Thread: Build Log - Herbert
just noticed you have a board that links between the BOB and the 0-10V line on the VFD. Is this correct?
From the photo you have used, I think that your BOB is actually able to regulate the 0-10V on its own without an additional input. Worth reading the manual on that to double check.www.emvioeng.com
Stocking more goodies than just Smoothsteppers
So that the previous drawings are all wrong.
Looking through posts from m_c, RouterCNC and Jazzcnc I have gotten certain ideas and now I have purchased the correct BOB from cnc4you I can control the VFD via the BOB.
Thanks for taking the time to view my build thread.Life is best lived @ G0......
Just to be clear, opinions expressed below are not definitive or instructions to others, but are how I've built my own control cabinet.
Firstly, forget any idea that a fuse or MCB protects the thing that they feed. Any electronic engineer will tell you that a transistor is the fastest fuse known to man. If a driver's protection circuitry fails to protect against overload, it's probable that a fuse or MCB will still be scratching its head by the time that the driver has let out the magic smoke. What the MCB does do is protect against the effect on, usually, the wiring which is now carrying fault currents and where there is now a risk of fire. I have used a single 10A d-curve MCB to feed the whole cabinet; my hope is that this will protect the wiring against a major fault in any component. VFD is outside the cabinet, separately fused, by the way.
Power comes into the cabinet, then via MCB to two-pole isolating switch. Power then goes to auxiliary power supplies (5/12/24V for various things). I use a CSMIO motion controller which is powered at this point, together with "power on" panel LED. I use a Pilz safety relay (picked up cheap from eBay). A momentary push button turns on the safety relay which latches on. One set of contacts feeds the e-stop input on the motion controller, configured so that this enables the MC. A second contact feeds a 24V relay to provide mains to the linear PSU for the drivers, plus second panel LED. A third contact is used to enable the drivers. E-stop wiring connects to the safety relay; all switches wired in series and any switch will cause the relay to drop out so sending e-stop to motion controller, disabling drivers, and cutting mains power to drivers. That seems to cover most of the safety bases, at this kind of level. At the moment, the driver fault outputs are wired in parallel to the appropriate motion controller input so, for example, driver stall detect should stop motion. Limit switches do not trigger e-stop.
Using multiple contacts on the safety relay means reduced relay count (just one, for switching the linear power supply to keep mains off the safety relay contacts), while not relying on motion controller firmware alone for safety functions.
I haven't bothered talking about things like VFD connections to the motion controller, or coolant pump switching, as these are subject to individual designs, and I'm sorry that I don't have a wiring diagram as I've never drawn one... Don't know if there are any thoughts in there that might help - happy to discuss further if need be, or defend myself against other points of view!
That's a great deal of information and something I am going to have to digest.
I am not an electrical engineer at all, my background is mechanical engineering.
But with an enquiring mind and some help from people on here I hope to be able to build a decent control panel.
My biggest concern it that if wired wrong then it could "KILL" me or at the very least cause some damage.
I can follow wiring diagrams etc and work through things (Other hobby is OO gauge model railway).
So I was hoping that someone maybe would be able to help out with a schematic or something to point in the right direction, so I do not make the good lady a widow!Life is best lived @ G0......
I've bought some stuff from Chalon online, but I get things like relays, panel switches and LEDs, from Electric Center. They have the great advantage of having a branch near me, but there are lots of branches across the country. I'm sure that there are equivalents trading under other names - that one happens to suit.
I have accounts with RS components, Rapid and Chalon.
Those are the major players who I have used to purchase the items through plus a few from FleeBay (of course).
Where abouts are you located or would a PM be better to discuss the possibilities of a little meeting with a large note pad and something warming to drink?Life is best lived @ G0......
I'm based in South Devon, which from your profile is a bit far (unless you fancy a break by the sea!). However, not sure if your interests lie in that direction but I shall be at the Bristol model engineering exhibition next week for all three days and I would be very happy to meet there. Otherwise, happy to communicate by email or whatever - send a pm if that suits.
Well I have spent the last week reviewing many members builds on here and I have to say I have a lot more knowledge than when I started this build.
The cabinet builds of @EddyCurrent, @RouterCNC, @m_c and the various comments made by @JazzCNC along with the main person responding to my thread @Neale.
I am away for a few weeks R&R so plan to create my schematics during this time.
Viso will be my software of choice so once I have something that people and comment/advise me on then it will be posted.
Once again reading others post has given me great information and thank you for sharing your builds.
IanLife is best lived @ G0......
By grain_r in forum DIY Router Build LogsReplies: 84Last Post: 12-09-2016, 09:15 PM
BUILD LOG: New Build - For Your Amusement - MK-2 buildBy Karl in forum DIY Router Build LogsReplies: 11Last Post: 11-06-2012, 07:34 PM