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  1. Quote Originally Posted by charlieuk View Post
    do you mind explaining why not?

    this is what I had in mind, could easily add extra cooling around it and then would print some cover with mesh in to prevent crap going in.
    Ok that looks fine if you can wiggle the motor in there I would think you will have to mill out the steel plate so that the motor would be inlet into it because the motor shafts are generally not long enough for the pulley.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  2. #52
    yes I have that recess drawn in there it should be fine getting it in and then will just tap the holes on the motor



    like I mentioned I'm a bit worried about getting the bk blocks all lined up so thinking maybe make some plates up like in the pic just to allow 1.5mm ether way incase the holes are not perfect. but now just thinking maybe I would be better making a bracket from angle ali and using a fk support instead?
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    Last edited by charlieuk; 25-05-2017 at 09:30 AM.

  3. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by charlieuk View Post
    . . . like I mentioned I'm a bit worried about getting the bk blocks all lined up so thinking maybe make some plates up like in the pic just to allow 1.5mm ether way incase the holes are not perfect. but now just thinking maybe I would be better making a bracket from angle ali and using a fk support instead?
    If you want to go the route you have drawn then you can make the mounting plate into a tramming plate. Add a cup-point grub screw to each corner which contacts the RHS underneath and allows fine tuning in/out and various angles. When aligned the bolts are tightened down holding the plate in this position. Be aware you are relying on the stiffness of the cup point area contact with the RHS to give the stiffness of the axis as seen by the machine, but if this worries you once it is set up you can remove the plate, cover the underside with machine epoxy and tighten back down. It will set with the alignment position you dialled in using the grub screws.

    See here post #23. Grub screws around edge of bracket give alignment, then main bolts tighten against them:
    http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/9141-...gestions/page2
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  4. yes I have that recess drawn in there it should be fine getting it in and then will just tap the holes on the motor
    I see the recess from the outside but it is usual to recess from the inside so that the motor sticks out more.

    Are you sure the the motor and shaft with the pulley on will stick out enough?
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  5. #55
    thanks for spotting that i realised i hadn't modified the front for the motor to slide the rear is like this. I have left 5mm thickness. I like the idea of using grubs I was going to do something similar for the gantry but sounds like a good idea to do it all round and then like you say just bed everything with epoxy after that way you don't have to do all that sell leveling resin stuff. :)

    I keep hearing dean say adjustment adjustment adjustment which I think is exactly right for diy stuff

    all fixed will see if I can find some pullies to put on there but its the same as what I did on my other machine essentially so should be fine.
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    Last edited by charlieuk; 25-05-2017 at 04:26 PM.

  6. #56
    so thinking this for the screw support instead, at the moment I have the bracket at 15mm alli, not sure if that's ok or if it would need to be bigger, tbh I haven't looked to see what section is even available.Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by charlieuk; 26-05-2017 at 09:18 AM.

  7. I have left 5mm thickness.
    Personally I would cut that down to 3 mm to get the motor shaft sticking out more.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  8. #58
    found some pulllys on line so had a play 5mm is just doable, going down to 4 would be plenty so will do that. even at 5 mm the pullly would go all the way on its just a bit harder to do the grub screw up.

    hmm now on to the y and z not looking forward to trying to draw this!
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    Last edited by charlieuk; 26-05-2017 at 06:28 PM.

  9. #59
    so just kinda throwing something together if anyone has any thoughts let me know I'm not really to sure what I'm doing.
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  10. #60
    getting a bit obsed with trying to get this designed and built asap so was up until 2am last night searching the forum and looking for ideas, I keep ending up looking at zeeflyboys thread and drawings as it looks so nice.

    I'm still trying to rough out the design and get a feel for what I'm doing



    what I'm wondering at the moment is how fare do the hiwin carriages need to be spaced apart, what's a acceptable distance?





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