New build with recycled parts on a ridiculous budget 120cm*60cm work area

[Clive S]

For the avoidance of doubt I use AM882's on the router, they are programmable with the RJ11 socket on the end.

You can make a lead up from an old phone then chop the end off and fit a D9 plug on using just 3 wires. Then use a USB to D9 adaptor to connect the RJ11 lead to the PC.

[phill05]

Short answer - no!

I do this with the EM806 on my machine and it works fine.

Sorry to jump in on this thread Neale would the wires from the EM806's go to the E stop on the BOB?

[Desertboy]

Sorry to jump in on this thread Neale would the wires from the EM806's go to the E stop on the BOB?

That's how I have it setup the black cables are the stall protection


Powered on today ;) can't test it because I took the Z axis plate off and it's still with engineering firm although ready to collect Monday.

[Nr1madman]

Its getting close now :D

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[Nickhofen]

Carry on,you are close now!

[Neale]

Sorry to jump in on this thread Neale would the wires from the EM806's go to the E stop on the BOB?

May sound daft but actually, I don't know! I use a CSMIO-IP/M, partly because it includes BOB-style functionality (i.e. it provides plenty of input and output connections, and doesn't need a separate BOB). One of these inputs can be defined as something like "servo fault", and the hardware is set up to stop all motion immediately if this signal occurs. That means that Mach3 doesn't get involved directly, so I haven't had to define an input in Mach3 for it. I'm sure that someone out there knows the answer as this is a very common setup, it's just not the particular one I use. This is also why it was very easy for me to use the factory-default "NO" rather than "NC" on the drivers.

If you reconfigure the 882/806 using the software configuration tool so that the fault outputs are now "NC", then you should be able to wire them in series with the e-stop switches and take them to the e-stop input on your BOB. However, I haven't tried this myself, although it's what I would investigate doing if I were in your position.

[m_c]

Sorry to jump in on this thread Neale would the wires from the EM806's go to the E stop on the BOB?

It depends on your controller.
If you configure them NC, and your e-stop kills power to the drives, then you need someway to override the fault outputs in order to activate the e-stop relay, so the drives can power up, and activate the fault outputs to complete the e-stop loop, at which point the override can be disabled. If you run them NO, then to have them as part of the e-stop loop, you'd need to use the outputs to control a NC relay, so when the output activates, it powers the relay and breaks the E-stop circuit.

I'm aware the CS units have some kind of fault input, which although not part of the e-stop circuit, will disable things in the event of a fault being triggered, and is capable of ignoring the fault signal during reset, so things can be reset/powered up without having to override the fault signal.

Me personally, as I'm using a KFlop, I just have the fault outputs going to standard inputs. I've programmed the KFlop to continually monitor those inputs, and in the event of a fault, the KFlop disables everything, halts the software, and displays a message to tell me why everything has just ground to a halt.

I know some people just rely on Mach to handle faults, however I personally would never rely on Mach to handle critical faults.

[Desertboy]

I was going to to wire the stall protection to the estop on the BOB. Then I'll wire the physical estops to a contactor and the PSU and spindle to the contactor.

Originally was going to use a latched relay but I think a contactor will do as all my estops will be the twist to release type.

Not got my Stop's yet they're still on a conveyor belt but after xmas it's being scrapped and I'm having all 4 stops off the machine ;)

They have NO and NC contacts on all of them.

[Desertboy]

I need to work hardwoods with the machine, Predominately Oak, Walnut and Mahogany. I'm hoping it's strong enough.

I am planning to swap the gantry over to shortest span (Unless I have 0 issues with flex in which case I will keep it this way as it makes loading the router easier.). Originally I was going to have SBR25 on the bottom which is why I made the gantry the longest span with the hiwin's but since that has changed to Hiwin's all round I need to buy another ballscrew 1400mmm to swap it over.

I thought though it'd be best to use it for a bit to decide if when I do buy a new ballscrew if I should just change all 3 ballscrews to 1610's instead and upgrade the 2nm nema's to 3nm ones at the same time.

I've also been toying with when I swap the gantry over buying another set of 1500mm 15mm clone hiwins and having 2 rails per side on the bottom axis. Then making new plates all round and increasing the Z travel to 35cm! This would mean some serious rebuilding which I wonder if it's worth it at some point in makes more sense to build a new steel framed router then upgrade the old aluminium one.

[Nr1madman]

Hahaha :D

Just try your first one before building a new.
Find the "weak" spots and plan a solution or upgrade..
Might be that you are satisfied with the one you got? ;)

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