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  1. #141
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    Again back to what Dean said, about the pulse. looking at the table below it seemed i should not have had a problem as both in the controller and drives was set to high / step pulse/ . Changed the controller pulse to low and now its working fine. Thanks Dean!
    Your Welcome and it catches lots of people out. Seen people replace drives and motors because of it.
    The problem I've encountered often is that while the Manual says one thing the switches on the drives are set opposite and this is probably the case here.?


    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    Though i still not get why on controller Z is set differently than X and Y as default? No i have to think of a way to check the correctness of Z . Problem seems to be as till now i had done files where Z has no more than 5 steps, so may be thats why i had not seen the problem. I dont know if it counts that the CAM makes the Z oscillate on the toolpath, i think that counts a a change, so it seems better not touch anything for now.
    Not quite understanding what your saying here Boyan.? If your menaing to check pulse edge (polarity) then it's easy.
    Make up G-code file of short back n forth moves ending with move back to Zero. Mark the start position and when done should be back at same place.

  2. #142
    Neale's Avatar
    Lives in Plymouth, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 8 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,729. Received thanks 295 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    Boyan - I can't quite read the small writing on the "command pulse" timing diagram but I think that it might say that you need a minimum of 3msec between direction change and step pulse. However, in the controller settings, this seems to be set to a lower value (300nsec, 0.3msec). As I say, I might have misread the diagram but it might be worth a quick check to make sure that the timings are OK. Apologies if I am wrong and you have already checked this.
    Last edited by Neale; 16-11-2016 at 06:53 PM.

  3. #143
    Neale, i think you are right to note that.

    I think they are talking microsecond in manual, not miliseconds, its marked "m" like handwriting. As it makes more sense to me looking at the numbers.



    If i am right about that, then:


    it says T3 , T7 <0.1ms which in controller is set by default Itime between DIR & pulse 300 ns where 300 ns=0.3ms, so this one seems ok

    T4, T5, T6>3ms
    which in controller is width of pulsesignal(include time of #416)2000 ns where 2000ns=2ms , seems i have to raise that a bit , though somewhere the manual of the controller says: if you dont know better leave default




    Dean, did you check the Rattm controller if software and firmware is the same? If you have time and spare motors / i am sure you have/ could you try what does that mean for the A axis , choose A or B. maybe even if it says degrees it is mm, who knows.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  4. #144
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    Dean, did you check the Rattm controller if software and firmware is the same? If you have time and spare motors / i am sure you have/ could you try what does that mean for the A axis , choose A or B. maybe even if it says degrees it is mm, who knows.
    Not exactly sure where to find firmware version. I can see on main screen it says whats below which presume is software version. Can't see any ref to Firmware only this.
    Normal Mod
    Ver:2016-06-29-81NOR

    Not had much time to play with this but I will try to throw some motors on it and try.

  5. #145
    Ok Boyan thrown some motors on controller and CANNOT make it Slave the motors together. changed all settings and still no Joy.
    The A/B selection makes no difference. Setting A pulse to from Pulse/Deg to Pulse/Circ just makes the A motor ONLY spin continuesly with no control over it. Pulse Degree does exactly that moves in Degree increments per pulse.

    I'm also not impressed with the Crap Terminal connectors on back what load of rubbish. Tiny holes and half of them won't clamp properly. I see loads of potential for trouble with lose or fallen out wires with these things.!!

  6. #146
    Quote Originally Posted by Merlin201314 View Post
    In the controller, in the last part of the machine parameter you can fond the "interpolation period", set it up at 0,005 and try it, change even the "screen refresh" at not less than 4000, otherwise the screen will slow the cpu, as it not equipped with a graphic card.(you don't need to watch the screen, watch the machine).

    Find even the "operating acceleration" parameter and set it up at 500mm is the diagonal interpolated acceleration try it and find a reasonable one for your machine.
    Is just a bit of thing to try, maybe it won't help you, but it worth try.....

    If you have servos, they are coming with resolver on the back, so your motors know exactly where and when they are at all time.
    So, even with strong acceleration they shouldn't loose position... Here the problem: is your Router ridgid enough? Because with long traveling and strong accelerations the structure has the time to stabilize in between the movment, with very short traveling the machine is going into a factor called "structural resonance" and "inverted motion", what that mean? It mean that the axis is called to travel in a direction, but due to acceleration and mass involved the underneath structure is going in the opposite direction, and in a very small piece this factor is noticeable, even more when you are carving aluminium rather than wood, thats why the milling machines are heavy, especially CNC centers. Another thing to check is the connections between the motors and the ballscrews.... check all the mechanic parts first, as per very small pieces and high acceleration you are going to join another world with a high inversion rate, is called "jerk"
    A router is a router, and as much as you like it, is shaking and flexible under high torque.....
    I would suggest you to lower the acceleration to 300/500mm Min and look if the problem is persistent before retuning all the motors and blame them or the controller.

    Regards
    Merlin, any updates on the firmware?
    .Me

  7. #147
    Yes, Benedict is working on a new compiler, but he updated a new mod, go on the website and download it, even the new splash screen is included, is a hard job, but we will do it, in the meantime I am re designing the front of the panel, in a few days I'll post the new job, as I am going to build the Cnc controller panel with the hand wheel embedded and all the buttons..... Hopefully!!

    Sent by my tapatalk

  8. #148
    Quote Originally Posted by Merlin201314 View Post
    Yes, Benedict is working on a new compiler, but he updated a new mod, go on the website and download it, even the new splash screen is included, is a hard job, but we will do it, in the meantime I am re designing the front of the panel, in a few days I'll post the new job, as I am going to build the Cnc controller panel with the hand wheel embedded and all the buttons..... Hopefully!!

    Sent by my tapatalk
    Sweet sounds really good for the DDSC, I look forward to seeing the panel, can never have enough build log pictures so keep them coming !!!

    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 19-11-2016 at 07:50 PM.
    .Me

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  10. #149
    For the ones without the link http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,11598.200.html

    You are doing great job there guys!

    So we better start thinking then what exactly and how to be made better there in the new software.

    About the panel and the rubber pad insert for the keys.
    We/me and Jeff/ just bought ourselves a new 3d printer / PrusaMk2/ so soon i will be able to print the rubber and the plastic if needed. So feel free to design something better Open Source :-). I will print it , no problem. Though if what you are doing guys works, this will well deserve an Aluminum panel




    Now just to heat your heads a bit more:

    By the way there is an manufacturer of very similar/ if not even better board by the looks of it / that only difference is it can not read continuously from USB disc and has line limit. But if needed i can contact them and ask for software. I did not bother before with them as this one seemed more refined.


    More info, quotes from emails:


    TC55A is conversational programming and TC55B is G code programming.

    We do not have English documents about it, but the system supports English operation.

    TC55A is basically big version of TC55V and TC55B is big version of TC55H.



    me:

    Now there is some very important thing. In manual it says:
    Electronic Gearing: Numerator : 1-99999,
    Denominator : 1-99999
    USB: For Importing NC Programs and Boot Page Pictures
    Optically Isolated I/O ports
    Maximum number of Program Lines: 799
    Maximum number of Programs: 99 RAM: 128M

    So the question is:
    -If i load 100 000 line G code on USB, will it work, reading from USB and executing G code whole program?

    What does it mean Maximum number of Program Lines: 799 ????

    them:
    Sorry, 100 000 will not work.


    The manual is old, TC55H can support 999 at max, and TC55B can do 9999

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2016 TC55H Manual.pdf 
Views:	3659 
Size:	799.1 KB 
ID:	19672Click image for larger version. 

Name:	TC55B运动控制系统说明书 (1).pdf 
Views:	333 
Size:	1.58 MB 
ID:	19671
    Last edited by Boyan Silyavski; 19-11-2016 at 08:02 PM.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

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  12. #150
    Everything will be open source Boyan, that's why we are here..
    i will share DXF and 3D models of course, we are thinking to have the complete panel re designed, let's see what i can do.....

    So you guys bought a 3d printer.... well let me tell you, you will need a long time before you print rubber after plastic if is the first printer you have, is not an easy job, it looks like a joke, but when you start printing seriously( i mean accurate models) here is when your stress start :-)), happy head aches to you
    Anyway, if you need help for the printer just ask, i'm happy to help, i'm in the 3d printer world for years, they have no secrets for me.
    If you are courious have a look at http://www.thingiverse.com
    lots of models and things to learn.
    Regards

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