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  1. #21
    Like what?

  2. #22
    Fred's Avatar
    Lives in Reigate, Albania. Last Activity: 24-04-2018 Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 34. Received thanks 4 times, giving thanks to others 1 times.
    I was thinking of things like Delrin, acrylic, nylon. There are a few different engineering plastics that might fit the bill. I didn't really specify one as I don't know your other criteria like weight, cost, durability, etc.

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  4. #23
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 3 Days Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,908. Received thanks 360 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    You'll probably find the item you linked to has been laser cut, which will avoid any MDF furring issues, then given a coat of some form of fast drying paint to minimise absorption. It will also likely of been baked very quickly, so the paint is most likely set within minutes of being applied, and if needed a second coat applied to give a better finish.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

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  6. #24
    MDF looks nice when sealed with Acrylic Primer , used in cars and then finished at least with 2 component Polyurethane Paint. Or car paint.

    If perfect finish is desired, it should be treated exactly like painting an expensive car. Thick primer, Thin Primer, etc...

    Having said that the typical industrial finish is Polyurethane.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  7. #25
    name or link me up with some products ;)

    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    MDF looks nice when sealed with Acrylic Primer , used in cars and then finished at least with 2 component Polyurethane Paint. Or car paint.

    If perfect finish is desired, it should be treated exactly like painting an expensive car. Thick primer, Thin Primer, etc...

    Having said that the typical industrial finish is Polyurethane.

  8. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    name or link me up with some products ;)
    Don't you have a local professional paint shop or a place where they sell car parts to mechanics? These are the right places to find all cheap and compatible.

    I did not get if you would be painting professionally or not, but i assume yes.


    1. You need a proper Gun/s . Saving money here will make you sorry later. These are the guns i made a present to my wife's father. he is a carpenter and uses them exactly for the same purpose like you. This is just basic setup. Just to compare i am using a cheapo chinese gun for crap and 400euro 3m gun for important stuff.

    You will need that sizes nozzles for the primers and the other for the actual painting

    2 x Devilbiss SLG-620 Compliant Spray Gun Gravity Feed 1.3mm/1.8mm Paint/Primers



    2. Any normal car primer will do / not if you use epoxy, you will need a better one.

    Synthetic High Build Primer Grey Fast Drying 1L/5L


    3. Hempel is a good quality polyurethane paint. Though as i said your local paint shop is your best bet, as there paint will be around 18GBP, and they will have the proper thinner and base. hempel for example is double the price.

    In short, locally=cheaper, better
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  9. #27
    PS. Without air drier =Mission Impossible. DIY one from water filter vase filled with reusable silica

    Click image for larger version. 

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    PS2. Even if you are tempted to use cans, dont do it. You will never even get close to the desired result, whatever sb would advise you. There is no free lunch.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  10. #28
    There are no short cuts to a really good finish. And it all starts with the material, and preparation.
    MDF is probably not the right material for a high quality paint finish. High density fiberboard is a better choice, as it's less porous.

    Any wood type product is going to need all of the pores sealed, followed by a heavy coat of primer, sanding, filling, more primer, and more sanding before it's ready for a top coat.

    As I mentioned earlier, I seal my MDF with epoxy.
    My method will eliminate most priming and sanding, but it's time intensive.
    Cut your part about .1mm oversize, and leave an onion skin of about .25-.5mm thick. Do not remove it from your machine!!
    Brush a heavy coat of epoxy over all surfaces, especially cut edges. Wait a few minutes, and do it again, so it soaks in thoroughly.
    Wipe off any excess from the top surface, as you don't want to have to sand or machine it away.
    Let cure.
    Cut your part to the finished side.
    The edges should be smooth, like a hard plastic, right off the machine. Prime and paint.
    Gerry
    ______________________________________________
    UCCNC 2022 Screenset

    Mach3 2010 Screenset

    JointCAM - CAM for Woodworking Joints

  11. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Ger21 View Post
    Cut your part about .1mm oversize
    Gerry you do realise this is UK.?. . . . We have moisture on top of moisture here.! 0.1mm in MDF will last about 30's before it's changed shape again. . .Lol

    Also got to realise we are still 20yr behind USA and we don't have such places like Wall mart so materials you take for granted like HDFB are like rocking horse droppings around here and cost twice as much every where else in world if find supplier and then they will be to order only.!! . . . . And you'll have to order 100sht's. . .
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 05-07-2016 at 01:42 AM.

  12. #30
    Gerry you do realise this is UK
    Not for much longer, according to the news here.
    Gerry
    ______________________________________________
    UCCNC 2022 Screenset

    Mach3 2010 Screenset

    JointCAM - CAM for Woodworking Joints

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