. .
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234
  1. #31
    In my case, a Sieg2.7 probably about the same size as yours I think, I machined the top of the ballnut flange a little , about 2.5mm, so I could still use the two top side holes of the flange, and this allowed the ballnut to fit under the table, so the table didn't need any machining at all. Then I had to machine the end side of the saddle (that's where the ballnut housing goes in my machine, I think yours may be in a different place) I just ground a little crescent concavity for the bottom of the ballnut to sit on.

    After doing that, the ballscrew had a clearance of about 2mm from the saddle, but unfortunatelly at the other end of the saddle, the clearance gradually diminished as the casting was irregular, not level. So I just had to groove that end a little to allow the ballscrew to clear by about 1 mm.

    When fitting the end plates, I found that the existing threads at both ends of the table were not tapped perpendicular, they were clearly askew, you do find surprises here and there, but you somehow work around them:)

    Although I feel your excitement, I think there is no point in planning anything too seriously until you actually get the mill, then you will be confronted by the real problems.

    For cutting the top end of the ballnut flange I used a little dremel cutting disc, ( took 5 minutes) but I think if I had had a proper grinder, it would've been done in no time.

    I too worried about the metal stress, but hopefully I didn't grind too much metal to cause any trouble.

    Edward
    Last edited by Edward; 09-01-2017 at 11:50 PM.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to Edward For This Useful Post:


  3. #32
    Just went to the web page copied the address and pasted it,not put many attachments into posts but think it's in the tools menu .
    Mike

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to mekanik For This Useful Post:


  5. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Edward View Post

    Although I feel your excitement, I think there is no point in planning anything too seriously until you actually get the mill, then you will be confronted by the real problems.

    For cutting the top end of the ballnut flange I used a little dremel cutting disc, ( took 5 minutes) but I think if I had had a proper grinder, it would've been done in no time.

    I too worried about the metal stress, but hopefully I didn't grind too much metal to cause any trouble.

    Edward
    Yes Edward, you are of course correct! My excitement is clearly palpable!

    I am of course nervous that I can convert this machine, having little hands on experience except with a tiny Proxxon some years ago. I guess I'm trying to figure out potential hurdles before I meet them, a little, so that I am not too overwhelmed when the machine finally arrives.

    I shall duly 'wind it in a bit' until the kit starts arriving and try to be less... well... just less!

    That said, my motion controller setup should be arriving any day now so prepare for the worst!

    Thanks for the info... it's what I had thought for mine, more or less. The yanks all seem to entirely cut out a section of the saddle to take the ballnut... perhaps it's won't be necessary your way.

    Ta Jo :)

  6. #34
    I am not sure if you have bought your drivers yet, but I myself am using the Leadshine EM806 after reading these forums (Zapp has got a good stock at the moment) and they are very nice and quiet. I am saying this because I have got other similar drivers and there is a hell of a difference in smoothness and noise. These may cost a bit more, but you won't regret it.I am amazed how quiet my machine is, not as quiet as it would be with servos, but not far from it!

    Edward
    Last edited by Edward; 10-01-2017 at 12:32 AM.

  7. #35
    Hi Edward

    I bought motors and drives a while ago.. a friend in France had partially completed steel router project that he lost interest in. I have 2HSS86 hybrid drives with 12Nm and 8Nm motors.... I know it's overspec for the mill but I want to do my own router later with these drives and motors so I will play with them on this mill and probably swap out for smaller when I get some money together.... I'm pretty sure I can use 3.0Nm Nema24 HSE60 motors with these drivers which should be ideal for x and y and will probably stick with Nema34 but at 4.5Nm for the z. This means I can keep all the control electronics/PSUs the same for both machines and hopefully just plug and play them.

    Jo

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Waterproof CNC Router Cutting bed
    By mondrota in forum Machine Discussion
    Replies: 37
    Last Post: 03-06-2019, 10:12 AM
  2. CNC Router V1.0 (For Cutting Multiple Materials)
    By biketrialsdave in forum Gantry/Router Machines & Building
    Replies: 272
    Last Post: 05-08-2017, 03:37 PM
  3. Cutting metal shapes
    By jmac80 in forum Metalwork Discussion
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 27-11-2013, 10:32 PM
  4. aluminium profile for cutting bed of router
    By steeplejack in forum Marketplace Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 19-10-2013, 10:52 PM
  5. WANTED: CNC Mill/Router for Cutting Aluminium
    By kylelnsn in forum Items Wanted
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 09-08-2012, 09:54 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •