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  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by magicniner View Post
    It would be nice if the hot end could deal with printable wax, speaking as a man with a furnace or two ;-)
    Of course, speaking as a man also with a furnace or two :-)

    But isn't that possible with the e3d hotend? I thought of using wax PLA filament with my neew printer, so when heated in furnace is similar to wax and dissapears. Or yo mean extruder head where wax is melted and injected into nozzle? I think that bearing will support similar setup plus there is almost none overhang if you look at pictures from side
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    By the way i would like to remind you that this will be open source so if sb needs some CAD, meanwhile i am finishing the drawing just drop me a line[/B]. I draw in Nx and can send you solids.
    Can you send me this as a .stl file
    I don't need cable chain, I am just curious if my prints come out the same as yours.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt View Post
    Can you send me this as a .stl file
    I don't need cable chain, I am just curious if my prints come out the same as yours.

    Here are how parts come from the printer i use now, meanwhile waiting for the Prusa MK2. I use PlA 3d850, setting same as normal PLA but 230C instead of 200C, 50% infill, 0.4mm nozzle, 40mm/sec as the printer is very wobbly. Outside rectilinear. Parts are very strong.

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    Here are the files that are most possibly final for now. Note that the link still needs work, for now i heat with hot water when mounting together, then use pliers to straighten and when cold works perfectly.


    motor mount.stl link.stl belt clamp plate.stl puley mount.stl
    Last edited by Boyan Silyavski; 07-12-2016 at 09:05 PM.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  4. #24
    I am halfway through a print, I will do a couple of links when it finishes

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt View Post
    I am halfway through a print, I will do a couple of links when it finishes
    Check that one too. I just finished adjusting the link pins, as they were too long i think and as i said assembly had to be done under hot water. And i broke some mean while . Due to the newly introduced slot which was supposed to help mounting it together.


    I am just going to print that new variant and check if i resolved the issue.Cable Chain X.stl otherwise it moves very nice and has bend radius of mere 55mm, chain is 25mm wide x 20 high outside
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    Of course, speaking as a man also with a furnace or two :-)

    But isn't that possible with the e3d hotend? I thought of using wax PLA filament
    I was thinking of this -

    http://www.machinablewax.com/product.php?product=52

    - Nick
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

  7. #27
    Too late for updates, 40 minutes to go

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  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by magicniner View Post
    Exactly. On my to buy list. Anything similar in EU? Or a supplier here?

    Quote Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt View Post
    Too late for updates, 40 minutes to go

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    NIce. The update did not work well. To loose. Its a challenging little thing this link, either is too strong , either too weak. It breaks easily or is next to impossible to assemble. I manage heating it but sb else could find that impossible. So still not 100% right . Though works quite fine once assembled and if printed from nylon or a just a bit flexible plastic that will not be a problem.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  9. #29
    At the end after a couple of experiments managed to finish 100% the design of the chain. So now clicks easily, moves right, prints right and most of all attaches link by link flawlessly without any breakage. Anyways i used again hot water to click them, this time all went very nice.

    Meanwhile managed to find realistic drawing of the 8x8x2 / 4 start screw in step, which was not perfect and after a lot of fiddling have the nuts 8mm 4 start and 2 start x 2mm pitch in 100 realistic drawing read to print. Very important aspect of all this project is that parts are 100% realistic represented.

    Took me a whole day but managed to send a file from Openscad to FreeCAD and from there to ifus, import the Igus in NX11, sew the surfaces while importing and finish with an usable for customization solid model part.Phew... Nuts printed well as seen on picture. Also the chain.

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    Finished drawing the Z motors and the mounts. Mounts are designed so that will space precisely the motors in all directions


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    Table design include 2x motors and belts..etc. This is due to the whole idea behind that model to be able to scale bigger easily. Without any actual change of design. Apart from lengths of elements. So to be truly parametric design. Plus motors are cheap, Z plate will be cast and trully from what i see / the printer i am testing/ this is where all designs i have seen suffer. I dont see what is the big deal to include second motor and for mere 20-30 euro more to have no problem with acceleration of the plate. There are cheap signal multiplexers? that make one signal for 2 motors / if board will not support it/, etc.

    Anyway most possibly my printer will be at least with closed loop if not with servos. maybe i will build one to see how it goes with cheap motors first.

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    Now the big question for me is the table plate.

    i know i will be cast aluminum >6mm. I made it bigger so it accepts 2 cheap 200x200 heated beds. I will see if i can make it as i said using heated cable or resistors or sth similar. I will isolate it from bellow using special paper and then sheet.

    But what small plates i use to connect the heated 100C plate to the bearing blocks???? Rigid connection, no fiddling with adjustable screws and springs? Something that will stand to 130 degree, that will not change dimension, so i make a precise connection. And most importantly willnot transmit heat to the bearing blocks.

    Not that the bearing blocks can not be ordered for a couple of dollars to be heat resistant / bronze instead of plastic/ but i would like to be usable with normal bearing blocks, not special. Any ideas of materials? have to be easily obtainable and DIY at least by me.


    The whole model starts to look deceptively simple but it was a lot of thought and different approaches tried, drawn and then discarded.
    Last edited by Boyan Silyavski; 11-12-2016 at 01:56 AM.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  10. #30
    Now some electricity quiz. I need some advice from sb not electrically challenged like me. As you know I am wondering how to make the printer bed plate as simplest as possible, rigid and cheap.

    After examining many options i came to the conclusion that could be achieved using 6-8mm aluminum plate, routed from bottom with cable channels and insulated heating cable inserted.

    230V, plate connected to Earth, thermal fuse for overheating, current fuse for over current, thermistor integrated, that for safety. Plus SSr and probably Pid controller or just using the boards PID and separate board for the thermocouple signal if i go this way.



    So according to my research ~500W will be right for the power. I used this simple Ohm’s Law calculator

    I looked around and found the so called Minco Heat 12K Carbon Fiber Heating Cable 33 Ohm/m DIY Underfloor Heating Wires at ebay and ali express.
    It sells around 15euro per 20 meters incl shipping which translates into less than 1 euro per meter

    http://www.ebay.es/itm/10m-Infrared-...qQq-NrOxSvmuIw

    here is the description:

    Product Name: Carbon fiber heating wire
    Insulating materials: Silicone rubber
    Temperature: 200 degrees celsius limit
    Heating conductor: 12K
    High voltage test: 3000V
    Leakage current: 0.05mA/m
    The product can withstand the power of power: 25W/M
    Diameter: 30.2 MM
    Optional colors: Red
    Infrared wavelength: 8UM-18UM
    Conductor resistance: 33 Ω / M
    Length: (custom, not less than 10 meters)

    PS: Rated voltage is ~300V


    Now from the calculator it seems at 230Vac to achieve ~500w i need a wire with resistance around 100 Ohms more or less :

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    Please correct me bellow if i am wrong before i burn sth:

    1.Now as i understand it the wire resists temperature 200C. Obviously if use 3 meters of wire at 33 ohm per meter i will achieve the desired result.

    2.They say :"The product can withstand the power of power: 25W/M" but thats for floor heating, so i assume if wire is connected to a temperature regulating device which does not permit it to go above 130C /+ the thermal and current fuses/ there will be no any problem????

    3. I understand that also i have to push fit the wire in the channel/ 3mm/ so there is not any air gap between plate and wire which could cause overheating due to incorrect temp measurement.

    I plan of: 6/8/mm plate=+ channel+tight fit wire+thermo conductive silicone flush with bottom surface. So no air there art all

    Apart from that i will use some insulator sheet from bellow, still not clear but most possibly Teflon, Silicone, Mica ???



    What do you think?

    I know i can buy 40 euro 500 W ready heater from China for 40-50 euro, stick it to the aluminum bed from below and thats it. But that is expensive compared to what i propose, Chinese will not care to make trace separation properly and so on. I mean its expensive and i dont find it more reliable than sth i could make. Plus machining all will cost only around 10 euros with the plate, which is 1.3 kg

    Calculation shows that 3000mm cable/400mm bed =7.5 which is roughly 7 channels on the long side. So ~200mm/7=~28mm separation between channels which seems quite right to me.
    Last edited by Boyan Silyavski; 18-12-2016 at 12:51 AM. Reason: rated voltage
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

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