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  1. #11
    And pictures, we like pictures 😁

    Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk


  2. #12
    Absolutely, I like pictures too! So as soon as I finish the guard I will post some pics of the project for other potential "converters" to see.

  3. #13
    Greetings from the far side of the pond. I encountered this thread via Google search, while looking for any kind of discussion related to the SX2.7. It seems to have not quite caught on as strongly as either the smaller mills, nor the larger X3. Thank you for posting your experiences with it here. I'll be following with interest.

    What kind of modifications did you have to make to your ballscrews and/or the mill itself to get it adapted? Or, did you miraculously find some stock part that fit like a glass slipper?

    Thanks again for sharing info!

  4. #14
    Hi there!

    Well the SX2.7 fits nicely in between the two. Far better than the SX2 in every sense, but not as good, in some respects, as the SX3. I could've easily bought the SX3, but I wanted something slightly smaller and with a better Y cross travel (180mm) The SX3 has less, at 145mm.

    As far as modifications, for the Z axis, the standard ballnut will fit exactly using the original housing, so no modifications needed. For the Y axis I made my own ballnut housing, from a block of aluminium, easy to do. Otherwise all is fine.

    The X axis is the one where you have to work a little. I had to mill one side of the ballnut flange, take a chunk off of about 6mm and then I had to grind the saddle at the very end to make room for part of the ballnut. I also had to grind a small groove across the saddle, not deep at all, just enough to gain clearance, as the ballscrew needs to be fitted slightly lower than the original leadscrew (because of the thickness of the ballnut). I didn't have to touch the table at all.

    The rest is the usual end plates for which I used 20mm aluminium.

    The only misgivings I had about it is the fact that you can't rotate the head, but as it turns out, after lots of measuring, (I did it following Hossmachine video on YouTube) it is running parallel anyway, thankfully.

    It is a lovely machine, I also have the SX2, which was my first machine, in my opinion, for a CNC conversion, no comparison, I mean the SX2.7 without a doubt:)

    It's not unusual to modify things a little. I did it all with a Dremel and a bit of patience, not too difficult really.


    Last edited by Edward; 08-02-2017 at 12:18 AM.

  5. #15
    Thanks for the additional info. I'm looking at the Hossmachine videos now. Did you have to resize the ballscrews? I have heard this is necessary in some cases, and is a trick since they are hardened. If you have reference parts numbers for the ones that worked for you, that would be a help. Thanks again!

  6. #16
    Hmmm. Apparently my prior reply was sent to oblivion.

    It went something like this:

    Thanks for passing on the additional info. I'm reading the Hossmachine guide now. Can you share any part numbers on the screws that worked for you? Did you just match the length and diameter of the existing, and they fit without complication? I've read stories of conversions that required specific modifications to the screws itself, and it appears to be pain working with the hardened material, as well as a risk of warping the screw in the process. Any specific links you can share to point me to parts that worked for you would be welcome.

    Below is a link to YouTube video by a gent in Australia. He made some slick kit for his x2.7 using his CNC router to cut fancy parts. Thanks again for your help.

  7. #17
    The ballnut type is the same as the Australian.

    Ballscrew, 16mm, bog standard chinese stuff.

    300mm long for the Y
    600mm long for the X
    500mm long for the Z

    But note that each length is a little longer than the above, for the bearings, thread, nut, etc.

    Best to get the mill and then measure up. Bear in mind that if you get it in the US, the mill table and other specs may differ a little. I only had to cut the very end of the floating Y ballscrew, about 9mm off the end. I used an angle grinder and it cut in about a minute. You can also use the Dremel with a little cutting disk, but it will take longer and the cut won't be as clean, so you just use a file to flatten the finish. The ballscrew won't bend unless you force it. I just clamped it gently with some protection and only the very end of the ballscrew was exposed. I bought a cheap angle grinder for this, scary to use the first time, but actually it was a lot easier than I thought. I looked like an astronaut with all the protection, but better safe than sorry:)


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  9. #18
    Again, that's very helpful & appreciated. The comments I read by people modifying their screws involved annealing the end they needed to modify -- not just cutting it short, but turning a precise shoulder on it after getting it to length. That heating process seemed to be where the warping risk was, and if this conversion required anything that sporting, I'd pass on the experience ;)

    And I'm with you -- better safe than sorry, even if the big boys make fun of me.

  10. #19
    Quick release drawbar for Tormach style tools.

    The drawbar is accessible and can easily be pulled out by swinging the levers, as shown in the video.


    Last edited by Edward; 13-03-2017 at 03:58 PM.

  11. #20
    Hi Edward,

    that is an amazingly clean conversion!
    Machine tools and 3D printing supplies. Expanding constantly.

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