0.5mm??) for the extrusion? Or should I design an 80x80 slot with 4mm radius corners as per the extrusion?
The only sure way is to measure the profile your using then machine to light interference fit. Wouldn't suggest you have them machined without the profile first if your wanting close fit.
Same goes for anything you want machined really, don't trust Cad or dimensional drawings where fit is important has there is always some slight difference waiting to bite you. Can't beat having the part in your hands and I won't machine anything were tight or close tolerance is important without parts in hand.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
Currently ALL aluminium plate is 20mm thick. Does anyone think this is overkill for the plate which attaches to the X axis carriages (on top of gantry) and the plate which attaches the motor mount to the Z axis?
Nope it's perfect and will help reduce resonance. . . .Certainly wouldn't go below 15-16mm.
Can I suggest you change the position of the BK/BF bearing blocks and put them on the outsides of the gantry and End plates, or at least the motor side bearing.?
The way you have them on the inside will mean they are trapped between the gantry side and end plates which will make fitting very awkward and inflexible, will also mean they need to be done at the same time has bolting profile together.:thumbdown:
Put them on the outside at the motor end and you can insert the screw thru the ends/sides after building frame. Notice you have the motor mounts has closed blocks like this Attachment 7970 so just machine the inside to clear the bearing block and fitting will be much easier and very neat, The bearing will also be protected from crap inside the motor mount so that's another plus.!!
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Quick question, do end mills tend to come in 'standard' lengths? I am still struggling to calculate my Z axis height. I only have 90mm of travel to play with on the KR33 so it's fairly critical.
On a side note, I have fairly drastically reduced the size of the plate which attaches the motor mount to the KR33. The idea being that the motor mount is almost exactly centralised on the two KR33 carriages to reduce canter-levering effects. Good idea?
Dave
Attachment 8061
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
BUMP BUMP.!!
Thought I'd replyed to this question.?? Obviously not but did mean too.!
Look more towards drills has they tend to be the longest things you'll put in the spindle.
Endmills can be various lengths depending on flute length. Common 6mm typical standard endmill will have a flute length around 12-15mm and stick out around 18-20mm. Overall length roughly 55mm.
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Thanks JAZZ, I will do some calculations.
There is one thing that has been bugging me for a long time regarding setting up material to be cut. Here goes!....
1. Lets say I have placed an aluminium billet roughly in the centre of my bed and I want to cut a simple motor mount out of it. Lets assume that the billet is slightly bigger than the size of the motor mount. How do I align the router up so that the flute is in the right place to start cutting?! I assume that if the billet is larger than the part then you would manually put it in the corner somewhere?
2. Now here comes the real question. Lets assume I have finished milling one side of the mount and I need to turn it over and mill the other side. How do I ensure that the mount is in exactly the same place once flipped?! Or would you put it in a new position and somewhere align the cutter in exactly the right place to start cutting?
:hypnotysed:
I hope I am not missing something obvious here! :)
Cheers,
Dave
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
1. if the billet is oversize, just touch of roughly from the relevant sides. Touching of can be as simple as with the cutter spinning, just jogging up until the cutter marks the material, then hitting the relevant zero button (or entering size if not working of zero)
2. Depends on tools at hand, and how many you'll be doing.
For any more than a few, you really need to make up some kind of jig capable of accurate mounting.
However for one offs, you really need some kind of additional tool. For cnc, a touch probe is the best suited, however there's nothing stopping you from using old manual techniques, such as edgefinders, dial gauges, bit of paper stuck on, and jogging up to where you need to be.
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Thank you, that confirms what I suspected!
On a slightly different topic, where is a good place to buy a set of end mills? Just after standard metric sizes...if such a thing exists! It will also help me work out my Z axis height.
Cheers,
Dave
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Do a search on here, as it's been discussed before.
Endmills I get from ArcEuroTrade when I'm ordering other stuff, but I'm using a milling machine and don't use that many non-insert endmills. What I do are mostly 12mm, with the occasional 6 or 8mm. Router needs are very different.
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
M_C answered most of it but here's couple more suggestions.
1. A: Good Habbit to get into starts at the Cad when you define the part. I always place it 2 or 3mm in from X0Y0 then when you touch off the billet side you know you'll always be inside it and won't run off the edge.
B:Another way is to draw the outline of the billet in cad and have X0Y0 on the corner and work piece inside it.
2. Easy way for one-off's if working from square/rectangular billet is to use the billet corner has X0Y0 like in option B: above then when you flip just make sure the edge is parallel to Axis and pick up X0Y0 from corner again.
Problem comes when you can't work from square/rec stock or if need to relocate already completely machined parts.?
In this case then it's often better to place X0 Y0 in cad on a hole centre or other defining feature that's easily picked up off using touch probe or other manual technique.
Regards the touch probe then doesn't need to be any fancy or expensive tool just piece of wire with plate on the end of a known thickness and using a spare input setup in the control has probe input. Then put plate between tool and work piece.
So long has the tool diameter is known you can just use what ever tool is in the spindle for quick touch off, if you want very accurate position then best to use accurately known shaft or tool shank.
(Tip: If your working with Ali or metals and can isolate the work piece from the main frame or Ground then you don't even need to put the plate between the tool and work piece so can enter just tool radius into DRO for offset. Just touch probe wire to work piece.)
This can then be used in few ways either by using the G31 probe command directly and telling it the axis direction and distance to travel looking for the edge.
Then when it's touched off you zero the Axis DRO's and type the radius of the cutter + plate thickness directly into the Axis DRO to give correct offset from edge.
To find hole centres you'd do this for each X,Y axis if you know the hole radius then type that minus the cutter radius + plate thickness has either positive or negative value depending on which side of hole you probed has the new offset.
With that said the best way and easiest way when it comes to probing is to use pre designed scripts with probe commands etc for each type of probe routine you want to do which does all the offsets etc for you then add a button to your screen set so it's a one click affair.! . . . OR . . .
By far the best and easier way if you use Mach3 is just buy Gerry's 2010 screen set which has all the probe routines you'll need and more besides. The CNC Woodworker - Mach3 2010
With this screen set and simple touch plate on wire you'll very accurately find most locations and will be the best £15 you ever spent.
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Looks to be a nice build project. I will be watching your WIP with interest as the size and style are similar to the one I am thinking about trying to design and then build. I fear it will take me some time to get my project off the ground though.
Andy
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Wow, over a year has passed since I last touched this project! (too many other projects getting in the way...)
I have decided to sell my laser cutter and put the money towards funding this new project....
I have been doing quite a bit of thinking and have concluded that if I'm going to do this I may as well do it properly! Browsing the forum I came across a design by JAZZCNC which looks much more substantial. In fact it may look a little overkill for what I need. I may be aiming to use more aluminium profile to keep costs down. Although I really have no idea as to how much those ally plates (gantry in the link below) would cost to have machined?
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/6274-...ext-step/page2
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
biketrialsdave
In fact it may look a little overkill for what I need. I may be aiming to use more aluminium profile to keep costs down. Although I really have no idea as to how much those ally plates (gantry in the link below) would cost to have machined?
Aluminium profile doesn't always keep the cost down by the time you factor other things like fixings etc which you will need to take advantage of profile.
Granted the design of mine you have been looking at does require quite a bit of machine work and really you need a machine to build this one but the aluminium it's self won't cost much more than Profile by the time you have factored in all the hidden items profile needs and it's much stronger and neater.
To be honest how far you want or need to go depends on the type of work your planning on using the machine to do. If your mostly using it for Router type duty's IE: Wood, plastics etc then you don't need to go this far but if your wanting to cut aluminium with any decent depth of cut and finish quality then this is a minimum. Now this machine was designed from the begining as an all round machine which can do a decent job of all tasks but Make no mistakes this does come at a price and slightly makes it master of None.
If you want the best machine without having to go silly on design and work required then your much better targeting the main use and build to that. This way you get a machine that is the best it can be and give great results at sensible money and time frame to build.
If you are prepared to learn welding or can weld then Buildng from Steel will save you lots of money and is quite forgiving. It makes possible for very strong machine chassis cheaply. This then allows you to spend money where it matters most and that is on correct linear components and quality electronics.
There will be some Aluminium parts required like Z axis but the major chassis parts like frame and Gantry can be made from steel if done correctly.
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Thank you for another informative post!
I have just picked up some used THK HSR15 linear rails (4x 815mm Long, 2 blocks each) for a very reasonable price. I would of preferred 20mm but these should be up to the job...
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Some progress on the new design...
Many more questions to follow! =)
Attachment 12680Attachment 12681
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Hi dave, put some additional ali profile in between the current lengths, then lock it all together from the back so its more like one solid mass.
.Me
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Good suggestion, had something like that in mind. As the design currently is there is a 120mm gap between the top and bottom profile pieces on the gantry. That would nicely fit another piece of profile and completely enclose the back (although then I wouldn't have easy access). Either that or perhaps some vertical pieces of profile between the two horizontal pieces maybe?
Attachment 12682
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Re: CNC Router V1.0 Build Log (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
Attachment 12693
A axis added - some detail missing.