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  1. #311
    Zeeflyboy this Z axis is a masterpiece, what is the travel of it?

  2. #312
    Cheers :)

    It has a total travel of 178mm

    AVF - not yet, but I may make files available later.

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  4. #313
    Quote Originally Posted by Snapper View Post
    Its a very nice knurl you pulled off on the last one, how many goes did that take to get right?
    Just the one attempt actually! I did use a knurl calculator to arrive at a suitable diameter for the knob, so that probably helped a little. I'd actually like a coarser Knurl, need to buy some 1mm wheels for my knurling device.

  5. #314
    Sorted out the ball nut greasing arrangement... So obviously I didn't fancy stripping down the whole thing every time the ball screw needed a bit of grease. I came up with this solution:

    Made a small hex piece with an M6 thread on the lathe




    3D printed a plug with m20x1 thread (to match the hole in the face plate) in my new PA-CF nylon/carbon fibre material and added a 4mm hose barb.








    Added a hose barb and 90 degree connector to the ball nut (locked in with hydraulic sealant to the position required) and a silicone hose to connect the two pieces. This picture gives an idea of how the arrangement works:




    And done:



    Last edited by Zeeflyboy; 29-05-2018 at 04:09 PM.

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  7. #315
    Im envious!
    Looks real nice

    Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk

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  9. #316
    Had a productive day or two... apart from some minor things left to do, the Z-axis is now completed.

    First up I made the top counter bearing plate. I had planned this to be 10mm but I only had 12mm and rather than skim it down I decided to just roll with the 12mm instead so tweaked the design.






    Flipped and rear chamfer




    I also made another knurled knob on the lathe, this time for the tension adjust. Same process as last time so I won't show it again




    While cutting the tramming plate I had a bit of a booboo - I was trying out a full 16mm depth of cut with 0.8mm axial engagement, which was actually working ok until it turns out the stock wasn't perfectly squared up to the bed and on the far side it started taking much more than 0.8mm... caught it just as it came to a stop all gummed up. Need to give it a bath in some Lye to de-gunk it.



    Unfortunately this mishap resulted in some machining error which I didn't pick up on until afterwards as I thought I hit feed hold in time. Thankfully nothing too serious - the holes that mount the spindle are just about 0.3mm off from the rest in X - everything else is fine so I'm not going to re-do.

    So with that tramming plate done, the Z-axis is now more or less complete. I just need to shorten and tidy up the ball screw extension piece, make a small collar for the tensioner and then at some point I need to apply a finish. I'm currently leaning towards sandblasting and then anodising for a nice matt anodised finish.

    Anyway, here are some assembled shots... everything is nice and smooth to turn by hand with no binding. The tramming adjustment works especially nicely now that I extended the shoulder bolt around which it pivots and the shoulder bolt that goes through the eccentric nut into the plate behind.








    And here is one for reference to the current machine. This thing is huge! Gonna need a bigger boat...

    Last edited by Zeeflyboy; 30-05-2018 at 09:56 PM.

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  11. #317
    RobC's Avatar
    Lives in manchester, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 17 Hours Ago Has been a member for 1-2 years. Has a total post count of 36. Received thanks 8 times, giving thanks to others 4 times.
    Honestly your work astounds me, I always enjoy every night clicking through to see if you have updated any further work! I would love to purchase the part files or supply the material and pay you to make them if and when you may consider such!

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  13. #318
    Thanks Rob

    Definitely want to make sure everything works well before doing anything on the plans/files front. Might turn out as a bag of excrement!

    I've been busy re-working the X-Axis design to accommodate the larger Z-axis unit and to give me 420mm on travel in much the same footprint. If I had left it as is, I would have lost an unacceptable amount of travel due to the wider Z. To do this I moved the motor to the back plate and added a belt drive setup, which actually was another motivation for the re-design as it will make it much easier to accommodate an upgrade to servos further down the line if I decide I want to go that route. The old design is very much limited to nema 23 sized motors and it seems most servos come in at nema 24 as a minimum.

    I will need to extend the Main frame in width the accommodate this new design, but that should be relatively straight forward and just a case of getting some wider extrusions and doing some adjustments to the front plates.

    Still needs a little fleshing out but this is the current direction. Similar setup to the Z-axis really as that seems to have worked out nicely. For reference this is now using the extended HGH25HA carriages (I have the space now with the wider Z so why not) and longer HGR20 rails, both of which I already have in hand. Still using a 20mm tooling plate to mount the rails, which then attaches to a 200x40mm extrusion, in turn sandwiched by a 12mm rear plate.





    I still have an issue here though in that these pieces are too big for my current machine, so either I try to be clever and do them each in two separate operations moving them along the bed and dowel pins to relocate, or I just outsource the two big plates which is all I need get up and running, then cut the last plates when the machine is moving. Decisions decisions.

    In other news I've started accumulating equipment and doing more research on LCD anodising, which is most appealing to me given the apparent success of it in the DIY setting plus the relatively low concentration of sulphuric acid required. I want to do a proper job though so I'm going a bit beyond the typical DIY lead cathodes in a bucket with a car battery type deal, but that means more expense and complication so I'm trying to do my diligent research.

    I ordered this PSU which is capable of constant current (hoping to use it for other stuff too so thought might as well get a decentish one) here

    And I really wanted to achieve thorough agitation but without the splatter that enthusiastic aeration brings, so I also ordered two of these corrosion resistant magnetic drive pumps. here

    I intend to use both, with the 4L/min flow each I should see around 8L per minute which will cycle the bath (currently looking at about 60L) in a little under 8 minutes. They are going to pull double duty too as I will be building a couple of heat exchangers for them to pump the solution through in order to try to have some control over the temperature of the bath.

    Everyone seems to say about how having a serious amount of DI water is important for really thorough rinsing, so I also ordered a 6 stage Reverse osmosis system and will be adding a DI resin filter at the end to replace the re-mineralisation stage.

    Other than that from Caswell I ordered some Grey NLN and Red Bordeaux dye, plus some aluminium degreaser, aluminium oxide and smut remover, and some nickel acetate sealer.

    Still got some things left to buy when some spare cash rolls round before I can get cracking with the anodising, but excited to give it a go. Needless to say there will be a few test parts first before committing any important machined parts to the process.
    Last edited by Zeeflyboy; 11-06-2018 at 10:07 PM.

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