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  1. #1
    Hi there

    Just assembling the components for my new build CNC conversion of the Warco WM16 milling machine.

    I Converted a little Proxxon Micro Mill to CNC for fun a few years back and sold it on when I'd finished, I used all the cheapest Chinese bits I could get and was quite happy with the result...

    This time I'm aiming for something a bit different.

    WM16

    There are plenty of resources detailing conversions of this machine and variants on the internet and it seemed a logical choice both in terms of size and price so I went ahead and bought it. The same machine (or VERY similar) is also sold as the Grizzly G0704, Optimum BF20l and Amadeal AMAT25LV I believe...

    I have purchased 2HSS86H closed loop hybrid drives with 2 x 8.5Nm motors for X and Y axis and a 12Nm motor for the Z as well as some cheap chinese pre-machined ballscrews and nuts from ebay which I can play with without too much worry...

    (I should say that I've been advised, correctly I believe, that these motors and drivers are oversize for this application but i'm going ahead with this approach because I got the motors and drivers at a giveaway price from a mate's incomplete router project! BE WARNED!)

    Probably going for UC300eth for motion control with one HDBB2 breakout board with UCC software...

    Got a couple of ideas for the motor and bearing mounts but will have to take a good look at the mill before I start...

    First off is a stripdown, clean and assessment... I'll post again afterwards with some more info.
    Last edited by noyloj; 03-01-2017 at 09:50 PM.

  2. #2
    Those motors are far, far to big and will only slow the machine down believe it or not.
    4.5 Nm for X and Y and the same for Z but with 2:1 belt reduction.
    John S -

  3. #3
    I'm not looking for speed

  4. #4
    I'm hoping to keep the motors and drivers for my next project... But at the risk of sounding dumb, why should the larger motors affect top speed? Surely not through inertia?
    Last edited by noyloj; 02-01-2017 at 09:28 PM.

  5. #5
    I suppose that the higher power means that current switching will be slower... but not to any degree that will matter considering the maximum velocity these motors are rated at and the application that they are being used in?

  6. #6
    If I run them at plenty high voltage this should offset switching rates through the windings...

  7. #7
    Stick the screw in the lathe chuck (with something protecting the screw) and use a drill chuck in your tailstock with the chuck jaws wound right in to keep it square, wind the chick.in as you spin the die (not the chuck)....that's how I do it....😁

    Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk
    Neil...

    Build log...here

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by njhussey View Post
    Stick the screw in the lathe chuck (with something protecting the screw) and use a drill chuck in your tailstock with the chuck jaws wound right in to keep it square, wind the chick.in as you spin the die (not the chuck)....that's how I do it....��

    Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk
    Hi Neil

    This is something like what I wanted to do but the 2MT taper on the rotary table is too small to take the 16mm ballscrew...

    What do you mean with about using the drill chuck to keep it square btw?

    Ah... I gotcha!

    Thanks Jo
    Last edited by noyloj; 13-01-2017 at 05:57 PM.

  9. #9
    Just read your post again Jo and see your dilemma, clamp 2 bits of 3"x2" wood together and drill a 14mm hole or largest drill bit you have nearest that size if not got that size, equi spaced through the join. Do this twice and use them as clamps for your ballscrew. Then screw them down to a flat work bench/door (but maybe not kitchen worktop.....unless you're single 😉) with a suitable spacer underneath them so you can turn your die without hitting the surface. Screw down a batton parallel to your ballscrew 25mm offset from it and then make yourself a 345 triangle that you can use to slide against the batton thus keeping the die square to the ballscrew....

    Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by njhussey; 13-01-2017 at 06:21 PM.
    Neil...

    Build log...here

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  11. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by njhussey View Post
    Just read your post again Jo and see your dilemma, clamp 2 bits of 3"x2" wood together and drill a 14mm hole or largest drill bit you have nearest that size if not got that size, equi spaced through the join. Do this twice and use them as clamps for your ballscrew. Then screw them down to a flat work bench/door (but maybe not kitchen worktop.....unless you're single ��) with a suitable spacer underneath them so you can turn your die without hitting the surface. Screw down a batton parallel to your ballscrew 25mm offset from it and then make yourself a 345 triangle that you can use to slide against the batton thus keeping the die square to the ballscrew....

    Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk
    I like your thinking! A jig... Hmmmm

    Perhaps in steel?....
    Last edited by noyloj; 17-01-2017 at 10:29 PM.

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