1. Hello,

    I have already introduced myself and my project in "new member" forum so i'll cut to the chase. This is my first ever diy machine which is finished now. Again, thank you JAZZCNC for all the help you offered. I have no idea how i would connect all the electronic otherwise! I am very satisfied with the result but there are still some problems to solve before i could say it's perfect build (for me at least). I made a short video to capture the whole procedure of making the machine. Here it is:



    The parts i used are:

    4x 400W AC servos
    Cs-lab motion controller
    2.2kw W/C spindle (the spindle is unscrewing all the time. Had to disassembled it several times. Next time I will glue the upper screw!)
    Optidrive E2 VFD (blew up Huanyang vfd - thank god, my ears are grateful now)
    Steel frame (60x60x5)
    6082T6 aluminium plates
    All rails and ballscrews are from TBI Motion
    x axis: 20mm rails, 2005 ballscrews, double ball nut
    y axis: 15mm rails, 1605 ballscrew, double ball nut
    z axis: 20mm rails, 1605 ballscrew, single ball nut
    rapid moves: 7500mm/min with 1:2 ratio belt
    Cheapest angular ball bearings for ballscrew supports. (maybe here lies the problem which i'll describe later)

    I imagine the machine won't be done 100% anytime soon since there are always some upgrades. Here is the latest pic:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20160802_101629.jpg 
Views:	256 
Size:	378.9 KB 
ID:	19072

    And the test cut i made for measurements. Not sure if I am lucky or :

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	received_1543676752315652.jpg 
Views:	258 
Size:	462.8 KB 
ID:	19073

    That is X axis, Y axis was not that accurate, need to calibrate it a bit.

    So that's about it. Hope i could get some help to resolve the issues i still have.

    Thanks for watching.

    Matt.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to Husky1 For This Useful Post:


  3. #2
    Hi Husky,

    Fantastic build thanks for sharing. Machine looks really capable. Big Metallica fan so enjoyed the sound track too!

    Would like to see a video of it cutting when you are ready.

    What is the idea behind the 2 base frames. Is that so you can also mount it on a bench or is it just for leveling?

    If the angular contact bearings are like mine (and many other forum members) they have axial freeplay which needs to be shimmed out.

    You might want to copy this post into the 'finished machines' hall of fame :
    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10066...s-picture-menu

    Well done.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  4. #3
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Days Ago Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 376. Received thanks 41 times, giving thanks to others 15 times.
    Really nice build, Husky. +1 on seeing it cut..!

    Wal.

  5. Can someone help me out. I have a working machine for some time now, very happy with my first diy project. Till recently i thought i hit the limit with feeds and speeds but when i saw how much material can cut similar or even less robust machines i am getting frustrated that i cant cut much more (Chris's machine cuts very nicely https://youtu.be/6lyh3ctUCgk ). That would mean 3h job instead of 5-6h. So for example, my parameters for 10mm carbide cutter is 12mm doc, 0.5mm stepover and 4000mm/min at ~10k rpm. I mill aluminium 6082-T6. I have tried tons of combinations (ripper too), but this is the fastest i could cut without any issues. I cut dry with help of air and also with wd40. wd40 gives better results ofc. Whenever i go more stepover (with lover doc ofcourse) i break tool or it will about to. Countless broken tools. All 3 axis have 0.01mm or less free play, machine feels solid. Is there anything i can do or is this all i can get out of it? Could be the servo motors (400W KRS servos) not tuned properly? Or the machine is just not solid enough which i doubt. I plan to fill steel frame and bed with epoxy granite too. Is maybe problem in the spindle in a way. It has a little runout, about 0,01 or 0.02...

    Z axis doesn't have any counterbalance so the servo is holding the z weight. When cutting 3d contour and z axis is moving down, it is not smooth moving but i get steps on the part i mill. I fixed that with PID tuning. I didn't try that on x and y axis yet but i will asap.

    Any suggestions?

    @routercnc

    Thanks. The base frame is just to have machine higher.

    @Wal

    Thanks, and as soon as i make some upgrades :)

    What i cut:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	33526802505_1bb993e237_z.jpg 
Views:	104 
Size:	152.0 KB 
ID:	23746

  6. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Husky1 View Post
    So for example, my parameters for 10mm carbide cutter is 12mm doc, 0.5mm stepover and 4000mm/min at ~10k rpm. I mill aluminium 6082-T6. I have tried tons of combinations (ripper too), but this is the fastest i could cut without any issues. I cut dry with help of air and also with wd40. wd40 gives better results ofc. Whenever i go more stepover (with lover doc ofcourse) i break tool or it will about to.
    Hi Matt,

    Looking good now mate.

    Are these adaptive toolpaths your using.? What Cam package.?
    How many flutes.?
    How long Flute lengths.?

    Also does the machine actually sound like that or is the video making it sound worse than it is.? Don't remember it sounding like that when we skyped.!

  7. #6
    Doddy's Avatar
    Lives in Preston, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 2 Hours Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 273. Received thanks 28 times, giving thanks to others 9 times.
    Handsome looking machine - and I'm interested in the design of the stand, particularly that you have horizontal members running on the floor surface. It's an area I've been pondering recently with ideas for my own router - the idea of having a ground-based solid beam on a solid floor must (says he, the non mechanically minded) provide more resistance to (making up words now) bending from forces transferred down from the bed? What I'm thinking, having played with the deflection calculators for box sections that you can find online is to mitigate the deflection on the main load carriers (the rails) into the vertical/diagonal braces then against the lower horizontal... but if that is unsupported then there will be some translation of this deflection into this lower beam. If the lower beam was on the deck (ergo with some support) is there any reduction in the deflection on the upper beam/rails? Or is this fanciful 2/3rds of cock-all?

    Genuine, if somewhat rambling question before I order a couple of hundred quids worth of 50x50x5 box steel.
    Last edited by Doddy; 13-02-2018 at 05:20 PM.

  8. Sorry for late reply, been busy.

    I am using adaptive toolpaths with Autodesk Inventor HSM. I have used 2 flute, 3 flute, rippers. The only tool i didn't use was 1 flute. I have tested with tools diameter 10mm, 8mm, 6mm and had similar problems. Because of the nature of the workpiece i was mostly using long flute lengths (10mm x 45mm, 6mm x 35mm, 6mm x 20mm). I have tested with short flutes too ofc (10x26,8x20,6x16) and it's the same issue. The machine sound is so loud because the room is very small and echo is really loud on the camera. It's not that bad IRL but its not quite ether . Here is the last batch of broken tools

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20180215_103158.jpg 
Views:	71 
Size:	251.9 KB 
ID:	23801

    Doddy, i am not sure if i follow your questions but the frame idea was stolen from Jonathan's machine so i didn't do any calculations to be fair.
    Last edited by Husky1; 22-02-2018 at 09:32 PM.

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Husky1 View Post
    Doddy, i am not sure if i follow your questions but the frame idea was stolen from Jonathan's machine so i didn't do any calculations to be fair.
    That explains why it looked quite familiar, Cunningly disguised by a different colour paint!:-)

  10. So i am about to upgrade the machine with the combination of epoxy granite and concrete in a hope to eliminate vibrations and damping and hopefully have even better cutting performance. I got high quality epoxy granite Rampf Epument 140/8b, but i have only 100kg of it so to gain more weight of the frame, i will use concrete too. I would like to hear opinions if this would work. On the picture attached you can see how i will do this. Blue color shows where i wont use EG(have only 100kg), dark shows tubes filled with EG and gray is concrete (beton). I will also fill the gaps on gantry with EG and put the EG under the table. Will this work?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	111.PNG 
Views:	72 
Size:	841.4 KB 
ID:	24171Click image for larger version. 

Name:	222.PNG 
Views:	66 
Size:	927.9 KB 
ID:	24170

  11. #10
    Hi Matt

    Your machine looks pretty stiff so for cutting aluminium faster I would have a go with mist coolant. Lots of posts on here about how to do it so you don't fog up the workshop. Do you have a compressor ?

    Also it might not effect things greatly but the concrete will shrink a bit when dry so might pull away from the walls. I'd try the mist coolant first though.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

Similar Threads

  1. BUILD LOG: Finished builds picture menu
    By routercnc in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 3 Weeks Ago, 09:21 PM
  2. Drill / Tap Guide Jig - Finished!
    By Wal in forum Metalwork Project Showcase
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 04-12-2014, 08:59 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •