Thread: my build
That's quite impressive - I've tried that technique before (although only turning the ends of bolts), and I wasn't that successful.
Mind you, I was using an electric drill as a lathe held in one hand, and the other hand holding the grinder I was also not really after precision (just wanted a nice chamfer on the end - it wasn't very neat, but did its job).
i had the drill in a stand lying on its side and clamped to the bench, because the screw was held with bearings it was running true ... there was no whip in the screw
been busy with work.. but found the time to to make a carridge for the gantry... made a mdf one to start...far to much flex so got out the mig pretty pleased with this one very ridgid
Umm - forgive me if I'm being a bit dumb - but with a ruler/micrometer?
been looking on the net and find rack classed as mod 1
mod 2.5 etc etc all with different pitches , where do i measure from
the crown to crown of the tooth, because pitch line was talked about
that was a line about halfway up the tooth
I would've thought that as long as you measure from the same point in the rack, then that's okay.
When I was looking at racks, I looked at the mod sizes, and then looked for rack that was equivalent to that size.
What's the size you have?
pitch from crown to crown 11mm , width at top of tooth 12mm, what is mod 1, mod 2.5 refering to
I'm not exactly sure what the mod setting is, but I think it's the ratio of the number of teeth to the diameter of the wheel.
I know that generally mod 1.0 means for a 60mm wheel, you get 60 teeth; for a 120mm wheel, it's 120 teeth.
So, mod 1.0 would have 3.14mm pitch (circumference = pi*dia, dia = 60, so 188.49 circumference. Divide by 60 gives pi).
If it's 11mm, then it's probably 10.995, or mod 3.5 (3.5*pi = 10.995).
BUILD LOG: New Build - For Your Amusement - MK-2 buildBy Karl in forum DIY Router Build LogsReplies: 11Last Post: 11-06-2012, 07:34 PM