Thread: DIY Pin Badge

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  1. #11
    Wal I love these too. Well done again and thanks for Sharing.



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  2. #12
    Wal, these are very nice and inspiring. What is it you fill them with and how deep are you milling them?

  3. #13
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 1 Week Ago Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 292. Received thanks 27 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    Hi,

    I use cold enamel - like this:

    http://brightenamels.co.uk/documents...e%20(2016).pdf

    It's good stuff, but can be tricky to mix in small quantities, ie. 0.1gm colour + 1.9gm resin +1gm hardener. Too much/too little of one or the other and it doesn't set properly..!

    If I'm using >0.8mm cutters I'll cut to a depth of 0.75mm, anything under that I'll keep to around 0.5mm - in both cases it's probably too deep, but I get paranoid about belt sanding through the epoxy..!

    Wal.

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  5. #14
    Did you check the job request for aluminum badge?
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  6. #15
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 1 Week Ago Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 292. Received thanks 27 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    Boyan - yep, I followed up on that but the job went no further (with me).

    Okay, last of the badge posts - as no doubt you get the idea. This one was made as a commission - a birthday present, I think... Two nicknames, two badges that can be worn or displayed together in a plinth. Smallest cuts here were with a 0.2mm - I could have got away with a 0.3mm, but the two I had both broke on the job and I had to re-program using the 0.2mm (which also eventually broke). Heh, I can see why people don't do these for a living - once you've taken materials/tools etc. into account, along with what this kind of job is 'worth' to the buyer, well, you're looking at less than minimum wage for this... but I guess as long as you're making on other work it's still enjoyable to do - trouble is you need to give 'em away at the end..!

    Has anyone got any tips for micro-diameter end-mills - I tend to cut slow and shallow, but am I better off going slower and cutting deeper, or do the same rules not apply at this scale..? I avoid using air with the small stuff and have found that covering the plate and then the channels being cut with WD40 tends to work better - sure, you'll need to remove the build up of tiny chips every once in a while, but they're so small they tend to float about and get pushed out of the way by the cutter. Here's a vid cutting the intermediate details with a 0.8mm cutter:



    Anyway, some pics - check out how the thin bit at the bottom of the second 'b' has survived - I didn't think it would make it past the 'clean-up with the old toothbrush' stage, but somehow it did... pretty cool.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    BTW, the best method for getting rid of air bubbles in the epoxy at this scale is, hands down, no bull, a waft of a blow-torch over the surface as was suggested on a previous post here. I didn't realise it would be so effective - they disappear instantly..!

    Wal.

  7. #16
    Awesome .


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