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  1. #31
    Ok I'll get a photo, thanks for your help

  2. #32
    Good morning, here is a photo of the underside of my bob;
    Kev
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #33
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 10 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,908. Received thanks 360 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    So if the 24V LED is lighting up, and you've got no voltage at the top left pin on the opto's, then looking at that, the fault can only be the throughhole/via.

    If you connect 24V to the board, looking at the front of the board, follow the track from the 24V LED to the via at the T-junction in the track. You should get 24V there?
    If you do, then flip the board over and see if you still get 24V on the opposite side of the via.
    If you do, then follow the track up and check to see if you get 24V at the optos.

    If it is a faulty via, applying pressure when you probe could be enough to re-connect it. If that is the problem, the easy option is to put a little bit wire through it (drill it out slightly if needed), and solder it on both sides, and that should reconnect both sides of the PCB.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  4. #34
    WOW i have no idea what you've just said !
    This is a bit out of my depth, what's the via. if I was to send you the board could you repair it ? all costs paid by me

  5. #35
    Hi Kev

    using the photo's from post 3 and post 32

    I have traced part of the supply circuit powering the opto-isolators

    Click image for larger version. 

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    the track from the opto-isolators starts of on the underside of the board
    then near to the 24V LED passes through a "via" (a plated through hole)and

    then another "via" next to the missing B axis connector

    the track ends at the + connector of the capacitor next to the LM317 regulator
    the photo is not clear enough but I expect the capacitor + terminal is connected to the metal tab on the LM317 which is connected to the regulator output

    the 1800 ohm and two 300 ohm resistors set the LM317 output to 10V

    looking closer at the LM2576 switching regulator it has -5.0 at the end of its part number indicating its the 5V version
    ( LM2576S-5.0 = 5v ouput )

    if a Via is open circuit the copper pads can be cleaned and a copper wire passed through and soldered to remak the connection

    since the "24V LED" lights the only Via to check is lext to the LED

    John

    PS

    check there is continuity from the limit switches 5 pin connector common terminal and the DC power in negative
    Last edited by john swift; 27-03-2017 at 12:53 PM. Reason: add PS

  6. #36
    so if i do both through holes you've pointed out with the wire do you think that would solve the problem ?

  7. #37
    There is continuity from the capacitor to the optos, but not from the 10v input to the gnd on the home switch socket

  8. #38
    Hi Kev
    you have done some of the tests I had on this diagram

    Click image for larger version. 

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    you may have an open circuit limit switch common

    Click image for larger version. 

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    John
    Last edited by john swift; 27-03-2017 at 03:15 PM. Reason: add second diagram

  9. #39
    The voltage on the 1st of your 2 photo's each read 10v. (9.9v actual ) the first photo has got continuity
    Kev

  10. #40
    Hi Kev

    if this is what you have measured

    Click image for larger version. 

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    then I would have expected mach3 to see the limit switches operating

    provided mach3 is set up correctly and the printer port is working

    the test results for this should prove the breakout board is working

    Click image for larger version. 

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    John

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