Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Good you've got that sorted.
I've recently installed an MDF baseboard with M8 threaded inserts at 100mm intervals. It seemed a sensible spacing at the time but I'd go for 75mm if I was doing it again. For reasons that don't matter here the holes are not quite aligned to the 100mm multiples on the X and Y co-ordinates of the machine which slightly complicates designing cutting layouts when I want to fix the blanks directly to the table rather than use clamps.
Kit
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Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Hi All, as promised a few photos of my first "completed" build. I've finally managed to make my first cuts, press go and leave my creation to cut something which is a great moment after starting from almost zero knowledge!
First CAM lesson - Fusion 360 doesn't automatically add D.O.C so plunged the full 10mm and I had to reduce to 20% Feed Rate.
Big thanks to everyone who has answered various newbie questions on here over the past 6 months, Jazz, AndyUK, Kitwin, Doddy, Clive and others !
I still need to level my wasteboard and tram the spindle but It's not far off. My 100mm x 100mm square was 0.05mm or so out, but then the bit was a cheap chinese router bit which claimed to be 1/2" but wasn't exactly.
Aside from sorting a better wasteboard I really need some dust extraction, especially testing on MDF.
Are there any particularly good dust shoes people can recommend - I only have a small distance at the bottom of spindle as the mount is low so something compatible would be good.
I have a basic metal drum type dust extractor - fine for normal woodworking but its loud and I doubt rated for continuous use. What do people use for quieter solutions?
PS. Don't judge me on my messy wiring:) Lucky I have a diagram
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Ryan
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Well done Ryan, and let the fun begin.:yahoo: .....you'll kill lots of cutters and material at first but that's just part of the learning we all have to go thru.
Don't be surprised if you have to keep tweaking the machine for a few weeks as it settles down. It's a good idea to run it for a couple of weeks or so then go over it top to bottom checking screws and connections etc, esp motor pulleys/couplers. (Dab a bit of paint on the shafts as a quick visual aid for slippage)
Now you just need to cut the Aztec calendar acid test and we'll let you in the Aztec Gang... :toot:
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Cheers Jazz - will give it a once over and remember I actually need to grease it..
Ha, well I've managed to bend one bit so far - luckily a cheap one, but amazing how easily the 5.5Nm bends it like a twig..!
Maybe I'll give the Aztec a go in MDF first - does that count:)
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by CNCRY
First CAM lesson - Fusion 360 doesn't automatically add D.O.C so plunged the full 10mm and I had to reduce to 20% Feed Rate.
All good stuff. Re. Fusion - are you sure?, I'm on the wrong computer atm to check but there's usually a flag on the 3rd-or-4th tab with something like a "multiple heights" or similar name that allows a DOC to be specified. From memory...bad memory.
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
CNCRY
PS. Don't judge me on my messy wiring:) Lucky I have a diagram
In my experience a lot of 'neat' professional wiring is actually messy wiring hidden in swanky looking trunking. Enjoy your new toy.
Kit
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
CNCRY
Cheers Jazz - will give it a once over and remember I actually need to grease it..
Ha, well I've managed to bend one bit so far - luckily a cheap one, but amazing how easily the 5.5Nm bends it like a twig..!
Maybe I'll give the Aztec a go in MDF first - does that count:)
Wait until 5.5Nm rips the material from the bed and throws across the room or you program 100 instead if 10 on a Z move and in blink of an eye it's punched a nice neat hole thru your bed(not that I've done this before.:whistle:)
Regards Aztec and MDF then don't do a small one in MDF because it doesn't hold the detail good enough. You need a harder material that holds nice edge for smaller ones like 6" to get the full affect and see all the tiny details.
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
I've been cutting and engraving a few test pieces, mainly MDF or softwoods while I learn more on the CAD and tool-paths. And remembering to zero Z after a tool change.!
First "proper" project is to make a dust shoe - I figured it'll end up slightly cheaper then buying and be interesting working with cutting plastic.
So the one I'm making is the Avid CNC one, using magnets to allow removal of the brush https://www.cncrouterparts.com/unive...hoe-p-396.html.
Helpfully they provide the fusion design with parametric value, so it can be edited to hose/spindle size. I'll be making it out of HDPE plastic.
I'm also thinking about trying some aluminium and wondering do I need a mister, or at least air blast to do anything more than minimal work in aluminium? Or would the dust collection remove chips enough?
I have one of these basic eBay misters https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/f..._Collar_02.png but no compressor yet as most things I read suggest you need a fairly decent tank size to prevent overheating.
I also looked at silent "dentist type" however the price goes up a fair amount!
Any advice from those who have "been there and tried that" :)
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
You dont 'need' to have anything for aluminium providing you don't slot too deep or you risk welding to your tooling, it does help massively to have chip evacuation but I get away with it just!
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Quote:
I'm also thinking about trying some aluminium and wondering do I need a mister, or at least air blast to do anything more than minimal work in aluminium? Or would the dust collection remove chips enough?
I have one of these basic eBay misters
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/f..._Collar_02.png but no compressor yet as most things I read suggest you need a fairly decent tank size to prevent overheating.
I also looked at silent "dentist type" however the price goes up a fair amount!
Any advice from those who have "been there and tried that" :)
Different grades of alli will cut differently. 6082T is generally ok or 7 series and cast alli . just spay a bit of WD40 or equivalent helps but if you get the feeds and speeds correct it will cut fine.
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
I have some parts I'd eventually like to make which would involve cutting out/slotting 25mm or so deep. Would a small compressor assist at least , even if it ends up filling the tank 50% of the time, but is quiet when it does it !
Something like https://www.lawnandpower.co.uk/produ...xoC-hwQAvD_BwE
I'll do some experimenting soon !
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
I had a Peak Scientific compressor - around 25l, dentist job, silent as anything, and pretty useless for mist-cooling. With a low CFM and a small tank, it exhausted quickly, even just with a hand-help airgun where I could regulate things myself. The main problem was the low duty-cycle for the motor - after an hour cutting, and cooling, the compressor would overheat and cut-off until it cooled... that's when the WD40 would come out and smoke-out the shed.
Here's a hint: Unfortunate, but true, there's an awful lot of pubs going to the wall. I recently found a 50l (not much bigger), but similarly silent and 100% duty cycle compressor from a clearance of a brewery that had gone down the swanny. I'm not proud of taking advantage, but 40 quid later and I'm giving the old compressor away. Keep an eye on the auctions.
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Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Been busy this week sorting out a ply threaded board, used 75mm spacing as suggested rather then 100+
I then have a second piece of MDF on top with holes but its not glued, just bolted down at various points currently.
The M8 bolt fixing is working pretty well, using simply bolts and washers to clamp the edge, however without gluing the MDF spoil board I can't surface it accurately which is an issue, just wondering if there is a better alternative to gluing ... screwing with slightly countersunk holes?
So much to learn about fusion 360 CAM still - managed to make my first aluminium part! Simple pocket toolpath and cutout, but I was pretty happy with the finish, not that I have much to compare to, just it did it first time with no issues.
Couple of sprays of WD-40 but used 17,500rpm with 1mm DOC, 6mm 2 flute end mill.
It's a um... coaster?
Attachment 28523
May give the Aztec calendar a go Jazz , is there any specific high quality STL file you have for fusion 360 - as a few various ones out there I've found?
Also, does anyone have any suggestions for the best way to face a surface that fits in an ER-20 collet? I've seen flycutters etc mentioned but most are too large - any recommendations?
Ryan
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Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Hi everyone,
After a couple of months with minimal time to spend on the CNC, finally getting back into it. Learnt lots but still much more to learn, as is always the way..
So one thing I hadn't fully thought out in the design is how to grease the Z bearing blocks. The nipples are in the right place (must avoid obvious jokes here..) but the grease gun "Nozzle" wont fit in the space to engage properly.
So I'm thinking of using the side inlets - only recently realised that was possible.
Hiwin say you should carefully pierce the side inlet with a hot metal rod to avoid chips in the bearings. Do you then have to insert a new grease nipple (can't see a thread) or is there a different type of nozzle available you can just pressure fit and fire in the grease. I can't have a permanent fixing as it would hit the side plate.
Attachment 28997
Thanks
Ryan
what kind of forum is this?
I would like to know what kind of forum is this? phpbb? Guci
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Take a look at the very bottom of the screen.
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Thanks Kered - sounds like a cost saving option, although I'm not sure I'd trust myself with self made high pressure tanks. Maybe one to add to the list to try:)
I've been spending most of my time on wood recently so not progressed the mist coolant plan at all as yet!
Top of my list for improvements/purchases now are
- handheld wireless controller for UCCNC (as sticking the laptop on the bandsaw table while I set part zero isn't ideal)
- Improve the table/spoilboard combination.
Currently I have a sheet of 12mm ply on top of the base's cross pieces which is drilled and inserted T nuts. Problem is sometimes they drop out the bottom as the bolt knocks them out when trying to fix something , which is a pain. Plus 12mm ply isn't the most stable material.
Current options - either some aluminum T-slot, steel t-slot , pre drilled and tapped steel grid plate or buy a sheet of aluminum then surface and use the machine to "drill" a grid of holes.
I don't have much Z height so needs to be <20mm maximum.
Anyone tried these or have any comments?
Thanks!
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
CNCRY
Top of my list for improvements/purchases now are
- handheld wireless controller for UCCNC (as sticking the laptop on the bandsaw table while I set part zero isn't ideal)
When your ready get in touch as I'm now stocking Controllers etc from CncDrive and have just got one of the UCR201 wireless controllers to test and I can tell you it's an amazing bit of kit. One of the best I've ever used.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
CNCRY
Currently I have a sheet of 12mm ply on top of the base's cross pieces which is drilled and inserted T nuts. Problem is sometimes they drop out the bottom as the bolt knocks them out when trying to fix something , which is a pain. Plus 12mm ply isn't the most stable material.
Current options - either some aluminum T-slot, steel t-slot , pre drilled and tapped steel grid plate or buy a sheet of aluminum then surface and use the machine to "drill" a grid of holes.
I don't have much Z height so needs to be <20mm maximum.
Anyone tried these or have any comments?
Thanks!
I've used just about every method and my personal favorite by a long way is the Matrix grid of tapped holes. It gives the most flexibility and if combined with a few strips of T-slot in strategic places there's not much you can't hold.
I wouldn't buy a rolled plate and surface it thou as it releases stress and moves around, ground cast tooling plate is much better and doesn't move around when you drill/tap it.
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
CNCRY
Hi everyone,
After a couple of months with minimal time to spend on the CNC, finally getting back into it. Learnt lots but still much more to learn, as is always the way..
So one thing I hadn't fully thought out in the design is how to grease the Z bearing blocks. The nipples are in the right place (must avoid obvious jokes here..) but the grease gun "Nozzle" wont fit in the space to engage properly.
So I'm thinking of using the side inlets - only recently realised that was possible.
Hiwin say you should carefully pierce the side inlet with a hot metal rod to avoid chips in the bearings. Do you then have to insert a new grease nipple (can't see a thread) or is there a different type of nozzle available you can just pressure fit and fire in the grease. I can't have a permanent fixing as it would hit the side plate.
Attachment 28997
Thanks
Ryan
Did you manage to solve the greasing issue?
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Hi NordicCNC - I ended up making a hole in the side inlets - 2.5mm I believe (as hiwin spec sheet) and using the small blanking bolts to seal the holes when not in use. Then used a conical adaptor for the grease gun to grease from the new holes - seems to work well.
Got around to upgrading my machine base - ended up getting 12mm aluminum tooling plate and using the router to drill 100 M8 holes @ 75mm spacing. Then the fun of tapping 100 by hand:)
I'm sure a thicker plate would give even more rigidity but It's much more rigid/less deflection than the 12mm ply ! Plus no more threaded inserts falling out all the time. It's also nice and shiny (for now)..
Added a ply spoilboard for now, but planning to use phenolic on top in the future.
Attachment 29334
Re: Aluminium Profile Type Router - Initial questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
CNCRY
Is that finish on the edge of your plates waterjet or laser cut? Been considering those as a cheaper option for getting mine cut but I’d like the edges to be all nice and smooth.
Cracking machine by the way, well done getting it all up and running so quick! [emoji482]
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