Crap chinese router problems

[charlieuk]

you can control the spindle from nc studio on the pc however as soon as your raise the spindle speed over 10000 that is when it cuts out, it strats back up as soon as you go back down.

I will take a look were the grey cable goes when I'm next at the machine.

If you could tell me what the values should be for each of the program setting that would be great! the setting the chap on cnc zone unfortunately did not help. the spindle is 220v 6A and we are on 240v mains power here in Australia.

many thanks

[JAZZCNC]

Can't help on the VFD front other than to say try find a proper manual or swap it out for decent one. Don't see any reason or advantage for using Modbus in DIY enviroment so I'd avoid this if possbile.

On the Rails and bed/steps then this sounds very much like the frame or gantry is twisted. It's affectively rotating the tool on it's axis as it moves along the twisted surface rails are mounted on.

[A_Camera]

Can't help on the VFD front other than to say try find a proper manual or swap it out for decent one.

I agree

Don't see any reason or advantage for using Modbus in DIY enviroment so I'd avoid this if possbile.

Why not? It has only advantages and no disadvantages. Of course, it requires some knowledge about it, but it isn't as simple as "avoid it if you are a DIY user". I think the biggest problem is when people try to do or use something they don't understand, in that case yes, 0-10V is easier because that can be measured and easily see how it is working. However, Modbus is not magic, very simple in fact.

But... many cheap VFDs don't have Modbus at all, just some fake serial protocol or implemented Modbus wrongly, like the HY. That's why it needs a plugin and can't be controlled via Mach3 brains or UCCNC Modbus plugin.

[JAZZCNC]

Why not? It has only advantages and no disadvantages.

Yes If you know how to speak Modbus and the Modbus is implemented correctly at both ends. I agree if more advanced speed control and monitoring is required then Modbus is great tool and not rocket science to learn. However The good old KISS method is all that's needed for simple speed control at DIY level so why complicate matters when not needed.?

[charlieuk]

It wouldn't surprise me if it is twisted as like some one said it is mostly cast, Its defiantly not something I would purchase and shows the need to have good reliable electronics. If it was mine it would be in bits already and replace a lot of it or start again but its not and I'm just trying to help as much as I can.

we have been in contact with the supplier however the only manual we can get for the inverter in in Chinese, were that English scanned copy came from I have no idea and I have spend a good few hours searching and emailing around.

We have had anouther problem come up also now with the z axis going straight up to the top and hitting the home/limit switch as soon as you start any file, even ones that we have run before and this problem happened over night between turning it off and restarting it the next day so think the vfd may be the least of our worries.

[JAZZCNC]

This is the down side to taking the Chinese route.. . . It's lottery, one with lot more losers than winners.!!! . . . . The mechanicals can be tweaked and sorted to some degree but the electronics are junk in which case best starting again if want complete peace of mind/reliabilty.

Like the Old saying "can't make silk purse out of sows Ear" so advise friend not to try. Bite the bullet and re-fit with decent electronics.

[A_Camera]

It wouldn't surprise me if it is twisted as like some one said it is mostly cast, Its defiantly not something I would purchase and shows the need to have good reliable electronics. If it was mine it would be in bits already and replace a lot of it or start again but its not and I'm just trying to help as much as I can.

we have been in contact with the supplier however the only manual we can get for the inverter in in Chinese, were that English scanned copy came from I have no idea and I have spend a good few hours searching and emailing around.

If I were you (or the owner) I would take my losses and go elsewhere. Buy a Hitachi or Bosch, Allen Bradley, Schneider Electric or some other REAL brand. You have wasted so much time on this that it is unbelievable. If I were the buyer of that crap I would have complained, and claimed my money back or some serious compensation. Sending a manual in Chinese is totally unacceptable and a very arrogant gesture, it means that the supplier/manufacturer is totally unreliable and is an idiot. A new VFD is not the end of the world, I paid less than £200 including delivery from UK to Sweden and after reading all the horror stories about cheap VFDs I certainly don't regret that decision and would do that again.

I am sorry that I can't help you out with Chinese, perhaps there are some forum members who can, though I think that the likelihood of finding one is higher on CNC Zone. Did you try Google translate? It may take time to produce something readable, but it may not be impossible.

We have had anouther problem come up also now with the z axis going straight up to the top and hitting the home/limit switch as soon as you start any file, even ones that we have run before and this problem happened over night between turning it off and restarting it the next day so think the vfd may be the least of our worries.

This sounds like a problem with the setup or the code. Did you try Mach3? There is a free version which runs 200 (or something like that) lines of code and is fully usable for such tests.

Does the problem only happens when you run code, or also when jogging? Can you jog up and down without problems? Is it just one particular code or any code? Is the machine set to use inches and maybe the code is for millimetres?

[charlieuk]

We were back at the machine last night, for some reasons as fast as the z axis problem came it has for now atleast gone away again. Still no real progress on the spindle but have managed to get in contact with a China man who is trying to find some info.

The grey cable in the vfd is just the cable to the second screen on the outside of the metal box.

The bed level thing still doesn't make sense to me, if it was twisted you would expect it to be out diagonally not even down the axis right? Not sure how well the pic shows it but it goes from smooth on the right to bumpy on the left but the bumps are even all the way down. Something is out but what.

[Boyan Silyavski]

Ok. The spindle and the VFD.

So you have GDZ or similar 230V Spindle 3 phase?? right capable of 24k rpm????? + 230V 2 phase VFD


You have just a couple of buttons connected. I can not see from here which is which so you have to trace them and program them again, after you finish programming the spindle.

Ok, step by step:

-PR133 1 restore factory settings

-PR000 4

-PR001 4 / dont forget later to check buttons if connected properly

-PR003 1 / you will never need reverse run

-PR008 1

-PR027 220

-PR29 400

-PR033 400 / that possibly is not set right at the moment

-PR038 400

-PR039 0 / so motor works from 0 to 24k rpm, obviously no much torque when less than 3k rpm/

-PR040 10 / 3-5 is also ok for that motor, but 10sec to be on the safe side/

-PR104 to PR111 - check if you buttons are properly programmed, / start stop etc. You don tneed reverse, so use it for sth else/


So thats it. It should work ok now.

[charlieuk]

cheers many thanks will try that next time I am up there!. the only things buttons on the box are a power switch, kill button and a second vfd panel.

many thanks