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  1. #1
    Ok, so I'm average on Vectric Aspire and SheetCam but want to learn basics in F360 - i like the assembly stuff and 360 aspect of design that the other apps lack.

    Have watch a few videos but find the best way to learn is to pick something representative of a project either past or future and try designing it.

    Here we go, not to any scale and only the first steps of the part.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I drew the stock, added two circles and then the slot on one.

    Doing the cam and a simulation it wants to cut round the whole part - presumably because it is following the path through the slot.

    Say i wanted to mill the holes out then do the outside then add the slot, what process should i be following?

    Would the slot be a separate setup or separate file/code etc?

    Apologies for basic questions but searching for this would probably take a long time ;)

  2. #2
    Several hours of the 'tube later ;) i have found an answer - draw another circle on the top plane and machine that instead of the actual hole - simples.

  3. #3
    Ok, so its been a quiet day in the day-job today but couldn't sneak home to work on the project as it was my watch as they say

    Been playing with Fusion360 Sort of come up with a plan for the top plate of my dual-spindle adaptor for the mill. My thoughts are in the machining process...

    Spot the three holes in the middle,
    Drill them through,
    Counter-bore them,
    Rough pocket out the two big holes,
    Finish pass on them,

    Questions so far,

    should i rough the holes then finish with a mill tool or should I go for the boring head and bore-gauges/caliper ??
    I was thinking to then flip over in the vise, mill the slot on the rear face, then flip back, bolt to table on scrap pads through the big holes and do the outer contour followed by the two small slots and a chamfer pass?
    How to chamfer the rear face once contoured?

    So far its been a blast, love the 360deg view

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4
    Sorry I can`t be of more help mate, I`m still just getting to grips with F360 as well ! You seem to be making good progress though for the short time you`ve been using it

  5. #5
    Depends if you are making out of an oversized block or plate that is already at the correct thickness.

    If using plate I would use a another piece of plate underneath as a fixture, clamp at both ends then....

    Mill slot and drill holes(making sure to drill into plate below,
    Interpolate two large bores with a slot drill and chamfer
    Use a T shaped clamp in both bores to hold while milling the profile.

    Then put a couple of pins or drills in the holes and use them to align the part when you flip it over.
    Clamp with T clamps again.

    Counterbore and mill the two slots that break into bores.

  6. #6
    Thanks, not thought about a fixture below with the alignment holes :)

    I was going to use precision tooling plate, used it before and accuracy has been good on thickness.

    What about bore finish - mill outright or mill rough and boring head? Its a consideration because of the massively different clamping methods needed for a using a boring head.

    I don't think ultimate precision is needed, i was allowing +0.25mm clearance on bores, maybe more?
    Last edited by Davek0974; 13-08-2016 at 07:21 AM.

  7. #7
    I have been using the tooling plate a lot recently too and have also found the thickness and flatness really good.
    I just use another piece of tooling plate as the fixture.
    Using a milling cutter would be fine to finish the bore. If you were making a batch I would say use separate tools for roughing and finishing though.

  8. #8
    Thanks, when i get the mill up and running this will be one of the first projects - a real "pucker-up, suck it and see" moment i think. ;)

    Will use a mill tool, probably change though as the pocket will be ripped with a two-flute and finish passes are better with three or four flute tools.

  9. #9
    Top and bottom plates drawn, just the spacer block left.

    The smaller hole in the bottom will take a 20mm spigot that will lock into an R8 collet in the spindle.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Metal arrived today and the mill is almost ready to go.

  10. #10
    Ok, first job :)

    Something i used to make manually in small batches, would use a 5C collet block horizontally in vise, cut one side, rotate 90deg cut next and so-on. The diameter of the tool created a radius at the root of the square part.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Gonna have a go with CAM, modified the vise jaws so i can clamp a blank vertically and work round tip using a ball-nosed cutter.

    Blanks are 1/2"dia and tip is 5.5mm sq. It also 605m36 steel so slightly harder than plain mild.

    I have it drawn up in F360 and worked out the feeds/speeds in HSMAdvisor which gave me 420rpm, 84mm/min on a 12mm HSS tool. DOC is 11mm - 6mm radius and 5mm straight.

    F360 wants to take the whole cut in one pass - would you feel happy with that, seems heavy. Although i selected 2d Adaptive, i think its too simple to work any magic on and it seems to have created a standard path.
    Last edited by Davek0974; 24-08-2016 at 06:52 PM.

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