How to get this finish?

[andy_con]

when you go to shops etc... and they products have perfect finishes like this

https://www.clintonsretail.com/weddi...-photo-frame-1

how is it achieved, powder coating?

[magicniner]

For wood that has to look super-smooth you need a sealer coat to stop the thinner from subsequent coats deferentially soaking into the wood and creating "sink marks" which reveal the substrate texture.
Follow that with a self-levelling primer, then your finish coat. If the primer isn't 2-pack you may still get a slight matting/texture to the finish surface as thinner will leech out of the top coat into solvent evaporation drying primer giving a less than perfectly flat finish.

You also need a clean environment to spray in, ceiling and walls should be cleaned with clean wet cloth and the floor is best mopped and left wet to prevent any dust.
If you build a polythene sheet spray booth inside another structure a clean air flow with positive pressure is ideal, as is air-fed breathing apparatus.
For small items it's possible to build a spray booth like a blast cabinet with painter and the process air flow kept completely separate,

- Nick

[andy_con]

so not powder coating then.

could you get this finish on mdf? once mdf has been machined it sides are very fibery

For wood that has to look super-smooth you need a sealer coat to stop the thinner from subsequent coats deferentially soaking into the wood and creating "sink marks" which reveal the substrate texture.
Follow that with a self-levelling primer, then your finish coat. If the primer isn't 2-pack you may still get a slight matting/texture to the finish surface as thinner will leech out of the top coat into solvent evaporation drying primer giving a less than perfectly flat finish.

You also need a clean environment to spray in, ceiling and walls should be cleaned with clean wet cloth and the floor is best mopped and left wet to prevent any dust.
If you build a polythene sheet spray booth inside another structure a clean air flow with positive pressure is ideal, as is air-fed breathing apparatus.
For small items it's possible to build a spray booth like a blast cabinet with painter and the process air flow kept completely separate,

- Nick

[mekanik]

MDF isn't easy to get the sort of finish you require, as mentioned it first needs to be sealed, then rubbed down ect, very labour intensive. i have used a product called eposeal, it's a two part epoxy and very thin but when dry it can be rubbed down and should be sealed(used it to seal some Iroko windows that had water penetration)
Mike
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gurit-SP30...EAAOSw~FNUaR5p

[andy_con]

many thanks

so whats a good wood to use then as im well aware mdf is poo. mdf just happens to be cheap and you can buy in large sheets

MDF isn't easy to get the sort of finish you require, as mentioned it first needs to be sealed, then rubbed down ect, very labour intensive. i have used a product called eposeal, it's a two part epoxy and very thin but when dry it can be rubbed down and should be sealed(used it to seal some Iroko windows that had water penetration)
Mike
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gurit-SP30...EAAOSw~FNUaR5p

[mekanik]

Now that's the question?
I dont have a CNC so have to do my woodworking using router/spindle the advantage with CNC is you can take off very small cuts using high feed rates and i believe this vastly reduces breakout. If you don't want to make them out of acrylic i think i would try some quality beech ply, but that's only a guess.
Mike

[Lee Roberts]

If it was me I would spray the finish, dulux undercoat with dulux liquid gloss for the top coat. Thin them both down enough that they pass well through your spray system but also coat the job well, light sand in between coats and the job should turn out very nice.

With any paint job, the finish is a result of the prep, so on this, only you can decide what level of prep your willing to go to.

Edit/tip: Warm the paint up in the tin first as it makes it much easier to apply and with good spray gear you may not need any thinning.

.Me

[andy_con]

not sure dulux would cut it, especially watered down. ive got some mdf primer from wickes and its ok but not great

If it was me I would spray the finish, dulux undercoat with dulux liquid gloss for the top coat. Thin them both down enough that they pass well through your spray system but also coat the job well, light sand in between coats and the job should turn out very nice.

With any paint job, the finish is a result of the prep, so on this, only you can decide what level of prep your willing to go to.

Edit/tip: Warm the paint up in the tin first as it makes it much easier to apply and with good spray gear you may not need any thinning.

.Me

[alboy]

The type of finish you are after is attainable but only with considerable time and money. Normal household paints or automotive rattle cans just do not cut it. Only one way I have found to get a decent finish on MDF.

Sand well with fine grit sanding wheel.
Apply MDF sealer,
Sand lightly again.
Use a 2 pack Hi-build primer.
Light sand with 600 grit paper.
2 or 3 coats of 2 pack finish colour,
2 or more coats of clear coat.

If you want to go this route you will need a good quality air fed spray gun, a spray booth and good PPE because the 2 pack is nasty stuff if you inhale it.

Commercial furniture spray paints are available that can do the job much easier but are expensive and you have to buy at least 100 litres at a time.

Good luck

[andy_con]

Im not after perfect juaf after a good finish

Thanks for all thd advice