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  1. #1
    This is my planned layout for the panel of my CNC control.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Herbert panel layout - actual.jpg 
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    This is a proposed wiring layout which I would like comments from people please?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	HERBERT WIRING.jpg 
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    Many thanks for taking the time to look.

    ATB,
    Ian
    Life is best lived @ G0......

  2. #2
    Ian. Welcome to the forum. Is there a reason for you to mount the VFD inside your control box as they generated a lot of heat and RF noise it is also difficult to get at the control panel on it.

    Do you have a design for the rest of the machine for you to post up.

    Good luck with the build.
    ..Clive

  3. #3
    Hi Clive,

    Not really with the VFD just trying to keep everything in one place.
    Would mounting the VFD on the side of the cabinet be okay or on the bench closer to the machine?
    I am thinking of using the V5 spindle board form DIYCNC connected to thwe BOB to control it.

    Thanks for the input

    Ian
    Life is best lived @ G0......

  4. #4
    Why would you not put the VFD in a control cabinet?
    Just because it creates heat and electrical noise is not a reason to not put it in a control cabinet.
    Stepper drivers, servo drivers and power supplies create heat and electrical noise and as long as you follow standard electrical engineering practice, then all of these problems can be resolved.
    Fitting an IP00 Inverted in a damp and dusty environment is not a great idea and can be dangerous.

    Every inverter that i have installed went into a control cabinet and any commercial machine will have the inverter in the control cabinet, so why should it be different because its a hobby machine?


    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    Ian. Welcome to the forum. Is there a reason for you to mount the VFD inside your control box as they generated a lot of heat and RF noise it is also difficult to get at the control panel on it.

    Do you have a design for the rest of the machine for you to post up.

    Good luck with the build.

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to Gary For This Useful Post:


  6. #5
    I will be using all screen cable and there is an EMI filter fitted for the VFD.
    I also have some extra metal cable sheathing to enclose the VFD wires in.
    I was planning on moving the VFD display up on to the face of the cabinet, by extending the cables.
    Like Gary said its better I thought to keep it out of the dusty etc and keep all electrics in one secure cabinet.

    Ian
    Life is best lived @ G0......

  7. #6
    My invertor is in the control cabinet and it has been OK. I made sure the power cables and signal cables were separated, cables were shielded etc. I also used a filter on the invertor power input side.

    You will need air outlets at the top of the cabinet, plus I added a vent to the left of the invertor next to the fan so it drew in air from outside directly into it.

    On your circuit diagram it looks OK from a quick look point of view, but be aware that the e-stop method you are using can be viewed as less safe. It just tells the breakout board/software that something bad has happened and you are relying on software to stop the motors.

    It's a bit more work, and there are plenty of threads on here showing how it can be done, but it is considered safer to have the e-stop trip out a relay, which in turn trips out a contactor which stops mains going into the power supplies, thereby stopping the motors 'physically'. The e-stop relay also has extra terminals which inform the software to stop sending pulses.
    You need to configure the relay to have a latching function, or use a Pilz type unit (purpose built, but more expensive).

    I ran my previous machine for years in the software only e-stop mode, as you have it, but I'm glad I have the hard stop method setup now for the extra safety.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  8. #7
    Yes I have 2 off 12v fans with metal mesh filters to blow air into the cabinet from the top with 2 side slots for evacuation of the warm air. All cables for VFD and from the motor drivers are shielded and grounded (once).
    I have re-drawn the circuit based on a plan from a thread on here from the user Jazz.
    The E-stop is based on this design and does not rely on the bob/software to stop things.
    Just not sure about this latching business or what a pilz unit is.
    Maybe someone can shed some light on this or on the updated wiring plan that will be uploaded soon.
    Cheers,
    Ian

  9. #8
    This is the updated schematic;
    Pointers would be welcome.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	HERBERT WIRING - Schematic.jpg 
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    Many thanks,
    Ian
    Life is best lived @ G0......

  10. #9
    OK, I think that relay will latch when you hit the reset, then stay on until you hit the e-stop. This will tell the BOB to stop.

    BUT ! - it looks like you are switching the mains live feed through the same 12V relay ? Don't do this. You need a contactor in-between. This is like a relay but can handle mains voltage and has purposed built contacts. It is controlled by a low voltage signal - i.e. one coming out of the safety relay.

    Either revert back to your first design, or get familiar and be happy with contactors and mains control.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  11. #10
    How to I learn about contactor and mains control?

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