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  1. #11
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Days Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,908. Received thanks 360 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    If I've worked it out right, all that's needed is a bit angle, with four holes on one side for bolting to the cross brace, then on the other side a big hole (21.5mm) for the anti-backlash nut to pass through, with another two holes for bolting the nut on via the flange (having looked at the dumpsterCNC site, I'm guessing you're for the 25mm cut-down flange option?).
    Something suitable could be made with a pillar drill, a couple drill bits, and a hole saw.

    Regarding mounting the nut, I'd use a couple nyloc nuts with plain washers to spread the load. I'd also put the bolts through from the alloy side, tighten them into the flange, then use the nylocs to make sure the bolts can't move.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    Something suitable could be made with a pillar drill, a couple drill bits, and a hole saw.
    Yes, I was thinking that so thought there must be more to it.

  3. Okay,

    Let's see if I can get these files up properly.



    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sorry that they are jpeg's as it would not let me load the .dwg or .iges file format. That is the bracket I designed to go with a dumpsterCNC anti backlash nut for a 12mm trapezoid leadscrew. Clearance is only 40mm in height. Any opinions???

    Also Checking on available box Aluminium in the area but is looking like I have a really good source of off cuts (some over 2 metres) of 12mm Aluminium plate. Any and all views would be greatly appreciated.

    Michael

  4. #14
    How are you joining the two pieces together? That joint needs to be strong so that an axial force on the screw does not bend the bracket. I'd be inclined to either make it out of one piece, or use something thicker for the vertical part.

    Quote Originally Posted by m.marino View Post
    Also Checking on available box Aluminium in the area but is looking like I have a really good source of off cuts (some over 2 metres) of 12mm Aluminium plate. Any and all views would be greatly appreciated.
    Excellent, can I have some ?

  5. #15
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Days Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,908. Received thanks 360 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    Looks fine. If you can't find a bit suitable angle, it could be roughed from a bit solid alu with minimal effort.

    Or if you could survive with steel, I might even have a bit suitable angle lying around (I think I came across some 2 or 3" angle during a search for something else the other week!).


    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Excellent, can I have some ?
    I'm nearer and can collect :naughty:

  6. The idea was for it to be of a single piece of either angle or mill from block. That should insure the rigidity of the piece. As far as the Aluminium is concerned drop me a line folks and will try to arrange something. I need to be going down there any how to see if they have any square tube stock that could be drilled and bolt together for the new frame.

    Looking through old threads hear for sources of materials and looking like I just might be able to get both up and running (which would be great as I have work to keep two to three mills going for the next month and a half at least).

    Still building and still kicking.

    Michael

  7. What took so long and what is taking time. Is a drawing I am working on to improve my skill working with the new program. I really like ViaCAD 2D/3Dv8 for CAD work over the program I was using. To give you an idea of what I was doing here is a Jpeg of the Nut.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	12mm backlash nut.jpg 
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    So that is one of the projects I am working on. Also designing replacement combs for Bends Chromatic harmonicas (48's,56's,64's)as the business closed their doors down in Brazil (but have not sold off their stock so who knows). Hohner Meisterclasse acrylic comb and once the new mill is built acrylic mouth pieces for the Hohner and Suzuki Bass harmonicas. As well as slowly plugging along at reverse engineering the Hohner harmonetta (which I am now considered and OEM parts provider for that instrument by Hohner). That and other odd bits and pieces. Then milling them. Oh, yeah and jigs to make for more accurate set up.

    Michael
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  8. Okay,

    Ordering the 2 - 12m anti backlash nuts from Dumpster. One for the 12mm on X axis and one for the Y axis. Looking at getting a piece of 12 Aluminium to go across the gantry to add a bit of ridgeness and boring out the section of Z axis that rides on Y so that it will accept 16x20x30 mm Oilite bushings to it and most likely do the same to the bushings on the Z itself to get less flex and better wear as the current bushings are looking to need replacing and with less then 300 hours cutting time on the machine, I think upgrading if possible would be the wise way to go. Only need to drill out the 30x120 extrusion to accept the new bushings.

    Also putting in new Bearings on the end and switching to stainless steel with rubber seals and see how that goes. Still working on the new machine and have bought the Z ball screw from Gary at Zap and just need to earn the rest of the money to buy the parts (also need to draw up my ideas and let you folks have a field day with them).

    Anyway take care folks and have a great day. More information as it happens.

    Michael

  9. Okay on a space and accuracy level, are using Oilite type bushings worth doing over linear bearings? This is doing improvement and part rebuild of a Marchant Dice MDL-TR-2 gantry router. I am building a new Z for it so that I can mount the A axis I have for it on board and starts being able to cut both sides of an item and let the machine do the flip. Going to linear bearings takes about 30mm of travel out of Y due to the required widening of the Z body to allow for the bearing blocks. On the other hand it will increase smooth play of travel.

    So, any and all input as I am really up in arms on it and it is bottle necking this point in the design structure.

    Thanks for all the input you have given.

    Michael

  10. #20
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Days Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,908. Received thanks 360 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    It will be far easier to get linear bearings accurate.
    Oilite bushes would have to be sized (either via boring, or reaming) after being installed to ensure accuracy, as oilite bushes are pretty soft things and will deform during installation, unless you use an accurately sized mandrel to press them in (even then chances are they'll deform slightly)

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