1. #1
    I've just a new KX1 from arc euro trade. Setup was fine until i went to install a tool. The drawbar appears too long by about 5mm.

    There is always a loose gap between the collet and spindle arbor. If i press the collet up to fit properly then the drawbar is pressed up too far for the screw on cover on top.

    Im using this guide to confirm how I'm installing it: https://sites.google.com/site/iannew...ine/sieg-kx1-a

    Am i doing something stupid ?? (entirely likely) Can i just cut the draw down by, say, 7mm to get a decent fit?

    Ive tried on several collets (from the same set) and a collet chuck. (all MT2, M10)

    It was all going so well, installing mach3 via usb on a virtual machine.... that side all works perfectly (for now)

    cheers
    Joe

  2. #2
    Have you called Arc Euro Trade and asked them?
    I've found them very helpful and the supplier should always be your first point of contact for any issue with something new, if it's just you being daft a good company will always be happy to help a paying customer,
    Regards,
    Nick
    Life is a learning and growing experience.

  3. #3
    I did, arc couldnt figure it out either and said i could either send the draw bar in, or go ahead and chop 7mm off. so i did the surgery and it works just fine..
    Last edited by mbcx4jrh; 16-09-2016 at 05:40 PM.

  4. #4
    what is the normal length of the thread inside an MT2 M10 collet ... anyone know?

  5. #5
    From memory there was about 1/2" to 5/8" of thread in my MT2 collets, I know I ran a die through several to increase thread depth.
    Life is a learning and growing experience.

  6. #6
    yeah, thats about what i've got.
    Arc were really good btw. Just in case anyone reads this the wrong way.

    It was tested at arc first, so even stranger. i have a working theory tonight that my previous (clark mill like object) had somehow jammed or damaged the threads at the end of its drawbar... maybe thats why different collets exhibited the same issue. I'll look into this tomorrow.

    joe

  7. #7
    ARC is my local supplier, being 20 mins down the road from me. They are always helpful, even if you are not a big spending customer.

    That drawbar looks like the one from the Sieg SX1 or Clarke CMD10 or any of the same generic Chinese small mills, except that it has a fancy extractor. on my CMD10 I use a soft faced hammer to whack the drawbar to break the taper lock on the collet. Perhaps if you have the Clarke Mille Thinge you could try the drawbar against the modified one and see how the lengths compare. If they are the same after you cut the new one, then probably you had an 'out of tolerance' issue in the first place.

    BTW has anybody had any success adjusting the gibs on a CMD10 to get rid of yaw on the table, whilst still permitting the X and Y movement ? My PoC (Piece of Crap) has so badly ground slideways that adjustment across any significant working movement range is impossible.

    Cheers,

    Rob
    Last edited by cropwell; 17-09-2016 at 04:26 PM.
    Albert Einstein may have been a genius, but his brother Frank, was a monster

    Sent from my clunky old Windows 7 Machine

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by mbcx4jrh View Post
    what is the normal length of the thread inside an MT2 M10 collet ... anyone know?
    I have just measured an MT2 10mm collet and it is 25mm.
    Albert Einstein may have been a genius, but his brother Frank, was a monster

    Sent from my clunky old Windows 7 Machine

  9. #9
    [QUOTE=cropwell;83527That drawbar looks like the one from the Sieg SX1 or Clarke CMD10 or any of the same generic Chinese small mills, except that it has a fancy extractor. [/QUOTE]

    Looking at the relative lengths of the collets, it looks as though the KX1 is a longer drawbar and I am, yet again, talking bollocks
    Last edited by cropwell; 17-09-2016 at 04:43 PM.
    Albert Einstein may have been a genius, but his brother Frank, was a monster

    Sent from my clunky old Windows 7 Machine

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